The majesty of stone
May 7, 2018 8:12 AM Subscribe
I'm aiming to set up a 4-5 day vacation over Labor Day to check out the Grand Canyon as well as Antelope Canyon for that wild sandstone natural architecture. Caveat - I've never been anywhere near those places before, and know zilch about canyon hiking in the region or what else there is to do out there. Suggestions?
Specifically, I'd like to hit up the North Rim and Walhalla Overlook of the GC, and the Upper + Lower Antelope Canyon runs. Ideas I've formulated already include:
-Likely staying in Page, AZ. Any suggestions there, or are there more interesting places to set up as a central base? Not terribly interested in camping specifically. Would it make more sense to do Antelope from Page, and then get another closer place to stay near the GC for the back half of the trip?
-What are the best tour groups to check out for those two canyons? We will be utter canyon nubs, and not planning on going it alone and getting all 127 Hours.
-What should we plan on bringing along those tours? Water obvs, but how much? Definitely good hiking shoes - full backpack? 10' pole and 50' of rope?
-Are there any other specific locations that we'd be fools to miss visiting while we're out there? Spectacular sandstone canyons, great places to eat, unusual sites to see in general?
-Is seeing both of these locations in the space of 4-5 days overly ambitious? Obviously we're not going to explore the entire region, but is either one of those destinations a four day trip on it's own?
Specifically, I'd like to hit up the North Rim and Walhalla Overlook of the GC, and the Upper + Lower Antelope Canyon runs. Ideas I've formulated already include:
-Likely staying in Page, AZ. Any suggestions there, or are there more interesting places to set up as a central base? Not terribly interested in camping specifically. Would it make more sense to do Antelope from Page, and then get another closer place to stay near the GC for the back half of the trip?
-What are the best tour groups to check out for those two canyons? We will be utter canyon nubs, and not planning on going it alone and getting all 127 Hours.
-What should we plan on bringing along those tours? Water obvs, but how much? Definitely good hiking shoes - full backpack? 10' pole and 50' of rope?
-Are there any other specific locations that we'd be fools to miss visiting while we're out there? Spectacular sandstone canyons, great places to eat, unusual sites to see in general?
-Is seeing both of these locations in the space of 4-5 days overly ambitious? Obviously we're not going to explore the entire region, but is either one of those destinations a four day trip on it's own?
If you want to get down into the Grand Canyon even a little bit, and are not an experienced hiker of canyons, prepare to embark by 5:00 am, plan for 2.5-3 hours up for every hour down, carrying 1.5 liters of water per person per hour.
It’s amazing, but do not pin your hopes on getting far unless you really want to push yourself and are in otherwise good shape/endurance/heat tolerance.
posted by SaltySalticid at 8:35 AM on May 7, 2018 [3 favorites]
It’s amazing, but do not pin your hopes on getting far unless you really want to push yourself and are in otherwise good shape/endurance/heat tolerance.
posted by SaltySalticid at 8:35 AM on May 7, 2018 [3 favorites]
It is going to be HOT in that area in early September. Probably high 80s/low 90s. The North Rim will probably be a little bit cooler because it's at a higher elevation, but if you're going down into the canyon, temperatures will climb (and remember, you have to come back out of the canyon, and that will be hard). On preview, SaltySalticid has already given some good advice there.
Be prepared to cancel any slot canyon plans if there's rain within 100 miles or so -- flash floods are real, and you should not mess with them.
If it were me, I would plan on spending a day or two in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness in between Antelope Canyon and the GC. Try your luck at The Wave lottery the first morning, do a day hike into Buckskin Gulch the first day, then do the Wave the next day if you were lucky enought to get a permit (if not, head to the GC). The Wave is on my bucket list, but incredibly hard to get permits for, and Buckskin Gulch is one of the most stunning, alien places I've ever seen (you will also need a permit for that). You may need to camp in the area -- I don't think there's much in the way of other accommodations there.
