Three Men in a Longship (To Say Nothing of the Dog)
May 3, 2016 9:35 PM Subscribe
Looking for information for an upcoming summer trip to Scandinavia.
My dad retired and he’s always wanted to take my brother and me to Europe, so we decided to go to Scandinavia this August.
Our general plan is to
1) Fly from NYC to Stockholm and spend a few days there
2) Rent a car and drive to Copenhagen. Spend a few days in Copenhagen
3) Take a train up Oslo, spend a day or two in Oslo
4) Spend a day or so fjording around and then fly back out of Oslo to NYC
Looking for:
Hotel recommendations or areas to look at?
What to do in each place? We have some idea, but what would you recommend?
What to bring that I might not think about?
Regarding the car rental, is it better to drop it off in Malmö and then take the train over to
Copenhagen? Or is it easy enough (and relatively similar in cost) to just drive to Copenhagen?
What else should I know?
Thanks!
My dad retired and he’s always wanted to take my brother and me to Europe, so we decided to go to Scandinavia this August.
Our general plan is to
1) Fly from NYC to Stockholm and spend a few days there
2) Rent a car and drive to Copenhagen. Spend a few days in Copenhagen
3) Take a train up Oslo, spend a day or two in Oslo
4) Spend a day or so fjording around and then fly back out of Oslo to NYC
Looking for:
Hotel recommendations or areas to look at?
What to do in each place? We have some idea, but what would you recommend?
What to bring that I might not think about?
Regarding the car rental, is it better to drop it off in Malmö and then take the train over to
Copenhagen? Or is it easy enough (and relatively similar in cost) to just drive to Copenhagen?
What else should I know?
Thanks!
The drive from Stockholm to Copenhagen is not super-exiting. Unless you have planned something along the way that is easier with a car, I would recommend you fly or take the train. If you choose the train you will probably get there quicker, as the train goes from city centre to city centre and takes around five hours. Plus a train is a lot more comfortable.
posted by Harald74 at 1:19 AM on May 4, 2016
posted by Harald74 at 1:19 AM on May 4, 2016
On the stretch from Copenhagen to Oslo it's possible to travel by ferry. A night sailing means that you can relax and have your dinner onboard, and the next morning you can disembark in Oslo, refreshed rather than exhausted from airport stress.
posted by Harald74 at 1:22 AM on May 4, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by Harald74 at 1:22 AM on May 4, 2016 [1 favorite]
The train ride from Oslo to Bergen is well worth it, with an FPP with a preview here.
The best fjords are all in the west country anyway, so if you can book a return flight from Bergen that might be feasible?
And an alternative is disembarking the Bergen train in Myrdal and taking the museum railway down to Flåm, where an express boat goes to Bergen. I've done this myself and would recommend it. (Or in reverse, of course).
posted by Harald74 at 1:32 AM on May 4, 2016 [3 favorites]
The best fjords are all in the west country anyway, so if you can book a return flight from Bergen that might be feasible?
And an alternative is disembarking the Bergen train in Myrdal and taking the museum railway down to Flåm, where an express boat goes to Bergen. I've done this myself and would recommend it. (Or in reverse, of course).
posted by Harald74 at 1:32 AM on May 4, 2016 [3 favorites]
Regarding things to see, if you're interested in history I second the recommendation for the viking ship museum in Oslo. The Wasa Museum in Stockholm is also good.
If you're interested in art the Munch Museum and the Vigeland sculptures in The Frogner Park (free admission!) in Oslo is worth a look.
In Copenhagen I would recommend a visit to the Tivoli Gardens even if you're not usually into theme parks and such. It is (or at least was, I haven't been in years) quite relaxing and atmospheric, with good dining opportunities.
posted by Harald74 at 1:43 AM on May 4, 2016
If you're interested in art the Munch Museum and the Vigeland sculptures in The Frogner Park (free admission!) in Oslo is worth a look.
In Copenhagen I would recommend a visit to the Tivoli Gardens even if you're not usually into theme parks and such. It is (or at least was, I haven't been in years) quite relaxing and atmospheric, with good dining opportunities.
posted by Harald74 at 1:43 AM on May 4, 2016
I would fly from Stockholm to Denmark. It's be quicker, you won't miss out on much and you'd still need to go through ID control if you travel by train from Malmo to Copenhagen.
