Best indoor trees that grow to 5 ft+ in NYC apartment?
March 29, 2021 9:50 AM Subscribe
Recommendations for an indoor tree that will grow to 5 foot+ height that can survive in the NYC region? I have east-facing exposures and am hungry for something that can eventually become a 5 foot+ height.
Difficulty-level: no palms (spider mite memories...) and can't need significant grow light support in the winter. Thanks in advance!
I was going to say ficus too--it's one of the classic indoor plants and pretty hardy.
posted by mark k at 10:25 AM on March 29, 2021
posted by mark k at 10:25 AM on March 29, 2021
I had a fiddle leaf fig that was that tall.
posted by pinochiette at 10:31 AM on March 29, 2021 [3 favorites]
posted by pinochiette at 10:31 AM on March 29, 2021 [3 favorites]
not exactly a tree, but our fiddle leaf fig is just under 6 feet and happy in a not-great lighting environment.
posted by eusebis_w_adorno at 10:31 AM on March 29, 2021 [1 favorite]
posted by eusebis_w_adorno at 10:31 AM on March 29, 2021 [1 favorite]
I have a couple of dracaenas that grow to touch the ceiling and have to be chopped every few years. They need very little light and if they're really happy they produce amazing flowers. They are toxic so watch out if you have pets but the foliage is lush and the flowers are super fragrant.
posted by RobinofFrocksley at 10:35 AM on March 29, 2021
posted by RobinofFrocksley at 10:35 AM on March 29, 2021
I’ve had good luck with Norfolk pines getting tall. A different look from the others suggested...
posted by Tandem Affinity at 11:11 AM on March 29, 2021
posted by Tandem Affinity at 11:11 AM on March 29, 2021
The five best answers I could come up with are:
Ficus benjamina (weeping fig, "ficus tree") -- size isn't a problem, and they're extremely tree-y in appearance. I have seen them get spider-mite infestations, though this can be prevented or mitigated substantially by keeping them out of hot, dry air and direct, all-day sun, so it sounds to me like this would be a good option for you. Possible problem: F. benjamina will defoliate substantially if the light level drops (from its perspective), so however leafy it looks when you first get it, a lot of those leaves are going to end up on your floor in the first month or so after getting it home. More will grow in as long as you don't panic, but if you're not anticipating this, it can be alarming. Also a good idea to rotate the plant periodically, so all sides of the plant have a chance at getting some light; if you don't, you'll get a plant that has foliage on one side but not the other. They do benefit from some time outside in a sheltered spot during the summer, but that's optional. You should have no trouble finding one for sale.
Polyscias fruticosa (Ming aralia) -- there are several Polyscias species that can be grown indoors (P. scutellaria, P. balfouriana), but this is the one that comes closest to the platonic ideal of a tree (the others also have compound leaves, but the leaflets are large and round, so the scale of the leaves to trunk is off). They also defoliate when the light level drops, and have a fussy reputation as a result, but again, if you're prepared for it, and know that it's going to replace the foliage, it's actually not a difficult plant. And I've never known one to have a serious pest problem (though note that I'm NOT saying that they can't have pests, just that they seem to be more resistant than most). I don't see these for sale very often, but they're around.
Murraya paniculata (orange jasmine) -- this is possibly a difficult one to find for sale; it's in the citrus family, and at one time was subject to a quarantine preventing Florida growers from selling it outside the state, to prevent the spread of a virus that harms citrus plants. I don't know if that's still the case or not. If you can find one, though, this would mostly fit the situation: they can get pests, but I don't think I've encountered spider mites. They'll bloom when they're happy, and the flowers have a strong, sort of musky orange-blossom scent, which -- not gonna lie -- can be a lot. But I've grown mine since 2006, in all sorts of lighting conditions (currently highly-filtered light from a west window), and it's never been particularly difficult. They do like a lot of fertilizer, I suppose. And mine's tended to grow out more than up, so it might take a long time to get to 5 feet, even if you start from 4 feet. These also benefit from time outside in the summer.
Araucaria bidwillii (bunya-bunya tree) -- different sort of silhouette, but still recognizable as a tree (just looks more like a spruce than a maple), and very easy. They grow one tier of branches per year. I started one from seed about 8 years ago, which is now about 2 1/2 feet tall; a second one I bought 14 years ago when it was about a foot tall is now about 3 1/2 to 4 feet tall, so they grow about three inches a year. (Though both are probably stunted, compared to how large they could be, since I've been reluctant to move them to bigger pots when they needed them.) They're in the same genus as Norfolk Island pines (Araucaria heterophylla[1]), and differ from them mainly in texture: heterophylla needles are soft enough to bend and blunt enough not to hurt you, but bidwillii has leaves, not needles, and every single one has a point at the end. On new growth, the points are soft enough not to hurt, but mature leaves are probably capable of drawing blood. Give it plenty of space, rotate it occasionally so it doesn't lean, and give it a bigger pot when it wants one, though, and it should be simple. Finding one will be the trick; if you're intrigued by the description and must have one, MeMail and I'll tell you where I found the seeds (3 seeds for $3.95, plus shipping; only one germinated.).