As far as equipment goes, you won't need rope or 50' poles (and if you do, you're in over your heads and you should turn around). If you're going down into the GC, or hitting any slots that involve wading (Buckskin, for one), I strongly suggest a pair of trekking poles for each of you, and a couple of practice hikes with them before your trip. They're great to steady yourself in water, especially when you can't see your feet, and they will absolutely save your knees on any downhills. If you're doing anything with water, get a pair of water shoes with good traction and drainage (something like the Keens that are more hiking shoe than sandal).
posted by natabat at 9:31 AM on May 7, 2018
Be prepared to cancel any slot canyon plans if there's rain within 100 miles or so -- flash floods are real, and you should not mess with them.
If it were me, I would plan on spending a day or two in the Paria Canyon-Vermilion Cliffs Wilderness in between Antelope Canyon and the GC. Try your luck at The Wave lottery the first morning, do a day hike into Buckskin Gulch the first day, then do the Wave the next day if you were lucky enought to get a permit (if not, head to the GC). The Wave is on my bucket list, but incredibly hard to get permits for, and Buckskin Gulch is one of the most stunning, alien places I've ever seen (you will also need a permit for that). You may need to camp in the area -- I don't think there's much in the way of other accommodations there.
As far as equipment goes, you won't need rope or 50' poles (and if you do, you're in over your heads and you should turn around). If you're going down into the GC, or hitting any slots that involve wading (Buckskin, for one), I strongly suggest a pair of trekking poles for each of you, and a couple of practice hikes with them before your trip. They're great to steady yourself in water, especially when you can't see your feet, and they will absolutely save your knees on any downhills. If you're doing anything with water, get a pair of water shoes with good traction and drainage (something like the Keens that are more hiking shoe than sandal).
posted by natabat at 9:31 AM on May 7, 2018
We did Ken's Tours, which was fine but it's kind of luck of the draw which tour guide you get -- some are more helpful with history and geology, some better at taking cool pictures with your phone. Just bring lots of water, sunscreen, and a hat (the hike in is unsheltered). They'll have rope ladders in case of flash floods, and they monitor the weather.
I hear the Lake Powell boat tours are cool, and the drive into the marina area has some good views.
In August I'd keep a couple gallons of water in the car, too. The drive along the east rim is pretty neat, and you'll see lots of windswept sandstone.
posted by RobotVoodooPower at 9:33 AM on May 7, 2018 [1 favorite]
I hear the Lake Powell boat tours are cool, and the drive into the marina area has some good views.
In August I'd keep a couple gallons of water in the car, too. The drive along the east rim is pretty neat, and you'll see lots of windswept sandstone.
posted by RobotVoodooPower at 9:33 AM on May 7, 2018 [1 favorite]
We used Horseshoe Bend Slot Canyon Tours. It is not the crowded canyon that most people do visit. We had lots of time in the slots, beautiful area and less visited then the mainstream tours. If your timing works, catch a sunset at the canyon, it is magical.
There are many new hotels in Page, most are reasonably priced. We chose the Best Western, super clean and free breakfast.
posted by jennstra at 9:44 AM on May 7, 2018
There are many new hotels in Page, most are reasonably priced. We chose the Best Western, super clean and free breakfast.
posted by jennstra at 9:44 AM on May 7, 2018
Seeing both of those in 4-5 days isn't over-ambitious. You would be amazed at what I've seen some people think they can fit into that amount of time.
As other answers above have covered, you need to take a guided tour to do Antelope Canyon. However, if you're willing to spend a day paddling, there are kayak tours of the other side of Antelope Canyon on the water! You can either join a tour group (recommended if you don't have paddling experience) or you can rent a kayak and do it yourself. No permits are required for the water side, but you'll need to pay the $30 to enter Glen Canyon NRA.
I'll stop here and mention that you want to go ahead and spend the $80 for the national parks pass. You'll run up at least $65 worth ($30 at Glen Canyon, $35 at Grand Canyon) on this trip and it's good for an entire year. You can enter any National Park Service unit that charges admission with this pass.