If you are interested in history, the National Museum in Copenhagen has an amazing pre-history section which is not to be missed. It is one of the best in Europe, in my opinion. The Viking ship museum in Roskilde (a short train ride from Copenhagen) is good, but I'd choose the one in Norway. Instead, I'd suggest taking the train to Slagelse for the Trelleborg Viking fortress.
In Copenhagen, I'd suggest taking one of the canal boat trips. I lived in Copenhagen for 12 years & I'd go on one of these tours every year. Fantastic way to see the city. Tivoli Gardens at night. Also, don't miss out on fresh baked goods - I recommend the Sct Peders Bakery in inner Copenhagen which goes back to the 13th century. Their cinnamon swirls are fabulous.
And I second getting the ferry to Oslo. It's a really nice overnight trip. It's also a way of connecting with how important sailing & the seas are to Scandinavians.
posted by kariebookish at 5:17 AM on May 4, 2016 [3 favorites]
If you are interested in history, the National Museum in Copenhagen has an amazing pre-history section which is not to be missed. It is one of the best in Europe, in my opinion. The Viking ship museum in Roskilde (a short train ride from Copenhagen) is good, but I'd choose the one in Norway. Instead, I'd suggest taking the train to Slagelse for the Trelleborg Viking fortress.
In Copenhagen, I'd suggest taking one of the canal boat trips. I lived in Copenhagen for 12 years & I'd go on one of these tours every year. Fantastic way to see the city. Tivoli Gardens at night. Also, don't miss out on fresh baked goods - I recommend the Sct Peders Bakery in inner Copenhagen which goes back to the 13th century. Their cinnamon swirls are fabulous.
And I second getting the ferry to Oslo. It's a really nice overnight trip. It's also a way of connecting with how important sailing & the seas are to Scandinavians.
posted by kariebookish at 5:17 AM on May 4, 2016 [3 favorites]
Forgot to mention that you need to pre-book any of the really, really fancy restaurants in Copenhagen (like NOMA).
posted by kariebookish at 5:19 AM on May 4, 2016
posted by kariebookish at 5:19 AM on May 4, 2016
When you are in Oslo, you should eat at Ekeberg Restaurant. It's easy to get to with a train (the stop is called Ekeberg). It's just 10 minutes from Sentralstasjon (Central station) and you get a view of the entire city.
You could also rent bikes and bike around the city, you could bike to bygdøy, which is where all the museums are located and definitely eat some softis (soft ice cream) on aker brygge!
I also always bring my guests to hollmenkollen to look at the ski jump as well as walk around the mountain. In the summer you can take a zipline down the ski jump. When you are about done with Oslo, I suggest taking the train from Oslo to Flåm. Afterwards you can take a boat from Flåm to Bergen, and then it's easy to fly anywhere from Bergen.
posted by Dooney at 5:23 AM on May 4, 2016
You could also rent bikes and bike around the city, you could bike to bygdøy, which is where all the museums are located and definitely eat some softis (soft ice cream) on aker brygge!
I also always bring my guests to hollmenkollen to look at the ski jump as well as walk around the mountain. In the summer you can take a zipline down the ski jump. When you are about done with Oslo, I suggest taking the train from Oslo to Flåm. Afterwards you can take a boat from Flåm to Bergen, and then it's easy to fly anywhere from Bergen.
posted by Dooney at 5:23 AM on May 4, 2016
you'd still need to go through ID control if you travel by train from Malmo to Copenhagen.
No you don't, only the other way.
Regarding the car rental, is it better to drop it off in Malmö and then take the train over to Copenhagen? Or is it easy enough (and relatively similar in cost) to just drive to Copenhagen?
The bridge tolls are apparently quite steep so the train is usually considered cheaper. I would guess it's faster too, assuming things are running on time (which is not a given). But look at your one way carhire options, it might be a lot cheaper to drop the car at Cph airport rather than Malmo because the former is a more major hub. Or it might be way cheaper to drop it in Malmo and not change countries. Look at a lot of companies and weigh the options. It's very easy to get to town from the airport via train or metro so don't pay a surcharge to drop the car downtown in Copenhagen.
