What should we do on our August trip to Anchorage & Denali?
January 14, 2018 9:23 AM Subscribe
We're planning a family trip to Alaska (mostly Anchorage and Denali) in late August. Our party includes my parents (in their early 70s) and a few other folks. No kids. Please recommend places we should see and things we should do!
We have about a week in Alaska. So far, we are planning on flying into Anchorage and venturing out from there. We want to do a few day trips and also spend 3-ish days to go up to Denali, hang out for a bit, and come back.
For the day trips, we are thinking of doing either a boat trip into Prince William Sound or a 6-hour or 9-hour cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park, or maybe both.
For Denali, we're thinking we might spend the night in Talkeetna on the way up or back, and use either park service transit or shuttle bus service in Denali to go on small hikes.
Is this a good plan? What else can you recommend? General advice on visiting Alaska also welcome.
Specific questions:
- For our day trips, do you have recommendations for particular places we should see? Recommendations for particular cruises or companies?
- What else should we definitely see, assuming we are flying into and out of Anchorage?
- What other cool stuff should we do?
Things we like: looking at beautiful things outdoors, light hiking (like ~1-3 hour hikes/walks that are not at all strenuous), cool cultural things, seeing glaciers and animals.
Things we are not really up for: strenuous hiking, adventure sports, flying in small planes, fancy cruise stuff. We are fine with getting on a boat for a day trip, since I gather that's how you see all the cool glaciers and wildlife. We do not want to do the multiple-day fancy cruise experience.
Thank you, Mefites!
We have about a week in Alaska. So far, we are planning on flying into Anchorage and venturing out from there. We want to do a few day trips and also spend 3-ish days to go up to Denali, hang out for a bit, and come back.
For the day trips, we are thinking of doing either a boat trip into Prince William Sound or a 6-hour or 9-hour cruise into Kenai Fjords National Park, or maybe both.
For Denali, we're thinking we might spend the night in Talkeetna on the way up or back, and use either park service transit or shuttle bus service in Denali to go on small hikes.
Is this a good plan? What else can you recommend? General advice on visiting Alaska also welcome.
Specific questions:
- For our day trips, do you have recommendations for particular places we should see? Recommendations for particular cruises or companies?
- What else should we definitely see, assuming we are flying into and out of Anchorage?
- What other cool stuff should we do?
Things we like: looking at beautiful things outdoors, light hiking (like ~1-3 hour hikes/walks that are not at all strenuous), cool cultural things, seeing glaciers and animals.
Things we are not really up for: strenuous hiking, adventure sports, flying in small planes, fancy cruise stuff. We are fine with getting on a boat for a day trip, since I gather that's how you see all the cool glaciers and wildlife. We do not want to do the multiple-day fancy cruise experience.
Thank you, Mefites!
Best answer: Oh, hi, I was there last August.
The Anchorage Museum is totally worth your time! They have an incredible collection of Native Alaskan items that are well-presented, plus interested revolving exhibits. You could spend most of a day there and then get lunch in downtown. There are a lot of nice places plus a mall down the street.
The Anchorage Botanical Garden is just the right mix of gorgeous formal gardens and wild native flora. It's totally non-strenuous and a pleasant hike.
If you can drive a couple hours out of your way, Matanuska Glacier is totally worth it. It's the least strenuous glacier-- you can walk around on it in sneakers, though you need ice cleats to get really far out on it. You basically drive through a gift shop and sign some papers and pay $20 for access, then drive to the edge of the glacier, park, and walk around on it. There is a hill at the beginning to get down to the glacier and the serious ice and height requires some hill climbing, but you can have a good time on the flatter parts and take some amazing photos.
The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is about an hour's drive from Anchorage and is also totally worth it. You can see native Alaskan animals just doing their thing, including bears and moose and lynx and bald eagles and wolves up close, all of whom are part of some conservation or rescue operation (many of them were rescued from poachers or fires or something so the center is their best life. You can park and walk around, or there are bus tours that come in and you can opt to ride the haywagon or walk around on relatively flat (gravel, dirt) ground.
Downtown Anchorage is really nice and there's lots of souvenir shopping, public art, etc. that you can enjoy. The bus system is not super frequent or convenient, but it isn't terrible either and a day pass is like $5.