Another water option is to do the Colorado River from Glen Canyon Dam to Lee's Ferry. This isn't a whitewater trip at all, but it's beautiful. You can either do one of the rafting trips offered, or you can rent a kayak or canoe and pay for backhaul service. If you do that, you can camp at one of several sites along the river. It's about 15 miles, and you can paddle it in a single day if you like, since the Colorado's current will help you along.
For Grand Canyon, if you want to do the North Rim, see if you can get a room at Kaibab Lodge or Jacob Lake Lodge for a night (or the lodge in the park, but that books up the fastest.) The North Rim is a 2-plus hour drive each way from Page. If you can get a room up that way, you'll have some time in the cool pines and more time to explore the park. To hike from North Rim, your main option is North Kaibab Trail unless you're willing to drive a lot of dirt road to remote areas. You can go to Supai Tunnel or Coconino Overlook for a short hike. Don't go any farther unless you're a strong hiker. Take water, salty snacks, a wide brim hat, and sunscreen. Also invest in some merino wool socks to help prevent blisters. If you decided to do the South Rim as well, it's about the same drive time from Page. The central village area gets crowded but the east rim overlooks aren't bad.
One more option is to go to Kanab. It's 70 miles from Page and it's in beautiful red rock country. There are several hiking spots around there including slot canyons. It is close to Zion, although be aware that Zion is getting absolutely overrun with tourists, especially in high season like Labor Day.
posted by azpenguin at 10:24 AM on May 7, 2018
As other answers above have covered, you need to take a guided tour to do Antelope Canyon. However, if you're willing to spend a day paddling, there are kayak tours of the other side of Antelope Canyon on the water! You can either join a tour group (recommended if you don't have paddling experience) or you can rent a kayak and do it yourself. No permits are required for the water side, but you'll need to pay the $30 to enter Glen Canyon NRA.
I'll stop here and mention that you want to go ahead and spend the $80 for the national parks pass. You'll run up at least $65 worth ($30 at Glen Canyon, $35 at Grand Canyon) on this trip and it's good for an entire year. You can enter any National Park Service unit that charges admission with this pass.
Another water option is to do the Colorado River from Glen Canyon Dam to Lee's Ferry. This isn't a whitewater trip at all, but it's beautiful. You can either do one of the rafting trips offered, or you can rent a kayak or canoe and pay for backhaul service. If you do that, you can camp at one of several sites along the river. It's about 15 miles, and you can paddle it in a single day if you like, since the Colorado's current will help you along.
For Grand Canyon, if you want to do the North Rim, see if you can get a room at Kaibab Lodge or Jacob Lake Lodge for a night (or the lodge in the park, but that books up the fastest.) The North Rim is a 2-plus hour drive each way from Page. If you can get a room up that way, you'll have some time in the cool pines and more time to explore the park. To hike from North Rim, your main option is North Kaibab Trail unless you're willing to drive a lot of dirt road to remote areas. You can go to Supai Tunnel or Coconino Overlook for a short hike. Don't go any farther unless you're a strong hiker. Take water, salty snacks, a wide brim hat, and sunscreen. Also invest in some merino wool socks to help prevent blisters. If you decided to do the South Rim as well, it's about the same drive time from Page. The central village area gets crowded but the east rim overlooks aren't bad.
One more option is to go to Kanab. It's 70 miles from Page and it's in beautiful red rock country. There are several hiking spots around there including slot canyons. It is close to Zion, although be aware that Zion is getting absolutely overrun with tourists, especially in high season like Labor Day.
posted by azpenguin at 10:24 AM on May 7, 2018
If you can manage to reserve a night or two at Grand Canyon Lodge (on the North Rim) you will be able to get a much earlier start on any hikes or sightseeing. Otherwise you've got a three-plus hour drive between your lodging in Page and the views you want to see. The long drive would also mean any hiking you do is at midday, which is the worst time to be out in that sun, and you'd probably also end up driving back to your hotel in the dark, which is not very fun.
You can do a bunch of stuff at rim level: Point Imperial is one way, Cape Royal (with Angels Window, Wotans Throne, and Vishnu Temple) is the other way, and the Bright Angel Trail leads from the grounds of the Lodge out towards the middle of the Canyon. You can see all those things in one day if you start early enough.