I'm going to Stockholm from Copenhagen in a few weeks and am flying because it's a lot cheaper that weekend but about the same overall travel time. Otherwise I'd take an SJ high speed train (which are very comfortable and convenient). Driving will be longer and one way car hires are often very expensive, that would be my last choice.
For train timetables between Malmo and Cph look here. For the long distance train start here.
Go kayaking in the archipelagos out from Stockholm. It's amazing. And do a bike tour in Cph, such a bike-friendly city.
posted by shelleycat at 8:08 AM on May 4, 2016
No you don't, only the other way.
Regarding the car rental, is it better to drop it off in Malmö and then take the train over to Copenhagen? Or is it easy enough (and relatively similar in cost) to just drive to Copenhagen?
The bridge tolls are apparently quite steep so the train is usually considered cheaper. I would guess it's faster too, assuming things are running on time (which is not a given). But look at your one way carhire options, it might be a lot cheaper to drop the car at Cph airport rather than Malmo because the former is a more major hub. Or it might be way cheaper to drop it in Malmo and not change countries. Look at a lot of companies and weigh the options. It's very easy to get to town from the airport via train or metro so don't pay a surcharge to drop the car downtown in Copenhagen.
I'm going to Stockholm from Copenhagen in a few weeks and am flying because it's a lot cheaper that weekend but about the same overall travel time. Otherwise I'd take an SJ high speed train (which are very comfortable and convenient). Driving will be longer and one way car hires are often very expensive, that would be my last choice.
For train timetables between Malmo and Cph look here. For the long distance train start here.
Go kayaking in the archipelagos out from Stockholm. It's amazing. And do a bike tour in Cph, such a bike-friendly city.
posted by shelleycat at 8:08 AM on May 4, 2016
Stockholm is so beautiful. Make sure to visit Haga park, to get a sense of the city's setting in the landscape. The theatre at Haga is amazing if you are interested in theatre history - actually you might grow an interest if you visit.
The Vasa museum is also very impressing.
There's a hotel on a boat which is not exactly 4 star, but a fun experience - don't remember the name..
I agree that the journey from Stockholm to Copenhagen is just not worth doing by car. It's interesting to get a real sense of how big and empty Sweden is, but it is also big and empty. And the food options on the way are depressing. Either plane or night-train is better.
The Guldsmeden chain of hotels is really good value, in Copenhagen maybe Babette has the best site for a short visit, but all are good.
I disagree about the Viking ship museum in Roskilde - they have a great experimental department, where they try to learn about viking age technology by replicating ships, textiles, food etc. Go there if you are interested in Vikings.
AFAIK, NOMA is fully booked till it closes at the end of summer, because it is moving to a new site. There are waiting lists. But there are also plenty restaurants in the NOMA tradition: AMASS and Relæ are at the front of my mind. Relæ has cheaper cousins, like Manfreds & Vin and Bæst. The last three restaurants are in Nørrebro, where you will also find Kiin Kiin, a Thai Michelin restaurant - this area is less known than Vesterbro and the Meat Packing District, but filled with local atmosphere, including a number of speciality beer bars and wine bars. The Assistens Cemetery is also there, where H.C. Andersson and Kierkegaard and many other famous Danes (and expat American musicians) are buried.
Like others, I suggest you sail to Oslo - it's both cheaper and nicer than the train, specially during summer. Sailing into Oslo Fjord in the morning is just magnificent. And you sail out past Kronborg, Hamlets Castle. Guldsmeden has you covered hotel-wise.
Go out to visit the Hedmark Museum in Hamar - it's about medieval Norway and very interesting and beautiful. The Opera House in Oslo is a must-see, even if you are not interested in Opera - go there for lunch. And the Viking Ship Museum, of course.
I almost forgot the Munch Museum - because its been a while since I've been there. But it is a fine collection. For a weird experience, go to the Vigelandspark.
posted by mumimor at 11:19 PM on May 4, 2016
The Vasa museum is also very impressing.
There's a hotel on a boat which is not exactly 4 star, but a fun experience - don't remember the name..
