How to break in boots that are older than I am?
September 15, 2017 5:07 PM Subscribe
I picked up some unworn, vintage boots several years back. By all measures, they appear to fit me well (quite well in fact!) but my lack of knowing how to break in boots like this has prevented me from wearing them on the reg. I have many questions about the care and maintenance of these boots.
I picked up a pair of Friedman-Shelby boots a few years back at a yard sale, completely unworn in their box. These are probably the only nice shoes I've ever owned. I like them. I don't want to sell them, but I also want to freaking wear them. I've only worn them a couple dozen times in the last several years. I would like to increase this abysmal wear-to-not ratio.
I have a few questions about these little buddies:
-What is the best way to break these in?
-How should they act when they are broken in?
-They clock-clock-clock around and sound a bit like high-heels. Will this abate if I break them in?
-The soles appear to be leather all the way through. This would make them unsuitable for walking around in the rainy PNW, correct? How much moisture is too much?
-Best practices for maintaining the finish? I've had leather shoes before ,
-Is it possible to take them to a cobbler to have a rubber sole put on? Is this a thing that is done? Is this the worst idea?
Basically, I'm looking for a "How to fancy boot" guide, but have yet to find such a resource.
I picked up a pair of Friedman-Shelby boots a few years back at a yard sale, completely unworn in their box. These are probably the only nice shoes I've ever owned. I like them. I don't want to sell them, but I also want to freaking wear them. I've only worn them a couple dozen times in the last several years. I would like to increase this abysmal wear-to-not ratio.
I have a few questions about these little buddies:
-What is the best way to break these in?
-How should they act when they are broken in?
-They clock-clock-clock around and sound a bit like high-heels. Will this abate if I break them in?
-The soles appear to be leather all the way through. This would make them unsuitable for walking around in the rainy PNW, correct? How much moisture is too much?
-Best practices for maintaining the finish? I've had leather shoes before ,
-Is it possible to take them to a cobbler to have a rubber sole put on? Is this a thing that is done? Is this the worst idea?
Basically, I'm looking for a "How to fancy boot" guide, but have yet to find such a resource.
Best answer: -What is the best way to break these in?
First, condition the leather. You can usually find this at a decent shoe store or online. If they fit your foot, wear a thin pair of socks under a thicker pair and just. . .wear them. If there are pinchy spots, soak the whole foot part in alcohol and walk around in them with your double socks until the alcohol dries (this is a hiker trick). If there are rubbing spots, put moleskin on your feet where it rubs and walk until it doesn't rub.
This might take a while. It will be worth it. Those are good boots.
-How should they act when they are broken in?
They shouldn't rub or chafe
-They clock-clock-clock around and sound a bit like high-heels. Will this abate if I break them in?
Eh, probably not. It might a bit when the soles get more flexible tho. If it bugs you have a cobbler stick a rubber pad on the heel bottom.
-The soles appear to be leather all the way through. This would make them unsuitable for walking around in the rainy PNW, correct? How much moisture is too much?
You can waterproof them. They sell waterproofing liquid at good shoes stores. The soles should be thick enough to be ok. If not, put a rubber pad over the whole sole.
-Best practices for maintaining the finish? I've had leather shoes before ,
Condition them a few times a year and reapply the waterproofing. If you're walking on salted snowy roads, rise them with water and condition them when you get home (it's quick, and if you don't the salt wil stain and make them stiff). Rain and snow are fine if they're waterproofed. Salt is not so cool.
-Is it possible to take them to a cobbler to have a rubber sole put on? Is this a thing that is done? Is this the worst idea?
I'd let them break in a bit and then decide (see above) You can take a wire brush and rough the soles up a teeny bit if they're slippery.
posted by ananci at 6:00 PM on September 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
First, condition the leather. You can usually find this at a decent shoe store or online. If they fit your foot, wear a thin pair of socks under a thicker pair and just. . .wear them. If there are pinchy spots, soak the whole foot part in alcohol and walk around in them with your double socks until the alcohol dries (this is a hiker trick). If there are rubbing spots, put moleskin on your feet where it rubs and walk until it doesn't rub.
This might take a while. It will be worth it. Those are good boots.
-How should they act when they are broken in?
They shouldn't rub or chafe
-They clock-clock-clock around and sound a bit like high-heels. Will this abate if I break them in?
Eh, probably not. It might a bit when the soles get more flexible tho. If it bugs you have a cobbler stick a rubber pad on the heel bottom.
-The soles appear to be leather all the way through. This would make them unsuitable for walking around in the rainy PNW, correct? How much moisture is too much?
You can waterproof them. They sell waterproofing liquid at good shoes stores. The soles should be thick enough to be ok. If not, put a rubber pad over the whole sole.
-Best practices for maintaining the finish? I've had leather shoes before ,
Condition them a few times a year and reapply the waterproofing. If you're walking on salted snowy roads, rise them with water and condition them when you get home (it's quick, and if you don't the salt wil stain and make them stiff). Rain and snow are fine if they're waterproofed. Salt is not so cool.
-Is it possible to take them to a cobbler to have a rubber sole put on? Is this a thing that is done? Is this the worst idea?
I'd let them break in a bit and then decide (see above) You can take a wire brush and rough the soles up a teeny bit if they're slippery.
posted by ananci at 6:00 PM on September 15, 2017 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Ooh, pretty.
Soles: You will eventually need to resole (comes with the territory for leather-soled shoes) so at that point, you can decide whether leather soles work for you. Once they're a bit scuffed (not beaten up) the soles become tougher and able to handle less smooth terrain or a bit of damp. Just don't wear them in the rain. If you step in a puddle and soak the leather and can't quickly dry and condition it, they'll get damaged.
