Small, reliable sewing machine for just one task.
September 9, 2022 8:58 PM Subscribe
I'd like to get a very simple and reliable sewing machine that will be used only for hemming trousers and cutting down the bottoms of men's collared shirts. It'll only be used on non-stretchy, single layer, non-synthetic fabrics. Any recommendations?
I've used a sewing machine before and am pretty good with mechanical things, so it doesn't need to be idiot proof. Small, easy to store, and reliable are important. (Everyone I know who has sewn professionally has strong opinions that mostly involve complicated things that I don't care about.) There seem to be a thousand very similar looking options and it's hard to tell which ones are junk.
I've used a sewing machine before and am pretty good with mechanical things, so it doesn't need to be idiot proof. Small, easy to store, and reliable are important. (Everyone I know who has sewn professionally has strong opinions that mostly involve complicated things that I don't care about.) There seem to be a thousand very similar looking options and it's hard to tell which ones are junk.
I have the Brother CS6000i. It doesn’t take up too much space and has been reliable. It’s frequently recommended for beginners and basic sewing projects. I think I paid $100 for a used one, but they’re $200 new, which I don’t think is outrageous. You might get lucky looking on Craigslist considering how many people picked up crafty hobbies during lockdown.
posted by theotherdurassister at 10:39 PM on September 9, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by theotherdurassister at 10:39 PM on September 9, 2022 [3 favorites]
Mine cost $25 at a thrift shop. It does straight stitching perfectly. I've seen more elaborate ones for no more money.
posted by AugustusCrunch at 12:43 AM on September 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by AugustusCrunch at 12:43 AM on September 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
Might not hurt to take a look at local secondhand sites for an old Elna Lotus (or even Singer Featherweight, but those tend to be super expensive). You might run across some other classic "3/4 sized" machines, like the Bernina sport or minimatic, although these don't come with the integrated case the Lotus has.
Otherwise for a new reliable machine I'd get a basic mechanical (non-computerized) Janome or Elna (they're the same company these days). Not sure what easy to store means to you - is a handle or hard case important? Should the case be attached to the bottom of the machine or is it okay loose (the way it seems to be on most modern machines)? Is weight important? (There are some really light machines out there, but it's because they're mostly made of plastic which isn't great for longevity.)
Just in case the storability is for esthetic reasons, if the old cast-iron machines fit your style such that you can leave them out then don't be fooled by their age - they do exactly what you want, really really well.
posted by trig at 1:52 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
Otherwise for a new reliable machine I'd get a basic mechanical (non-computerized) Janome or Elna (they're the same company these days). Not sure what easy to store means to you - is a handle or hard case important? Should the case be attached to the bottom of the machine or is it okay loose (the way it seems to be on most modern machines)? Is weight important? (There are some really light machines out there, but it's because they're mostly made of plastic which isn't great for longevity.)
Just in case the storability is for esthetic reasons, if the old cast-iron machines fit your style such that you can leave them out then don't be fooled by their age - they do exactly what you want, really really well.
posted by trig at 1:52 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
It’s tempting to buy a vintage all-metal machine, but they might need repair and will need oiling. If you want something reliable for your purposes that you can use out of the box (I always recommend getting to know your machine by reading the manual and working through it step by step), you will be fine with any number of machines. A simple free-arm Janome or Brother will have all kinds of YouTube help available. The EverSewn machines are very cute and the lowest-tier one should be fine for your purposes. I have a Juki machine, and it’s wonderful, but there are fewer authorized dealers in the US than there are for Brother and Janome.
posted by saltykitten at 2:24 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
posted by saltykitten at 2:24 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
People rave about the Janome Jem mechanical.
posted by saltykitten at 2:31 AM on September 10, 2022 [4 favorites]
posted by saltykitten at 2:31 AM on September 10, 2022 [4 favorites]
It depends on how often you want to do this work and how sensitive you are to feel. You can get a nice working old Kenmore or Singer for under $50 in most metro areas. I had mine serviced/ cleaned/inspected etc for about $65 (around 2017). I have only used newer machines briefly but for basic sewing the all metal mechanicals are much easier and feel better to me, ymmv.
posted by SaltySalticid at 6:10 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
posted by SaltySalticid at 6:10 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
At the beginning of the pandemic, I was looking for a sewing machine to make masks. I started with two old mechanicals, but both were in such sad shape, they would need basically a total rebuild to be practical. I found a refurbished CE1125PRW (Project Runway edition, haha) on Brother's website and grabbed it for $125. No oiling or complicated changes necessary for stitch selection; it's all digital. Maintenance is basically brushing out the lint now and then, and giving it a light shot of compressed air.
