West Coast Amtrak - the start of a beautiful vacation?
July 25, 2023 10:55 PM Subscribe
Thinking about starting out our vacation trip to Spokane Washington by taking Amtrak - the Coast Starlight from the Bay Area to Portland and then the Empire Builder from Portland to Spokane. Would that be a great way to start a vacation or would it be exhausting, uncomfortable and expensive?
I had been reading about Amtrak fans who rave about the train as a relaxing way to see beautiful scenery from the comfort of your train seat. We will be going to Spokane Washington sometime in the next twelve months. What would it be like to take Coast Starlight from the Bay Area to Portland OR and then the Empire Builder from Portland to Spokane?
- Does that route have amazing scenery or is it mostly just industrial and suburban landscapes?
- What time of year would be best for this trip?
- We have good budget for the trip. My first thought was a roomette for two people for the longer, overnight the Coast Starlight segment and then coach seats for seven hour Empire Builder. Would it be worth the money to upgrade? If it would make the trip much nicer, we could spring for the larger bedroom and/or a roomette on the second leg.
- Any other tips or suggestions?
I had been reading about Amtrak fans who rave about the train as a relaxing way to see beautiful scenery from the comfort of your train seat. We will be going to Spokane Washington sometime in the next twelve months. What would it be like to take Coast Starlight from the Bay Area to Portland OR and then the Empire Builder from Portland to Spokane?
- Does that route have amazing scenery or is it mostly just industrial and suburban landscapes?
- What time of year would be best for this trip?
- We have good budget for the trip. My first thought was a roomette for two people for the longer, overnight the Coast Starlight segment and then coach seats for seven hour Empire Builder. Would it be worth the money to upgrade? If it would make the trip much nicer, we could spring for the larger bedroom and/or a roomette on the second leg.
- Any other tips or suggestions?
It was years ago, but I loved my journey on the Coast Starlight up to Seattle. Waking up as the train trundled through amazing scenery was great, and I'd have enjoyed it even more if I'd been in a cabin with a proper bed! I wouldn't bother with a room for a daytime leg, or a larger room.
Looks like you can reserve a spot for meals in the dining car - do that. Dining while watching the roof go by is great.
I've been New York to California (in three legs) and Houston to California to Seattle (in a couple) and, yes, it's slow, and can have boring times (West Texas doesn't change much), but that's part of it. Take headphones, gaze at the scenery, relax!
posted by fabius at 12:26 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
Looks like you can reserve a spot for meals in the dining car - do that. Dining while watching the roof go by is great.
I've been New York to California (in three legs) and Houston to California to Seattle (in a couple) and, yes, it's slow, and can have boring times (West Texas doesn't change much), but that's part of it. Take headphones, gaze at the scenery, relax!
posted by fabius at 12:26 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
I took my kids on the Coast Starlight from LA to Portland back in ~2012. It was amazing and everyone loved it, but we should have done it one way only. The duration combined with the general rickety-ness of Amtrak makes 30+ hours more than enough. The unpredictable delays that can accumulate when freight trains get priority can be a bit grating when you're already 24+ hours into the journey.
If you can afford the upgrade, opt for as much comfort as you can get. Roomettes were a huge splurge for us at the time, and they were worth it. I don't think I could handle the same trip in just an upright seat in a shared train car.
The dining car was the highlight. I/we met so many strangers, from near and far. You've got so much time available and people are taking this trip for the sake of the trip. No one's in the middle of a boring, busy commute. People want to chat and pass the time enjoying it all together! I spilled a glass of wine on two very kind Japanese tourists, and I ended up buying them dinner as an apology... and we still keep in touch via email (which will come in handy when I get to Japan).
Seasonal transitions are going to be great times for the journey. We went in AUgust, if memory serves, which wasn't bad at all... it was just a bit hot and stuffy when the train would stop. We were all talking about how nice it would be to have the added coziness of trundling along the tracks in the rain, maybe late enough in the season that the higher elevations would have some snow. But really I don't think there's a bad time to go. No matter the season, there will be risks of long periods of fog, or smoke, or poor visibility. But even then you're in a clunky rolling hotel so there's still a lot to enjoy.
I'm envious! Have fun!
posted by late afternoon dreaming hotel at 2:19 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
If you can afford the upgrade, opt for as much comfort as you can get. Roomettes were a huge splurge for us at the time, and they were worth it. I don't think I could handle the same trip in just an upright seat in a shared train car.
The dining car was the highlight. I/we met so many strangers, from near and far. You've got so much time available and people are taking this trip for the sake of the trip. No one's in the middle of a boring, busy commute. People want to chat and pass the time enjoying it all together! I spilled a glass of wine on two very kind Japanese tourists, and I ended up buying them dinner as an apology... and we still keep in touch via email (which will come in handy when I get to Japan).
