Barcelona in late September
August 5, 2015 12:02 PM Subscribe
Looking for tips for upcoming trip to Barcelona in last two weeks of September. We've read some travel guides but wondering for first-hand advice on what to expect for weather, how much tourist Catalan to cram, must-sees, must-avoids, advice on how to best experience the Mercè festival which takes place while we are there, any great recommended day trips, how to most cost-effectively navigate the city via metro or tram, etc. Thanks in advance.
Best answer: If you see someone selling a ham cone you buy. that. ham. cone.
posted by ftm at 12:13 PM on August 5, 2015 [4 favorites]
posted by ftm at 12:13 PM on August 5, 2015 [4 favorites]
I spent time in Barcelona a loooooooooong time ago, so my info is in no way up to date, but:
1) I really liked the Cataluña coast and the mountain countryside - in the end, I preferred the region to the city. So if you're going to spend 2 weeks there, you might want to leave a few days for outside of the city. I liked Figueres and the Dalí Museum, as mentioned above (if they still do the nighttime opening [looks like it may be seasonal], that was fun); this article may be helpful for other spots. I also went to Vall de Núria - it's a ski resort in the winter, but a pretty mountain town in the summer. Presumably, it's still only accessible via the cremallera train.
2) I am close to fluent in Spanish, I couldn't learn spoken Catalán at all (reading it was fairly clear). I did fine with my Spanish - I think if you're going to focus on brushing up on tourist languages, Spanish will be more versatile, though certainly Catalán would be a good novelty.
posted by vunder at 12:24 PM on August 5, 2015
1) I really liked the Cataluña coast and the mountain countryside - in the end, I preferred the region to the city. So if you're going to spend 2 weeks there, you might want to leave a few days for outside of the city. I liked Figueres and the Dalí Museum, as mentioned above (if they still do the nighttime opening [looks like it may be seasonal], that was fun); this article may be helpful for other spots. I also went to Vall de Núria - it's a ski resort in the winter, but a pretty mountain town in the summer. Presumably, it's still only accessible via the cremallera train.
2) I am close to fluent in Spanish, I couldn't learn spoken Catalán at all (reading it was fairly clear). I did fine with my Spanish - I think if you're going to focus on brushing up on tourist languages, Spanish will be more versatile, though certainly Catalán would be a good novelty.
posted by vunder at 12:24 PM on August 5, 2015
Hey,
I visit BCN quite often.
No need to learn Catalan, Spanish or English is fine.
Definitely visit Park Guell AND La Sagrada Familiar (the latter is better)
Take care of pickpockets when visiting tourist places like La Ramblas. I also really really enjoyed Mt. Juic.
Visit the Market on Las Ramblas and eat delicious food!
The Gothic zone is also great!
Do go to the tapas places!
posted by The1andonly at 12:36 PM on August 5, 2015
I visit BCN quite often.
No need to learn Catalan, Spanish or English is fine.
Definitely visit Park Guell AND La Sagrada Familiar (the latter is better)
Take care of pickpockets when visiting tourist places like La Ramblas. I also really really enjoyed Mt. Juic.
Visit the Market on Las Ramblas and eat delicious food!
The Gothic zone is also great!
Do go to the tapas places!
posted by The1andonly at 12:36 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: We spent three days in Barcelona last year and loved it. One of the less standard tourist sites that we enjoyed was the Museum of Catalan History (El Museu d'Història de Catalunya). It was very well done.
We also booked a food tour through Aborígens Barcelona which we loved and highly recommend. We did the "Feast on tour", but there are other tours available that look equally enjoyable.
Which reminds me, Barcelona is a world class food town, so definitely keep an eye open for options (we always check with Chowhound, but YMMV). Its not one of the city's high-end, but we really enjoyed having Saturday Breakfast at El Quim in the Boqueria Market.
posted by Joe Schlabotnik at 1:08 PM on August 5, 2015
We also booked a food tour through Aborígens Barcelona which we loved and highly recommend. We did the "Feast on tour", but there are other tours available that look equally enjoyable.
