Travel filter: Grand Canyon, Bryce, Sedona, Flagstaff, and Zion edition
May 25, 2016 1:34 PM Subscribe
Asking for a friend, who says: "Our family (two adults, three kids, 15, 8, and 6) will be traveling to Arizona in mid-June. We will fly into Flagstaff on June 14th, rent a car, and fly out of Flagstaff on July 2. Please help us plan our itinerary and suggest any must-sees/should-avoids along the way."
Here are her questions:
* We'd like to see the Grand Canyon (North Rim and South Rim), Bryce, Zion, Flagstaff, and Sedona. Given our arrival in and departure from Flagstaff, in what order should we visit these places? Can anyone suggest a specific route? How much time should we allow for each stop and for travel?
* Are there any specific accommodations (budget-friendly would be ideal) in these destinations, or between them, that you can recommend? Any restaurants?
* My 15-year-old is set on the Skywalk. But we're not sure it's worth the time and expense. Opinions?
* Can a 6-year-old hike Bright Angel Trail to the first rest stop?
* Are Bearizona and the Williams train to the Grand Canyon worth doing?
* Is the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert a must-see?
* Are cheap motels family-friendly?
* Suggestions for kids' activities in Sedona?
* Will the kids need hiking boots for the Grand Canyon, or will sneakers be OK?
* Pacing: While we'd like to do a variety of things, we don't want to exhaust ourselves. How much unplanned time should we build in?
* Should I overbook hotels to allow for flexibility? That is, book an extra day in advance, with the possibility of cancelling (within accommodations' window for cancellation) in case we want to stay somewhere longer?
* How does the time difference (we are East coasters) affect planning?
* Other advice?
Thanks so much!
Here are her questions:
* We'd like to see the Grand Canyon (North Rim and South Rim), Bryce, Zion, Flagstaff, and Sedona. Given our arrival in and departure from Flagstaff, in what order should we visit these places? Can anyone suggest a specific route? How much time should we allow for each stop and for travel?
* Are there any specific accommodations (budget-friendly would be ideal) in these destinations, or between them, that you can recommend? Any restaurants?
* My 15-year-old is set on the Skywalk. But we're not sure it's worth the time and expense. Opinions?
* Can a 6-year-old hike Bright Angel Trail to the first rest stop?
* Are Bearizona and the Williams train to the Grand Canyon worth doing?
* Is the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert a must-see?
* Are cheap motels family-friendly?
* Suggestions for kids' activities in Sedona?
* Will the kids need hiking boots for the Grand Canyon, or will sneakers be OK?
* Pacing: While we'd like to do a variety of things, we don't want to exhaust ourselves. How much unplanned time should we build in?
* Should I overbook hotels to allow for flexibility? That is, book an extra day in advance, with the possibility of cancelling (within accommodations' window for cancellation) in case we want to stay somewhere longer?
* How does the time difference (we are East coasters) affect planning?
* Other advice?
Thanks so much!
Let's see, Flagstaff is a nice little town, but I'm not sure what to tell you about it. The guy who ran the B&B where we stayed talked us out of going to the petrified forest. It's a really, really long drive, and when you get there, there's nothing there but some rocks. As in nothing to eat. Nothing to do. There's some rocks. Some of the rocks used to be trees, which is mildly interesting, I'll grant you. But they're still rocks.
Instead he suggested a circuit of the old native ruins in the vicinity. Specifically Walnut Canyon and the Wupatki Pueblo. There's also an old extinct volcano in the area that has left really cool terrain around. We had a great day taking a big arc around the various ruins from Flagstaff and ending up in Sedona by dinner time.
When in Sedona, eat at the Elote Cafe. Otherwise your whole trip is wasted.
At Grand Canyon, stay in the park if possible. We stayed at Yavapai Lodge. It wasn't five star by any means but it was nice. If you are going some distance down Bright Angel, you want to get an early start. It will heat up in there by midday. I can't speak to the abilities of a six-year old as we didn't take one with us. Same for sneakers. But you want to start at like 8:00 in the morning.
Not sure I have useful answers to your other questions, but hopefully that helps. Have a great trip!
posted by Naberius at 1:46 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
Instead he suggested a circuit of the old native ruins in the vicinity. Specifically Walnut Canyon and the Wupatki Pueblo. There's also an old extinct volcano in the area that has left really cool terrain around. We had a great day taking a big arc around the various ruins from Flagstaff and ending up in Sedona by dinner time.
When in Sedona, eat at the Elote Cafe. Otherwise your whole trip is wasted.
At Grand Canyon, stay in the park if possible. We stayed at Yavapai Lodge. It wasn't five star by any means but it was nice. If you are going some distance down Bright Angel, you want to get an early start. It will heat up in there by midday. I can't speak to the abilities of a six-year old as we didn't take one with us. Same for sneakers. But you want to start at like 8:00 in the morning.
Not sure I have useful answers to your other questions, but hopefully that helps. Have a great trip!
posted by Naberius at 1:46 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
Well, maybe I can add a bit more anecdata, actually. I'm dubious of the plan to do the north and south rim of the canyon. There really isn't any convenient way to get from one to the other. I mean it's possible, but it's a long drive that goes way out of your way. The west is big.
I would have loved to do the train to the Grand Canyon, but then when we got there, we'd have no car, and you want one. We made the same call on the Skywalk. Long way to go. I also really, really wanted to do Havasupai Falls, but same issue. (That site might be helpful in general, actually.)