If you want a recommendation for a good massage or tai chi class, memail me since I personally know some massage therapists I can suggest but would not want to fall afoul of self-promotion rules on Metafilter.
posted by blnkfrnk at 9:54 AM on January 14, 2018 [2 favorites]
The Anchorage Museum is totally worth your time! They have an incredible collection of Native Alaskan items that are well-presented, plus interested revolving exhibits. You could spend most of a day there and then get lunch in downtown. There are a lot of nice places plus a mall down the street.
The Anchorage Botanical Garden is just the right mix of gorgeous formal gardens and wild native flora. It's totally non-strenuous and a pleasant hike.
If you can drive a couple hours out of your way, Matanuska Glacier is totally worth it. It's the least strenuous glacier-- you can walk around on it in sneakers, though you need ice cleats to get really far out on it. You basically drive through a gift shop and sign some papers and pay $20 for access, then drive to the edge of the glacier, park, and walk around on it. There is a hill at the beginning to get down to the glacier and the serious ice and height requires some hill climbing, but you can have a good time on the flatter parts and take some amazing photos.
The Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center is about an hour's drive from Anchorage and is also totally worth it. You can see native Alaskan animals just doing their thing, including bears and moose and lynx and bald eagles and wolves up close, all of whom are part of some conservation or rescue operation (many of them were rescued from poachers or fires or something so the center is their best life. You can park and walk around, or there are bus tours that come in and you can opt to ride the haywagon or walk around on relatively flat (gravel, dirt) ground.
Downtown Anchorage is really nice and there's lots of souvenir shopping, public art, etc. that you can enjoy. The bus system is not super frequent or convenient, but it isn't terrible either and a day pass is like $5.
If you want a recommendation for a good massage or tai chi class, memail me since I personally know some massage therapists I can suggest but would not want to fall afoul of self-promotion rules on Metafilter.
posted by blnkfrnk at 9:54 AM on January 14, 2018 [2 favorites]
I'd do Kenai Fjords because the drive to Seward is so pretty. Its a long driver though 2-3 hours in the the summer, whereas Whittier is only 1 hour. Whittier is also right by the Conservation Center mentioned above so people combine them a lot.
At Denali take the park bus, it's fun. And Talkeetna is cool but it's very, very touristy. Hatcher Pass mine might be a more fun side trip if the weather is good, its gorgeous up there and the visitors center is interesting and there are lots of short hikes.
posted by fshgrl at 10:03 AM on January 14, 2018 [1 favorite]
At Denali take the park bus, it's fun. And Talkeetna is cool but it's very, very touristy. Hatcher Pass mine might be a more fun side trip if the weather is good, its gorgeous up there and the visitors center is interesting and there are lots of short hikes.
posted by fshgrl at 10:03 AM on January 14, 2018 [1 favorite]
We went in October of last year. We flew into Anchorage and spent a day there, then hopped on the train to Fairbanks.
The train ride is absolutely beautiful - I saw some of the most beautiful places I've ever seen in my life.
I would highly recommend taking the train to Denali, if you can - so pretty!
posted by needlegrrl at 10:04 AM on January 14, 2018 [1 favorite]
The train ride is absolutely beautiful - I saw some of the most beautiful places I've ever seen in my life.
I would highly recommend taking the train to Denali, if you can - so pretty!
posted by needlegrrl at 10:04 AM on January 14, 2018 [1 favorite]
Your reluctance about flying in small planes will be a limiting factor, I think. There are so few roads, and the distances are so vast, in Alaska that it's hard to get to non-touristy spots without flying in small planes. If you are willing to bend on that, you'll have much better luck seeing animals in the wild.
posted by DrGail at 11:10 AM on January 14, 2018
posted by DrGail at 11:10 AM on January 14, 2018
Best answer: Thunderbird Falls is a really nice hike with gentle hills. It does go up and down a bit, but the path is maintained and you can go as slow as you need. Even if you go only part way, there's a nice view of the river and lots of interesting plants. It's also about an hour's drive away from Anchorage.
posted by blnkfrnk at 12:14 PM on January 14, 2018
posted by blnkfrnk at 12:14 PM on January 14, 2018
Best answer: Hey, I live in Anchorage and am a full-on Alaska evangelist. Seconding bring more layers than you think you'll need, including and especially a rainproof/windproof layer you can fit about three more layers under. If you have one for the top AND bottom you'll be doing better than 97% of your tourist friends on the boat and will be able to stay out in much uglier weather. Even on a nice day out on the water it's much colder than most people are used to and I have never been sorry to have a warm hat and gloves with me if I'm out all day. August generally tends towards rainy and last summer was entirely 100% endless gray drizzle and temperatures in the 50s and low 60s.
