Dresses that sit at the natural waist...where oh where to find them?
March 14, 2016 12:21 PM   Subscribe

Mefite lady-folk, save me from the fashion hell that is semi-empire waists, shapeless potato sack tunics, and shirtdresses that look like you forgot to put on pants!

Where have all the dresses gone that A) have an actual waist (looking at you, so-called "fit and flare"), and B) have one that sits at your actual waist, y'know, that place where your body gets smallest in circumference. Why have all the dresses become shapeless, unflattering, gunt-curtains? Me: 5'8", 114#, narrow hips, grown-up but not old lady. NOBODY say Modcloth, because every stupid adorable dress I've bought there sits above my waist no matter what trickery they use on the mannequin to make me buy it, and then I have to send them back with a broken heart. Even a Google search for "natural-waist dress" gets hits that sit an obvious inch or two above the model's waist.

Closest things I could find:
cute but only in navy
almost, but still sitting a smidge too high if you look closely
except with short sleeves and in a length that is above the knee but below "I forgot pants"
posted by SinAesthetic to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (33 answers total) 16 users marked this as a favorite
 
Even a Google search for "natural-waist dress" gets hits that sit an obvious inch or two above the model's waist.

Most models are taller than you by easily an inch or two, so you can't really judge where the waist hits by the stock photo. The model really should be modeling a tall size where available, but as far as I know this isn't how it's done.

Speaking of tall sizes, have you tried them? I am the same height as you and long-waisted, and I've had good luck with tall sizes for dresses and jackets, specifically from J. Crew.
posted by mama casserole at 12:28 PM on March 14, 2016 [2 favorites]


I am guessing that you either have a long torso and/or need tall sizes in dresses. If that doesn't work, you can always get a custom dress from eshakti.
posted by gumtree at 12:30 PM on March 14, 2016 [6 favorites]


Thirding that you probably need tall sizes or long torso. Boden is another company that has dresses in tall sizes - I've gotten a couple from them that were so much more comfortable because the waist hit me in the right spot.
posted by mogget at 12:34 PM on March 14, 2016


Response by poster: Sorry to thread-sit, but I usually wear an American size 0 and in almost every place tall usually starts at 2 or 4. :(
posted by SinAesthetic at 12:34 PM on March 14, 2016


I ordered a bunch of dresses on eshakti that looked like they had high/empire waists, but then when they came, it turned out they were sort of styled too look that way, but actually the waists were at the waist. I actually do need high waists, so I returned them, but you might like them.

Here are some examples of dresses that on quick-look sort of seem to have high waists, but on closer inspection don't. 1, 2, 3.
posted by If only I had a penguin... at 12:36 PM on March 14, 2016 [2 favorites]


e-shakti will custom make the dress to your measurements and style preferences (e.g. sleave style, skirt length, collar style.
posted by If only I had a penguin... at 12:36 PM on March 14, 2016


one that sits at your actual waist, y'know, that place where your body gets smallest in circumference

Something to keep in mind for why natural waist dresses are harder to find is that this thing you describe--where your body gets smallest in circumference--is not actually the waist on most American women. If you are overweight or even a "normal" weight but have an apple or pear body type, the smallest circumference part of your body is generally at your ribcage right near where your bra band fits.

I'm currently overweight, but I'm 5'7" and hourglass shaped, and especially when I was thinner really noticed the lack of natural-waist dresses, too. You do need to order tall sizes when they're available. (And probably all the modcloth dresses are too short for you, which really doesn't help you out here--I've noticed that they tend to skew toward best fitting folks in the 5'3"-5'5" range (read reviews).) And remember, you can always belt a shift dress or wear skirts.
posted by phunniemee at 12:38 PM on March 14, 2016 [1 favorite]


I am nthing the observation that you may just need something with a particular waist style, because a lot what you would call "semi-empire waist" is hitting me a my natural waist.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 12:39 PM on March 14, 2016 [2 favorites]


Oh, and wrap dresses are good because it's a choose your own waist adventure kind of thing.
posted by phunniemee at 12:39 PM on March 14, 2016 [21 favorites]


Sorry, I hit "post" too soon - another option would be to use a belt or sash at your natural waist on one of the shift styles.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 12:40 PM on March 14, 2016


Definitely wrap dresses (with are almost universally flattering and a bit easier to adjust where a dress cinches in). And if you're a 0, you probably want to be looking in the petites sections (Ann Taylor, The Loft, and Macy's are usually pretty good for that).
posted by lovableiago at 12:41 PM on March 14, 2016 [1 favorite]


If you were looking at LL Bean, did you try Land's End? They have both sheath (with a waist!) and fit and flare dresses. The talls unfortunately start at size 6, but the petites start at size 0 in the sheaths and regular size 0 in the fit and flare.