All this is from a trip my wife and I did to the area a couple years ago. I'll have to dig up our itinerary. We weren't there that long, but I think we did a pretty good job of it.
posted by Naberius at 1:54 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
I would have loved to do the train to the Grand Canyon, but then when we got there, we'd have no car, and you want one. We made the same call on the Skywalk. Long way to go. I also really, really wanted to do Havasupai Falls, but same issue. (That site might be helpful in general, actually.)
All this is from a trip my wife and I did to the area a couple years ago. I'll have to dig up our itinerary. We weren't there that long, but I think we did a pretty good job of it.
posted by Naberius at 1:54 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
If you're animal people, I recommend checking out Best Friends Animal Sanctuary when you're near Zion. Their sanctuary is huge and awesome and if you reserve in advance you can volunteer while you're there (i.e., play with puppies). They also have cabins you can rent that are pretty nice and affordable - you can sign up to take a dog on an overnight in your cabin so they can practice being in a home-like environment before adoption (but this is absolutely not required or expected when renting the cabin).
Plan for the drive from the park entrance to the scenic areas or trailheads. Google maps will tell you how long it takes to get to the entrance gate of a National Park where you pay, but usually the actual park-y stuff is at least another 45 minutes beyond the gate. If you've only planned to be at a park for, say, 3 hours, you'll spend at least half of that driving to and from the entrance.
MAKE SURE YOU BRING ENOUGH WATER. Plan your supplies so that you can be out for significantly longer than you expect -- someone getting a sprained ankle on a hike might mean that the group has to shelter in place until help arrives. National Parks are groomed to an extent, but they are largely just untouched wilderness -- people can and do die or get seriously injured. Don't assume that because something is a tourist attraction it has been made safe enough to ignore basic wilderness safety.
posted by melissasaurus at 1:55 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
Plan for the drive from the park entrance to the scenic areas or trailheads. Google maps will tell you how long it takes to get to the entrance gate of a National Park where you pay, but usually the actual park-y stuff is at least another 45 minutes beyond the gate. If you've only planned to be at a park for, say, 3 hours, you'll spend at least half of that driving to and from the entrance.
MAKE SURE YOU BRING ENOUGH WATER. Plan your supplies so that you can be out for significantly longer than you expect -- someone getting a sprained ankle on a hike might mean that the group has to shelter in place until help arrives. National Parks are groomed to an extent, but they are largely just untouched wilderness -- people can and do die or get seriously injured. Don't assume that because something is a tourist attraction it has been made safe enough to ignore basic wilderness safety.
posted by melissasaurus at 1:55 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
A definite second for WATER. Bring more than you think you will need. The July sun is brutal.
I'll also second the park ranger talks. Also, don't be afraid to ask any rangers or front desk personnel for help with last-minute plans. They know the best spots in the parks and will be able to tell you, for instance, if your youngest children can make a trail's distance.
You will be impressed with Grand Canyon no matter where you attend. If you can make it to the Skywalk, great. If not, your jaw will still hit the ground and you won't be able to speak for about half an hour. (I was impressed...).
Because of poor planning and the surprise of the trip, I once walked a few miles of the Bright Angel Trail in men's dress shoes. According to Wikipedia it averages about a 10 percent grade. The distance to the first rest stop is only 1.6 miles, and it drops about 1,000 feet in that distance. I saw many kids that age walking the trail. Again, don't fear the park rangers.
Sneakers will get you down that trail and around the Rim Trail OK. HIking boots are always great to protect against twisted ankles. You may find them more necessary at the other parks on your itinerary. The floors of these trails are not always perfect. Dirt. Mud. Rocks. Bigger rocks.
One route you could take, if you have your heart set on the Skywalk, is from Sedona to Flagstaff and then on I-40 East to get to the Skywalk. See directions here. Stop at the Hoover Dam for an hour if you have time. You can get there early, like 6 a.m., and walk around enjoying its concrete majesty without the crowd.
Otherwise, I highly recommend the drive from Flagstaff to the North Rim and up through Utah to get you to Bryce and Zion. It's hours and hours of beautiful.
posted by mr_bovis at 2:17 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
I'll also second the park ranger talks. Also, don't be afraid to ask any rangers or front desk personnel for help with last-minute plans. They know the best spots in the parks and will be able to tell you, for instance, if your youngest children can make a trail's distance.
You will be impressed with Grand Canyon no matter where you attend. If you can make it to the Skywalk, great. If not, your jaw will still hit the ground and you won't be able to speak for about half an hour. (I was impressed...).
Because of poor planning and the surprise of the trip, I once walked a few miles of the Bright Angel Trail in men's dress shoes. According to Wikipedia it averages about a 10 percent grade. The distance to the first rest stop is only 1.6 miles, and it drops about 1,000 feet in that distance. I saw many kids that age walking the trail. Again, don't fear the park rangers.
Sneakers will get you down that trail and around the Rim Trail OK. HIking boots are always great to protect against twisted ankles. You may find them more necessary at the other parks on your itinerary. The floors of these trails are not always perfect. Dirt. Mud. Rocks. Bigger rocks.
One route you could take, if you have your heart set on the Skywalk, is from Sedona to Flagstaff and then on I-40 East to get to the Skywalk. See directions here. Stop at the Hoover Dam for an hour if you have time. You can get there early, like 6 a.m., and walk around enjoying its concrete majesty without the crowd.
Otherwise, I highly recommend the drive from Flagstaff to the North Rim and up through Utah to get you to Bryce and Zion. It's hours and hours of beautiful.
posted by mr_bovis at 2:17 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
The Williams train to the Grand Canyon is worth considering. Both kids would probably like it. Google "Grand Canyon Railway" for package deals that include the Williams hotel for a night and breakfast before you leave, and one or two nights' accommodation at the Grand Canyon. Rooms at Grand Canyon that are part of the train package are "budget", but clean and very serviceable. They are some distance back from the South Rim, though. You will either do a fair amount of walking, or wait for the shuttle service.