You can do just fine with no small planes, although if you can overcome that and want to splurge, flightseeing to Denali out of Talkeetna is the among coolest and most spectacular things I have ever done up here.
Anchorage is a fun place in the summer and I agree with the suggestions above. Good places to eat:
Snow City Cafe for breakfast (make reservations a couple days before or you'll have to wait forever). Middle Way Cafe for breakfast and lunch (especially if you have veg*ns in the group). The Beartooth Pub for any meal (even breakfast- they do open late) or if you want to kill a rainy afternoon/evening with a movie and beer. Moose's Tooth for pizza if you don't mind waiting a while. The Glacier Brewhouse has great seafood but is a little spendy and crowded in the summer (you can make a reservation, or you can try your luck on tables in the huge bar side). If you want food deals from 3-6 or after 9, both Simon and Seafort's and Orso have good bar happy hours. Lots of good sushi/Thai/Vietnamese as well.
If you are interested in culture you might like the Native Heritage Center for a half day. If you are interested in purchasing Native art the best place in town to do this is the Alaska Native Medical Center gift shop (the hospital is also beautiful and has amazing art throughout).
Good places for tame walks:
1) the Coastal Trail starts downtown and runs for about 10 miles up to Kincaid Park. You can walk for any length and turn around, and it's right on the water and paved. My favorite sections are between Westchester Lagoon and Lynn Ary Park since the views are the nicest, or starting from Point Woronzof and heading towards Kincaid if you want to see moose. You can rent bikes downtown and do as much or as little as you want, too.
2) You can drive to the Kincaid Park chalet and walk from there on the unpaved trails. It's not SUPER well-signed but if you do one of the lighted loops it's pretty easy to follow the lights if you are confused what to do at an intersection. Lots of moose and very occasionally bear. There's staff at the chalet who can help you too. The Mize loop is the easiest and clearest, about 3 miles of rolling hills and it takes you out to some nice views on the backside (and it will be populated by disc golf players so you can ask for help if you need).
3) It's fun to drive to Lake Hood and walk around it and see all the small planes take on and off on a nice day. About 4 miles, flat. You can start at the Lakefront Hotel and end there in the patio with a beer and watch the planes if it is sunny (the other good patio with a view in town is the one at 49th State Brewing).
4) Drive up to the Glen Alps Trailhead. Straight out of the parking lot there's a 1/4 mile trail that takes you to a spectacular viewpoint of Anchorage and the water, and points out all the other mountains (including the volcanoes and the Alaska Range) that you can see on a nice day. You can also head out to Powerline Pass from there. It's a gorgeous gently sloping glacial valley and you can go up as far as you want. There's a bridge about 2.5 miles in that's a nice goal. Don't do Flattop Mountain from Glen Alps unless you want something steep.
Day trips: I'd probably do just one of the boat trips and I'd make it a longer one...the longer you're out, the more likely you'll see wildlife. In general I have seen more wildlife on the trips out of Seward, but it is also a longer drive. Seward is more of a real town and it's really nice to walk around the marina etc., which you can't do in Whittier, and you can have a really great dinner at the Cookery or Woody's Thai when you're done. You'll see more glaciers out of Whittier, though. All the trips are about the same so I'd decide your company based on cost/lunch preferences. I always wait to make a reservation until the week before so I can look at the weather, but you may not want to gamble that much.
Another good day trip: Girdwood is about 45 minutes out of Anchorage and is just beautiful. You can go out to the Conservation Center (which is mentioned above and is great) and then spend the rest of the day in Girdwood. The Winner Creek Trail is amazing and non-strenuous (if you start from the Crow Creek Mine side of the road and go to the gorge and back it's shorter that way, plus you get to use the hand tram, but it's a little flatter to to to the gorge from the hotel). You can also take the tram from the hotel to the top of the mountain, and it's stunning too (you could hike it up the North Face trail instead for free, but it is two VERY steep miles). Jack Sprat is pretty my favorite restaurant in the state for dinner afterwards.