I had sewed some as a kid, but was basically starting over, and this machine was very forgiving to a beginner. The pedal is very responsive and has a nice range across from "barely ticking" to "full throttle", and it uses most of the pedal for that range. (Mom's old Singer is "nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing, HAHA FULL THROTTLE, FUCK YOUR FINGERS")
It has a semi-automatic needle threader, which is suuuper handy, and loading the bobbins is "drop in, gently sweep to the left". Again, I am an amateur, but having farted around on a half dozen sewing machines and sergers in the past, this is by far the easiest I've used not just for the actual sewing, but for winding and loading bobbins, and for threading the needle.
As I grew in confidence and skill, I started using more speed, and fancier/better-suited stitches for some features of the masks. Once I had plenty of masks for us, I started making more and more to give away (this was the early days of COVID, and getting people into masks early was a big goal.) I stopped counting at my 500th mask, but aside from expected needle changes, this machine never let me down.
I've since hemmed my slacks and jeans, and with a suitable needle, it happily plows right on through those thick denim seams with zeal. Once or twice, on a particularly thick seam (thick neoprene that was admittedly a bit much for this lil' machine), it has stalled on me, but a quick reset and we're back in business.
I don't have a case for it, but it's small and light enough that it lives perched atop the crappy storage cart I got for holding my fabrics, thread, supplies, etc. When I need to sew, I just commandeer the dining table. The one mod that I've made to the machine is making an extension cord for the foot pedal. Since I'm sewing on the dining table and not at a sewing desk, it's quite a long run from the back of the machine to the floor where the pedal is comfortable. Adding an extension cord to the pedal gave me plenty of slack to put both the pedal and the machine in optimal positions.
posted by xedrik at 8:20 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
I had sewed some as a kid, but was basically starting over, and this machine was very forgiving to a beginner. The pedal is very responsive and has a nice range across from "barely ticking" to "full throttle", and it uses most of the pedal for that range. (Mom's old Singer is "nothing, nothing, nothing, nothing, HAHA FULL THROTTLE, FUCK YOUR FINGERS")
It has a semi-automatic needle threader, which is suuuper handy, and loading the bobbins is "drop in, gently sweep to the left". Again, I am an amateur, but having farted around on a half dozen sewing machines and sergers in the past, this is by far the easiest I've used not just for the actual sewing, but for winding and loading bobbins, and for threading the needle.
As I grew in confidence and skill, I started using more speed, and fancier/better-suited stitches for some features of the masks. Once I had plenty of masks for us, I started making more and more to give away (this was the early days of COVID, and getting people into masks early was a big goal.) I stopped counting at my 500th mask, but aside from expected needle changes, this machine never let me down.
I've since hemmed my slacks and jeans, and with a suitable needle, it happily plows right on through those thick denim seams with zeal. Once or twice, on a particularly thick seam (thick neoprene that was admittedly a bit much for this lil' machine), it has stalled on me, but a quick reset and we're back in business.
I don't have a case for it, but it's small and light enough that it lives perched atop the crappy storage cart I got for holding my fabrics, thread, supplies, etc. When I need to sew, I just commandeer the dining table. The one mod that I've made to the machine is making an extension cord for the foot pedal. Since I'm sewing on the dining table and not at a sewing desk, it's quite a long run from the back of the machine to the floor where the pedal is comfortable. Adding an extension cord to the pedal gave me plenty of slack to put both the pedal and the machine in optimal positions.
posted by xedrik at 8:20 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
I asked about sewing a few years ago and got a lot of opinions about machines.
See also this comment from Tchad (who teaches sewing). He recommended the Brother CS6000i. There is a newer version of that out now.
