Two weeks in Ireland
June 2, 2016 1:14 PM Subscribe
To celebrate finally getting my Irish Citizenship, I'm planning a trip to Ireland. Two weeks in Ireland: What shall I do, where shall I go?
I inherit Irish citizenship through a grandparent born in Belfast. Incredibly, even though I grew up and live in the UK, I've never been. I finally got round to registering my citizenship, and I want to celebrate with a really good 2 week tour of Ireland in July or August (alone, 35F gay, driving). I would like your help in choosing where to go and what to do!
Things I Like:
Museums - the more obscure the better
Old ruins, ancient stones, historic sites (but not the hyper-touristy ones)
Hiking and wild camping
Folk music
Real ale/craft beer
Bird watching, nature, scenery
Boat trips
Cities, but just for a day or so - especially if there is an lgbt scene
I am planning to drive and take a tent, but I'm not adverse to airBnB, hostels, bunkhouses etc.
What's your Ireland must-sees, dos and gos?
I inherit Irish citizenship through a grandparent born in Belfast. Incredibly, even though I grew up and live in the UK, I've never been. I finally got round to registering my citizenship, and I want to celebrate with a really good 2 week tour of Ireland in July or August (alone, 35F gay, driving). I would like your help in choosing where to go and what to do!
Things I Like:
Museums - the more obscure the better
Old ruins, ancient stones, historic sites (but not the hyper-touristy ones)
Hiking and wild camping
Folk music
Real ale/craft beer
Bird watching, nature, scenery
Boat trips
Cities, but just for a day or so - especially if there is an lgbt scene
I am planning to drive and take a tent, but I'm not adverse to airBnB, hostels, bunkhouses etc.
What's your Ireland must-sees, dos and gos?
Best answer: Definitely make a day for a boat trip to explore one of the Aran Islands. Glendalough can get crowded but it's still a can't-miss due to the sense of history and wild setting. I had a great time at Skellig Michael, which was also a boat trip and a memorable climb, but it could be overwhelmed now that it has been in Star Wars.
Lisdoonvarna is a tiny little town that's a reliable bet for a warm welcome and good live music; it's famous for a fall matchmaking festival, which includes an LGBT offshoot.
posted by chimpsonfilm at 2:32 PM on June 2, 2016 [2 favorites]
Lisdoonvarna is a tiny little town that's a reliable bet for a warm welcome and good live music; it's famous for a fall matchmaking festival, which includes an LGBT offshoot.
posted by chimpsonfilm at 2:32 PM on June 2, 2016 [2 favorites]
Best answer: A friend and I visited the Dingle peninsula and loved it. I read the short autobiography of Peig Sayers before the trip, and was really excited to take the ferry to the Great Blasket Island. Just gorgeous. We also rented bikes in Dingle and biked around the Slea Head Loop a bit. We stopped at Ventry Beach (where we saw racehorses being put through their paces on the sand - that galloping sound just gets in your chest!) and a few historical sites (including the Dunbeg Fort). We also enjoyed pizza and a glass of French cider at the Blue Zone after a long day. There seemed to be a lot of folk music about too. We didn't find it too crowded.
posted by stompadour at 2:36 PM on June 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by stompadour at 2:36 PM on June 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Seconding Dingle. Such a beautiful peninsula, wish we had spent more time there - so much to do and fantastic music in the evenings (Murphy's had the best in our opinion).
The Wild Atlantic Way is a gorgeous coastal route you can drive or bike from Kinsale all the way to Northern Ireland. And there is a off-the-beaten-path stone circle we stumbled on in West Cork called the Dromberg Stone Circle, we had the place to ourselves, it's definitely not a well-advertised tourist attraction but was one of our favorite things from our two weeks there.
Walk the Cliffs of Moher with Pat Sweeney before word gets out about how great it is. When we went we were in a group of 8 total people and you walk with Pat from Doolin center all the way to the welcome center (5 miles) along the edge of the cliffs, and walk back with him if you like. Along the way he tells fantastic stories of the cliffs and the areas, and the views are spectacular.
If you drive the Ring of Kerry, drive anti-clockwise to go against the flow of tour buses so you don't get stuck behind them! We did it by accident that way but did not envy the long lines of rental cars behind the unloading buses headed the other way 'round. Or you can hike the whole thing in about 10 days.
