How do I go from singlespeed to road bike?
July 5, 2010 11:57 PM
Looking to graduate from singlespeed to road bike. How do I navigate all the options?
I rode my singlespeed for a long time as a commute bike, and recently a bit more recreationally. I love my Bianchi San Jose, but it's just not going to cut it now that I'm looking at doing longer, hilly rides (50-100mi). I had great times with it in Silicon Valley, but it was frustrating in the Presidio and on long trips.
Many searches have yielded dead threads, so I ask, what do you look for in a great road bike? I'm happy to local bike shops, but what do you look for? What's most important to consider in a first road bike? Assume that money isn't a problem and I'm not trying to pick up a used 10spd.
I rode my singlespeed for a long time as a commute bike, and recently a bit more recreationally. I love my Bianchi San Jose, but it's just not going to cut it now that I'm looking at doing longer, hilly rides (50-100mi). I had great times with it in Silicon Valley, but it was frustrating in the Presidio and on long trips.
Many searches have yielded dead threads, so I ask, what do you look for in a great road bike? I'm happy to local bike shops, but what do you look for? What's most important to consider in a first road bike? Assume that money isn't a problem and I'm not trying to pick up a used 10spd.
2nding alex_skazat, there's not really much more to it.
posted by Señor Pantalones at 12:15 AM on July 6, 2010
posted by Señor Pantalones at 12:15 AM on July 6, 2010
I kind of disagree with alex_skazat; the high-end technologies do have some advantages. Parts made of metal instead of plastic, for example.
If you are planning on throwing your bike in the trash in a year... sure, go for the plastic parts. But if you want something you can repair, you have to go high-end-ish. My first road bike had a Shimano 105 groupset, midrange. It worked very well until random plastic parts started failing. I replaced things with Ultegra incrementally... it was a little lighter, but a lot more durable. Everything is metal, and more parts are adjustable. That is really what you're paying for, and I think that's worth it.
If I were buying a bike today, I would go with something like this: http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_kapu_en.cfm. It will last forever. Steel frame + Ultegra = great bike.
posted by jrockway at 12:23 AM on July 6, 2010
If you are planning on throwing your bike in the trash in a year... sure, go for the plastic parts. But if you want something you can repair, you have to go high-end-ish. My first road bike had a Shimano 105 groupset, midrange. It worked very well until random plastic parts started failing. I replaced things with Ultegra incrementally... it was a little lighter, but a lot more durable. Everything is metal, and more parts are adjustable. That is really what you're paying for, and I think that's worth it.
If I were buying a bike today, I would go with something like this: http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_kapu_en.cfm. It will last forever. Steel frame + Ultegra = great bike.
posted by jrockway at 12:23 AM on July 6, 2010
Whatever bike you get, replace the wheels with a pair of Mavic OpenPROs and Shimano 105 (or better) hubs. The Mavics have lasted me through thousands of touring miles, commuting through city potholes and getting doored, without much more than a slight wheel truing.
posted by Blazecock Pileon at 12:36 AM on July 6, 2010
posted by Blazecock Pileon at 12:36 AM on July 6, 2010
I kind of disagree with alex_skazat; the high-end technologies do have some advantages. Parts made of metal instead of plastic, for example.
I'm not sure if I mean the epic, Plastic vs. Metal Bike Part Wars - we're getting way too specific about things. Would I choose Ultegra over 105? Probably. Is that the advice I would give to a first-time road-bike purchaser? No. The advice I would give is what I said: Get thee to a bike shop that cares about its cyclists and ask them tons of questions. They'll know what works, what doesn't and hopefully, won't fill your mind up with fancy part names to fancy brands. Love my LBS, here it is:
http://www.salvagetti.com/
There's all this crazy tech, be it for wheels, or frames, or $Name_Of_Part - they cost tons and do absolutely nothing for an enthusiast cyclist. So, stay away from them. I am not talking about little tiny pieces made of this or that, rather - I'm taking a wider picture of things. Navigating through the small stuff is what a LBS should help you with, but whole bikes break, bike parts break and you will replace them with time. Part of the game. I'm pushing 190lbs and I break me a fair share of bike parts.
If I were buying a bike today, I would go with something like this: http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_kapu_en.cfm. It will last forever. Steel frame + Ultegra = great bike.