I got a similar but slightly different Brother that happened to be available refurbed when I was ready to buy mine. I do not have a ton of experience but I would say that likely any of the basic Brother machines will work for you. They are also small and easy to store/move. Many of them come with covers, and covers are available for those that don’t come with them.
posted by 2 cats in the yard at 8:36 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
See also this comment from Tchad (who teaches sewing). He recommended the Brother CS6000i. There is a newer version of that out now.
I got a similar but slightly different Brother that happened to be available refurbed when I was ready to buy mine. I do not have a ton of experience but I would say that likely any of the basic Brother machines will work for you. They are also small and easy to store/move. Many of them come with covers, and covers are available for those that don’t come with them.
posted by 2 cats in the yard at 8:36 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
There are a lot of used machines in good shape on my Facebook marketplace right now. In box, with all accessories. A lot of people get machines (especially during the pandemic) and then don’t actually do any/much sewing.
I have a Brother that is almost 20 years old. There’s a few annoying things it won’t do properly but I’ve had it serviced twice and it’s suitable for many projects. I also have a Singer in a table from the 70s. It’s sturdier and cute but it’s not necessarily a really good machine.
I think since you already know how to sew and what you want to do, I’d get a lightly used current machine for $100 or less. Alternately. I’d walk into a craft store and buy whatever they recommend as a beginner machine.
posted by vunder at 8:55 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
I have a Brother that is almost 20 years old. There’s a few annoying things it won’t do properly but I’ve had it serviced twice and it’s suitable for many projects. I also have a Singer in a table from the 70s. It’s sturdier and cute but it’s not necessarily a really good machine.
I think since you already know how to sew and what you want to do, I’d get a lightly used current machine for $100 or less. Alternately. I’d walk into a craft store and buy whatever they recommend as a beginner machine.
posted by vunder at 8:55 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
A lot of people buy a sewing machine, make curtains, and the the sewing machine ends up in the back of the closet. Post on freecycle or a local Buy Nothing group and you are likely to get one. Most sewing machines are pretty sturdy.
posted by theora55 at 11:41 AM on September 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by theora55 at 11:41 AM on September 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
another vote for Brother CS6000i. it's more than you might need but a solid, cheap machine.
posted by susandennis at 11:53 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
posted by susandennis at 11:53 AM on September 10, 2022 [2 favorites]
For your non-stretch use case, a vintage metal straight stitch only machine is very feasible. Because you only need straight stitch, you can go way back in time to get something extremely simple and robust with zero plastic. But vintage sewing machines are definitely an additional hobby separate to sewing, and you need to do a bit of research to understand their differences and limitations -- YMMV as to whether that sounds fun or annoying.
As you can tell from the rest of this comment, I have accrued a bunch of information about vintage machines and love nerding out about them; feel free to drop me a message if you decide to go this route and would like more details or resources (I have many links!).
Short personal recommendation: the Singer 99. I got one as a teenager after what I remember as the barest minimum of research, I still use it for pretty much everything, and I love it.
Longer recommendation: almost any cast iron straight stitch machine is a reasonably safe bet. I'm going to give specific recommendations for Singers because I know stuff about Singers, and because manuals for vintage Singers are widely available, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. Many other manufacturers made machines using essentially the same set of designs, and they're pretty much interchangeable.
Many old cast iron Singers can be fitted with an electric motor even if they don't come with one. Machines in portable cases (not treadles or cabinets) generally come with either a handcrank or a motor, and if there's a handcrank you can definitely put on a motor (they're attached to the same boss). You can use a brand new belt motor on a vintage machine. If you have a vintage motor with a mechanical pedal and hate the lack of responsiveness, you can chop it off and wire on a modern pedal -- these are very generic parts (apart from the moulded plugs and sockets that couple with each other). But you might like to try a handcrank; it uses up a hand, but gives you a lot of precise control.
The furthest back you can practically go is the 27 / 28 / 127 / 128, Singer's family of vibrating shuttle machines. They use weird long bobbins, and apparently rattle a lot if you electrify them, but they use the same common needle system as modern domestic machines (VS machines made by other manufacturers don't necessarily), and low shank feet (although there are some compatibility caveats). I wouldn't pick this over a newer round-bobbin design, especially if you really want a motor, but if you have the opportunity to get one very cheaply and easily, it's not bad, and you can find the bobbins. It's weird needles that are the biggest pain, because needles are consumable. The 28 and 128 are 3/4-sized machines more likely to be found in a portable case; the 27 and 127 are full-sized machines. None of these machines can reverse or drop feed dogs.