Local stuntmen put on a "shootout" in Williams the morning before the train leaves. "Bandits" attack and board the train during the return trip. Quite fun, though could be difficult for especially fearful children. If you can afford them, Dome Car seats give a great view and include drinks and snacks on the ride.
The train gets to the Grand Canyon mid-morning and leaves early afternoon. That leaves only a short window for sightseeing if you don't stay overnight.
The train package also includes a 40 to 45 minute bus tour of some of the highlights of the South Rim which begins almost immediately after arrival. I think it includes a box lunch, but can't recall for sure.
If you feel like you can splurge, have lunch at El Tovar.
posted by John Borrowman at 2:20 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
Local stuntmen put on a "shootout" in Williams the morning before the train leaves. "Bandits" attack and board the train during the return trip. Quite fun, though could be difficult for especially fearful children. If you can afford them, Dome Car seats give a great view and include drinks and snacks on the ride.
The train gets to the Grand Canyon mid-morning and leaves early afternoon. That leaves only a short window for sightseeing if you don't stay overnight.
The train package also includes a 40 to 45 minute bus tour of some of the highlights of the South Rim which begins almost immediately after arrival. I think it includes a box lunch, but can't recall for sure.
If you feel like you can splurge, have lunch at El Tovar.
posted by John Borrowman at 2:20 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
I will definitely speak to this:
How does the time difference (we are East coasters) affect planning?
The biggest thing you will need to be aware of is that Arizona and Utah may actually not be in the time zones you think they are. My own family took a trip to almost that exact part of the world at that exact time, with Nevada thrown in; and I think the problem we ran into was that going from Nevada across to either Utah or Arizona put us into the Mountain Time zone, but then crossing from Utah into Arizona (I think?) made the time change again, because one of those states actually doesn't observe daylight savings time. And this was all the more complicated when we went to Lake Powell/Glen Canyon, because that straddled the border of Utah and Arizona.
The reason I'm being so vague is because we were all thoroughly confused by all the time changes ourselves as we travelled, and it actually lead to a moment where my father plaintively stopped a park ranger at Lake Powell and asked "what time is it in the exact spot where I am standing right now?"
So, yeah, study up the time zones and what they are depending on where in the world you would be at any given point - not just for the planning, but so that you don't go totally nuts.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 2:22 PM on May 25, 2016 [3 favorites]
How does the time difference (we are East coasters) affect planning?
The biggest thing you will need to be aware of is that Arizona and Utah may actually not be in the time zones you think they are. My own family took a trip to almost that exact part of the world at that exact time, with Nevada thrown in; and I think the problem we ran into was that going from Nevada across to either Utah or Arizona put us into the Mountain Time zone, but then crossing from Utah into Arizona (I think?) made the time change again, because one of those states actually doesn't observe daylight savings time. And this was all the more complicated when we went to Lake Powell/Glen Canyon, because that straddled the border of Utah and Arizona.
The reason I'm being so vague is because we were all thoroughly confused by all the time changes ourselves as we travelled, and it actually lead to a moment where my father plaintively stopped a park ranger at Lake Powell and asked "what time is it in the exact spot where I am standing right now?"
So, yeah, study up the time zones and what they are depending on where in the world you would be at any given point - not just for the planning, but so that you don't go totally nuts.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 2:22 PM on May 25, 2016 [3 favorites]
My sister went onto the Skywalk and was disappointed because the view is not that much greater than from the viewpoints in the park, and you're not allowed to take photos (you can't take your phone with you!). She said it was way too expensive for a few minutes on a glass bridge.
posted by amf at 2:27 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by amf at 2:27 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
I feel disloyal saying this, as I did have a nice time there, but I would not consider Painted Desert a must-see relative to the other places on the list.
posted by chimpsonfilm at 2:34 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by chimpsonfilm at 2:34 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
An old house in Flagstaff. But it takes planning because the tours are not as frequent as expected. We had fun just wandering outside.
posted by notned at 2:50 PM on May 25, 2016
posted by notned at 2:50 PM on May 25, 2016
Arizona doesn't observe Daylight Savings Time, so you really do have to check to determine what time it is. I lived in AZ for decades and still got confused on a cross-country trip.
Do the South Rim like most folks, you don't really need to do the North Rim too. The train seems like a good option.
From Flagstaff, it's less than an hour to Sedona, go via Oak Creek Canyon, it's an absolutely gorgeous route through red rocks. In Sedona, Slide Rock is fun, and there are kajillion Vortex-related Woo things to check out.
Down 10, towards Phoenix is Montezuma's Castle. It's fantastic and really worth doing.
If you're driving from California to Florida, then it's worth it to go through the Painted Desert. Is it worth it to detour hundreds of miles out of your way? Not really. It's fantastic, and I'm glad I did it, but unless I'm driving cross-country again, I'm not going out of my way to see it.
Use Trip Advisor to vet cheap motels. I like Hampton Inns, but we had great experiences with Motel 6 when we did our cross country drive and now they're all upgraded. But again use Trip Advisor.
I would only drive about 5 hours per day, and I'd do it in the late afternoon. Driving across desert later in the day, into evening is much cooler and easier to take than in the noon-day sun. But you do miss out on some scenery that way. We arrived at our hotel at around 8-ish (sundown). We'd grab dinner and relax in the room. Then up early to do sightseeing and lunch. Then back on the road at around 3. What would be good with kids is to stay in places with pools so they can nap in the car during the drive, then wake up for dinner, throw them in the pool for an hour so they'll wear themselves out and sleep well.