Glendalough Monastic site is a great place for a day hike but get there early before the tour buses arrive.
Also, Newgrange Passage Tomb is a must-see for old ruin lovers - yes, touristy but absolutely worth it in my opinion.
posted by danapiper at 3:10 PM on June 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
The Wild Atlantic Way is a gorgeous coastal route you can drive or bike from Kinsale all the way to Northern Ireland. And there is a off-the-beaten-path stone circle we stumbled on in West Cork called the Dromberg Stone Circle, we had the place to ourselves, it's definitely not a well-advertised tourist attraction but was one of our favorite things from our two weeks there.
Walk the Cliffs of Moher with Pat Sweeney before word gets out about how great it is. When we went we were in a group of 8 total people and you walk with Pat from Doolin center all the way to the welcome center (5 miles) along the edge of the cliffs, and walk back with him if you like. Along the way he tells fantastic stories of the cliffs and the areas, and the views are spectacular.
If you drive the Ring of Kerry, drive anti-clockwise to go against the flow of tour buses so you don't get stuck behind them! We did it by accident that way but did not envy the long lines of rental cars behind the unloading buses headed the other way 'round. Or you can hike the whole thing in about 10 days.
Glendalough Monastic site is a great place for a day hike but get there early before the tour buses arrive.
Also, Newgrange Passage Tomb is a must-see for old ruin lovers - yes, touristy but absolutely worth it in my opinion.
posted by danapiper at 3:10 PM on June 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
Best answer: The Cork Butter Museum is pretty great.
Busy vs hypertouristy sites- the Bru na Boinne visitor's center is extensive but really nicely done and busy, and does the tours to Newgrange and some other sites. Tara was (to me) surprisingly not busy and built up when we were there (rainy weekday). Cliffs of Moher was very touristy from the visitor center entrance side, but the walks in others have suggested would be less so. I found Ireland to be very good for helpful historic plaques and in general useful but not intrusive tourist infrastructure.
Dingle all over is a yes, look for Brandon Point on the North Side and talk to the nice people at Sciuird archaeological tours about a van trip if you're staying in the city, though you may get to some of the same sites if you head to the Blaskets or spend more time at the tip of the peninsula. The guide was a nice delight and also gives local distillery tours, though.
There's a spot over the bridge north of Cahirsiveen where you can stand in one ring fort and look at another ring fort, the ruins of Ballycarbery castle, a bunch of sheep, hills, and water all at once that was good. If you do the Ring of Kerry, also do the Skellig Ring (which has a smaller impressive cliffs exhibit), and think about the Ring of Beara on the peninsula to the south, which we heard was still much less touristy when we got to Kenmare.
Two of our favorite natural areas were Connemara and the Burren (go find the Burren Perfumery). To the northwest, Connemara is incredible on sunny and rainy days, and has coastal countryside and Loughs and mountains and some hiking- we only got as far as Connemara National Park, but we could have spent a week in the area.
For music, many pubs will have a) better food than you think and b) something playing. Our favorite was a guy at Ti Joe Watty's on Inishmore, but we heard many we liked. Local and craft beer is increasingly available, and many pubs make an effort to stock the regional brews. The reds were particularly tasty to me, but there was usually a pale, red, and dark from nearby.
If you're driving alone, check the gps route before you go and study the map- the roads require all a driver's attention especially in more rural areas, hard to navigate alone as you go.
posted by slanket wizard at 5:15 PM on June 2, 2016
Busy vs hypertouristy sites- the Bru na Boinne visitor's center is extensive but really nicely done and busy, and does the tours to Newgrange and some other sites. Tara was (to me) surprisingly not busy and built up when we were there (rainy weekday). Cliffs of Moher was very touristy from the visitor center entrance side, but the walks in others have suggested would be less so. I found Ireland to be very good for helpful historic plaques and in general useful but not intrusive tourist infrastructure.
Dingle all over is a yes, look for Brandon Point on the North Side and talk to the nice people at Sciuird archaeological tours about a van trip if you're staying in the city, though you may get to some of the same sites if you head to the Blaskets or spend more time at the tip of the peninsula. The guide was a nice delight and also gives local distillery tours, though.
