Small Batch Fruit/Booze Preserve Tips?
June 2, 2024 7:13 AM Subscribe
A year or so ago I tried an experiment with making rumtopf (well, confiture de vieux garcon) out of a portion of some of my CSA fruit haul. It didn't work so well, but I think that was because I was half-assing it. I wanted to try again this year; how can I ensure success?
Fortunately this is a low-stakes enterprise; I just wanted to play around with this a bit and see what happens. I get a crap-ton of fruit from my CSA and was thinking it'd be a fun way to use up any excess. The fruit would be what you can get at a farmer's market in the Northeast (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, maybe currants and gooseberries, then cherries, plums, peaches, pears, and apples).
So here's what I did last year and here's why I think things went wrong:
* I was using a regular mason jar and some glass weights, and I was tucking it behind the sofa. I used a plastic screw-top lid for the mason jar but had it loosely screwed on. I think the clear glass let in too much light, and the loose lid let too much air in. The glass weights were also not big enough across to keep the fruit below the surface of the booze; they were too small a diameter. I tucked them into a plastic bag in the hopes that it would make them easier to fish out and to add to the surface area, but that made it too fiddly.
* I am not sure that I got the ratio of sugar, fruit, and rum right. I was using a high-proof rum, and I think I used equal weights of sugar and fruit, and then just "enough to cover" whenever I added rum.
* I was adding to the jar every week, and I think fishing the weights out and fiddling around with things may have just introduced too much air into the crock each time.
Here's what I'm doing different THIS time already:
* I got a 2 liter stoneware crock, that has a water seal at the top; the crock itself has a lid that sits in a small channel, and you're meant to pour water inside the channel when you put the top on and the water creates another barrier. The crock also has some small weights that would cover the outer circumference of the fruit, and I could add one of the glass weights on top of that to cover the hole in the middle.
* I'm still going to do once-a-week additions, but smaller amounts each time.
Here's the things I'm especially looking for advice about:
* Okay, seriously how much fruit and sugar should I be using really? Equal amounts? Half as much sugar to the fruit?
* How long should I macerate the fruit before adding it to the crock?
* And what spirit should I use? Is high proof rum okay, or is regular rum okay? Any particular kind of rum? A blend of rum and vodka?
* And HOW MUCH each time? I had trouble figuring that out because it was supposed to be "to cover the fruit" but if the fruit floated that made it tough to figure out how much I should be putting in. Should I maybe add the weights before I add the spirit?
* One blog I read suggested "sterilizing" the weights each time for safety's sake. How would I do that, is a handwash in hot soapy water and a good rinse okay? Pouring boiling water over them for a bit? Or is that necessary?
* Any other advice on anything I'm not thinking of?
Thanks!
Fortunately this is a low-stakes enterprise; I just wanted to play around with this a bit and see what happens. I get a crap-ton of fruit from my CSA and was thinking it'd be a fun way to use up any excess. The fruit would be what you can get at a farmer's market in the Northeast (strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, maybe currants and gooseberries, then cherries, plums, peaches, pears, and apples).
So here's what I did last year and here's why I think things went wrong:
* I was using a regular mason jar and some glass weights, and I was tucking it behind the sofa. I used a plastic screw-top lid for the mason jar but had it loosely screwed on. I think the clear glass let in too much light, and the loose lid let too much air in. The glass weights were also not big enough across to keep the fruit below the surface of the booze; they were too small a diameter. I tucked them into a plastic bag in the hopes that it would make them easier to fish out and to add to the surface area, but that made it too fiddly.
* I am not sure that I got the ratio of sugar, fruit, and rum right. I was using a high-proof rum, and I think I used equal weights of sugar and fruit, and then just "enough to cover" whenever I added rum.
* I was adding to the jar every week, and I think fishing the weights out and fiddling around with things may have just introduced too much air into the crock each time.
Here's what I'm doing different THIS time already:
* I got a 2 liter stoneware crock, that has a water seal at the top; the crock itself has a lid that sits in a small channel, and you're meant to pour water inside the channel when you put the top on and the water creates another barrier. The crock also has some small weights that would cover the outer circumference of the fruit, and I could add one of the glass weights on top of that to cover the hole in the middle.
* I'm still going to do once-a-week additions, but smaller amounts each time.
Here's the things I'm especially looking for advice about:
* Okay, seriously how much fruit and sugar should I be using really? Equal amounts? Half as much sugar to the fruit?