One fun thing is to get a National Park Passport, you can get a paper one or they have an App.
Another fun thing to do is to make a custom Road-Trip Bingo card.
Things you will need plenty of:
1. Sunscreen. Slather it on an hour before you go outdoors!
2. Water. Take three times as much as you think you'll consume. Then replenish the supply frequently. You need a LOT of water in a dry climate.
3. Bug Spray.
Also, do detour for the strange and wonderful. Where else will you see Turquoise McDonald's Arches?
I also make it a point to stop for ice cream. Your call on that one.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 2:57 PM on May 25, 2016 [3 favorites]
Do the South Rim like most folks, you don't really need to do the North Rim too. The train seems like a good option.
From Flagstaff, it's less than an hour to Sedona, go via Oak Creek Canyon, it's an absolutely gorgeous route through red rocks. In Sedona, Slide Rock is fun, and there are kajillion Vortex-related Woo things to check out.
Down 10, towards Phoenix is Montezuma's Castle. It's fantastic and really worth doing.
If you're driving from California to Florida, then it's worth it to go through the Painted Desert. Is it worth it to detour hundreds of miles out of your way? Not really. It's fantastic, and I'm glad I did it, but unless I'm driving cross-country again, I'm not going out of my way to see it.
Use Trip Advisor to vet cheap motels. I like Hampton Inns, but we had great experiences with Motel 6 when we did our cross country drive and now they're all upgraded. But again use Trip Advisor.
I would only drive about 5 hours per day, and I'd do it in the late afternoon. Driving across desert later in the day, into evening is much cooler and easier to take than in the noon-day sun. But you do miss out on some scenery that way. We arrived at our hotel at around 8-ish (sundown). We'd grab dinner and relax in the room. Then up early to do sightseeing and lunch. Then back on the road at around 3. What would be good with kids is to stay in places with pools so they can nap in the car during the drive, then wake up for dinner, throw them in the pool for an hour so they'll wear themselves out and sleep well.
One fun thing is to get a National Park Passport, you can get a paper one or they have an App.
Another fun thing to do is to make a custom Road-Trip Bingo card.
Things you will need plenty of:
1. Sunscreen. Slather it on an hour before you go outdoors!
2. Water. Take three times as much as you think you'll consume. Then replenish the supply frequently. You need a LOT of water in a dry climate.
3. Bug Spray.
Also, do detour for the strange and wonderful. Where else will you see Turquoise McDonald's Arches?
I also make it a point to stop for ice cream. Your call on that one.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 2:57 PM on May 25, 2016 [3 favorites]
Keep in mind that you're East Coasters AND flat-landers. Some of those locations are pretty high up, with extremely high solar radiation levels, and dry as a bone. Consider camel packs for everyone because you'll drink far more water than normal, and major physical sun protection such as hats, sun shirts, and also major sunblock. Be prepared to take things slow if it appears that a family member is sensitive to the heat and/or elevation.
Many hotels in those areas will be booked already for the summer season. Probably not Flagstaff since it's mostly a ski town.
Petrified Forest is kinda meh for me - because just rocks. The Williams train is sorta quaint and pretty and they have the cool staged things before the train leaves.
Consider taking the kids to Slide Rock in Oak Creek Canyon while you're in Sedona. Def. the Elote Cafe and ditch the kids and go to Renee's for a fantastic dining experience. There's also Jerome, which is an old mining town now full of artsy things (and a few good bars like the Spirit Room). You can stay in the hotel even.
posted by answergrape at 3:28 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
Many hotels in those areas will be booked already for the summer season. Probably not Flagstaff since it's mostly a ski town.
Petrified Forest is kinda meh for me - because just rocks. The Williams train is sorta quaint and pretty and they have the cool staged things before the train leaves.
Consider taking the kids to Slide Rock in Oak Creek Canyon while you're in Sedona. Def. the Elote Cafe and ditch the kids and go to Renee's for a fantastic dining experience. There's also Jerome, which is an old mining town now full of artsy things (and a few good bars like the Spirit Room). You can stay in the hotel even.
posted by answergrape at 3:28 PM on May 25, 2016 [2 favorites]
I would go to the Escalante Petrified Forest State Park (and walk the full loop trail) over the Petrified Forest National Park. My treks to each were 20 some-odd years apart, but my memory of the National Park is that the State Park is more awesome color concentrated into a smaller area.
posted by straw at 4:13 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by straw at 4:13 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
We did an RV trip through here with an 8 and a 6 year old last year.
We'd like to see the Grand Canyon (North Rim and South Rim), Bryce, Zion, Flagstaff, and Sedona. Given our arrival in and departure from Flagstaff, in what order should we visit these places?
I would do: Flagstaff, Page AZ (an addition and a great stop for Antelope canyon etc), Bryce, Zion, North Rim, South Rim, Sedona. Having Sedona at the end puts whatever kind of 'luxury' you want there, whether it's a hotel with a nice pool, a water park, etc.
Also seconding best friends animal sanctuary mentioned above.
* Is the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert a must-see?
Petrified Forest is not. It's way out of your way and will hold your kids attention for half an hour.
* Suggestions for kids' activities in Sedona?
Seconding Slide Rock park.
posted by true at 4:56 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
We'd like to see the Grand Canyon (North Rim and South Rim), Bryce, Zion, Flagstaff, and Sedona. Given our arrival in and departure from Flagstaff, in what order should we visit these places?
I would do: Flagstaff, Page AZ (an addition and a great stop for Antelope canyon etc), Bryce, Zion, North Rim, South Rim, Sedona. Having Sedona at the end puts whatever kind of 'luxury' you want there, whether it's a hotel with a nice pool, a water park, etc.