There's a spot over the bridge north of Cahirsiveen where you can stand in one ring fort and look at another ring fort, the ruins of Ballycarbery castle, a bunch of sheep, hills, and water all at once that was good. If you do the Ring of Kerry, also do the Skellig Ring (which has a smaller impressive cliffs exhibit), and think about the Ring of Beara on the peninsula to the south, which we heard was still much less touristy when we got to Kenmare.
Two of our favorite natural areas were Connemara and the Burren (go find the Burren Perfumery). To the northwest, Connemara is incredible on sunny and rainy days, and has coastal countryside and Loughs and mountains and some hiking- we only got as far as Connemara National Park, but we could have spent a week in the area.
For music, many pubs will have a) better food than you think and b) something playing. Our favorite was a guy at Ti Joe Watty's on Inishmore, but we heard many we liked. Local and craft beer is increasingly available, and many pubs make an effort to stock the regional brews. The reds were particularly tasty to me, but there was usually a pale, red, and dark from nearby.
If you're driving alone, check the gps route before you go and study the map- the roads require all a driver's attention especially in more rural areas, hard to navigate alone as you go.
posted by slanket wizard at 5:15 PM on June 2, 2016
Best answer: If you're driving alone, check the gps route before you go and study the map- the roads require all a driver's attention especially in more rural areas, hard to navigate alone as you go.
QFT.
A lot of minor Irish roads are un-named and un-signed, so it can be quite easy to get lost in the countryside.
posted by HiroProtagonist at 7:08 PM on June 2, 2016 [2 favorites]
QFT.
A lot of minor Irish roads are un-named and un-signed, so it can be quite easy to get lost in the countryside.
posted by HiroProtagonist at 7:08 PM on June 2, 2016 [2 favorites]
Best answer: I loved the Beara Peninsula even more than the Dingle -- MUCH less crowded and built up, and still a wonderful circular drive with lots of old ruins to pull over and see, plus a cable car at the end!
posted by LeeLanded at 10:58 PM on June 2, 2016
posted by LeeLanded at 10:58 PM on June 2, 2016
Best answer: Are you going to Northern Ireland? We just got back from a tour of the whole island and the day where we did Giant's Causeway and Carrick-a-rede bridge was probably my favorite day. In Belfast, we took a black cab tour of the sectarian areas that was fascinating. It was hard to find, but very worth it. Here is a link to the street view of the place we used. Tom was our driver and he was great!
One day can be a visit to the Cliffs of Moher (maybe you will see puffins) both the top and then take a boat ride from Dooley to visit them from below. Drive through the Burren and stop at Poulnabrone Dolmen. It is older than the pyramids and doesn't take much time.
Drives:
-Connemara, especially the Sky Road in Clifden.
-Ring of Kerry, with Torc Waterfall, Ladies' view, Staigue Fort (ruins!) and the Skellig loop with a beach where you can see the Skellig islands.
-Dingle, which has great ocean views but also several interesting ruins. Beehive huts, Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar.
Places that will be crowded/touristy but still worth it:
Newgrange/Knowth
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) in Dublin - book your ticket at least one day in advance.
Boat trips:
Aran Islands, as mentioned upthread
Skellig tour - which will include birds and a million steps.
There are ferries from Dublin (and other places) back to England and Wales. You could do a Sail/Rail ticket to get there or to get back home.
posted by soelo at 7:44 AM on June 3, 2016
One day can be a visit to the Cliffs of Moher (maybe you will see puffins) both the top and then take a boat ride from Dooley to visit them from below. Drive through the Burren and stop at Poulnabrone Dolmen. It is older than the pyramids and doesn't take much time.
Drives:
-Connemara, especially the Sky Road in Clifden.
-Ring of Kerry, with Torc Waterfall, Ladies' view, Staigue Fort (ruins!) and the Skellig loop with a beach where you can see the Skellig islands.
-Dingle, which has great ocean views but also several interesting ruins. Beehive huts, Gallarus Oratory and Kilmalkedar.
Places that will be crowded/touristy but still worth it:
Newgrange/Knowth
Kilmainham Gaol (Jail) in Dublin - book your ticket at least one day in advance.