Second good day trip: Hatcher Pass is about 90 minutes out of Anchorage and is gorgeous, lots of places to stop and take pictures on the way up. Gold Mint trail is pretty flat and would be doable, or you could do Gold Cord Lake.
Denali: the train and relaxing is fun but expensive. The drive is not bad and you can pull over at all the scenic overlooks. Talkeenta is kind of a hoot and is very pretty, and it would be fine to stop there. This is where you can flightsee to Denali from, which if you are brave and moneyed enough is really worth it on a nice day. I like the walking trails along XYZ Lakes, or just walking the main drag with a view of Denali is nice. My favorite place in town is the Flying Squirrel Bakery and coffeeshop on the way into town (they also do weekend dinners).
Denali proper: just take the regular green park shuttle bus. Get off the bus as much as you can; you can just hop on/hail the next one. All the bus drivers are knowledgeable and will stop for wildlife and narrate what they can- on the brown buses you are paying for 1) snacks 2) being with a bunch of cruise ship passengers 3) a driver with more formal training who may or may not know more than any other bus driver. If you go all the way to Wonder Lake it is a *ridiculously* long day on a school bus...you see all the highlights but Wonder Lake if you just go out to Eilson and get off and wander frequently and you'll probably be happier. There is an amazing little restaurant at mile 229 of the Parks Highway called Parks 229 on your way there or back.
Happy to answer more specific questions if you need- this is ridiculously long already. Enjoy your trip!
posted by charmedimsure at 12:39 PM on January 14, 2018 [8 favorites]
You can do just fine with no small planes, although if you can overcome that and want to splurge, flightseeing to Denali out of Talkeetna is the among coolest and most spectacular things I have ever done up here.
Anchorage is a fun place in the summer and I agree with the suggestions above. Good places to eat:
Snow City Cafe for breakfast (make reservations a couple days before or you'll have to wait forever). Middle Way Cafe for breakfast and lunch (especially if you have veg*ns in the group). The Beartooth Pub for any meal (even breakfast- they do open late) or if you want to kill a rainy afternoon/evening with a movie and beer. Moose's Tooth for pizza if you don't mind waiting a while. The Glacier Brewhouse has great seafood but is a little spendy and crowded in the summer (you can make a reservation, or you can try your luck on tables in the huge bar side). If you want food deals from 3-6 or after 9, both Simon and Seafort's and Orso have good bar happy hours. Lots of good sushi/Thai/Vietnamese as well.
If you are interested in culture you might like the Native Heritage Center for a half day. If you are interested in purchasing Native art the best place in town to do this is the Alaska Native Medical Center gift shop (the hospital is also beautiful and has amazing art throughout).
Good places for tame walks:
1) the Coastal Trail starts downtown and runs for about 10 miles up to Kincaid Park. You can walk for any length and turn around, and it's right on the water and paved. My favorite sections are between Westchester Lagoon and Lynn Ary Park since the views are the nicest, or starting from Point Woronzof and heading towards Kincaid if you want to see moose. You can rent bikes downtown and do as much or as little as you want, too.
2) You can drive to the Kincaid Park chalet and walk from there on the unpaved trails. It's not SUPER well-signed but if you do one of the lighted loops it's pretty easy to follow the lights if you are confused what to do at an intersection. Lots of moose and very occasionally bear. There's staff at the chalet who can help you too. The Mize loop is the easiest and clearest, about 3 miles of rolling hills and it takes you out to some nice views on the backside (and it will be populated by disc golf players so you can ask for help if you need).
3) It's fun to drive to Lake Hood and walk around it and see all the small planes take on and off on a nice day. About 4 miles, flat. You can start at the Lakefront Hotel and end there in the patio with a beer and watch the planes if it is sunny (the other good patio with a view in town is the one at 49th State Brewing).
4) Drive up to the Glen Alps Trailhead. Straight out of the parking lot there's a 1/4 mile trail that takes you to a spectacular viewpoint of Anchorage and the water, and points out all the other mountains (including the volcanoes and the Alaska Range) that you can see on a nice day. You can also head out to Powerline Pass from there. It's a gorgeous gently sloping glacial valley and you can go up as far as you want. There's a bridge about 2.5 miles in that's a nice goal. Don't do Flattop Mountain from Glen Alps unless you want something steep.