Chapeau bike, I say!
posted by alex_skazat at 1:24 AM on July 6, 2010
I'm not sure if I mean the epic, Plastic vs. Metal Bike Part Wars - we're getting way too specific about things. Would I choose Ultegra over 105? Probably. Is that the advice I would give to a first-time road-bike purchaser? No. The advice I would give is what I said: Get thee to a bike shop that cares about its cyclists and ask them tons of questions. They'll know what works, what doesn't and hopefully, won't fill your mind up with fancy part names to fancy brands. Love my LBS, here it is:
http://www.salvagetti.com/
There's all this crazy tech, be it for wheels, or frames, or $Name_Of_Part - they cost tons and do absolutely nothing for an enthusiast cyclist. So, stay away from them. I am not talking about little tiny pieces made of this or that, rather - I'm taking a wider picture of things. Navigating through the small stuff is what a LBS should help you with, but whole bikes break, bike parts break and you will replace them with time. Part of the game. I'm pushing 190lbs and I break me a fair share of bike parts.
If I were buying a bike today, I would go with something like this: http://www.konaworld.com/09/09_kapu_en.cfm. It will last forever. Steel frame + Ultegra = great bike.
Chapeau bike, I say!
posted by alex_skazat at 1:24 AM on July 6, 2010
Once you have a bike, you may be looking at another few hundred dollars to get it to commuter-grade (mudguards, lights, pannier rack, in-line brake levers, chainguard, etc). I don't know if alex_skazat's budget is supposed to include this or is just for a bare bike, or how much of these parts you can salvage from your existing bike, but be prepared for that stuff to add up frighteningly quickly :-/
posted by -harlequin- at 4:05 AM on July 6, 2010
posted by -harlequin- at 4:05 AM on July 6, 2010
Steel frame + Ultegra = great bike
Eh. Some of the boutique steel frames from custom builders are nice, but those are expensive. In an entry-mid price range (like that Kona) you're getting In that price range, you're getting cheap tubes with commodity welding, and they won't ride any better than a comparable aluminum or carbon fiber bike, just heavier.
My advice is to buy the bike that fits the best with at least Shimano 105 (or SRAM Rival). There may be plastic bits on the components, but it's definitely the sweet spot between quality and price—friends of mine have raced their 105 for years and not had any more problems than those of us with Ultegra or Dura-Ace. If you've got the cash ($2500+), go with carbon fiber over aluminum—it's worth it—but aluminum is just fine too (I've ridden and raced my alu bike for years, just because there's no good reason to replace it).
Go to a reputable independent bike shop and have them fit you (this will probably cost extra, but is incredibly worth it) using Retul, Serotta Fit System, or similar. The information you get from that will inform what size to buy and how to set up the saddle, bars, etc. The measurements that bike manufacturers use on their bikes vary hugely. What's a "56cm" for one will be totally different on another based on where the measurements are taken, so the important things to focus on are 1) effective top tube length (a virtual horizontal line from seatpost to head tube; this, along with stem length and saddle setback, determines your reach (distance to the bars), and 2) head tube length, which determines the height of your bars, i.e. how far bent over you are. A lot of manufacturers now (Specialized, Scott, Cervelo, etc) are making bikes with higher head tubes and longer wheelbases that are expressly for long distance riding, vs. bikes with more aggressive postures that are geared toward racing. You can definitely ride a bike with a short head tube for long distances, but if you're not racing, you'll be good with the slightly less aero position. In any case, a good shop will fit you and then help you select a bike based on your criteria. There are shady bike shops out there, and great ones too, so hopefully your next AskMeFi question will be something like "what's the best mid-high end bike shop in Silicon Valley?"
And make sure you buy clipless shoes and pedals, which are invaluable for distance riding.
posted by The Michael The at 5:03 AM on July 6, 2010
Eh. Some of the boutique steel frames from custom builders are nice, but those are expensive. In an entry-mid price range (like that Kona) you're getting In that price range, you're getting cheap tubes with commodity welding, and they won't ride any better than a comparable aluminum or carbon fiber bike, just heavier.
My advice is to buy the bike that fits the best with at least Shimano 105 (or SRAM Rival). There may be plastic bits on the components, but it's definitely the sweet spot between quality and price—friends of mine have raced their 105 for years and not had any more problems than those of us with Ultegra or Dura-Ace. If you've got the cash ($2500+), go with carbon fiber over aluminum—it's worth it—but aluminum is just fine too (I've ridden and raced my alu bike for years, just because there's no good reason to replace it).
