Be My Italian Guide

September 9, 2008 7:24 PM

I'm leaving for Europe this week and will be gone for about two and a half weeks. I've got a bunch of family in Germany so they'll be showing me around there, but I'm also planning on going to Italy for approximately five days, give or take (no rigid schedule). I was hoping some people could give me some first hand recommendations on what would really make my experience a blast.

I've done some reading and am thinking of visiting Rome and Florence, but nothing set in stone

I'm a bit of a foodie/cooking enthusiast, so I'd love to sample some great authentic food while there. I'm not a nature nut, but do love its beauty (hoping to hike some of the FichtelGebirge while in Germany). I would love to get a feel for the culture, if that's at all possible. Maybe some market places and such. But really, any recommendations would be appreciated. Not a huge museum guy, but am open to hitting one or two. Maybe some music or nightlife?

Also, what does everyone recommend on travel? Is the Eurail the way to go or are they're cheaper alternatives?

Thanks for any recommendations.

posted by defben to travel & transportation (4 comments total)

This is going to sound absolutely insane, but, just in order to take pictures and say you did it - go to the McDonalds in Rome. It's an exercise in cognitive dissonance. The interior is done in marble, and onyx, and huge mosaics made of tiny ceramic tiles, and you can get red, white, or rosé with your fries.

Other than that, the thing about Italian cuisine is that it's pretty much awesome all over the place. When I was in Florence, there was a little shop right at the end of the Ponte Vecchio (East side) where I would go every day and get a caprese sandwich (crusty bread, olive oil, fresh mozzarella cheese, basil leaves, tomatoes) and a glass of wine for lunch. Simple and perfect. In Rome, street vendors sell coconut quarters (husk on) that you eat with your hands. Be sure to try the gelato, wherever you are. And eat the CHEESE. Any cheese, anywhere, any time - except mozzarella di Bufala, unless that whole "The Mafia has poisoned our cheese!" thing is resolved at this point.

If you're willing to continue south from Florence to Rome and on, Positano is about three hours away down the Amalfi coast. Fabulous little town with great food.

Heck, now I want to go back.
posted by tzikeh at 7:52 PM on September 9, 2008

Stay out of Naples.
posted by Confess, Fletch at 8:18 PM on September 9, 2008

I lived in Italy for a while. The best restaurants that I found (Rome, Firenze, Bologna, Rimini, Milano Marittima, Ravenna, Forli among others) were generally one street back or more from the main touristy areas, and full of Italians (obviously) but especially the ones that looked in absolutely no hurry to leave. The ones with people lounging about and looking comfortable in, had by far the best food. When an Italian enjoys the dining experience enough to hang about and chat with the staff, then that is a great sign for good food. If there is someone that is very obviously the owner (rather than a manager) chatting to the customers, that is also a good sign, and normally unrelated to the cost of the average meal in the place (ie its not just the flashy places that have that personal touch).

Be nice if you don't speak the language, though. Being super polite and patient and wanting to try new things went a long way for me. I saw lots of noses being turned up at foreigners that tried to be pushy and generally being the 'tourist' that most people feel ashamed of when they speak your language.

The best food I had in Italy was in an unlikely looking and tiny coffee shop in a small town down the road from where I worked - I didn't understand the food being described to me (there was no menu as such) so I just shrugged and said "over to you" effectively. I ended up eating there pretty much every lunchtime till I left (two months later!), and had some of the most fantastic meals, with some amusing crappy Italian/only slightly better English conversations as he tried to tell me what was in the dish. Generally, not more than 6 or 7 things, total. Amazing food, and such variety from simple combinations of flavours and ingredients. The guy (I forget his name, damn me) was so enthusiastic about his food and wanted to show a foreigner his country's dishes that they were different almost every day and freshly prepared. He'd ask if I was back the next day, check that I liked the main ingredient (lots of hand waving, animal noises and describing, which was great fun trying to reach an understanding) and I'd turn up the next day to see what he had. I was, perhaps understandably, completely sold on Italian food from that day on. If you can even experience that passion for food and cooking ability even once, then any trip to Italy has been a success.

As for places, if you just stay away from the mainstream touristy places (except places like Venice and Rome, where you kind of have to go to them there) you will really enjoy it. Basically, avoid all the hotel areas and package holiday destinations as much as you can - theme pubs and mainstream nightclubs are as crap in Italy as anywhere else. If you want night spots, bear in mind that Italians don't go out until late (like 2300 or later) and things only really get busy at midnight or later. Dismissing a club as dead at 2330 can be foolish...

If I went back? I'd visit as many of the cities as possible, and try and hit some smaller villages on the way on the train, if I had the time. All of the places I mention I'd go back to (maybe missing out Rimini and Forli) but all had their charms. South of San Marino is a spectacular place called Urbino that is fantastic eye-candy, but only if you are passing. All of the classic Italian tourist/historic/architecture centres are well worth a visit too - even if it is not normally your thing. Just eat your way around them, as that works wonders in Italy. The problem with Italy, is the whole damn place is so good looking, that you can't really go wrong if you stay away from the industrial areas.
posted by Brockles at 8:20 PM on September 9, 2008 [1 favorite]

I was just in Italy in July. We went to Rome, Florence and Sorrento, with a day trip to Positano. I have to completely agree about Positano, it was gorgeous, and the food was great at Ristorante Buca di Bacco, but I think it might be too small for longer than a day trip, unless you are going to go boating or spend some time on the beach.

I have to disagree that the food is awesome everywhere. Plenty of places have been "touristified." My father, who was last in Italy 20 years prior was very disappointed in how it has changed. Many restaurants have "tourist" menus in English with limited options and higher prices, especially near the major tourist attractions.

The food is very regional. In Rome I'd recommend Saltimbocca, Roast Chicken with Potatoes, anything All'amatriciana and Carbonara. In Florence, the Mortadella, Steak. In Sorrento, anything with lemon, Brescaola. Gelati everywhere.

In Rome, I have made a google map: Rome Restaurants Theres also a place called "Hole in One" at the top of the spanish steps, to the right, that has a nice buffet of meats, cheeses, etc for lunch.

In Florence, two places really stood out for me, one felt very authentic with the kitchen completely visible and one dish prepared at a time by a single guy (literally). The other was more "cutting edge" food, where we were all quite scared by the menu, but the Asparagus and Raspberry Ravioli I had was perhaps the best meal I had in Italy (tied with the Grilled Chicken I had in Positano). I've forgotten the names of these places, so I'll have to come back and update this when I can ask my sister in the morning.

Aside from food, spend some time in the Villa Borghese in Rome (the park, not the museum). It was beautiful and huge, with fountains and statues hidden all over the place. In retrospect I wish I'd gone to the beaches outside of Rome and also wish I had gone to Frascati to a vineyard (next time).

I really loved Sorrento, it was much more laid back feeling than Rome or Florence (probably just for size) and the water views were beautiful. I think Capri is just a big tourist trap and the food there was less than impressive.
posted by miscbuff at 9:15 PM on September 9, 2008