France in February for a week
February 4, 2024 3:31 PM   Subscribe

Planning to see Paris and Nice but looking for suggestions

It's my first time traveling to France this February!! I am fluent in French (I live in Quebec) but have never visited France and I am very excited. Hopefully the Parisians will find my Quebec accent cute and not rednecky (LOL).

I will be there for just one week and looking for tips from people who have been there before. I am especially interested in history and literature (ie: when I went to Dublin I loved visiting the Oscar Wilde museum, in England I went to Bath to see the Roman baths like in Northanger Abbey, in Colombia I visited places made famous by Gabriel Garcia Marquez etc)

This is my plan so far for the week

Fly into Paris, stay two nights, then take the high-speed train down to Nice, stay there 3 nights, then take the train back to Paris and stay for another two nights. Is the train from Paris to Nice a nice experience? Is two 5-hour train trips in one week too much time spent traveling?

So far my plan for Paris is to visit museums (Louvre, Musée d'Orsay) and café (so far. . . I've reserved at Café Procope and Cafe de Flore). I also want to visit Montmartre and see the big cathedral, perhaps visit Père Lachaise cemetary. I'm excited to walk around all day long and just see things on foot. Are there any walking tours related to the French revolution? I've heard most of the city is pretty walkable, what is the metro like?

In Nice, I don't have anything planned yet besides wanting to have a few days of relaxation (warm-ish weather) and wanting to see the Mediterranean. . . I had trouble deciding between Marseille, Nice and Montpellier, any opinions on those ?

Thanks in advance!
posted by winterportage to Travel & Transportation around France (12 answers total) 2 users marked this as a favorite
 
It depends on what kind of traveler you are, but I think 2 lengthwise train trips during a one week trip might not be worth the time. However, if you're taking night trains, it's an excellent way to travel and save on a hotel room. (As a woman traveling alone, I was always a little afraid of riding an overnight train but YMMV).
There's a lot to do in Paris, more than enough to occupy 8 weeks, much less 2. Though I understand the pull of visiting Nice, for it's gorgeous sun, especially at this time of the year.
posted by honey badger at 4:11 PM on February 4, 2024 [1 favorite]


Nice is excellent for chilling out. There's a stunningly beautiful walk around the peninsula of St-Jean-Cap-Ferrat. You can get the (very reasonably priced) train along the coast, or up to the astonishing medieval town of Entrevaux. Villefranche-sur-mer is great for ambling around (it's maybe 20m from Nice on the train), or walk up Mont Boron for some great views. Nice old town itself is a couple of days worth of ambling about and trying interesting food, or you can wander over to the port if you want to see some very fancy yachts. I've spent a week in Nice several times now and still not done all the things I'd like to do there!
posted by quacks like a duck at 4:54 PM on February 4, 2024


If you do cut back to Marseille, that will reduce your train ride down to 3 hours each way on the smooth high speed lines, and cut out the last 2 hours going slowly along the winding Mediterranean coast. Mediterranean-wise, it has the old port, plenty of seafront, a few inhabited islands in the bay and the Calanques national park just to the south, and it does have masses to see. But it's not built around the promenade like Nice, so it's a different experience.

But I do have to say that 5 hours on a TGV would also not be an issue for me. They're quiet and comfortable trains. On the other hand, I've not used them, but SNCF's Intercités de Nuit don't look great to me, so if it were me, I'd choose to go during the day.
posted by ambrosen at 5:00 PM on February 4, 2024


Montemartre - consider visiting Sacré-Cœur stupid early (think 7:00 AM) when the crowds are minimal. Just keep in mind that there may be a mass at that time. Stop at a café, then take a wander through Montemartre Cemetery and all the winding streets. If you find yourself outside the Mairie du 18e, there is a most excellent brasserie called Le Nord Sud nearby.
posted by theBigRedKittyPurrs at 5:49 PM on February 4, 2024 [2 favorites]


If you do go to Sacré-Cœur at the left side of the church, but down a level (like basement level) they sell tickets to go up to the top and it is the best views in the city in my opinion and I love climbing to the roof top. So recommend that.

Shakespeare and Company Bookstore on the Left Bank across from Notre Dame is amazing and has beds built in to the store where various literary folks have stayed. The Left Bank in general is literary.

The Catacombs are cool but make sure you book a ticket the day before!

I love the metro - find it very easy to use and get around on.

Enjoy!
posted by azalea_chant at 8:23 PM on February 4, 2024 [1 favorite]


I had trouble deciding between Marseille, Nice and Montpellier, any opinions on those ?
I think they are all good choices. Montpellier - where I lived for a while, is a smaller city than the other two with an interesting mix of modern and old. It has many students which give it a lively feel. Unlike Nice or Marseille, it is near but not on the Mediterranean. It would take the least time to reach by train - but I think if I wanted the most striking first experience of the Med - I would choose Nice.