Day trips: I'd probably do just one of the boat trips and I'd make it a longer one...the longer you're out, the more likely you'll see wildlife. In general I have seen more wildlife on the trips out of Seward, but it is also a longer drive. Seward is more of a real town and it's really nice to walk around the marina etc., which you can't do in Whittier, and you can have a really great dinner at the Cookery or Woody's Thai when you're done. You'll see more glaciers out of Whittier, though. All the trips are about the same so I'd decide your company based on cost/lunch preferences. I always wait to make a reservation until the week before so I can look at the weather, but you may not want to gamble that much.
Another good day trip: Girdwood is about 45 minutes out of Anchorage and is just beautiful. You can go out to the Conservation Center (which is mentioned above and is great) and then spend the rest of the day in Girdwood. The Winner Creek Trail is amazing and non-strenuous (if you start from the Crow Creek Mine side of the road and go to the gorge and back it's shorter that way, plus you get to use the hand tram, but it's a little flatter to to to the gorge from the hotel). You can also take the tram from the hotel to the top of the mountain, and it's stunning too (you could hike it up the North Face trail instead for free, but it is two VERY steep miles). Jack Sprat is pretty my favorite restaurant in the state for dinner afterwards.
Second good day trip: Hatcher Pass is about 90 minutes out of Anchorage and is gorgeous, lots of places to stop and take pictures on the way up. Gold Mint trail is pretty flat and would be doable, or you could do Gold Cord Lake.
Denali: the train and relaxing is fun but expensive. The drive is not bad and you can pull over at all the scenic overlooks. Talkeenta is kind of a hoot and is very pretty, and it would be fine to stop there. This is where you can flightsee to Denali from, which if you are brave and moneyed enough is really worth it on a nice day. I like the walking trails along XYZ Lakes, or just walking the main drag with a view of Denali is nice. My favorite place in town is the Flying Squirrel Bakery and coffeeshop on the way into town (they also do weekend dinners).
Denali proper: just take the regular green park shuttle bus. Get off the bus as much as you can; you can just hop on/hail the next one. All the bus drivers are knowledgeable and will stop for wildlife and narrate what they can- on the brown buses you are paying for 1) snacks 2) being with a bunch of cruise ship passengers 3) a driver with more formal training who may or may not know more than any other bus driver. If you go all the way to Wonder Lake it is a *ridiculously* long day on a school bus...you see all the highlights but Wonder Lake if you just go out to Eilson and get off and wander frequently and you'll probably be happier. There is an amazing little restaurant at mile 229 of the Parks Highway called Parks 229 on your way there or back.
Happy to answer more specific questions if you need- this is ridiculously long already. Enjoy your trip!
posted by charmedimsure at 12:39 PM on January 14, 2018 [8 favorites]
Charmedimsure is 100% correct. I add: Eklutna Lake which is very pretty, has a flat trail by it and there is a place you can rent bikes and kayaks (call ahead).
posted by kerf at 2:09 PM on January 14, 2018
posted by kerf at 2:09 PM on January 14, 2018
Seward is a pretty town, and a nice place to take a wildlife watching day cruise. We did the fox island cruise which included dinner on Fox island... There are a lot of reviews for it online. See also Exit glacier, not far from Seward.
Closer to Denali, Talkeetna is a funky town with shops, restaurants, and weirdos.
The bus ride into Denali is a must-do, cross your fingers for clear weather. Most visitors to Denali don't get to see the mountain... We didn't see it until bee were 60 miles away on our way back to Anchorage..
posted by bricksNmortar at 5:06 PM on January 14, 2018
Closer to Denali, Talkeetna is a funky town with shops, restaurants, and weirdos.
The bus ride into Denali is a must-do, cross your fingers for clear weather. Most visitors to Denali don't get to see the mountain... We didn't see it until bee were 60 miles away on our way back to Anchorage..
posted by bricksNmortar at 5:06 PM on January 14, 2018
Response by poster: Wow, what great answers! Thank you everyone!
posted by aka burlap at 12:11 PM on January 15, 2018
posted by aka burlap at 12:11 PM on January 15, 2018
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