Go to a reputable independent bike shop and have them fit you (this will probably cost extra, but is incredibly worth it) using Retul, Serotta Fit System, or similar. The information you get from that will inform what size to buy and how to set up the saddle, bars, etc. The measurements that bike manufacturers use on their bikes vary hugely. What's a "56cm" for one will be totally different on another based on where the measurements are taken, so the important things to focus on are 1) effective top tube length (a virtual horizontal line from seatpost to head tube; this, along with stem length and saddle setback, determines your reach (distance to the bars), and 2) head tube length, which determines the height of your bars, i.e. how far bent over you are. A lot of manufacturers now (Specialized, Scott, Cervelo, etc) are making bikes with higher head tubes and longer wheelbases that are expressly for long distance riding, vs. bikes with more aggressive postures that are geared toward racing. You can definitely ride a bike with a short head tube for long distances, but if you're not racing, you'll be good with the slightly less aero position. In any case, a good shop will fit you and then help you select a bike based on your criteria. There are shady bike shops out there, and great ones too, so hopefully your next AskMeFi question will be something like "what's the best mid-high end bike shop in Silicon Valley?"
And make sure you buy clipless shoes and pedals, which are invaluable for distance riding.
posted by The Michael The at 5:03 AM on July 6, 2010
Whatever bike you get, replace the wheels with a pair of Mavic OpenPROs and Shimano 105 (or better) hubs.
I came here to say this exact same thing. The wheels included in a sub $2000 bike are usually crap. Mavic Open Pros laced to Ultegra hubs are bombproof wheels, and will set you back around $320 or so for a set. It's not an upgrade you have to make right now, but put it in the budget.
Other than that, consider if you want something on the comfort + performance side of the equation. If price is no object, check out Specialized's Roubaix line. If that's a bit out of budget, then anything in their Allez lineup with 105 and above will suit you fine.
posted by spikeleemajortomdickandharryconnickjrmints at 5:36 AM on July 6, 2010
I came here to say this exact same thing. The wheels included in a sub $2000 bike are usually crap. Mavic Open Pros laced to Ultegra hubs are bombproof wheels, and will set you back around $320 or so for a set. It's not an upgrade you have to make right now, but put it in the budget.
Other than that, consider if you want something on the comfort + performance side of the equation. If price is no object, check out Specialized's Roubaix line. If that's a bit out of budget, then anything in their Allez lineup with 105 and above will suit you fine.
posted by spikeleemajortomdickandharryconnickjrmints at 5:36 AM on July 6, 2010
Head to Bespoke over at 24th and Castro. Stefan, Ari, and Aaron are the best in the area. They might not have something for your budget, but they won't play games with you, and you'll learn a lot. Their bikes fits are quite extensive and worth the month. Also seconding the Open Pros.
posted by kcm at 6:46 AM on July 6, 2010
posted by kcm at 6:46 AM on July 6, 2010
First of all, nth-ing the "Find a reputable bike shop" comments. A good bike store owner will be much more helpful to you than a bunch of people from the Internet. I would say that the $1500-$3000 price point is what will get you the best value for your money in a road bike. If you go above $3k, you will probably get a really nice bike, but the additional niceness won't translate to gains in performance that would be useful for anyone except the pros or extremely talented amateur racers (also, you'd probably be really, really, really sad if you crashed and destroyed a $5000 bike). If you go below $1500, you'll probably have to upgrade in a season or two. If I was going to buy a first road bike and money was no object, I'd probably be looking around the $2000 price point. This is an interesting article about the point of diminishing returns in road bike pricing.
I would also nth the "at-least-105-level-components" concept; the lower-level components are just not something I would want to take on a long ride. Ultegra components are more durable and are nicer, but I wouldn't say that they are necessary for a beginning recreational road cyclist.
Fit is going to be more important than any other consideration; don't buy the first bike you get on. Instead, ride a lot of different bikes from a lot of different makers and see what feels best to you. I'd rather ride 100 miles on a 25-pound bike that fit perfectly than a 15-pound bike that was a little bit off -- especially once you start biking longer distances, those tiny maladjustments result in massive pain down the line. So get the one that fits you best to start with, and then invest in a professional fitting to make it really perfect for you. If you're a woman (or a short-armed, long-legged man), you might find that a women's-specific model works a bit better for you.
