Low-VOC paint over oil-based primer: is this a terrible idea?
November 15, 2015 8:56 AM Subscribe
Partner and I would like to use an oil-based primer on our moldings and baseboards, then use a no-VOC eco-friendly paint (Colorhouse; MSDS) for the topcoat. I've successfully used run-of-the-mill latex over oil primer before. But does anyone have experience with using no-VOC paint over oil primer?
We live in a 1920s condo, with beautiful original crown moldings and baseboards. Many decades worth of paint have been applied, so these moldings and baseboards have a mushy appearance. We were also concerned since the paint is cracking off in many places and there is almost certainly some lead in there given the age of the building.
At this point, we've mostly removed the old paint from our moldings and baseboards in one room. We don't want to go the route of sanding aggressively given the lead. Since the moldings aren't perfectly smooth, we'd like to use an oil-based primer for better coverage and to prevent peeling.
I fully recognize we could make our lives easier (if more VOC-full) by painting the moldings and baseboards with an oil-based paint. We're trying to use more environmentally-friendly approaches when possible, which is why I'm exploring this option.
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Folks with lead-related concerns on our behalf - we're well aware of the risks. As such we've been. using Citristrip to encapsulate as much of the paint as possible, wearing NIOSH-approved respirators that fit properly, etc. We don't have young children and will likely run a lead test before inviting over friends with little kids.
We live in a 1920s condo, with beautiful original crown moldings and baseboards. Many decades worth of paint have been applied, so these moldings and baseboards have a mushy appearance. We were also concerned since the paint is cracking off in many places and there is almost certainly some lead in there given the age of the building.
At this point, we've mostly removed the old paint from our moldings and baseboards in one room. We don't want to go the route of sanding aggressively given the lead. Since the moldings aren't perfectly smooth, we'd like to use an oil-based primer for better coverage and to prevent peeling.
I fully recognize we could make our lives easier (if more VOC-full) by painting the moldings and baseboards with an oil-based paint. We're trying to use more environmentally-friendly approaches when possible, which is why I'm exploring this option.
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Folks with lead-related concerns on our behalf - we're well aware of the risks. As such we've been. using Citristrip to encapsulate as much of the paint as possible, wearing NIOSH-approved respirators that fit properly, etc. We don't have young children and will likely run a lead test before inviting over friends with little kids.
I've just done what you're planning to do, and the answer is yes you can put no-VOC over oil-base primer: at least, it worked well for me. We used Zinsser primer, and although the water-based version worked we got a better result from the oil-based one in terms of its adhesion to the badly-applied old paint. I did a manual rub-down of the primer with fine sandpaper(then used tack cloth) before putting the no-VOC paint on top.
Note: DON'T use TSP before using the oil-base primer, or if you have already used TSP do a rinse with dilute vinegar wash before applying the primer.
posted by anadem at 7:40 PM on November 15, 2015
Note: DON'T use TSP before using the oil-base primer, or if you have already used TSP do a rinse with dilute vinegar wash before applying the primer.
posted by anadem at 7:40 PM on November 15, 2015
Yes, you can use water-based paint (VOC, or not) over oil-based primer. In fact, I would recommend that you do this on wood because oil has an easier time penetrating the wood grain than water. You'll have better adhesion AND a better finish! So good on ya.
You cannot use oil paint over latex primer. The oil will contract into plates as it hardens and pull the latex off of your surface.
When I was in the paint game there were several low-VOC oil paints. They weren't cheap and their finish wasn't as good as their counterparts but they would, by virtue of being oil, probably give you as good-or-better finish than a low-VOC water-based paint. Low-VOC water-based did have the reputation for being "fine" for walls but not especially great for smooth finishes.
Personally, if it were me, I would try and find a quart (or smaller size) of low-VOC oil to try on a single piece of board. My hunch is that two coats would give a really great finish. But, as always, use what you're comfortable with and what is available!
posted by Tevin at 11:40 AM on November 16, 2015
You cannot use oil paint over latex primer. The oil will contract into plates as it hardens and pull the latex off of your surface.
When I was in the paint game there were several low-VOC oil paints. They weren't cheap and their finish wasn't as good as their counterparts but they would, by virtue of being oil, probably give you as good-or-better finish than a low-VOC water-based paint. Low-VOC water-based did have the reputation for being "fine" for walls but not especially great for smooth finishes.
Personally, if it were me, I would try and find a quart (or smaller size) of low-VOC oil to try on a single piece of board. My hunch is that two coats would give a really great finish. But, as always, use what you're comfortable with and what is available!
posted by Tevin at 11:40 AM on November 16, 2015
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I've done a lot of painting and have learned a lot from talking with knowledgeable people at paint stores. If you want to prevent peeling, you want a primer designed for high adhesion, and they're usually labeled as "primer-sealer." Even on glass, these products won't peel -- so if you get some on a window pane, remove it in the first day or two. Brands I've liked: Kilz and Zinsser. Unless you have super challenging conditions like chalkiness or grease, the water-based ones will work great on bare wood or existing coatings.
I can't remember which of these are tintable. If you're going to use a deep paint color, it's good to have the primer tinted at the store to get close to the topcoat color, because deep paint colors tend not to have enough pigment to hide a white undercoat.
To further improve adhesion, let the dust settle after sanding and then wipe the surfaces with a damp cloth before priming.
The primer-sealers dry very fast, so dip just the lower 1/3 of the brush. Don't let the paint get near the ferrule (the metal collar that holds the bristles together) because you won't be able to clean the brush well. For clean-up, use warm water with dish soap.
Feel free to message me if you have more questions.
posted by wryly at 1:29 PM on November 15, 2015 [1 favorite]