Boat trips:
Aran Islands, as mentioned upthread
Skellig tour - which will include birds and a million steps.
There are ferries from Dublin (and other places) back to England and Wales. You could do a Sail/Rail ticket to get there or to get back home.
posted by soelo at 7:44 AM on June 3, 2016
Best answer: One more: we heard good things about the Viking tour in Dublin, but it was sold out. It is on an amphibious vehicle that drives the streets and the river and the people riding it seemed to be having a lot of fun.
posted by soelo at 7:47 AM on June 3, 2016
posted by soelo at 7:47 AM on June 3, 2016
Best answer: The Natural History Museum in Dublin is really strange and cool. It's very old fashioned with everything in a bit of a jumble. No fancy dioramas here! You can get an idea of it from their website.
When I went to Ireland we bought passes from Heritage Ireland, which gives you free admission to a lot of castles and historic sites. Some are very touristy (but worth seeing), like Glendalough and Bru na Boinne, but some are very small and obscure. We were driving so we just looked at the map and picked some things to see along the way. It has been a long time so I don't remember all of them!
posted by apricot at 8:41 AM on June 3, 2016
When I went to Ireland we bought passes from Heritage Ireland, which gives you free admission to a lot of castles and historic sites. Some are very touristy (but worth seeing), like Glendalough and Bru na Boinne, but some are very small and obscure. We were driving so we just looked at the map and picked some things to see along the way. It has been a long time so I don't remember all of them!
posted by apricot at 8:41 AM on June 3, 2016
Best answer: For lesser-known museums you can't beat the Chester Beatty library and Marsh's library, both in Dublin. The Viking Splash Tour that soelo mentions is surprisingly fun (though somewhat expensive - €20-ish per person). Given your citizenship (welcome, btw) it's particularly fitting for you to see the 1916 exhibitions - I enjoyed this one in Collins Barracks and have yet to see this one in the GPO.
Outside of Dublin, touristy Ireland is at its peak in the summer. The Cliffs of Moher, the Ring of Kerry, the Burren and the Wild Atlantic Way will all be busy, but that's because those are the best things in the Republic. Venturing to Sligo and Donegal in the north-west takes you a bit off the beaten path, and if the weather is good (it is beyond wonderful by Irish standards right now, touch wood) you'll do well to find a more beautiful and rugged corner of the world. The bird-watching there is astounding, I am told. Plus the people are entertainingly odd. (I am one of them, though I live in Dublin now.)
To get to the good trad music, you need to find a bar where there is some sort of trad music going on (e.g. the Oliver St John Gogarty in Temple Bar, Dublin [pronounced 'Sinjon' for 'St John']) and then ask the people who are playing it where they like to go. That's how you find the real deal. For non-touristy ruins, just pick a random town, go to the local pub, the priest or the post office, and ask them what ruins are around. There are ruins everywhere.
For the LGTB scene you could start with The George in Dublin. My gay friends don't love it, but again it will be a source of people who can point you in more interesting directions.
Have fun! Feel free to MeMail me if I can be of further assistance.
posted by StephenF at 2:01 PM on June 3, 2016 [1 favorite]
Outside of Dublin, touristy Ireland is at its peak in the summer. The Cliffs of Moher, the Ring of Kerry, the Burren and the Wild Atlantic Way will all be busy, but that's because those are the best things in the Republic. Venturing to Sligo and Donegal in the north-west takes you a bit off the beaten path, and if the weather is good (it is beyond wonderful by Irish standards right now, touch wood) you'll do well to find a more beautiful and rugged corner of the world. The bird-watching there is astounding, I am told. Plus the people are entertainingly odd. (I am one of them, though I live in Dublin now.)
To get to the good trad music, you need to find a bar where there is some sort of trad music going on (e.g. the Oliver St John Gogarty in Temple Bar, Dublin [pronounced 'Sinjon' for 'St John']) and then ask the people who are playing it where they like to go. That's how you find the real deal. For non-touristy ruins, just pick a random town, go to the local pub, the priest or the post office, and ask them what ruins are around. There are ruins everywhere.
For the LGTB scene you could start with The George in Dublin. My gay friends don't love it, but again it will be a source of people who can point you in more interesting directions.