My road bike is an aluminum-frame women's-specific Scott Speedster set up with Shimano 105 components. I really love it, and it's gotten me through several 50+ mile rides and a triathlon in relative comfort.
posted by kataclysm at 7:05 AM on July 6, 2010
I would also nth the "at-least-105-level-components" concept; the lower-level components are just not something I would want to take on a long ride. Ultegra components are more durable and are nicer, but I wouldn't say that they are necessary for a beginning recreational road cyclist.
Fit is going to be more important than any other consideration; don't buy the first bike you get on. Instead, ride a lot of different bikes from a lot of different makers and see what feels best to you. I'd rather ride 100 miles on a 25-pound bike that fit perfectly than a 15-pound bike that was a little bit off -- especially once you start biking longer distances, those tiny maladjustments result in massive pain down the line. So get the one that fits you best to start with, and then invest in a professional fitting to make it really perfect for you. If you're a woman (or a short-armed, long-legged man), you might find that a women's-specific model works a bit better for you.
My road bike is an aluminum-frame women's-specific Scott Speedster set up with Shimano 105 components. I really love it, and it's gotten me through several 50+ mile rides and a triathlon in relative comfort.
posted by kataclysm at 7:05 AM on July 6, 2010
IAA(former) cycle mechanic. Since it hasn't been explicitly mentioned yet: accept that the factory saddle on most bikes is junk, and also accept that you may have to try three or four before finding one that fits your bum. Some shops have a saddle trial program with WTB, Terry, or Fizik where they'll let you ride a few to help make up your mind before committing to a $100+ component.
However: don't let anyone, not even your most experienced cyclist friends, tell you to buy a specific saddle (without trying it out). Everyone's fit and bums are different.
To a similar end, proper tires really make a difference in the ride quality of your bicycle, and while more bikes come with nice tires now, many don't. I love the Grand Prix 4000 and have also had many satisfied riders at the shop with Schwalbe.
At the risk of supporting a consumer model that's killing the LBS, don't pay retail for tires. Wait until they go on sale online and then buy four, and tubes.
posted by a halcyon day at 7:31 AM on July 6, 2010
However: don't let anyone, not even your most experienced cyclist friends, tell you to buy a specific saddle (without trying it out). Everyone's fit and bums are different.
To a similar end, proper tires really make a difference in the ride quality of your bicycle, and while more bikes come with nice tires now, many don't. I love the Grand Prix 4000 and have also had many satisfied riders at the shop with Schwalbe.
At the risk of supporting a consumer model that's killing the LBS, don't pay retail for tires. Wait until they go on sale online and then buy four, and tubes.
posted by a halcyon day at 7:31 AM on July 6, 2010
I JUST did this. I of course still commute on my Fuji Track, but I take my new bike out for charity rides, club rides, etc. I love it.
I wanted a road bike that was similar in geometry to my track bike-- namely, traditional, flat top tube steel. I'm really happy with the route I took, considering my budget.
I bought a Specialized Allez Steel. I was looking to just get a frame and build it myself, but the RBR forum page for it pushed me over the edge.
Since then, I've completely upgraded the drivetrain to older (6500) Ultegra (9sp), with a few DA and 105 parts (bad pic here). (Oh, I also put a Brooks B17 and Shimano clipless SPD pedals on it, plus Hutchinson Kevlar tires.) I liked the bike before, but I love it now. Until a few months ago, the longest ride I had EVER taken was maybe 20 miles, and that was a couple years ago. Safe to say I am far past that now, and I credit my new bike. Sure, it's heavy, but it's comfy and solid.
When I get the funds, I'll be investing in an Independent frame, or something similar, and move over the parts. Then upgrade parts again, etc etc. There's no stopping!
posted by supercres at 8:33 AM on July 6, 2010
I wanted a road bike that was similar in geometry to my track bike-- namely, traditional, flat top tube steel. I'm really happy with the route I took, considering my budget.
I bought a Specialized Allez Steel. I was looking to just get a frame and build it myself, but the RBR forum page for it pushed me over the edge.
Since then, I've completely upgraded the drivetrain to older (6500) Ultegra (9sp), with a few DA and 105 parts (bad pic here). (Oh, I also put a Brooks B17 and Shimano clipless SPD pedals on it, plus Hutchinson Kevlar tires.) I liked the bike before, but I love it now. Until a few months ago, the longest ride I had EVER taken was maybe 20 miles, and that was a couple years ago. Safe to say I am far past that now, and I credit my new bike. Sure, it's heavy, but it's comfy and solid.