The 66 and 99 have a horizontal oscillating bobbin mechanism (drop-in class 66 bobbin; different to the most common modern class 15 bobbin, but not rare, and this model is not fussy about reproductions). The 99 is the 3/4-sized version of the 66. Newer 99s can reverse; newer 66s only have a "back-tack" feature, not a full reverse. None of them can drop feed dogs. Very old 66s use a back-clamping foot standard that Singer tried and immediately abandoned. The others all have low shank feet. Normal needles. The 192 / "Spartan" is identical to a 99 but was sold in a cheap case with limited accessories. The 185 is a 99 reskinned in a more modern chassis. (The 285 looks like a 185 on the outside but has a completely different mechanism and it's rubbish.)
The 15 is probably the most common vintage machine in the world, definitely if you count machines made by other manufacturers which have an identical design. There are lots of Japanese HA-1 machines like this. This machine has the same vertical oscillating bobbin mechanism as most modern domestic machines (but facing left, not forward) and uses the same common bobbin type, normal needles, and low shank feet. Some submodels have reversed bobbin handedness, needle insertion and threading (long story; you just need to make sure you're looking at the right manual). Oldest submodels can't reverse; newest submodels can drop feed dogs.
There are reproductions of this design still being made today for the developing market (including ones with Singer branding), and apparently these modern machines (from around the 70s onwards) aren't very good. You can tell if you're looking at a reproduction Singer if there's no embossed serial number on the front right of the base. They also often have cheap-looking bases. The vintage Japanese and European machines are (AFAIK) as good as vintage Singers (and the Japanese machines usually have more modern features like a feed dog control).
The 201 (allegedly the "Rolls Royce of Singers") has a horizontal rotary mechanism. It uses the same bobbins as the 66 and 99, but it's a lot more fussy about modern reproductions (most modern metal bobbins have a protruding seam which tends to cause thread snarls). Normal needles; low shank feet. All submodels can reverse; I think they can all sort of drop feed dogs (via a screw under the base).
Some 201s and 15s are gear-driven and have a specialised enclosed ("potted") motor. They are apparently a bit more powerful, but if the motor wears out you have to try to replace or refurbish it (complicated).
I'm mentioning the Featherweight (221 and 222) for completeness, but these are horrendously overpriced because collectors like them (which also means that specialised parts like the bobbin case and bobbins are overpriced), so I wouldn't recommend seeking one out. Features-wise it doesn't really do anything the less "sexy" models above can't do. It genuinely is more lightweight, of course, but I can attest that the 99 isn't that heavy.
posted by confluency at 12:01 PM on September 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
As you can tell from the rest of this comment, I have accrued a bunch of information about vintage machines and love nerding out about them; feel free to drop me a message if you decide to go this route and would like more details or resources (I have many links!).
Short personal recommendation: the Singer 99. I got one as a teenager after what I remember as the barest minimum of research, I still use it for pretty much everything, and I love it.
Longer recommendation: almost any cast iron straight stitch machine is a reasonably safe bet. I'm going to give specific recommendations for Singers because I know stuff about Singers, and because manuals for vintage Singers are widely available, but this is by no means an exhaustive list. Many other manufacturers made machines using essentially the same set of designs, and they're pretty much interchangeable.
Many old cast iron Singers can be fitted with an electric motor even if they don't come with one. Machines in portable cases (not treadles or cabinets) generally come with either a handcrank or a motor, and if there's a handcrank you can definitely put on a motor (they're attached to the same boss). You can use a brand new belt motor on a vintage machine. If you have a vintage motor with a mechanical pedal and hate the lack of responsiveness, you can chop it off and wire on a modern pedal -- these are very generic parts (apart from the moulded plugs and sockets that couple with each other). But you might like to try a handcrank; it uses up a hand, but gives you a lot of precise control.