Is two 5-hour train trips in one week too much time spent traveling?
I would say, "No" - the TGV train trips are fast and pleasant. You get to see a lot of the country out of your window and, after intense days of walking around either city - you might want to sleep a little. If you could travel at night - then that might be worth considering, as pointed out. Note that details on the link about the different types of sleeping compartment and the fact that you can pay a supplement to get a whole compartment to yourself, should you wish.
posted by rongorongo at 11:18 PM on February 4, 2024


Best answer: Plan your trip to the Louvre, there is no way you can see everything. Avoid Mona Lisa. She's behind glass, you can't see her and the crowds are stupid.
La Sainte Chapelle is perhaps the most beautiful space in the world. Go early for the morning light.
Otherwise, just walk around. Eat at a small bistro. Visit Shakespeare and Co. Visit a market. Walk around in the Tuileries. Take the metro so you can see some different areas. If you really need to do something, go to Versaille.

The decision between Nice, Marseille and Montpellier is difficult, but my vote goes to Nice. Even though I recently found a good reason to go to Montpellier (which I have forgotten). The train is very nice, I'd go. Maybe if you can spend the money on a private compartment, take the night train in one direction. (compare to what you would otherwise spend on a hotel room). Night trains are fun, but at least I am too old for sharing compartments with strangers.

In general, just relax. Pretend you'll be coming back every year from now. Don't race around checking boxes. The most enjoyable thing about France is the atmosphere.
posted by mumimor at 12:12 AM on February 5, 2024 [2 favorites]


Sacré Cœur is a great suggestion, and the metro is an easy way to get around if the walk is too far, although you are right in thinking it’s a walkable city. Download the Citymapper app for looking up transport, and you can get a Navigo Easy travel card for 2€ from the ticket office at a metro station or Paris train station, then you can load tickets onto it, there are multi day travel cards to buy, or a ‘book’ of 10 tickets.

Shakespeare and Co will have a line outside at peak tourist times like the weekends. My favourite art gallery/museum is Musée de l’Orangerie.

Parisians are more likely to find a Quebec accent funny than redneck so don’t worry, you’ll just be appreciated for speaking the language.
posted by ellieBOA at 4:04 AM on February 5, 2024


Best answer: Two 5-hour train rides in a week should be fine. I regularly do London-Amsterdam over a weekend (which is 4 hours each way by train) and it's a nice way to catch up on reading. However, keep in mind that if you travel in the middle of the day you essentially lose a day of your trip because you're not likely to do anything else that day. Doing that twice might make you feel like you lost too much time, so I would try to fine trains early in the morning or late at night so that you have some of the day left to do non-train things.
posted by easternblot at 4:16 AM on February 5, 2024 [1 favorite]


Sainte Chappelle and the Orsay are the two best things, and the Louvre is pretty much loved to death.

My personal favorite view is from the top of the Arc de Triomphe -- another good climb (200+ steps), but totally worth it.
posted by wenestvedt at 4:56 AM on February 5, 2024 [2 favorites]


I'm with honeybadger upthread, too short a time for two destinations. You'll be spending way too many hours on trains (getting to and from stations), checking in, checking out, packing, repacking, etc. not to mention doing all these things while jet lagged.

Your Paris itinerary doesn't account for walking, riding Metro to and from the sites. It would be much more rewarding to stay in Paris the entire time and do all those wonderful things at a slower pace with café breaks, park walks, naps to recharge.

Here's a link to a Mefi thread for Paris in summer, not when you're going but some great advice anyway.

Literary Paris--go to the splendid Biblioteque Nationale, Shakespeare & Company bookstore and wonderful short visits to the houses of famous writers.
posted by Elsie at 6:26 AM on February 5, 2024


Best answer: I think the train aspect is fine and that Nice is worth the visit. The TGV is fine and you'll be able to see some nice stuff from it. I would take an evening train - there's one that leaves Paris Gare de Lyon at 17:22 and gets into Nice at 22:55. The train station in Nice is pretty conveniently located for staying in the newer area and it's safe to walk around Nice at night by yourself, so you would be using up the darker hours when you'd just be getting dinner and winding down for the evening rather than peak sight-seeing hours. You wouldn't be able to see as much from the train when it's dark but you could make up for that by taking a morning train on your way back.

In Nice, I wouldn't bother with taking trips to towns nearby; you'll want to just wander around and soak it up. It's a fairly small city and has a lovely waterfront promenade (you can see even more by using their bike share if you cycle; they have awesome cycle paths to pretty much everywhere). Please try socca while there - Chez Rene Socca is awesome and has a cute little courtyard where you can eat it and drink wine. Hike up the Colline du Chateau just to the east of the old town for views and to see the park up there, which is lovely. If you can time your visit for their antique market (Sundays), that would be ideal but they have markets in Cours Saleya most days of the week.

Most people my partner (who is fluently bilingual) and I (proficiently bilingual) have spoken with in France have been totally great about our accents. If you are an anglophone who speaks French they'll probably be more on the impressed side that you speak French at all, since they'll first think you're American but then once the French comes out realize you're Canadian.
posted by urbanlenny at 8:01 AM on February 5, 2024 [1 favorite]


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