When I get the funds, I'll be investing in an Independent frame, or something similar, and move over the parts. Then upgrade parts again, etc etc. There's no stopping!
posted by supercres at 8:33 AM on July 6, 2010
Also: I did get new wheels, because the ones that came with it were pretty bad. I had a set built with Velocity Aerohead/Aerohead OC laced to Ultegra hubs. Considered the Mavics, but the off-center rear hub was too cool to pass up.
I should also point out that the Shimano line has changed a lot in the past year or two. The current 105s are a lot more similar to Ultegra and DA than they used to be. If I wasn't concerned with keeping more retro styling, that's probably what I would've gone with. That, or SRAM-- seems like they might have the biggest bang-for-buck at the moment.
If you don't want steel, there's some great stuff in the mid-1000s with aluminum/carbon combo frames-- mostly alu, but with carbon fork and seatstays. Much more comfy than straight alu.
posted by supercres at 8:39 AM on July 6, 2010
I should also point out that the Shimano line has changed a lot in the past year or two. The current 105s are a lot more similar to Ultegra and DA than they used to be. If I wasn't concerned with keeping more retro styling, that's probably what I would've gone with. That, or SRAM-- seems like they might have the biggest bang-for-buck at the moment.
If you don't want steel, there's some great stuff in the mid-1000s with aluminum/carbon combo frames-- mostly alu, but with carbon fork and seatstays. Much more comfy than straight alu.
posted by supercres at 8:39 AM on July 6, 2010
Argh. "off-center rear rim." (This one.)
I'm done now.
posted by supercres at 8:43 AM on July 6, 2010
I'm done now.
posted by supercres at 8:43 AM on July 6, 2010
That, or SRAM-- seems like they might have the biggest bang-for-buck at the moment.
Seriously... SRAM Rival is less expensive than 105, lighter than Ultegra, and has the same mechanicals as Red. Crazy stuff.
However: don't let anyone, not even your most experienced cyclist friends, tell you to buy a specific saddle (without trying it out). Everyone's fit and bums are different.
Truth to power. I went through six or so before I found one that I love (though, ironically, the frontrunner before my current love was the OEM saddle the bike came with, which fit me better than any high-zoot saddle).
To a similar end, proper tires really make a difference in the ride quality of your bicycle, and while more bikes come with nice tires now, many don't. I love the Grand Prix 4000 and have also had many satisfied riders at the shop with Schwalbe.
I'm in love with Vittoria Open Tubulars (their top-end clinchers), but they retail for $70 per. Don't pay retail.
I came here to say this exact same thing. The wheels included in a sub $2000 bike are usually crap. Mavic Open Pros laced to Ultegra hubs are bombproof wheels, and will set you back around $320 or so for a set. It's not an upgrade you have to make right now, but put it in the budget.
So, so true. Actually, any quality hubs (Ultegra or Dura-Ace, Chris King, White Industries, DT Swiss 240s) with a reasonable spoke count (28-32) and quality rims (Open Pro, DT Swiss RR415/RR465/RR525, Velocity Aerohead or Deep-V) will be great and have a ton of longevity. Ultegra/Open Pro will be the most cost-effective, but also heavier than some other options. Go with what you can afford.
posted by The Michael The at 8:59 AM on July 6, 2010
Seriously... SRAM Rival is less expensive than 105, lighter than Ultegra, and has the same mechanicals as Red. Crazy stuff.
However: don't let anyone, not even your most experienced cyclist friends, tell you to buy a specific saddle (without trying it out). Everyone's fit and bums are different.
Truth to power. I went through six or so before I found one that I love (though, ironically, the frontrunner before my current love was the OEM saddle the bike came with, which fit me better than any high-zoot saddle).
To a similar end, proper tires really make a difference in the ride quality of your bicycle, and while more bikes come with nice tires now, many don't. I love the Grand Prix 4000 and have also had many satisfied riders at the shop with Schwalbe.
I'm in love with Vittoria Open Tubulars (their top-end clinchers), but they retail for $70 per. Don't pay retail.
I came here to say this exact same thing. The wheels included in a sub $2000 bike are usually crap. Mavic Open Pros laced to Ultegra hubs are bombproof wheels, and will set you back around $320 or so for a set. It's not an upgrade you have to make right now, but put it in the budget.