Also seconding best friends animal sanctuary mentioned above.
* Is the Petrified Forest/Painted Desert a must-see?
Petrified Forest is not. It's way out of your way and will hold your kids attention for half an hour.
* Suggestions for kids' activities in Sedona?
Seconding Slide Rock park.
posted by true at 4:56 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
From 1.5-Mile Rest House on the Bright Angel Trail there is an 1100-plus foot ascent on the return to the canyon rim. It's (relatively) easy to go downhill, and then when you turn around you're looking at an unavoidable ascent. I would advise against it for a family with a six-year-old that didn't have any experience with similar elevation gains in a similarly hot climate.
I am deeply in love with Petrified Forest, but it may not be great for a six-year-old.
I have heard very few positive things about the skywalk. I would skip it.
If anyone requires ankle support, boots are a good idea. Whatever footwear you choose, it should be broken in but still have good, grippy soles. Brand new boots are a good way to get blisters. 3-year-old basketball shoes provide inferior traction. But lots of people are happy in good low-top cross trainers.
Coming from the East Coast can be helpful: Arizona generally does not do daylight savings time. (Navajo Nation is the exception.) This means the sun rises early, and the day heats up early. Being able to wake up early helps you to beat the heat. Take advantage of jet lag and wake up as early as possible.
Drink plenty of water, but drink plenty of electrolytes too. Just sweating in a hot car for a few days in a row can cause problems if you don't replace lost salts.
Stay overnight if taking the train. If driving to/from Flagstaff, do a loop with Highways 89 and 64 to see Desert View Tower on your way to or from the village area. Beware of insane drivers making ridiculous passing maneuvers on Highway 64 (especially late afternoon, when tardy maniac tourists attempt to make it to the canyon before sunset). Highway 89 north of Flag also has its fair share of oh-my-god-did-they-really-just-do-that drivers.
There are very few decent dining options around the park. A picnic lunch is going to beat most options in the park. El Tovar is decent but sometimes hit-or-miss for breakfast, okay for lunch and dinner, but pricey. Bright Angel Bikes near the visitor center sells pre-made sandwiches that are at least reliably okay.
Spend at least a few minutes at Tusayan Ruins Museum on East Rim drive if you wind up doing the loop from Flagstaff. If it's not your cup of tea, it's easy to bail out quickly, but I think it's a really fantastic and unfortunately overlooked attraction within the park.
posted by compartment at 7:28 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
I am deeply in love with Petrified Forest, but it may not be great for a six-year-old.
I have heard very few positive things about the skywalk. I would skip it.
If anyone requires ankle support, boots are a good idea. Whatever footwear you choose, it should be broken in but still have good, grippy soles. Brand new boots are a good way to get blisters. 3-year-old basketball shoes provide inferior traction. But lots of people are happy in good low-top cross trainers.
Coming from the East Coast can be helpful: Arizona generally does not do daylight savings time. (Navajo Nation is the exception.) This means the sun rises early, and the day heats up early. Being able to wake up early helps you to beat the heat. Take advantage of jet lag and wake up as early as possible.
Drink plenty of water, but drink plenty of electrolytes too. Just sweating in a hot car for a few days in a row can cause problems if you don't replace lost salts.
Stay overnight if taking the train. If driving to/from Flagstaff, do a loop with Highways 89 and 64 to see Desert View Tower on your way to or from the village area. Beware of insane drivers making ridiculous passing maneuvers on Highway 64 (especially late afternoon, when tardy maniac tourists attempt to make it to the canyon before sunset). Highway 89 north of Flag also has its fair share of oh-my-god-did-they-really-just-do-that drivers.
There are very few decent dining options around the park. A picnic lunch is going to beat most options in the park. El Tovar is decent but sometimes hit-or-miss for breakfast, okay for lunch and dinner, but pricey. Bright Angel Bikes near the visitor center sells pre-made sandwiches that are at least reliably okay.
Spend at least a few minutes at Tusayan Ruins Museum on East Rim drive if you wind up doing the loop from Flagstaff. If it's not your cup of tea, it's easy to bail out quickly, but I think it's a really fantastic and unfortunately overlooked attraction within the park.
posted by compartment at 7:28 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
My abiding memory of a night in a motel in Flagstaff was a very uncomfortable bed, not at all helped by locomotives basting their horns at every level crossing throughout the small hours of the night.
If you stay in Flagstaff, make sure you're a LONG way from the railway.
posted by HiroProtagonist at 8:01 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
If you stay in Flagstaff, make sure you're a LONG way from the railway.
posted by HiroProtagonist at 8:01 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]
You have a doable trip here, and a good amount of time to do it in. If you don't have one, BUY A NATIONAL PARKS PASS. I'll give you locales to search for motels in, but you'll have to actually dig up the motels and do the legwork on availability etc. since this is busy season, big time.
OK, so you get into Flagstaff. The Grand Canyon South Rim will be your first stop. Unless it's before noon, or unless you have lodging lined up at the park or Tusayan, I wouldn't drive to the park the first day. You can find lodging in Flagstaff or in Williams, 30 miles to the west. For lodging if you want to stay in the park area the first and/or second night, you can check at grandcanyonlodges.com (or call, sometimes a real human can find things that aren't showing up online) or you can contact any of the several motels in Tusayan, just south of the park entrance. Be forewarned that restaurants in the area are going to be more expensive than you're used to, since everything has to be hauled in a long distance. The McDonalds there is eye-poppingly expensive. You may want to consider packing a cooler with groceries in Flagstaff.