Which reminds me, Barcelona is a world class food town, so definitely keep an eye open for options (we always check with Chowhound, but YMMV). Its not one of the city's high-end, but we really enjoyed having Saturday Breakfast at El Quim in the Boqueria Market.
posted by Joe Schlabotnik at 1:08 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: I was just in Barcelona for a week in July. In terms of getting around, the metro is excellent and there is a 10 euro/10 ride pass that includes transfers which is a great deal. Tons of signs are in both Spanish and Catalan, but I only had one person actually speak to me in Catalan (at Casa Milà).
Seconding walking around Mt. Juic and wish I had spent more time there.
My favorite meal (and cheap!) was at Restaurante Sant Joan.
We went on a day trip (well, actually stopped by as we were leaving town) to Montserrat monastery, which was pretty cool. There are some (fairly difficult) hikes there but also a funicular to the top of the mountain.
posted by ghharr at 1:13 PM on August 5, 2015
Seconding walking around Mt. Juic and wish I had spent more time there.
My favorite meal (and cheap!) was at Restaurante Sant Joan.
We went on a day trip (well, actually stopped by as we were leaving town) to Montserrat monastery, which was pretty cool. There are some (fairly difficult) hikes there but also a funicular to the top of the mountain.
posted by ghharr at 1:13 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: Sagrada Familia, yes! And do get tix online, also, get the extra elevator up the spire for both the vistas of Barcelona & the up close and personal with this awesome structure!
posted by The Vice Admiral of the Narrow Seas at 1:45 PM on August 5, 2015
posted by The Vice Admiral of the Narrow Seas at 1:45 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: I went to Barcelona this time last year and had an amazing time.
Loved: Park Güell, Parc del Laberint d'Horta, La Sagrada Familia, day trip to Monteserrat, spending a day on the beach at La Barceloneta, eating my weight in seafood/rabbit paella and xuixo (crema catalan filled fried pastry) from Pastelería Escribá near La Boqueria, drinking cava sangria everywhere, and dinner at Tapas 24.
I preferred Casa Batlló and Palau Güell over Casa Mila. I'd recommend the audio tours for both as well.
We bought tickets in advance for Park Güell and La Sagrada Familia. For Casa Batlló, we arrived when it opened and there was a large crowd waiting to get in when we left.
The metro was easier for us to use than the bus, but there was construction being done on some lines at the time, which added additional travel time. We bought packs of tickets as needed and it worked out well.
Have fun!
posted by kogester at 2:00 PM on August 5, 2015
Loved: Park Güell, Parc del Laberint d'Horta, La Sagrada Familia, day trip to Monteserrat, spending a day on the beach at La Barceloneta, eating my weight in seafood/rabbit paella and xuixo (crema catalan filled fried pastry) from Pastelería Escribá near La Boqueria, drinking cava sangria everywhere, and dinner at Tapas 24.
I preferred Casa Batlló and Palau Güell over Casa Mila. I'd recommend the audio tours for both as well.
We bought tickets in advance for Park Güell and La Sagrada Familia. For Casa Batlló, we arrived when it opened and there was a large crowd waiting to get in when we left.
The metro was easier for us to use than the bus, but there was construction being done on some lines at the time, which added additional travel time. We bought packs of tickets as needed and it worked out well.
Have fun!
posted by kogester at 2:00 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: I was also in Barcelona during Mercè last year!
I don't know what kind of stuff you like, but here were my takeaways:
- Las Ramblas is a tourist hellhole. If you're into that, go for it.
- Drink gin and tonics often. They are tended to carefully in Barcelona.
- Also drink cava and eat some anchovies and chorizo. Especially at places where you can throw your napkins on the floor.
- Go to the beach. The weather was perfect at this time of year. They have bars at the beach and the water is warm.
- The metro is very easy if you have taken any subways in any other city.
- You should be able to get a schedule for Merce online or pick up a pamphlet when you get there. It seemed quite a family friendly thing happening at spots quite accessible in the city. It's easy to just hang out on a stoop in front of a church and just catch bits of it. The correfoc (people dress up in devil costumes and run around with fireworks - yep) was fun to catch by accident, but personally I would not organize my schedule around it.
- I found most younger folks preferred to speak in English rather than muddy through poor Spanish. Older folks spoke at us angrily in Catalan waiting for us to understand.
posted by thirdletter at 5:43 PM on August 5, 2015
I don't know what kind of stuff you like, but here were my takeaways:
- Las Ramblas is a tourist hellhole. If you're into that, go for it.