To break in: absolutely condition with a high quality leather conditioner before wearing these, even around the house. Good leather lasts and lasts, but it certainly dries out. If they've been sitting in a box, with temp and humidity fluctuations, they might crack instead of crinkle and you'll be very sad.
You know what, these are cobbler-worthy shoes. Take em in for a tune up, you're cobbler people now.
posted by kapers at 6:10 PM on September 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
Soles: You will eventually need to resole (comes with the territory for leather-soled shoes) so at that point, you can decide whether leather soles work for you. Once they're a bit scuffed (not beaten up) the soles become tougher and able to handle less smooth terrain or a bit of damp. Just don't wear them in the rain. If you step in a puddle and soak the leather and can't quickly dry and condition it, they'll get damaged.
To break in: absolutely condition with a high quality leather conditioner before wearing these, even around the house. Good leather lasts and lasts, but it certainly dries out. If they've been sitting in a box, with temp and humidity fluctuations, they might crack instead of crinkle and you'll be very sad.
You know what, these are cobbler-worthy shoes. Take em in for a tune up, you're cobbler people now.
posted by kapers at 6:10 PM on September 15, 2017 [3 favorites]
Best answer: You should be able to put sole protectors on them. These are thin rubber pieces that are cut to the contours of the shoe and then glued on to the sole. It was recommended to me from a reputable shoe shop to break in the shoes first and then go to the cobbler for these. Alternatively, you can get galoshes which will fit over the boot for bad weather.
For general maintenance I think you want to first figure out if the boots have an oil based finish like Chromexel leather. If you bend the toe and the creases look lighter than the rest of the finish, then it's probably oil based - this means you don't want to use traditional shoe polishes, but instead go for a cream leather conditioner. I use a color matched Saphir conditioner for my boots, but an untinted conditioner would also work. Just use a little bit every few months, rub it in and optionally buff with a shoe brush.
The clacking sound is caused by the buildup of the heel, and there's not much you can do about that. If the heels are wearing badly a cobbler can nail some heel reinforcements in - they look like tiny horseshoes and get installed where you strike your heel on the ground. Might deaden the sound, might not. It's not expensive, but check with a cobbler.
posted by backseatpilot at 7:36 PM on September 15, 2017
For general maintenance I think you want to first figure out if the boots have an oil based finish like Chromexel leather. If you bend the toe and the creases look lighter than the rest of the finish, then it's probably oil based - this means you don't want to use traditional shoe polishes, but instead go for a cream leather conditioner. I use a color matched Saphir conditioner for my boots, but an untinted conditioner would also work. Just use a little bit every few months, rub it in and optionally buff with a shoe brush.
The clacking sound is caused by the buildup of the heel, and there's not much you can do about that. If the heels are wearing badly a cobbler can nail some heel reinforcements in - they look like tiny horseshoes and get installed where you strike your heel on the ground. Might deaden the sound, might not. It's not expensive, but check with a cobbler.
posted by backseatpilot at 7:36 PM on September 15, 2017
Best answer: Wearing the boots and walking around in them is 95% of the break-in process, in my opinion. Yes condition the old leather, yes take care of them, but wear them. I wear modern work boots of similar all-leather construction every day, and it took a whole lot of just wearing my boots to get them fully broken in. They were always comfortable, but now they're moulded to the shape of my feet and calves and practically put themselves on in the morning. They've changed shape noticeably compared to when they were new; the contours follow those of my body very closely, even when I'm not wearing them. My leather tool pouch is the same way; it has a curve to it that follows the contour of my hip and thigh which wasn't there at all when it was new.
Do condition them, do clean them regularly, do let them dry fully between wearings. All of those things are important. Mainly though, wear them. That's the beauty of leather boots: the more you use them, the better they get.
posted by Anticipation Of A New Lover's Arrival, The at 8:12 PM on September 15, 2017
Do condition them, do clean them regularly, do let them dry fully between wearings. All of those things are important. Mainly though, wear them. That's the beauty of leather boots: the more you use them, the better they get.
posted by Anticipation Of A New Lover's Arrival, The at 8:12 PM on September 15, 2017
Best answer: Huberd's I've found to be pretty awesome stuff for breaking in and maintaining leather in the PNW. Bonus (or drawback if you hate it), is that it smells like pine tar soap. No animals fats either.
posted by los pantalones del muerte at 10:25 AM on September 16, 2017
posted by los pantalones del muerte at 10:25 AM on September 16, 2017
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Best practices for the finish are to never wear them. Then they don't get scuffed, nicked, and rubbed. But, boots hate that, and we are all headed for the grave anyway. Better to just accept the inevitable.
You can touch them up with a boot wax or polish. I've always preferred wax over polish as it seems to hold up better, though it doesn't give a bright shine. Opinions vary. If you are unsure of the color, try it on the tongue first. Warm the boots in the oven at 170 degrees for 20-30 minutes before waxing - the heat helps to work the wax in and makes for a better finish and water resistance. If you've never done polished boots, there are videos on youtube. But it's dead simple. Glop some on, rub it in. You can use a brush, but I always used an old t-shirt or towel, and a toothbrush for seams and small areas.
The soles may break in a bit - generally, the clomp of heels is why I always loved good leather boots. In the Marines, they taught us to heel strike to make it more pronounced, so you might try changing your gait a bit to see if that is quieter.
Those boots look sweet. I'm jelly.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 5:59 PM on September 15, 2017 [3 favorites]