One thing that may help you when online shopping, is to measure your back length (from your neckbone to your natural waist). If you can call customer service and get that measurement in the size you are looking at, that will tell you if the dress will hit where you want it to.
posted by sarajane at 12:48 PM on March 14, 2016


This dress from Land's End has been amazing for me. It comes in a million colors and patterns. I wear them several days a week. And it has real, honest-to-god pockets big enough to hold actual items an adult woman might want to have access to, such as cell phones or wallets or a king size pack of Skittles. It tends to run long (I'm 5'10" and I can wear the regular size if I have to, though I prefer the tall), so the size 0 might be a great fit for you. I have found almost all of their dresses to be flattering, and not to have the issues you've described about too-high waists or too baggy hips. Here are all of the dresses they current sell in a XXS, XS, or 0. Have fun!
posted by decathecting at 12:51 PM on March 14, 2016 [5 favorites]


Dresses used to hit me at my natural waist but then my breasts got bigger and that fucked it all up. Just throwing it out there that sometimes it's not a long torso taking up the fabric but a giant rack.
posted by Juliet Banana at 1:02 PM on March 14, 2016 [7 favorites]


FWIW they do make that L.L. Bean dress in colors other than navy, but they're short-term seasonal releases, so keep checking the website if you like it and something *will* turn up (here's a net print that's available right now - they had some cute stripe versions last year too). I tried it on in an adorable green bird print that I really, really wanted to work but it was a terrible fit for me (but I'm shorter and heavier than you).
posted by mskyle at 1:21 PM on March 14, 2016


I can't speak to individual brands, but as a general internet window shopping strategy, "fit and flare dress" may be the search term you're looking for. Lots of sites use that as a "type" now so you can filter on it.

After that filtering step, unfortunately, you're still at the mercy of whatever fit models the brand used, so trying dresses on, in person, is still the best way to go about it. Still, I hope this can reduce the volume you have to try!
posted by aperturescientist at 1:33 PM on March 14, 2016 [1 favorite]


Oh do I feel your pain with this. I'm a couple inches taller and about 10 pounds heavier and it's nearly impossible for me to find dresses that hit at my natural waist.

Look for dresses without a horizontally seamed waist. Any waist definition in the design of the dress should be in the vertical seams. Stay away from fabrics and patterns that are structured in favor of stretchy, form-fitting dresses. Wrap dresses work, but usually I have to wrap down to get to my natural waist. It's not ideal, but it works. Belts, they are your friend. Ruching, also your friend.

Kit and Ace dresses are really good for tall, thin ladies. Monrow has nice casual dresses for your body type. If you need something fancier, be prepared to pay for it.
posted by scantee at 1:35 PM on March 14, 2016


I haven't bought from them yet, but a site called StyleWe is all over my Facebook advertising and has a lot of fit-and-flare styles.
posted by xo at 1:55 PM on March 14, 2016


Have you tried Shabby Apple? They have a lot of waist-defining dresses, at least some of which should hit at your natural waist. Try also searching for slightly-drop-waisted dresses - if you have a long waist,* they could actually hit closer to the right spot.

*Torso length and waist length are not the same thing. So, you could have a proportional torso (crotch to shoulders), but still have a long waist (distance from bottom of ribs to top of hips).
posted by melissasaurus at 2:00 PM on March 14, 2016 [1 favorite]


I am only 5'6", but my torso is pretty long (neck to waist length is 10.5"). Dresses tend to look infantile on me too because of where the dress waist lands. When I sew dresses, I always add 2" in length to the bodice so it falls where my waist actually is.

In ready-to-wear I've had really good luck at Old Navy/Gap/Banana Republic. Old Navy offers tall dress in XS, which corresponds to a size 0.
posted by mlo at 2:05 PM on March 14, 2016


Boden runs small, so you might fit into a size 2 there. (I'm normally a size 0/2, although short and not particularly small-waisted; I wear 2/4 at Boden.) It appears that they don't have 2T dresses in stock at present but it appears as an "out of stock" option, so check back when they have new arrivals.
posted by serelliya at 2:14 PM on March 14, 2016


I feel your pain and I'm shorter. so it's not just a tall thing. For example, this dress is called drop waist, which puts the waist in the vicinity of the waist.

Aside about Lands End: They caved to people who think Gloria Steinem is some sort of subversive.
posted by sageleaf at 2:43 PM on March 14, 2016 [1 favorite]


If you like their dress styles, Ureshii is another place that will custom-make to your measurements. I've purchased from them before, and while my fit issues are not your fit issues, they emailed me to make sure everything was right and to suggest a different fabric for one of the pieces, and what I ended up with fits me perfectly.
posted by telophase at 3:05 PM on March 14, 2016 [2 favorites]


Speaking as a woman with a waist, though I am shorter and weigh more than you, I strongly second Boden as a suggested site for dress shopping.
posted by bearwife at 3:14 PM on March 14, 2016


Do you have a DressBarn near you? I just ordered 4 dresses that match that description (well, I think they do, anyway, we'll see when they get here!)
posted by firei at 6:00 PM on March 14, 2016


Best answer: Some search terms for you: A-line, swing dress, '40s and '50s, sundress, pinup, tea-length. Even within that, it's hard, but that may help find that silhouette. Here are some examples.
I was just searching for this type of dress in the winter, and it's definitely harder at that time of year. I'd suggest stocking up in the spring and summer!
posted by limeonaire at 6:49 PM on March 14, 2016 [2 favorites]


Best answer: ASOS carries tall sizes in US 0.