- Drink gin and tonics often. They are tended to carefully in Barcelona.
- Also drink cava and eat some anchovies and chorizo. Especially at places where you can throw your napkins on the floor.
- Go to the beach. The weather was perfect at this time of year. They have bars at the beach and the water is warm.
- The metro is very easy if you have taken any subways in any other city.
- You should be able to get a schedule for Merce online or pick up a pamphlet when you get there. It seemed quite a family friendly thing happening at spots quite accessible in the city. It's easy to just hang out on a stoop in front of a church and just catch bits of it. The correfoc (people dress up in devil costumes and run around with fireworks - yep) was fun to catch by accident, but personally I would not organize my schedule around it.
- I found most younger folks preferred to speak in English rather than muddy through poor Spanish. Older folks spoke at us angrily in Catalan waiting for us to understand.
posted by thirdletter at 5:43 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: While getting tickets online for La Sagrada Familia might be worth it, my wife and I didn't do that and were able to purchase tickets right there when we visited in March. Definitely go up into the spire and take in the view from way up there. The height and cramped space got to me, so I took the elevator back down, although walking down was an option. My wife enjoyed that.
Memail me if you'd like some restaurant/café recs.
posted by emelenjr at 5:57 PM on August 5, 2015
Memail me if you'd like some restaurant/café recs.
posted by emelenjr at 5:57 PM on August 5, 2015
Best answer: When you go to Sagrada Familia and take the elevator up, walk down (unless, like the guy above, you don't do well with heights and cramped space). The walk down weaves amongst multiple towers on the facade, and has a bunch of viewing spots; you really appreciate the cathedral more. Also take some time and just watch the interplay of the light from the stained glass on the floor and columns.
Also: Buy that ham cone.
posted by Homeboy Trouble at 10:15 AM on August 6, 2015
Also: Buy that ham cone.
posted by Homeboy Trouble at 10:15 AM on August 6, 2015
Response by poster: Thanks to all. If anyone has any other specific restaurant recommendations, I'd be grateful. Thanks!
posted by aught at 12:32 PM on August 7, 2015
posted by aught at 12:32 PM on August 7, 2015
Best answer: I'm sure a lot of people know more than me but if you are in the Gothic quarter, I can say that we had a lovely time at Sagardi drinking cava and eating pintxos. That's the pintxo side, NOT the dinner side, which we didn't like all that much.
In general the food and cava were lovely and we had great food everywhere we sat. Despite being in touristy sections, out of maybe 21 meals out, only 1 was of the "suck it, tourists, this salsa brava is clearly just catsup" variety.
posted by ftm at 3:04 PM on August 11, 2015
In general the food and cava were lovely and we had great food everywhere we sat. Despite being in touristy sections, out of maybe 21 meals out, only 1 was of the "suck it, tourists, this salsa brava is clearly just catsup" variety.