Seasonal transitions are going to be great times for the journey. We went in AUgust, if memory serves, which wasn't bad at all... it was just a bit hot and stuffy when the train would stop. We were all talking about how nice it would be to have the added coziness of trundling along the tracks in the rain, maybe late enough in the season that the higher elevations would have some snow. But really I don't think there's a bad time to go. No matter the season, there will be risks of long periods of fog, or smoke, or poor visibility. But even then you're in a clunky rolling hotel so there's still a lot to enjoy.
I'm envious! Have fun!
posted by late afternoon dreaming hotel at 2:19 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
I took the Coast Starlight round trip from Oakland to Santa Barbara in Dec 2019. I had nothing to complain about except I didn't bring enough munchies with me. In Jan 2022 the round trip was from Oakland to Union Station in Los Angeles. Only thing I didn't like about that was I hadn't brought enough of the right clothes to stay warm enough.
As for good views, Amtrak has a map with descriptions of what can be seen at several locations between Salinas and Ventura. The title of the map was added by the Mercury News. I've no idea if Amtrak has similar maps for the routes you are considering.
posted by Homer42 at 4:20 AM on July 26, 2023
As for good views, Amtrak has a map with descriptions of what can be seen at several locations between Salinas and Ventura. The title of the map was added by the Mercury News. I've no idea if Amtrak has similar maps for the routes you are considering.
posted by Homer42 at 4:20 AM on July 26, 2023
I can't speak to the specific segment, but Mr. eirias and I have done a couple of overnights on Amtrak, about ten years ago. We did splurge on the roomette and did not regret it, although I will say that it was still not good sleep in a tiny bunk bed, just better than it would have been in coach. I agree with late afternoon dreaming hotel that pleasant chats with strangers in the dining car really made the experience.
In terms of stress, the biggest thing I remember was that everything was late for reasons that were never explained, but I still found it much less stressful than air travel because I could get up and walk around. I would say that if you do any segment by train, you shouldn't assume that your nominal arrival time will be reflected in reality. Build some flexibility into your plans on the first day.
posted by eirias at 4:30 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
In terms of stress, the biggest thing I remember was that everything was late for reasons that were never explained, but I still found it much less stressful than air travel because I could get up and walk around. I would say that if you do any segment by train, you shouldn't assume that your nominal arrival time will be reflected in reality. Build some flexibility into your plans on the first day.
posted by eirias at 4:30 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
In August about five years ago I did a solo trip LA to Portland on the Coast Starlight, which had an overnight, and then Portland to Seattle a couple days later. I didn’t want to shell out for a roomette, but I did shell out for business class between LA and Portland and that was easier to get some rest than coach would’ve been.
I had a great time and will definitely do long haul train travel again, but absolutely heed the cautions about random delays. We spent three hours just sitting outside Eugene and got in so late I needed to change my plan for Portland. We also left Portland hours late and got into Seattle at like 2am, which I’m sure my AirBnB host appreciated. I was on vacation so it wasn’t a huge deal, but it’s a little grating to be stuck on a stopped train 24+ hours in with no idea when you’re going to move again.
But echoing that I have great memories of that trip, like eating pancakes with strangers in the dining car with the sun coming up over Mount Shasta. If you’re going northbound sit on the left side for the best views, and check if they’ll have an observation car. And bring so many snacks.
posted by jameaterblues at 7:28 AM on July 26, 2023
I had a great time and will definitely do long haul train travel again, but absolutely heed the cautions about random delays. We spent three hours just sitting outside Eugene and got in so late I needed to change my plan for Portland. We also left Portland hours late and got into Seattle at like 2am, which I’m sure my AirBnB host appreciated. I was on vacation so it wasn’t a huge deal, but it’s a little grating to be stuck on a stopped train 24+ hours in with no idea when you’re going to move again.
But echoing that I have great memories of that trip, like eating pancakes with strangers in the dining car with the sun coming up over Mount Shasta. If you’re going northbound sit on the left side for the best views, and check if they’ll have an observation car. And bring so many snacks.
posted by jameaterblues at 7:28 AM on July 26, 2023
There are nice views from Klamath Lakes and as you cross the cascades into Eugene, all in daylight on the northbound trip. And the train has a nice view of the top of Willamette Falls as you come into Oregon City (And of industrial decay, to be sure. )
I have only ever done PDX <> Oakland with a roommette (and generally in November) and it’s been getting jankier over time but I would definitely ride it again.