The furthest back you can practically go is the 27 / 28 / 127 / 128, Singer's family of vibrating shuttle machines. They use weird long bobbins, and apparently rattle a lot if you electrify them, but they use the same common needle system as modern domestic machines (VS machines made by other manufacturers don't necessarily), and low shank feet (although there are some compatibility caveats). I wouldn't pick this over a newer round-bobbin design, especially if you really want a motor, but if you have the opportunity to get one very cheaply and easily, it's not bad, and you can find the bobbins. It's weird needles that are the biggest pain, because needles are consumable. The 28 and 128 are 3/4-sized machines more likely to be found in a portable case; the 27 and 127 are full-sized machines. None of these machines can reverse or drop feed dogs.
The 66 and 99 have a horizontal oscillating bobbin mechanism (drop-in class 66 bobbin; different to the most common modern class 15 bobbin, but not rare, and this model is not fussy about reproductions). The 99 is the 3/4-sized version of the 66. Newer 99s can reverse; newer 66s only have a "back-tack" feature, not a full reverse. None of them can drop feed dogs. Very old 66s use a back-clamping foot standard that Singer tried and immediately abandoned. The others all have low shank feet. Normal needles. The 192 / "Spartan" is identical to a 99 but was sold in a cheap case with limited accessories. The 185 is a 99 reskinned in a more modern chassis. (The 285 looks like a 185 on the outside but has a completely different mechanism and it's rubbish.)
The 15 is probably the most common vintage machine in the world, definitely if you count machines made by other manufacturers which have an identical design. There are lots of Japanese HA-1 machines like this. This machine has the same vertical oscillating bobbin mechanism as most modern domestic machines (but facing left, not forward) and uses the same common bobbin type, normal needles, and low shank feet. Some submodels have reversed bobbin handedness, needle insertion and threading (long story; you just need to make sure you're looking at the right manual). Oldest submodels can't reverse; newest submodels can drop feed dogs.
There are reproductions of this design still being made today for the developing market (including ones with Singer branding), and apparently these modern machines (from around the 70s onwards) aren't very good. You can tell if you're looking at a reproduction Singer if there's no embossed serial number on the front right of the base. They also often have cheap-looking bases. The vintage Japanese and European machines are (AFAIK) as good as vintage Singers (and the Japanese machines usually have more modern features like a feed dog control).
The 201 (allegedly the "Rolls Royce of Singers") has a horizontal rotary mechanism. It uses the same bobbins as the 66 and 99, but it's a lot more fussy about modern reproductions (most modern metal bobbins have a protruding seam which tends to cause thread snarls). Normal needles; low shank feet. All submodels can reverse; I think they can all sort of drop feed dogs (via a screw under the base).
Some 201s and 15s are gear-driven and have a specialised enclosed ("potted") motor. They are apparently a bit more powerful, but if the motor wears out you have to try to replace or refurbish it (complicated).
I'm mentioning the Featherweight (221 and 222) for completeness, but these are horrendously overpriced because collectors like them (which also means that specialised parts like the bobbin case and bobbins are overpriced), so I wouldn't recommend seeking one out. Features-wise it doesn't really do anything the less "sexy" models above can't do. It genuinely is more lightweight, of course, but I can attest that the 99 isn't that heavy.
posted by confluency at 12:01 PM on September 10, 2022 [3 favorites]
Someone I follow on Youtube who does a ton of sewing uses a Singer 99k. Mentioned near the end of that video is specific things about that machine and their buttonhole attachment. They are on Ebay and other places for pretty cheap. (I have considered one, but I need some of the modern things on newer machines.)
posted by Crystalinne at 10:26 PM on September 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by Crystalinne at 10:26 PM on September 10, 2022 [1 favorite]
Not? I cut off the bottom of trousers and hem them with a needle and thread. That certainly requires only a small storage area. And it's one of those daunting problems until you sit down down to it then bish bosh bash: all done in 15 minutes. Not sure about your other task but if you tuck your shirt in, nobody will know or care what it looks like, so long as it won't unravel in the wash.
posted by BobTheScientist at 1:29 PM on September 11, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by BobTheScientist at 1:29 PM on September 11, 2022 [1 favorite]
I have this Janome and I love it. Cheap, lightweight, small and it has not yet balked at any of the tasks we have asked of it, which include a lot of heavy duty patch sewing on because my son uses it as well.
posted by mygothlaundry at 12:59 PM on September 12, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by mygothlaundry at 12:59 PM on September 12, 2022 [1 favorite]
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