In the park - I have hiked the Canyon three times in the past year and I don't know that I'd suggest taking a six year old down Bright Angel, even to Mile And A Half Resthouse. That stretch of trail is very steep, and the altitude is going to make this an even tougher slog uphill. Even with my hiking legs, that stretch is really tough. But here's something - Bright Angel follows a walled in canyon until it gets to Indian Garden, and the view doesn't change much. What you could do is take the free shuttle bus to Yaki Point/South Kaibab trailhead, and hike down 3/4 mile to Ooh Aah Point. (Bring water!) Still steep, but a lot shorter, and you get a hell of a view for the payoff. Also at the park, you can take the shuttle buses on the west rim to several viewpoints there, and they're worth it. You can also take the east rim drive, which is about 25 miles each way, to a bunch of viewpoints and the Desert View Watchtower. (You can also save this for later... I'll point that out in a bit.) Bring refillable water bottles - they don't sell bottled water in the park but they do have many places where they encourage you to fill water bottles. If you can catch a ranger program, these are great for the kids.
OK, so you're done at the South Rim after a day or two. Head south to Williams and then west on I-40. You have two choices here. You can stay on I-40 to Kingman. Or you can jump off 40 at Seligman (stop at the Snow Cap Drive Inn if it's still open) and then you can take the longest remaining stretch of Route 66 to Kingman. You can look into Grand Canyon Caverns online - you'll pass it on 66 but you'll have to decide if you want to spend the money, which can add up fast on five people.
At this point in the trip, I'll say this - SKIP THE SKYWALK. It's very expensive, will eat up most of a day, and isn't going to be life-changing or anything.
At Kingman you head north on US 93. This will take you to Hoover Dam, if you'd like to visit, or past it on the new bridge, which is an engineering marvel. Soon after, you'll get to Las Vegas. If you want, spend a day there, or a night at least. Head north/east on I-15. I-15 will take you into Utah and a half hour or so after St. George, you'll ge to the turnoff for Zion. If you didn't stay in Vegas, St. George may offer some lodging options if needed. Zion will take some time to drive through with the traffic, so allow time for that and stop and see the place anyway. After you leave Zion (or if you want to stay in the area to spend another day there) there are motels in Kanab and Panguitch. Kanab books up fast so don't wait too long to reserve a room... and it's priced accordingly. There may be options outside Bryce as well in Tropic.
After - or before - Bryce Canyon, drive Utah 12. This is an extremely scenic highway. If time permits, and you want to go, Capitol Reef National Park is out that way as well.
Once you're done with that area, head on back to Kanab. From there, you're two hours from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Lodging can be difficult there since it books up fast, but it doesn't hurt to call, or you can try Jacob Lake or Kaibab Lodge. Arizona 67 from Jacob Lake to the park is fantastic. The North Rim is a lot less crowded than the South Rim, but it's also a smaller area and no rim drives like on the South.
After you're done with the North Rim, head east on 89A out of Jacob Lake. This will take you to Marble Canyon, and Lee's Ferry is nearby, considered the start of the Grand Canyon. Marble Canyon is pretty and you can walk out on the old bridge 500 feet over the river. You'll also have a great view of the Vermillion Cliffs. When you meet back up with US89, Page is only 20 minutes north. There you can see Glen Canyon Dam (which is 25 feet shorter than Hoover, but it's actually a larger structure, and see Lake Powell, which is beautiful with its sandstone walls and cliffs. South of Page you can see Horseshoe Bend as well. Heading south on 89, you can turn at Cameron and head back to the South Rim if you like, especially if you didn't do the east rim drive.
Once you get back in to Flagstaff, you can head south on 89A to Sedona. This will take you through Oak Creek Canyon and that's a great drive in itself. Sedona is pretty, but it is very tourist trap-py as well.
So there's a lot you can do there, and there's 16-17 days to do it in. Mix and match to fit available time and lodging, and desired time at destinations. But you can make a nice loop out of all this.
Hydrate hydrate hydrate. Cut down on soda and alcoholic beverages on this trip, because you will be at high altitude the entire time. You'll be at elevations ranging from about 5000 feet to 8000 feet. You'll dehydrate much quiker than you think here and that can lead to altitude sickness, so stay hydrated! Also, bring sunscreen and use it liberally. Sunburns happen very fast in the high desert. Wide brimmed hats are recommended.
posted by azpenguin at 11:07 PM on May 25, 2016 [5 favorites]
OK, so you get into Flagstaff. The Grand Canyon South Rim will be your first stop. Unless it's before noon, or unless you have lodging lined up at the park or Tusayan, I wouldn't drive to the park the first day. You can find lodging in Flagstaff or in Williams, 30 miles to the west. For lodging if you want to stay in the park area the first and/or second night, you can check at grandcanyonlodges.com (or call, sometimes a real human can find things that aren't showing up online) or you can contact any of the several motels in Tusayan, just south of the park entrance. Be forewarned that restaurants in the area are going to be more expensive than you're used to, since everything has to be hauled in a long distance. The McDonalds there is eye-poppingly expensive. You may want to consider packing a cooler with groceries in Flagstaff.
In the park - I have hiked the Canyon three times in the past year and I don't know that I'd suggest taking a six year old down Bright Angel, even to Mile And A Half Resthouse. That stretch of trail is very steep, and the altitude is going to make this an even tougher slog uphill. Even with my hiking legs, that stretch is really tough. But here's something - Bright Angel follows a walled in canyon until it gets to Indian Garden, and the view doesn't change much. What you could do is take the free shuttle bus to Yaki Point/South Kaibab trailhead, and hike down 3/4 mile to Ooh Aah Point. (Bring water!) Still steep, but a lot shorter, and you get a hell of a view for the payoff. Also at the park, you can take the shuttle buses on the west rim to several viewpoints there, and they're worth it. You can also take the east rim drive, which is about 25 miles each way, to a bunch of viewpoints and the Desert View Watchtower. (You can also save this for later... I'll point that out in a bit.) Bring refillable water bottles - they don't sell bottled water in the park but they do have many places where they encourage you to fill water bottles. If you can catch a ranger program, these are great for the kids.