If you want to hike into the Canyon at all on the North Kaibab Trail, starting early is extremely helpful, which makes staying in the Lodge a whole lot more valuable. NB: you only have to go as far as Coconino Overlook for one of the better views.
You probably don't need a guide at the North Rim. The roads are paved, there's parking at the overlooks and trailheads, and the entrance to the North Kaibab Trail is well marked (and your choices on the trail are either down or up). Just remember, however far down you go, expect the trip back up to take twice as long. I made it to the Supai Tunnel in 1:40 and the trip back up took me 2:20 of hiking, not counting a half hour break to eat lunch and let my heart rate come back down once I got back up to Coconino Overlook. Counting that break it was just shy of three hours on the way back up.
posted by fedward at 10:36 AM on May 7, 2018
You can do a bunch of stuff at rim level: Point Imperial is one way, Cape Royal (with Angels Window, Wotans Throne, and Vishnu Temple) is the other way, and the Bright Angel Trail leads from the grounds of the Lodge out towards the middle of the Canyon. You can see all those things in one day if you start early enough.
If you want to hike into the Canyon at all on the North Kaibab Trail, starting early is extremely helpful, which makes staying in the Lodge a whole lot more valuable. NB: you only have to go as far as Coconino Overlook for one of the better views.
You probably don't need a guide at the North Rim. The roads are paved, there's parking at the overlooks and trailheads, and the entrance to the North Kaibab Trail is well marked (and your choices on the trail are either down or up). Just remember, however far down you go, expect the trip back up to take twice as long. I made it to the Supai Tunnel in 1:40 and the trip back up took me 2:20 of hiking, not counting a half hour break to eat lunch and let my heart rate come back down once I got back up to Coconino Overlook. Counting that break it was just shy of three hours on the way back up.
posted by fedward at 10:36 AM on May 7, 2018
It is very tempting to want to hike down to the river. Probably not worth it. Be aware that the hard work will be hiking out again. In addition, your muscles will be stressed by the descent, as you catch your weight on each step. Hike in with maximum water and minimum other items.
It is a beautiful area. Allow more time than you think you will need to, to get there and enjoy things. There are good places to view the canyon, other than those that are highly popular.
Condition your legs for the descent, as well as the climb. I suggest stair cases. Have a great time!
posted by Midnight Skulker at 10:44 AM on May 7, 2018
It is a beautiful area. Allow more time than you think you will need to, to get there and enjoy things. There are good places to view the canyon, other than those that are highly popular.
Condition your legs for the descent, as well as the climb. I suggest stair cases. Have a great time!
posted by Midnight Skulker at 10:44 AM on May 7, 2018
Keep in mind the that the upper and lower Antelope Canyon experiences are very different. You can essentially drive up to the lower canyon, and you have to take stairs down into and back out of the canyon.
For the upper canyon, you meet in Page and ride in the back of a four wheel drive vehicle. The upper canyon floor is flat, sandy, relatively short and extremely (overly) crowded.
The best time to be inside either the upper or lower canyon is at solar noon, when the sun is directly over the top of the canyon. This is about 12:30 PM in September. They're amazing places and are worth the trip!
Note that Antelope Canyon is probably too dark to get a decent picture with many cell phones. You at minimum need optical image stabilization (OIS) with your phone. Even better is OIS with a real camera. Even better than that is a camera with a tripod. (Note that you probably have to take a photographer tour, which is more money, to use a tripod.)
Definitely pay attention to local weather. Labor day is toward the end of monsoon season, and you don't want to be in a slot canyon when there's heavy rain anywhere nearby.
As others have noted, the tours are a bit of a crapshoot. I've done a couple, and I couldn't tell you if they were the same company or not, but they were both fine. I don't think you need to bring much, other than your camera and water. You absolutely should go to Horseshoe Bend. It's right on the edge of Page, AZ the hike is maybe 20 flattish minutes, and looking (carefully!) over the edge is amazing. Bring more water than you think you need. I've stayed at the Days Inn in Page, and it was totally fine (and nice and cool!).