posted by ftm at 3:04 PM on August 11, 2015
Response by poster: For future readers' reference, some highlights for attractions:
- all the Moderniste attractions are worth checking out if a bit expensive, but nonetheless recommended if you're willing to fork out the cash are Casa Batllò, La Pedrera (Casa Milà), Sagrada Familia basilica (including the tower unless you have issues with heights), the Palau de la Musica Catalan (and see a concert there, not just tour, gorgeous place and great acoustics), Parc Guëll, the Hospital de Sant Pau, and take a look at the outside of Casa Vicens in Gracia (heck, just wander for a couple hours around Gracia's streets)
- day trip to Montserrrat monastery / park, amazing views and mountain hikes, the cathedral is interesting as well; getting regional train tickets (that depending what you choose can also get you on the cable car and the funiculars at Montserrat) from the automated vending machines is more confusing than the travel guides suggest, so give yourself a little time for that
- the Runnerbean folks do a good and historically detailed "free" tour of the Gothic Quarter, daily (give them money at the end if you want, you probably will)
- I was not much impressed by Las Ramblas (it felt more crassly touristy than anything else in Barcelona), a bit Times-Squarish. It was better in the evening when it was cooler and the streetlamps were on
- La Bouqueria and Santa Caterina markets, and any others around the city you come across; Las Arenas shopping mall (built out of a big old bullfighting ring) has an observation deck on the top with a cool view
- The main Cathedral in the Gothic Quarter, and the Santa Maria del Mar cathedral as well
- we were there during the Mercè festival, which was great fun, particularly the parades of paper-mache giants and beasts, the castellers (human towers), the sardanes dances, and the wild Correfòc night on Via Laetana (go to both the kids' version and the much more intense adult one later; the kids are cute and the adult one is crazy, be sure to dress properly and protectively), and don't miss the Piromusical show by the Magic Fountains (best fireworks show I have ever seen)
- Museums: Fundacio Miro, Museu Picasso, MACBA recommended; Museu Maritime (down by the Columbus monument) recommended if you have any interest at all in historical ships
Food
- In general, look for "menu del dià" deals during the 1-4 pm window weekdays; evenings snack on tapas and drinks
- specific places we had very good meals, in no particular order: Lluis de les Moles (slightly pricier), Petra, Atril, La Rita, Tapas 24 (hyped but really good), Terra d'Escudella, the cafe in the Fund. Mirò museum, Mason David (in the Raval); pick-up meals for coffee, snacks, etc. are easy to find; maybe we were really lucky but we didn't hit any bad meals, and only a few average ones; as others have said, a serious food town
- Iberian jamon (fancy ham, feels wrong to even just call it ham) - unless you're a vegetarian or kosher, yum.
- Vermouth ("vermùt") as a stand-alone drink was a revelation, often brewed in-house, served on ice with lemon: excellent. Also, the house wines you get with your meals in most Barcelona restaurants are better than the stuff you pay $7-8 a glass for back home (E. coast US for me). Also, cava.
General
- so before going we read everywhere about how bad crime and pickpockets were; happily we had zero problems, but we are used to going around in NY City and other big cities, so I think if you dress non-touristy, avoid gaudy jewelry, don't leave your mobile phone / purse / backpack sitting on a table or seat, and generally act non-stupidly, you'll likely be okay. Maybe step up your vigilance in Barceloneta (the crowded skeevier area by the beach) or the Raval at night, in crowded metro cars, and the area right around Sagrada Familia.
- give yourself extra time for the airport, esp. if you're flying internationally and have to go through lines in bag check, passport control, and security, and esp. esp. if you are not sure what gate or terminal your flight will be boarding from. Again, if you're used to airline travel in this day and age, it's more of the same, but be sure to get to the airport with at least a couple hours before boarding. If your metro path requires you to change at the Passeig de Gracia station to get to the airport via the Renfe train, consider taking a hotel airport van or taxi, because that station is a warren of stairways, platforms for a number of metro lines, and long long hallways connecting different sections.
- Getting around on the Metro system was fine, and cheap if you get T-10 cards, which make each ride less than €1 and can be shared
- Learn some basic Català to make friends with folks. (Even a basic "Molt bo!" eating at a restaurant. And of course knowing basic food terms is really useful as some restaurants don't have English menus,) And as in most travel, knowing how to count in the local language helps avoid being shortchanged in random purchases. Most people you encounter will be able to speak a little English, but making an effort to meet them a little of the way in communication means something to people. (I think this is a good idea everywhere when traveling, of course.) And be aware that speaking decent Spanish in Barcelona might not actually impress folks any more than speaking English (except for the occasional non-native-Catalan waitperson); legally, Barcelona might still be part of Spain, but in their hearts its citizens are Catalan.