Have fun! Feel free to MeMail me if I can be of further assistance.
posted by StephenF at 2:01 PM on June 3, 2016 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: These are all FANTASTIC responses and exactly what I was looking for! I think I got halfway through before worrying that it's not the done thing to mark every answer as best.
holgate - I've spent many years in rural Scotland and northern England, so that might have prepared me for the driving a little bit. Achill islands look like they could take a week on their own!
Chimpsonfilm - oh my goodness The Outing, I'd never even heard of it but I might just have to have another visit to Ireland in the Autumn for it.
Stompadour - well that all sounds incredible too.
Danapiiper - all added to the list
Slanket Wizard - some excellent things there, I am very interested. ta for the driving tips, I am used to navigating roads in Scotland's highlands & islands so hopefully that will prepare me a little..
Hiroprotagonist ...but yes sounds like I'll be getting very lost
EmilyFlew - so Bearer instead of Dingle? I will investigate!
Soelo, the Sky Road looks incredible, and I am starting to see a couple of the same place names come up. I'm currently in Cumbria, so looking at P&O Liverpool - Dublin. The Skellig Tour and the Aran both sounds awesome.
Apricot: yes yes yes Natural History museums are my absolute fave
StephenF: thank you for the welcome! having lived in Edinburgh, I really appreciate someone able to point me things that are as good as the tourist traps. I'll definitely be looking at those. I hadn't even thought about the 1916 anniversary but something I'd very much like to learn more about. will drop you a memail too later this weekend too.
posted by sarahdal at 2:30 PM on June 3, 2016 [2 favorites]
holgate - I've spent many years in rural Scotland and northern England, so that might have prepared me for the driving a little bit. Achill islands look like they could take a week on their own!
Chimpsonfilm - oh my goodness The Outing, I'd never even heard of it but I might just have to have another visit to Ireland in the Autumn for it.
Stompadour - well that all sounds incredible too.
Danapiiper - all added to the list
Slanket Wizard - some excellent things there, I am very interested. ta for the driving tips, I am used to navigating roads in Scotland's highlands & islands so hopefully that will prepare me a little..
Hiroprotagonist ...but yes sounds like I'll be getting very lost
EmilyFlew - so Bearer instead of Dingle? I will investigate!
Soelo, the Sky Road looks incredible, and I am starting to see a couple of the same place names come up. I'm currently in Cumbria, so looking at P&O Liverpool - Dublin. The Skellig Tour and the Aran both sounds awesome.
Apricot: yes yes yes Natural History museums are my absolute fave
StephenF: thank you for the welcome! having lived in Edinburgh, I really appreciate someone able to point me things that are as good as the tourist traps. I'll definitely be looking at those. I hadn't even thought about the 1916 anniversary but something I'd very much like to learn more about. will drop you a memail too later this weekend too.
posted by sarahdal at 2:30 PM on June 3, 2016 [2 favorites]
This video will get you in the mood
If you want try a dip in one of Dublins swimming spots, I'm involved with this group
posted by smugly rowan at 12:19 AM on June 4, 2016
If you want try a dip in one of Dublins swimming spots, I'm involved with this group
posted by smugly rowan at 12:19 AM on June 4, 2016
I visited Downpatrick Head, County Mayo, in early July a couple of years ago. The Dun Briste sea stack just off the cliffs there was not only stunning to look at but covered in nesting seabirds - fulmars and guillemots (like penguins! flying penguins! adorable flocks of flying penguins!) for sure, and doubtless others I didn't recognise.
And just a few miles from there is Céide Fields, "the most extensive Neolithic site in the world". Well worth a look.
Neither was busy when we visited, though the periodic flurries of rain may have had some bearing on that...
posted by ManyLeggedCreature at 1:55 PM on June 16, 2016
And just a few miles from there is Céide Fields, "the most extensive Neolithic site in the world". Well worth a look.
Neither was busy when we visited, though the periodic flurries of rain may have had some bearing on that...
posted by ManyLeggedCreature at 1:55 PM on June 16, 2016
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But, anyway: go to Achill Island. There'll be lots of activity tourists at that time of year, but you'll still be able to find bits facing out into the Atlantic that are bleak and quiet and beautiful.
posted by holgate at 1:30 PM on June 2, 2016 [2 favorites]