* How long should I macerate the fruit before adding it to the crock?
* And what spirit should I use? Is high proof rum okay, or is regular rum okay? Any particular kind of rum? A blend of rum and vodka?
* And HOW MUCH each time? I had trouble figuring that out because it was supposed to be "to cover the fruit" but if the fruit floated that made it tough to figure out how much I should be putting in. Should I maybe add the weights before I add the spirit?
* One blog I read suggested "sterilizing" the weights each time for safety's sake. How would I do that, is a handwash in hot soapy water and a good rinse okay? Pouring boiling water over them for a bit? Or is that necessary?
* Any other advice on anything I'm not thinking of?
Thanks!
I make this every year so can probably help. But first, you left out the most important part: What makes you say it didn't work so well?
posted by HotToddy at 7:26 AM on June 2 [2 favorites]
posted by HotToddy at 7:26 AM on June 2 [2 favorites]
Marmiton is my French recipe site of choice. This one is fancy and layered but dead simple. It calls for 1.5kg of sugar to 2.5kg fruit and enough alcohol to cover it, no weights or anything other than a big jar. I know in Europe reusing grocery store jars is a thing so I imagine it's just a big ol ordinary glass jar or maybe one with a latch and gasket.
Another French recipe calls for equal weights fruit and sugar and enough eau de vie to cover. None of the recipes I saw call for anything other than brandy or eau de vie, this one actually called out you don't want to change to flavor of the fruit.
One thing I noticed is that they generally call for fruit then sugar, not stirred. I think the weight of the sugar holds the fruit down. It's also meant to be eaten at Christmas or New Year, I imagine to savor the flavors of the summer.
N.B. All links above are in French.
posted by fiercekitten at 7:54 AM on June 2
Another French recipe calls for equal weights fruit and sugar and enough eau de vie to cover. None of the recipes I saw call for anything other than brandy or eau de vie, this one actually called out you don't want to change to flavor of the fruit.
One thing I noticed is that they generally call for fruit then sugar, not stirred. I think the weight of the sugar holds the fruit down. It's also meant to be eaten at Christmas or New Year, I imagine to savor the flavors of the summer.
N.B. All links above are in French.
posted by fiercekitten at 7:54 AM on June 2
Best answer: Anyway, pending your answer, here is what I do:
-I use a regular stoneware pickling crock, the kind that comes with two ceramic semi-circular weights and a glazed ceramic lid. It doesn't have any particular sealing technology. Before I got that, I used to use clear glass containers and it always worked fine, although I kept it in a dark place. I don't think it needs to be particularly air tight.
-For the rum, use one part Bacardi 151 to two parts of 80-proof rum (I use dark rum). All high-proof rum will be unpleasantly strong, and all 80-proof will allow too much fermentation.
-For the sugar, for the first batch use equal weights of sugar and fruit. Let it macerate until the fruit releases some juice--2-3 hours? For subsequent additions I use half as much sugar as fruit.
-For subsequent additions of alcohol, use as little as possible while still covering the fruit, because no matter what you are going to end up with more liquid than you really want when the fruit shrinks. Focus your efforts on keeping the fruit submerged.
-The advice to sterilize the weights every time strikes me as ridiculous. That's what the booze is for.
-These are the fruits you're planning to use: "strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, maybe currants and gooseberries, then cherries, plums, peaches, pears, and apples." Think of your fruits as a pyramid, with strawberries and cherries as the base. These are the ones that add the most flavor and color and have the nicest texture at the end. Once you have these in, then be selective about quality when adding other fruits. Don't add them just to have a lot of variety. Only use really good, flavorful fruits. Of the ones you listed, you should strike raspberries (texture is terrible after they give up their liquid), blueberries (they become bitter), and apples (they just won't work). Go overboard with strawberries and cherries. And add pineapple at the very end--it's the traditional finishing touch and is really good. The other fruits are really just for the sake of form. They're okay but they get kind of weird in texture and you can't really discern the individual flavors once they're so boozy. I mean, go ahead and use them, but be aware that it's really all about the strawberries, cherries, and pineapple.
-The sugar is going to settle into a sludge at the bottom. I sometimes stir it up and sometimes don't. It doesn't seem to make a difference either way.
-As for how often to add fruit, I don't think it really matters. The keys are to have your alcohol strong enough but not too strong, to add sufficient sugar, to keep the fruit submerged, to use the right fruits in the right proportions, and to keep it in a dark and cool place.