I think you should extend your trip to 6-7 days and see Zion National Park while you're there. It's only a couple hours away and is a completely different (and spectacular!) experience than Antelope Canyon or the Grand Canyon. (And Bryce Canyon isn't far either).
North Rim to the river in Grand Canyon is almost 6,000 feet of elevation change. It's probably harder as a day hike than running a marathon.
posted by cnc at 1:47 PM on May 7, 2018
For the upper canyon, you meet in Page and ride in the back of a four wheel drive vehicle. The upper canyon floor is flat, sandy, relatively short and extremely (overly) crowded.
The best time to be inside either the upper or lower canyon is at solar noon, when the sun is directly over the top of the canyon. This is about 12:30 PM in September. They're amazing places and are worth the trip!
Note that Antelope Canyon is probably too dark to get a decent picture with many cell phones. You at minimum need optical image stabilization (OIS) with your phone. Even better is OIS with a real camera. Even better than that is a camera with a tripod. (Note that you probably have to take a photographer tour, which is more money, to use a tripod.)
Definitely pay attention to local weather. Labor day is toward the end of monsoon season, and you don't want to be in a slot canyon when there's heavy rain anywhere nearby.
As others have noted, the tours are a bit of a crapshoot. I've done a couple, and I couldn't tell you if they were the same company or not, but they were both fine. I don't think you need to bring much, other than your camera and water. You absolutely should go to Horseshoe Bend. It's right on the edge of Page, AZ the hike is maybe 20 flattish minutes, and looking (carefully!) over the edge is amazing. Bring more water than you think you need. I've stayed at the Days Inn in Page, and it was totally fine (and nice and cool!).
I think you should extend your trip to 6-7 days and see Zion National Park while you're there. It's only a couple hours away and is a completely different (and spectacular!) experience than Antelope Canyon or the Grand Canyon. (And Bryce Canyon isn't far either).
North Rim to the river in Grand Canyon is almost 6,000 feet of elevation change. It's probably harder as a day hike than running a marathon.
posted by cnc at 1:47 PM on May 7, 2018
One point of clarification - though the walk to Horseshoe Bend isn't far, the sand is extremely soft, so it's more tiring than you would think. Again, it's 20 minutes or so one way.
posted by cnc at 1:55 PM on May 7, 2018
posted by cnc at 1:55 PM on May 7, 2018
Response by poster: Great recommendations everyone, thanks for the tips on additional spots to see! I agree that hiking to the bottom of the GC is likely a bit outside our scope this time around, but anything that's within an hour or two of walking range is definitely fair game.
posted by FatherDagon at 10:56 AM on May 8, 2018
posted by FatherDagon at 10:56 AM on May 8, 2018
If you decide to go to the South Rim, try to get a reservation at one of the lodges right on the rim -- Bright Angel, Thunderbird, El Tovar, or Kachina. You are less than 100 feet from the rim and right on the Rim Trail. If you set your alarm and get up at dawn, you will have the entire trail to yourselves for a several hours. It is quite peaceful. Around 10 AM the tour buses start showing up and hoards of tourists crowd the trail.
posted by JackFlash at 1:08 PM on May 8, 2018
posted by JackFlash at 1:08 PM on May 8, 2018
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You actually can't tour the canyon on your own as it's on native land, you have to use a guide. I'm sure there are similar canyons around that you could explore though.
We only did one of the canyons and it was about 1/4 mile walk on flat ground. My (at the time) 80 year-old mother had no trouble with it at all. It's easy hiking. Bring water and a camera. That's really all you need for Antelope.
The drive out to the canyon is bumpy. You'll be in the back of a 4x4 truck.
You'll really only need a few hours to do the canyon. You could plan 1/2 a day there and maybe hike into Horseshoe Bend the other half of the day.
I think 4-5 days is plenty for both, unless you're looking to do a long hike into the Grand Canyon.
I would stay in Page to do Antelope, and then spend the remaining time closer to the GC.
posted by bondcliff at 8:29 AM on May 7, 2018