Petite sizes are cut for shorter women (under 5'4"), so even though they are available in smaller sizes, they will likely fit even worse for you.
posted by airmail at 7:22 PM on March 14, 2016


I have this same problem, and the only solution I've found is going to stores and trying things on because everything online is a huge lie (I agree with you on ModCloth, and I've also had the same problem with ASOS).

I've found dresses that fit from J Crew, Banana Republic (tall), and Reiss, but not all of their dresses have a waist at the real waist so it gets frustrating.
posted by aaanastasia at 8:54 AM on March 15, 2016


Karina Dresses has about a dozen or so different styles, several of which look like the swing/'40s and '50s/pinup examples that limeonaire posted. I'd check out the Megan, Trudy and Gaia Wrap in particular, but there's lots to catch your eye.
The size range includes XS (0-4), but if you're unsure whether or not a particular dress will fit you, they're great about responding to emails with questions.

Bonuses:
If you like pockets, there are styles with pockets. Ditto if you like sleeves (short or long).

The dresses are made of a stretchy microfiber that can be scrunched up in a ball in your suitcase, then taken out and worn immediately without ironing.

Brooklyn-based Karina Dresses is woman-owned and pays the people who work for them a living wage.

The full price for a Karina dress is $85-$100, but if you follow them on FB/Instagram and/or you get on their email list, you'll hear about one-day specials, discounts on discontinued colorways, styles, etc.

No, I don't work for Karina ... I just really like their dresses and their ethics.

Here's a link (sorry for formatting issues -- I'm on mobile):

posted by virago at 11:57 AM on March 15, 2016 [1 favorite]


Best answer: Similar build here, 5'9", 114-118lbs, veeery long waisted (haven't been able to wear a one-piece swimsuit since childhood; smallest size tights and stockings are too long in the leg). J Crew and Banana Republic size 0 are adaptable, but most things are too wide or too short when they fit in the shoulders/bust. Anything that should be fitted is awful, just awful -designed to fit a 25in waist but no more than 5'2" in height.

This is two-part solution.
First, acknowledge that every dress off the rack will be too high-waisted, and/or utterly shapeless in your midsection. You will don a dress or tailored skirt, and grab handfuls of material above your hip bones.
Second, find a good tailor. Even the cheapest synthetic fibers can be made amazing by a skilled tailor's stitchery. This does not necessarily mean the dry-cleaner that does alterations on the side. Find someone who does more than nip in the side seams.

Step 2 is not optional. Sorry.

I prefer more fitted skirts than the dresses you linked, but here are some things that worked for me:
- vintage. There are so many offerings on Etsy or at the local vintage boutique, and you'll most likely have more options than someone larger or shorter. I have several dresses that are from the 50s-70s that required no alteration at all.
- wrap dresses or tie belts. Even if something doesn't hit at the right place, a self-tie can be adapted to suit your preferred waist location.
- Zara. Made for longer bodies. Very minimal alteration needed.
- All Saints. The older stuff, check eBay. This might be more in line with your previous question about menswear styles, but a lot of their clothes are structured for a longer/slimmer than average body.
- Asia. Hear me out. I know the average Southeast Asian female is much, much shorter than we are. I accept that you and I will wear the largest size offered. But really, take a look at dresses and skirts on gmarket (It's like the Korean Amazon). Skip the cheaper Chinese sites. The fitted waist-feminine silhouette is popular. Most dresses will be too short-waisted, and you will take them to your tailor for $20-50 per, and they will be perfect for you.
- separates. I know it's not what you asked for, but it's the easiest no-tailor-needed option. Fuller skirt a size or two too small, so you can wear it at your natural waist, but it doesn't cling horribly to your hips. Looser blouse in silk, chiffon, or polyester crepe. Light enough to slide unseen beneath your waistband; just enough drape and extra fabric to balance out a fuller skirt.
posted by ortoLANparty at 9:10 PM on March 15, 2016 [1 favorite]


Here are some gmarket options for separates, btw:

Option one
Option two
Option three
Option four
Option five

And I just received this dress. Definitely needs tailoring in the hip area though.

posted by ortoLANparty at 9:42 PM on March 15, 2016


Another search term you might try is blouson. It is a specific type of waisted dress but I find it very flattering (fit and flares always look awful on me).
posted by Jess the Mess at 11:38 AM on March 24, 2016


Learn to sew. Taking in a dress waist is really easy- it's just sewing two lines to extend the darts lower. Pin and baste by hand with thick thread (I use embroidery floss) to tweak the fit (make sure to also sit when adjusting fit, as the waist expands when you sit so you need to leave space) then machine-sew. It takes me 20 minutes to take in the waist of a dress or shirt, and I get a lot of compliments on the fit of my clothing.
posted by pseudostrabismus at 11:25 PM on March 26, 2016


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