posted by aught at 2:07 PM on October 1, 2015 [3 favorites]
- all the Moderniste attractions are worth checking out if a bit expensive, but nonetheless recommended if you're willing to fork out the cash are Casa Batllò, La Pedrera (Casa Milà), Sagrada Familia basilica (including the tower unless you have issues with heights), the Palau de la Musica Catalan (and see a concert there, not just tour, gorgeous place and great acoustics), Parc Guëll, the Hospital de Sant Pau, and take a look at the outside of Casa Vicens in Gracia (heck, just wander for a couple hours around Gracia's streets)
- day trip to Montserrrat monastery / park, amazing views and mountain hikes, the cathedral is interesting as well; getting regional train tickets (that depending what you choose can also get you on the cable car and the funiculars at Montserrat) from the automated vending machines is more confusing than the travel guides suggest, so give yourself a little time for that
- the Runnerbean folks do a good and historically detailed "free" tour of the Gothic Quarter, daily (give them money at the end if you want, you probably will)
- I was not much impressed by Las Ramblas (it felt more crassly touristy than anything else in Barcelona), a bit Times-Squarish. It was better in the evening when it was cooler and the streetlamps were on
- La Bouqueria and Santa Caterina markets, and any others around the city you come across; Las Arenas shopping mall (built out of a big old bullfighting ring) has an observation deck on the top with a cool view
- The main Cathedral in the Gothic Quarter, and the Santa Maria del Mar cathedral as well
- we were there during the Mercè festival, which was great fun, particularly the parades of paper-mache giants and beasts, the castellers (human towers), the sardanes dances, and the wild Correfòc night on Via Laetana (go to both the kids' version and the much more intense adult one later; the kids are cute and the adult one is crazy, be sure to dress properly and protectively), and don't miss the Piromusical show by the Magic Fountains (best fireworks show I have ever seen)
- Museums: Fundacio Miro, Museu Picasso, MACBA recommended; Museu Maritime (down by the Columbus monument) recommended if you have any interest at all in historical ships
Food
- In general, look for "menu del dià" deals during the 1-4 pm window weekdays; evenings snack on tapas and drinks
- specific places we had very good meals, in no particular order: Lluis de les Moles (slightly pricier), Petra, Atril, La Rita, Tapas 24 (hyped but really good), Terra d'Escudella, the cafe in the Fund. Mirò museum, Mason David (in the Raval); pick-up meals for coffee, snacks, etc. are easy to find; maybe we were really lucky but we didn't hit any bad meals, and only a few average ones; as others have said, a serious food town
- Iberian jamon (fancy ham, feels wrong to even just call it ham) - unless you're a vegetarian or kosher, yum.
- Vermouth ("vermùt") as a stand-alone drink was a revelation, often brewed in-house, served on ice with lemon: excellent. Also, the house wines you get with your meals in most Barcelona restaurants are better than the stuff you pay $7-8 a glass for back home (E. coast US for me). Also, cava.
General
- so before going we read everywhere about how bad crime and pickpockets were; happily we had zero problems, but we are used to going around in NY City and other big cities, so I think if you dress non-touristy, avoid gaudy jewelry, don't leave your mobile phone / purse / backpack sitting on a table or seat, and generally act non-stupidly, you'll likely be okay. Maybe step up your vigilance in Barceloneta (the crowded skeevier area by the beach) or the Raval at night, in crowded metro cars, and the area right around Sagrada Familia.
- give yourself extra time for the airport, esp. if you're flying internationally and have to go through lines in bag check, passport control, and security, and esp. esp. if you are not sure what gate or terminal your flight will be boarding from. Again, if you're used to airline travel in this day and age, it's more of the same, but be sure to get to the airport with at least a couple hours before boarding. If your metro path requires you to change at the Passeig de Gracia station to get to the airport via the Renfe train, consider taking a hotel airport van or taxi, because that station is a warren of stairways, platforms for a number of metro lines, and long long hallways connecting different sections.
- Getting around on the Metro system was fine, and cheap if you get T-10 cards, which make each ride less than €1 and can be shared
- Learn some basic Català to make friends with folks. (Even a basic "Molt bo!" eating at a restaurant. And of course knowing basic food terms is really useful as some restaurants don't have English menus,) And as in most travel, knowing how to count in the local language helps avoid being shortchanged in random purchases. Most people you encounter will be able to speak a little English, but making an effort to meet them a little of the way in communication means something to people. (I think this is a good idea everywhere when traveling, of course.) And be aware that speaking decent Spanish in Barcelona might not actually impress folks any more than speaking English (except for the occasional non-native-Catalan waitperson); legally, Barcelona might still be part of Spain, but in their hearts its citizens are Catalan.
posted by aught at 2:07 PM on October 1, 2015 [3 favorites]
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posted by vegartanipla at 12:12 PM on August 5, 2015