OK, so you're done at the South Rim after a day or two. Head south to Williams and then west on I-40. You have two choices here. You can stay on I-40 to Kingman. Or you can jump off 40 at Seligman (stop at the Snow Cap Drive Inn if it's still open) and then you can take the longest remaining stretch of Route 66 to Kingman. You can look into Grand Canyon Caverns online - you'll pass it on 66 but you'll have to decide if you want to spend the money, which can add up fast on five people.
At this point in the trip, I'll say this - SKIP THE SKYWALK. It's very expensive, will eat up most of a day, and isn't going to be life-changing or anything.
At Kingman you head north on US 93. This will take you to Hoover Dam, if you'd like to visit, or past it on the new bridge, which is an engineering marvel. Soon after, you'll get to Las Vegas. If you want, spend a day there, or a night at least. Head north/east on I-15. I-15 will take you into Utah and a half hour or so after St. George, you'll ge to the turnoff for Zion. If you didn't stay in Vegas, St. George may offer some lodging options if needed. Zion will take some time to drive through with the traffic, so allow time for that and stop and see the place anyway. After you leave Zion (or if you want to stay in the area to spend another day there) there are motels in Kanab and Panguitch. Kanab books up fast so don't wait too long to reserve a room... and it's priced accordingly. There may be options outside Bryce as well in Tropic.
After - or before - Bryce Canyon, drive Utah 12. This is an extremely scenic highway. If time permits, and you want to go, Capitol Reef National Park is out that way as well.
Once you're done with that area, head on back to Kanab. From there, you're two hours from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. Lodging can be difficult there since it books up fast, but it doesn't hurt to call, or you can try Jacob Lake or Kaibab Lodge. Arizona 67 from Jacob Lake to the park is fantastic. The North Rim is a lot less crowded than the South Rim, but it's also a smaller area and no rim drives like on the South.
After you're done with the North Rim, head east on 89A out of Jacob Lake. This will take you to Marble Canyon, and Lee's Ferry is nearby, considered the start of the Grand Canyon. Marble Canyon is pretty and you can walk out on the old bridge 500 feet over the river. You'll also have a great view of the Vermillion Cliffs. When you meet back up with US89, Page is only 20 minutes north. There you can see Glen Canyon Dam (which is 25 feet shorter than Hoover, but it's actually a larger structure, and see Lake Powell, which is beautiful with its sandstone walls and cliffs. South of Page you can see Horseshoe Bend as well. Heading south on 89, you can turn at Cameron and head back to the South Rim if you like, especially if you didn't do the east rim drive.
Once you get back in to Flagstaff, you can head south on 89A to Sedona. This will take you through Oak Creek Canyon and that's a great drive in itself. Sedona is pretty, but it is very tourist trap-py as well.
So there's a lot you can do there, and there's 16-17 days to do it in. Mix and match to fit available time and lodging, and desired time at destinations. But you can make a nice loop out of all this.
Hydrate hydrate hydrate. Cut down on soda and alcoholic beverages on this trip, because you will be at high altitude the entire time. You'll be at elevations ranging from about 5000 feet to 8000 feet. You'll dehydrate much quiker than you think here and that can lead to altitude sickness, so stay hydrated! Also, bring sunscreen and use it liberally. Sunburns happen very fast in the high desert. Wide brimmed hats are recommended.
posted by azpenguin at 11:07 PM on May 25, 2016 [5 favorites]
I live in Flagstaff. As for hotels here, most will be pretty close to the railroad tracks because the tracks are parallel to Route 66. However, trains no longer blow their horns when coming through town- the city passed an ordinance against it a few years back. If you do hear a horn you can be pretty sure someone's on the tracks and close to being hit. Fortunately, that doesn't happen regularly. As long as you stay two blocks or so away from the tracks you won't hear anything. That being said, I'd recommend checking out Air B&B or VRBO. We're a tourist town so there's plenty of listings!
I've never been to Bearizona myself, but I've heard a lot of good things about it. Another fun thing to do here is visiting Lowell Observatory. Lots of history (it's where Pluto was discovered!) and it's great for kids. Just walking around downtown Flagstaff can be fun, we have lots of cool local stores (like the one I work at!) and restaurants. There are a few places that rent bikes or do bike tours if you're into that sort of thing. Oh, and we're home to the highest peak in Arizona, which has a ski resort right below it that happens to have a working summer chairlift and excellent french fries.
For restaurant recommendations, I like Salsa Brava a lot- I always get their Navajo tacos, which are hard to find outside the southwest. For breakfast, Brandy's is great. (I just realized both restaurants were on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives; but they're actually both very good...)
Like previous comments have said, the kids don't necessarily need hiking boots, but definitely make sure they wear shoes with decent ankle support and traction. And drink lots of water, it's very very dry out west and the sun will be blazing hot everywhere you go. Get a good sunscreen and constantly apply it- that's what I have to do every day if I don't want to get burnt to a crisp.