I agree that the journey from Stockholm to Copenhagen is just not worth doing by car. It's interesting to get a real sense of how big and empty Sweden is, but it is also big and empty. And the food options on the way are depressing. Either plane or night-train is better.
The Guldsmeden chain of hotels is really good value, in Copenhagen maybe Babette has the best site for a short visit, but all are good.
I disagree about the Viking ship museum in Roskilde - they have a great experimental department, where they try to learn about viking age technology by replicating ships, textiles, food etc. Go there if you are interested in Vikings.
AFAIK, NOMA is fully booked till it closes at the end of summer, because it is moving to a new site. There are waiting lists. But there are also plenty restaurants in the NOMA tradition: AMASS and Relæ are at the front of my mind. Relæ has cheaper cousins, like Manfreds & Vin and Bæst. The last three restaurants are in Nørrebro, where you will also find Kiin Kiin, a Thai Michelin restaurant - this area is less known than Vesterbro and the Meat Packing District, but filled with local atmosphere, including a number of speciality beer bars and wine bars. The Assistens Cemetery is also there, where H.C. Andersson and Kierkegaard and many other famous Danes (and expat American musicians) are buried.
Like others, I suggest you sail to Oslo - it's both cheaper and nicer than the train, specially during summer. Sailing into Oslo Fjord in the morning is just magnificent. And you sail out past Kronborg, Hamlets Castle. Guldsmeden has you covered hotel-wise.
Go out to visit the Hedmark Museum in Hamar - it's about medieval Norway and very interesting and beautiful. The Opera House in Oslo is a must-see, even if you are not interested in Opera - go there for lunch. And the Viking Ship Museum, of course.
I almost forgot the Munch Museum - because its been a while since I've been there. But it is a fine collection. For a weird experience, go to the Vigelandspark.
posted by mumimor at 11:19 PM on May 4, 2016
So I was curious and it's a public holiday in Denmark today so I have some time. So I searched for different car hire options using my go-to car hire aggregator website (Argus car hire, I use it a lot, there are others). Choosing a random day in August I get one day hire options from Stockholm Central to Kastrup Airport (the one in Copenhagen) for about €288 whereas to Malmo it's €155. I just chose the Malmo city centre option because it's small enough that you should be able to get to the train station easily regardless, but it's a bit more expensive if you limit it to just car hire locations right by the train station. It's also more expensive if you tell them you're from the US, I think because it removes some companies from the search options. Don't forget to budget in petrol.
Then looking at the Skånetrafiken website (the Swedish version of the Danish Rejseplanen I posted above), I see tickets from Malmo C to København H (the main train station in Copenhagen) for the expected price of 110 SEK each. Keeping in mind that 330 SEK = aprox €35 it's pretty clear that dropping the car in Sweden and taking the train is the winner.
But then on the same random August day I'm finding tickets on the high-speed train from Stockholm C to København H for 3 adults for about €135 total. I've taken this train, it's genuinely fast and quite a nice ride. These prices only go up over time so it's definitely worth booking as far ahead of time as possible.
posted by shelleycat at 12:17 AM on May 5, 2016
Then looking at the Skånetrafiken website (the Swedish version of the Danish Rejseplanen I posted above), I see tickets from Malmo C to København H (the main train station in Copenhagen) for the expected price of 110 SEK each. Keeping in mind that 330 SEK = aprox €35 it's pretty clear that dropping the car in Sweden and taking the train is the winner.
But then on the same random August day I'm finding tickets on the high-speed train from Stockholm C to København H for 3 adults for about €135 total. I've taken this train, it's genuinely fast and quite a nice ride. These prices only go up over time so it's definitely worth booking as far ahead of time as possible.
posted by shelleycat at 12:17 AM on May 5, 2016
Response by poster: Thanks everyone! We're driving between Stockholm and Copenhagen because my dad found some genealogy stuff related to Linköping and wanted to stop along the way. Otherwise I agree that a train would probably be better (and we may still look into that). Lots of good stuff to sort through here (and thanks shelleycat for the info on costs!)
posted by downtohisturtles at 10:47 AM on May 5, 2016
posted by downtohisturtles at 10:47 AM on May 5, 2016
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by feckless fecal fear mongering at 9:53 PM on May 3, 2016