1980 Toyota Controller

April 13, 2004 8:38 PM

I've been working on this 1980 Toyota Corolla to use for the summer, and im realizing its really easy to work on old ass cars. Here is the biggest problem:
Exhaust leak is happening in what sounds to me like the connection between the exahust heads and the tailpipe. I don't know for sure, but I don't think there is a crack in it. I would like to replace this myself, assuming its only a gasket. This car is 24 years old and I am worried about popping off those nuts. What should I do to make sure I don't break the bolts off removing the exhaust pipe? I am talking NO money. I don't even know how I am going to buy the gasket for this.

Also, I replaced the slave cylinder for the clutch and I have to pump it a little bit when I first get in to get pressure. Did I not bleed it properly?

Issue #2: Starter won't engage the engine. I can hear a whirring noise, so is it worth it to buy a new one or rebuild the current one? Is it relatively easy? I am a good learner and I will take time to work on this terribly reliable car. Damn thing just won't die.

posted by Keyser Soze to Travel & Transportation (11 answers total)

The bolts should come off with some penetrating oil (I like PB Blaster), some heat, and if it comes down to it, a cheater bar of some sort. However, after 25 years and tons of rust, chances are you're going to break one, if not all of them. However, because it's the exhaust system, I wouldn't really sweat it; you could go to Home Depot and replace it with literally 50 cents worth of bolts, and if you're feeling fancy, maybe some Nylock nuts. One suggestion, though; buy some anti-seize compound to apply on the bolts when reattaching everything, just in case you have to get back in there in the next 20 or so years.

As for the clutch, you definitely need to bleed it again.

And for the starter, it *sounds* like a faulty bendix, which I've never replaced, but have been led to believe is a fairly easy swap, assuming it's not a huge pain to get the whole starter unit out in the first place. However, rather than tearing it apart, my suggestion would be to research cross-compatibility across Toyota models for starters and try to grab a newer one off of a junked car in a boneyard. Shouldn't run you more than $10, if it's less than 10 years old, it should last you at least another 5, and chances are, if it's off a newer model, it's got more starting torque than a stock replacement for your 1980 model would anyhow.

Good luck!
posted by saladin at 8:59 PM on April 13, 2004

Response by poster: Damn. Thanks saladin. What happens if the bolts break off inside the "hole"?
posted by Keyser Soze at 9:18 PM on April 13, 2004

However, rather than tearing it apart, my suggestion would be to research cross-compatibility across Toyota models for starters and try to grab a newer one off of a junked car in a boneyard.

I used parts from a that-era Corolla for my that-era Tercel, so that might be an option. The whole starter area on the Tercel was easy to work on and around as well.
posted by j.edwards at 12:19 AM on April 14, 2004

Okay, trharlan raises a good point. Where exactly in the exhaust system is this bolted connection located? If there's the possibility of bolts breaking off inside their holes, we might be talking about the point of attachment between the exhaust manifold and the downpipe, or, God forbid, the exhaust manifold to the cylinder head itself. I had been envisioning a connection later in the system, which would be much less problematic in terms of a broken bolt.

So where's the bolt?
posted by saladin at 6:26 AM on April 14, 2004

If it's a summer car, why worry about it. Just keep the windows open and the car moving and you shouldn't have any problems, no?
posted by jmgorman at 7:15 AM on April 14, 2004

I had a 75 Datsun 280Z for 10 years (91-01). It was great to work on lots of room. I dealt with many old rusted parts. Spray some penetrating oil, leave it alone, spray some more, wait, and then try removing. If you need a cheater bar be sure you are square on so you don't round any nuts or bolt heads. Also try to "clean jerk" with a cheater bar, slow torque with leverage is what breaks things.
The exhaust should be one piece from tailpipe to exhaust header. The bolts that connect this long pipe to the header should be studs (metric). No head just a shaft with noticably different pitched threads on each end. In the middle is a smooth section to get a hold with visegrips so you can screw into the header. The nuts are special - either slot cut on top or slightly smooshed on top to apply pressure - they will not back off from vibration and heat. With all of that said it is more likely the stud will unscrew than break. If that happens you really should replace it with a new stud and nut from a dealership (about $5 for entire set).
Depending on the cost of a starter rebuild kit you might find a reman with lifetime warranty (autozone,pep boys,etc) is a better deal.
posted by sailormouth at 7:30 AM on April 14, 2004

My wife and I have a 1981 Toyota Corrola Tercel ( I think this was before they fully commited to the Tercel line). It's been a great car that she has had for the last 10 years. Her Dad got it from the original owner for $500. Anyway, you're right. It is a really easy car to work on and it's fun to play around with.

I would probably suggest that you get a rebuilt starter. Nothing sucks worse than pulling one out of a junk yard and having that one break a couple month's later. At least a factory rebuilt one will have a warranty.
posted by trbrts at 10:42 AM on April 14, 2004

I grit my teeth while typing this, but if all you care about is sealing the leak auto parts stores sell rolls of mesh tape saturated in some kind of heat activated resin. Wrap it around the suspected leak, drive around and presto! a lump of glop around your exhaust pipe!

*hangs head in shame for even knowing about this*
posted by skyscraper at 7:55 PM on April 14, 2004

By the way, if you think working on a 1980 car is easy, try a pre-1968 job. Aside from all those weird things inside the carburetor (and staying away from automatic transmissions) your intuition and a 50 page maintenance manual will do it.
posted by skyscraper at 8:07 PM on April 14, 2004

1) If you're talking about the manifold to cylinder head bolts - as long as you're not working around any fuel lines, try heat / let cool / penetrating oil / more heat.......repeat a few more times. Patience. Then :

2) use only light torque - 10 to 20 foot pounds. If no budge, repeat 1) if still no budge -

3) The shop trick would be an impact gun set on low power, to bust free the rust. This is preferable. Low power means low as possible. You can always go up.
posted by troutfishing at 11:34 PM on April 14, 2004

Also - try both metric and American socket sizes on the nuts. Rust tends to eat down the sizes. A 13mm, for example, can rust down into a true 1/2". If they really are manifold/head nuts, you don't want to strip them if you can avoid it.
posted by troutfishing at 11:37 PM on April 14, 2004