Oh, and I agree with other posters that OK Creek Canyon is a must-see. I'd recommend going in the middle of the week, if that's possible- it's pretty packed on weekends with tourists from Phoenix. My favorite trail is West Fork. Make sure to avoid poison oak, they have signs showing what it looks like at the trailhead. Stop at Indian Gardens for lunch, their food is delicious, they sell a few unusual souvenirs, and their back garden is beautiful in the summer.
posted by mollywas at 1:51 PM on May 26, 2016 [1 favorite]
I've never been to Bearizona myself, but I've heard a lot of good things about it. Another fun thing to do here is visiting Lowell Observatory. Lots of history (it's where Pluto was discovered!) and it's great for kids. Just walking around downtown Flagstaff can be fun, we have lots of cool local stores (like the one I work at!) and restaurants. There are a few places that rent bikes or do bike tours if you're into that sort of thing. Oh, and we're home to the highest peak in Arizona, which has a ski resort right below it that happens to have a working summer chairlift and excellent french fries.
For restaurant recommendations, I like Salsa Brava a lot- I always get their Navajo tacos, which are hard to find outside the southwest. For breakfast, Brandy's is great. (I just realized both restaurants were on Diners, Drive-ins, and Dives; but they're actually both very good...)
Like previous comments have said, the kids don't necessarily need hiking boots, but definitely make sure they wear shoes with decent ankle support and traction. And drink lots of water, it's very very dry out west and the sun will be blazing hot everywhere you go. Get a good sunscreen and constantly apply it- that's what I have to do every day if I don't want to get burnt to a crisp.
Oh, and I agree with other posters that OK Creek Canyon is a must-see. I'd recommend going in the middle of the week, if that's possible- it's pretty packed on weekends with tourists from Phoenix. My favorite trail is West Fork. Make sure to avoid poison oak, they have signs showing what it looks like at the trailhead. Stop at Indian Gardens for lunch, their food is delicious, they sell a few unusual souvenirs, and their back garden is beautiful in the summer.
posted by mollywas at 1:51 PM on May 26, 2016 [1 favorite]
AZ penguin has a great list and so does mollywas.
That time of year is the hottest and brightest on the colorado plateau. The LOWEST elevation you are going to be at is about 5000' in Sedona. The COOLEST daytime highs will be in the 90's and several of your locations will be 100+ for several hours everyday (including Sedona). At night the temperature can easily drop into the 40's in two-three hours of sundown from 100 degrees. Combine this with high elevation, rapid elevation changes (3000 feet in 30 minutes is not unusual on most of the highways across the southwest) and dry, hot air and you can get really, really sick. If you are prone to it elevation sickness is nasty and can ruin your trip. My recommendations:
Take your time, the Colorado Plateau is beautiful and worth seeing but it is BIG. The area is larger than most states in the mid Atlantic and new England. The county Flagstaff is in is Coconino and it is larger than Connecticut all by itself and has a year around population of around 125,000. So people can be scarce and so are gas stations.
If you can, spend more time in Jerome, not Sedona. Sedona is full of woo and pricey tourist traps. Jerome is an authentic ghost town with abandoned mines, unique architecture and about 20 degrees cooler.
Water, lots of water. If you aren't peeing regularly, you aren't drinking enough. And you are almost certainly not drinking enough. WATER.
HATS. I am pale and fair and will get sunburned in about 15 minutes in the noonday sun in June in Flagstaff. Their isn't any air between you and the Sun and it matters. HATS and sunscreen if you are going to be out in it. I have found a white hat/cap and a n(light colored) long sleeve thin cotton t shirt with shorts are much more comfortable than anything else.
Eat daringly. I miss the food in the southwest more than anything else since moving to Oregon. Somethings just aren't the same (oh How I miss the taste of Fresh Hatch Green Chile's).
posted by bartonlong at 2:05 PM on May 26, 2016 [2 favorites]
That time of year is the hottest and brightest on the colorado plateau. The LOWEST elevation you are going to be at is about 5000' in Sedona. The COOLEST daytime highs will be in the 90's and several of your locations will be 100+ for several hours everyday (including Sedona). At night the temperature can easily drop into the 40's in two-three hours of sundown from 100 degrees. Combine this with high elevation, rapid elevation changes (3000 feet in 30 minutes is not unusual on most of the highways across the southwest) and dry, hot air and you can get really, really sick. If you are prone to it elevation sickness is nasty and can ruin your trip. My recommendations:
Take your time, the Colorado Plateau is beautiful and worth seeing but it is BIG. The area is larger than most states in the mid Atlantic and new England. The county Flagstaff is in is Coconino and it is larger than Connecticut all by itself and has a year around population of around 125,000. So people can be scarce and so are gas stations.
If you can, spend more time in Jerome, not Sedona. Sedona is full of woo and pricey tourist traps. Jerome is an authentic ghost town with abandoned mines, unique architecture and about 20 degrees cooler.
Water, lots of water. If you aren't peeing regularly, you aren't drinking enough. And you are almost certainly not drinking enough. WATER.
HATS. I am pale and fair and will get sunburned in about 15 minutes in the noonday sun in June in Flagstaff. Their isn't any air between you and the Sun and it matters. HATS and sunscreen if you are going to be out in it. I have found a white hat/cap and a n(light colored) long sleeve thin cotton t shirt with shorts are much more comfortable than anything else.
Eat daringly. I miss the food in the southwest more than anything else since moving to Oregon. Somethings just aren't the same (oh How I miss the taste of Fresh Hatch Green Chile's).
posted by bartonlong at 2:05 PM on May 26, 2016 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: My friend sends her thanks to all who have answered!
posted by MonkeyToes at 5:42 PM on May 26, 2016
posted by MonkeyToes at 5:42 PM on May 26, 2016
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by theora55 at 1:39 PM on May 25, 2016 [1 favorite]