So, so true. Actually, any quality hubs (Ultegra or Dura-Ace, Chris King, White Industries, DT Swiss 240s) with a reasonable spoke count (28-32) and quality rims (Open Pro, DT Swiss RR415/RR465/RR525, Velocity Aerohead or Deep-V) will be great and have a ton of longevity. Ultegra/Open Pro will be the most cost-effective, but also heavier than some other options. Go with what you can afford.
posted by The Michael The at 8:59 AM on July 6, 2010
Consider buying a new, old-stock bike. I have a $3000 Cannondale and a $3200 Rocky Mountain that I picked up for $1200 and $1900 respectively, each less than a year out of date. Bicycle technology in most cases moves slowly, and dealers need to move old stock to make the gearheads happy.
If you get a bike that's close to top-of-the-line but not actually there, you miss the steep curve of diminishing returns, but you maintain the right to upgrade. A bike with a great frame and 105 or Ultegra is worth caring for and upgrading when appropriate.
The advice on getting new wheels, above, is good.
posted by klanawa at 9:49 AM on July 6, 2010
If you get a bike that's close to top-of-the-line but not actually there, you miss the steep curve of diminishing returns, but you maintain the right to upgrade. A bike with a great frame and 105 or Ultegra is worth caring for and upgrading when appropriate.
The advice on getting new wheels, above, is good.
posted by klanawa at 9:49 AM on July 6, 2010
Once you have a bike, you may be looking at another few hundred dollars to get it to commuter-grade (mudguards, lights, pannier rack, in-line brake levers, chainguard, etc). I don't know if alex_skazat's budget is supposed to include this or is just for a bare bike, or how much of these parts you can salvage from your existing bike, but be prepared for that stuff to add up frighteningly quickly :-/
I dunno if that's what the OP is asking - they say they do commutes on a single speed, but want to do upwards of 100 mile rides.
If that San Jose is holding up for commuting, I'd keep that pretty dedicated for the job and have that other bike he wants to get for those epic rides he's thinkin' about.
But, you're right - things like fenders and racks and all that can be expensive and being a cheapskate just gets you subpar stuff, but there's a point where the really expensive stuff is just getting to be silly expensive.
Kind of like a lot of bike stuff.
posted by alex_skazat at 10:52 AM on July 6, 2010
I dunno if that's what the OP is asking - they say they do commutes on a single speed, but want to do upwards of 100 mile rides.
If that San Jose is holding up for commuting, I'd keep that pretty dedicated for the job and have that other bike he wants to get for those epic rides he's thinkin' about.
But, you're right - things like fenders and racks and all that can be expensive and being a cheapskate just gets you subpar stuff, but there's a point where the really expensive stuff is just getting to be silly expensive.
Kind of like a lot of bike stuff.
posted by alex_skazat at 10:52 AM on July 6, 2010
Seconding SRAM Rival. One of my road bikes had some (4+ year old, mostly) D-A and while it's nice, the cross bike with Rival is mostly just as nice for half the price. The comments about 105 being even closer to Ultegra these days are also true.
Never skimp on contacts patches and rubber: saddle, brakes, tires. I love Schwalbe Ultremo Rs, but they're a bit pricey and shred themselves a bit sooner than other tires I've used .. but they feel so good. :)
posted by kcm at 4:16 PM on July 6, 2010
Never skimp on contacts patches and rubber: saddle, brakes, tires. I love Schwalbe Ultremo Rs, but they're a bit pricey and shred themselves a bit sooner than other tires I've used .. but they feel so good. :)
posted by kcm at 4:16 PM on July 6, 2010
Thanks for all the replies! A whole lot of good advice in here. :)
posted by base_16 at 6:45 PM on July 6, 2010
posted by base_16 at 6:45 PM on July 6, 2010
It looks like you're in San Francisco -- be sure to check out Box Dog Bikes on 14th @Guerrero. (I went in there once looking for a cleat, and they gave me one from the parts box.)
posted by phliar at 6:23 PM on July 7, 2010
posted by phliar at 6:23 PM on July 7, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
Get a bike fit.
Don't believe the hype on any super-duper technology. Bike technology hasn't changed since the like, the derailer. Weight savings in grams/ounces are bullshit.
Consider this sage advice - I can, will and have out bike'd you.
posted by alex_skazat at 12:10 AM on July 6, 2010