The views will be better on the main/upper level of the train, but if you are on the lower level you have a chance of cleaning the outside of your windows at a station if they aren’t good. Although definitely the west/northbound left side of the train is a better option and those windows won’t be accessible ever. So never mind.
posted by janell at 9:18 AM on July 26, 2023
I have only ever done PDX <> Oakland with a roommette (and generally in November) and it’s been getting jankier over time but I would definitely ride it again.
The views will be better on the main/upper level of the train, but if you are on the lower level you have a chance of cleaning the outside of your windows at a station if they aren’t good. Although definitely the west/northbound left side of the train is a better option and those windows won’t be accessible ever. So never mind.
posted by janell at 9:18 AM on July 26, 2023
Not sure about this particular train and route, but upper bunks can be claustrophobia inducing.
I love being able to walk down to the dining car and have a decent sit down restaurant style meal on a train.
The hardest part of long train journeys for me is when the tracks run parallel to a line running tandem freight cars (where there are stacked box cars) being pulled by a train with multiple engines running to handle the load. If they are going in the opposite direction to your train on a close parallel track, the noise and pressure can be overwhelming, especially the third train in two hours while you are supposedly sleeping.
I strongly prefer trains over flying because they are much better for the environment and there is so much more space to walk around. A plane trapped on the tarmac can quickly turn miserably hot during summer as all they can do to alleviate the temperature rising is open the doors. A passenger train is designed to have comfortable temperatures, whatever the weather.
In my experience train tracks run through more interesting countryside and more interesting city neighborhoods than highways do.
posted by Jane the Brown at 2:54 PM on July 26, 2023
I love being able to walk down to the dining car and have a decent sit down restaurant style meal on a train.
The hardest part of long train journeys for me is when the tracks run parallel to a line running tandem freight cars (where there are stacked box cars) being pulled by a train with multiple engines running to handle the load. If they are going in the opposite direction to your train on a close parallel track, the noise and pressure can be overwhelming, especially the third train in two hours while you are supposedly sleeping.
I strongly prefer trains over flying because they are much better for the environment and there is so much more space to walk around. A plane trapped on the tarmac can quickly turn miserably hot during summer as all they can do to alleviate the temperature rising is open the doors. A passenger train is designed to have comfortable temperatures, whatever the weather.
In my experience train tracks run through more interesting countryside and more interesting city neighborhoods than highways do.
posted by Jane the Brown at 2:54 PM on July 26, 2023
Cannot speak to the CS leg, but the Empire Builder does not include WiFi.
posted by yclipse at 5:46 AM on July 27, 2023
posted by yclipse at 5:46 AM on July 27, 2023
I have done Minneapolis -> Seattle -> Oakland, but you arrive in Seattle first thing in the morning, so I wasn't really awake for the Spokane -> Seattle leg. I found the Coast Starlight scenery to be less interesting (a lot of time in fairly close forest), but, again, I was asleep for much of the portion of the journey one is awake for heading north. Like Jane the Brown said, the scenery on the train tends to be a step up from highway scenery.
If you can afford the roomette, do it, but it's honestly not bad if you have a regular seat. The one thing I haven't seen someone mention is that Amtrak gets cold overnight (I assume they don't adjust the thermostat despite the outside air being cooler at night or something). I don't know what the roomette bedding is like, but you want to bring a blanket and some warm socks for sleeping in the seats. (My blanket was on the small side, so it was hard to keep my feet under it). Ten or so years ago, when I did the trip, people with rooms on the Coast Starlight had access to the Pacific Parlour Car (which had additional food options, I believe), but those have been retired.
There's loads of good info on the rail fan forums (or there was a decade ago).
I do hope you give us an update -- I'm soon going to have cause to travel between Oakland and Seattle more than once in ten years and I'd like a report on the current status of the Coast Starlight experience.
posted by hoyland at 9:12 AM on July 29, 2023
If you can afford the roomette, do it, but it's honestly not bad if you have a regular seat. The one thing I haven't seen someone mention is that Amtrak gets cold overnight (I assume they don't adjust the thermostat despite the outside air being cooler at night or something). I don't know what the roomette bedding is like, but you want to bring a blanket and some warm socks for sleeping in the seats. (My blanket was on the small side, so it was hard to keep my feet under it). Ten or so years ago, when I did the trip, people with rooms on the Coast Starlight had access to the Pacific Parlour Car (which had additional food options, I believe), but those have been retired.
There's loads of good info on the rail fan forums (or there was a decade ago).
I do hope you give us an update -- I'm soon going to have cause to travel between Oakland and Seattle more than once in ten years and I'd like a report on the current status of the Coast Starlight experience.
posted by hoyland at 9:12 AM on July 29, 2023
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YouTubers have documented their train journeys; I’d recommend watching some of those to get an idea of what it’s like.
posted by qxntpqbbbqxl at 11:37 PM on July 25, 2023