-This makes a great little gift to bring to dinner parties during the holidays. It's pretty, people like to talk about it, and usually ends up getting served as an extra treat after dessert.
posted by HotToddy at 7:59 AM on June 2
-I use a regular stoneware pickling crock, the kind that comes with two ceramic semi-circular weights and a glazed ceramic lid. It doesn't have any particular sealing technology. Before I got that, I used to use clear glass containers and it always worked fine, although I kept it in a dark place. I don't think it needs to be particularly air tight.
-For the rum, use one part Bacardi 151 to two parts of 80-proof rum (I use dark rum). All high-proof rum will be unpleasantly strong, and all 80-proof will allow too much fermentation.
-For the sugar, for the first batch use equal weights of sugar and fruit. Let it macerate until the fruit releases some juice--2-3 hours? For subsequent additions I use half as much sugar as fruit.
-For subsequent additions of alcohol, use as little as possible while still covering the fruit, because no matter what you are going to end up with more liquid than you really want when the fruit shrinks. Focus your efforts on keeping the fruit submerged.
-The advice to sterilize the weights every time strikes me as ridiculous. That's what the booze is for.
-These are the fruits you're planning to use: "strawberries, raspberries, blueberries, maybe currants and gooseberries, then cherries, plums, peaches, pears, and apples." Think of your fruits as a pyramid, with strawberries and cherries as the base. These are the ones that add the most flavor and color and have the nicest texture at the end. Once you have these in, then be selective about quality when adding other fruits. Don't add them just to have a lot of variety. Only use really good, flavorful fruits. Of the ones you listed, you should strike raspberries (texture is terrible after they give up their liquid), blueberries (they become bitter), and apples (they just won't work). Go overboard with strawberries and cherries. And add pineapple at the very end--it's the traditional finishing touch and is really good. The other fruits are really just for the sake of form. They're okay but they get kind of weird in texture and you can't really discern the individual flavors once they're so boozy. I mean, go ahead and use them, but be aware that it's really all about the strawberries, cherries, and pineapple.
-The sugar is going to settle into a sludge at the bottom. I sometimes stir it up and sometimes don't. It doesn't seem to make a difference either way.
-As for how often to add fruit, I don't think it really matters. The keys are to have your alcohol strong enough but not too strong, to add sufficient sugar, to keep the fruit submerged, to use the right fruits in the right proportions, and to keep it in a dark and cool place.
-This makes a great little gift to bring to dinner parties during the holidays. It's pretty, people like to talk about it, and usually ends up getting served as an extra treat after dessert.
posted by HotToddy at 7:59 AM on June 2
Response by poster: you left out the most important part: What makes you say it didn't work so well?
I couldn't keep the fruit submerged, and some of the fruit I was using went completely to mush. The whole endeavor also seemed really messy, too, and I didn't trust the fact that the fruit wasn't staying submerged no matter what I did. So with the completely mushed-out fruit and the fact that it wasn't staying submerged, and my own inexperience, I just skipped it. I also had the impression things were supposed to retain their own color a bit better, but I'm suspecting I may be wrong about that.
The crock I got does come with those semi-circular weights. Do I need to worry about the fact that there would be that hole in the middle?
And thank you for the notes on the fruit. I did use raspberries last year; good tip about leaving those out. Same with the blueberries. Anything else on the list that doesn't hold up too well? Like, I've read something about gooseberries maybe not being a good idea?
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 8:06 AM on June 2
I couldn't keep the fruit submerged, and some of the fruit I was using went completely to mush. The whole endeavor also seemed really messy, too, and I didn't trust the fact that the fruit wasn't staying submerged no matter what I did. So with the completely mushed-out fruit and the fact that it wasn't staying submerged, and my own inexperience, I just skipped it. I also had the impression things were supposed to retain their own color a bit better, but I'm suspecting I may be wrong about that.
The crock I got does come with those semi-circular weights. Do I need to worry about the fact that there would be that hole in the middle?
And thank you for the notes on the fruit. I did use raspberries last year; good tip about leaving those out. Same with the blueberries. Anything else on the list that doesn't hold up too well? Like, I've read something about gooseberries maybe not being a good idea?
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 8:06 AM on June 2
Losing color and becoming mushy (for many fruits) are to be expected. Rumtopf is also called bachelor's jam! Fruits like plums or raspberries will definitely end up mushy (as they would when canned). I mostly just use cherries.
I've never had any problem just using a mason jar and not worrying too much if some fruit isn't always completely submerged at first (a gentle shaking will mix them up at least). But if you're using a closed mason jar, there's plenty of alcohol vapour in the air space, so who cares. I've never understood using an open container, as alcohol evaporates very readily. Sometimes you have to burp the jars a little if you have fermentation going on or just leave the rings a little loose so they can burp themselves.
posted by ssg at 9:35 AM on June 2
I've never had any problem just using a mason jar and not worrying too much if some fruit isn't always completely submerged at first (a gentle shaking will mix them up at least). But if you're using a closed mason jar, there's plenty of alcohol vapour in the air space, so who cares. I've never understood using an open container, as alcohol evaporates very readily. Sometimes you have to burp the jars a little if you have fermentation going on or just leave the rings a little loose so they can burp themselves.
posted by ssg at 9:35 AM on June 2
Best answer: The fruits generally change color--strawberries get lighter, cherries get darker, and everything else takes on a reddish hue from the strawberries and cherries.
I'm not sure why your fruit went to mush. Mine generally gets very firm. It's almost a dehydration process. I've never used gooseberries so can't comment on that. Plums and peaches get kind of chewy. I'm not sure if I've ever used pears but I would imagine the texture wouldn't be that great. Green grapes come out well so might consider adding those. I know it's aesthetically pleasing to use only fruits from the CSA or only local fruits or whatever and not grocery store things like pineapple and grapes, but you'd be missing out on some of the best parts (especially the pineapple).
Oh--for the cherries, leave the pits in and just warn people about them. The pits contribute an almondy flavor. Less work too.
About submersion--well, that's one reason to skip fiddly things like currants because it is indeed very annoying when they escape your weights. A few floaters haven't ever had a dire consequence for me but a thought is to cut a sheet of food-safe plastic, maybe a rigid plastic with a few small holes in it, and lay that down before the weights. I agree that it is extremely vexing.
posted by HotToddy at 9:53 AM on June 2
I'm not sure why your fruit went to mush. Mine generally gets very firm. It's almost a dehydration process. I've never used gooseberries so can't comment on that. Plums and peaches get kind of chewy. I'm not sure if I've ever used pears but I would imagine the texture wouldn't be that great. Green grapes come out well so might consider adding those. I know it's aesthetically pleasing to use only fruits from the CSA or only local fruits or whatever and not grocery store things like pineapple and grapes, but you'd be missing out on some of the best parts (especially the pineapple).
Oh--for the cherries, leave the pits in and just warn people about them. The pits contribute an almondy flavor. Less work too.
About submersion--well, that's one reason to skip fiddly things like currants because it is indeed very annoying when they escape your weights. A few floaters haven't ever had a dire consequence for me but a thought is to cut a sheet of food-safe plastic, maybe a rigid plastic with a few small holes in it, and lay that down before the weights. I agree that it is extremely vexing.
posted by HotToddy at 9:53 AM on June 2
Response by poster: Hot Toddy, you have just reminded me that my community garden has grapes I can use!
I am already thinking of calling this resolved, and HT, I may memail you with progress updates over the summer if that's okay.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 10:17 AM on June 2
I am already thinking of calling this resolved, and HT, I may memail you with progress updates over the summer if that's okay.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 10:17 AM on June 2
Response by poster: HotToddy, I've sent an initial Memail with a couple questions....
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 5:55 AM on June 4
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 5:55 AM on June 4
Response by poster: Okay, I'll ask in here!
For the sugar, for the first batch use equal weights of sugar and fruit. Let it macerate until the fruit releases some juice--2-3 hours? For subsequent additions I use half as much sugar as fruit.
Is that "half as much sugar as fruit" also in weight, or by volume?
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:23 AM on June 6
For the sugar, for the first batch use equal weights of sugar and fruit. Let it macerate until the fruit releases some juice--2-3 hours? For subsequent additions I use half as much sugar as fruit.
Is that "half as much sugar as fruit" also in weight, or by volume?
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:23 AM on June 6
Sorry I missed this. I replied to your Memail, but for the benefit of all the answer to this question is: By weight.
posted by HotToddy at 9:50 AM on June 6
posted by HotToddy at 9:50 AM on June 6
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posted by EmpressCallipygos at 7:16 AM on June 2