Breynia disticha (snowbush) won't stay variegated at those light levels, and the stems might flop over more than they would if they were getting strong overhead light, but it should still grow, and I know they're capable of five feet. I think I've seen spider mites on mine once, a long time ago, but they were unusually easy to get rid of. Biggest hassle is that if you let them get dry, they'll wilt really dramatically, and start shedding leaves everywhere, which is easier to keep under control if you repot them when they need repotting. They're also not particularly tree-looking at indoor sizes, and I'm not sure where you'd go to find one for sale -- I got mine from another houseplant enthusiast in a trade 12 or 13 years ago.
Honorable mentions:
• Ficus maclellandii (long-leaf fig) -- mostly as for F. benjamina; they're a little less fussy, but also a little less treey.
• Ficus microcarpa (Indian laurel) -- slower-growing than F. benjamina and more prone to pests.
• Coffea arabica (coffee tree) -- would prefer more light, doesn't look very treey at indoor-plant size
• Euphorbia tirucalli (pencil cactus) -- doesn't look treey at indoor-plant size, slow to get tall, and actually somewhat dangerous, but it's the easiest damn plant to grow ever; I've had one for 20 years and I love it dearly even though it tried to blind me once
• Ardisia elliptica (shoebutton tree) -- doesn't look treey at indoor-plant size
• Euphorbia leuconeura (Madagascar jewel) -- may not quite reach 5 feet, more weird/Seussian than treey
• Pachypodium lamerei (Madagascar palm) -- more weird/Seussian than treey, lots of sharp thorns
• Rhapis excelsa (lady palm) -- you said no palms
-
[1] I'm not recommending A. heterophylla because I have seen them get spider mites before. The circumstances were fairly extreme -- lots of hot dry air in a greenhouse filled with other plants, some of which had spider mites -- so I don't think it's a common problem, and they actually like cool, damp conditions, so there's a lot you can do with them to prevent mites, but the point is that mites can happen. Haven't seen that with A. bidwillii.
posted by Spathe Cadet at 2:25 PM on March 29, 2021 [9 favorites]
Ficus benjamina (weeping fig, "ficus tree") -- size isn't a problem, and they're extremely tree-y in appearance. I have seen them get spider-mite infestations, though this can be prevented or mitigated substantially by keeping them out of hot, dry air and direct, all-day sun, so it sounds to me like this would be a good option for you. Possible problem: F. benjamina will defoliate substantially if the light level drops (from its perspective), so however leafy it looks when you first get it, a lot of those leaves are going to end up on your floor in the first month or so after getting it home. More will grow in as long as you don't panic, but if you're not anticipating this, it can be alarming. Also a good idea to rotate the plant periodically, so all sides of the plant have a chance at getting some light; if you don't, you'll get a plant that has foliage on one side but not the other. They do benefit from some time outside in a sheltered spot during the summer, but that's optional. You should have no trouble finding one for sale.
Polyscias fruticosa (Ming aralia) -- there are several Polyscias species that can be grown indoors (P. scutellaria, P. balfouriana), but this is the one that comes closest to the platonic ideal of a tree (the others also have compound leaves, but the leaflets are large and round, so the scale of the leaves to trunk is off). They also defoliate when the light level drops, and have a fussy reputation as a result, but again, if you're prepared for it, and know that it's going to replace the foliage, it's actually not a difficult plant. And I've never known one to have a serious pest problem (though note that I'm NOT saying that they can't have pests, just that they seem to be more resistant than most). I don't see these for sale very often, but they're around.
Murraya paniculata (orange jasmine) -- this is possibly a difficult one to find for sale; it's in the citrus family, and at one time was subject to a quarantine preventing Florida growers from selling it outside the state, to prevent the spread of a virus that harms citrus plants. I don't know if that's still the case or not. If you can find one, though, this would mostly fit the situation: they can get pests, but I don't think I've encountered spider mites. They'll bloom when they're happy, and the flowers have a strong, sort of musky orange-blossom scent, which -- not gonna lie -- can be a lot. But I've grown mine since 2006, in all sorts of lighting conditions (currently highly-filtered light from a west window), and it's never been particularly difficult. They do like a lot of fertilizer, I suppose. And mine's tended to grow out more than up, so it might take a long time to get to 5 feet, even if you start from 4 feet. These also benefit from time outside in the summer.
Araucaria bidwillii (bunya-bunya tree) -- different sort of silhouette, but still recognizable as a tree (just looks more like a spruce than a maple), and very easy. They grow one tier of branches per year. I started one from seed about 8 years ago, which is now about 2 1/2 feet tall; a second one I bought 14 years ago when it was about a foot tall is now about 3 1/2 to 4 feet tall, so they grow about three inches a year. (Though both are probably stunted, compared to how large they could be, since I've been reluctant to move them to bigger pots when they needed them.) They're in the same genus as Norfolk Island pines (Araucaria heterophylla[1]), and differ from them mainly in texture: heterophylla needles are soft enough to bend and blunt enough not to hurt you, but bidwillii has leaves, not needles, and every single one has a point at the end. On new growth, the points are soft enough not to hurt, but mature leaves are probably capable of drawing blood. Give it plenty of space, rotate it occasionally so it doesn't lean, and give it a bigger pot when it wants one, though, and it should be simple. Finding one will be the trick; if you're intrigued by the description and must have one, MeMail and I'll tell you where I found the seeds (3 seeds for $3.95, plus shipping; only one germinated.).
Breynia disticha (snowbush) won't stay variegated at those light levels, and the stems might flop over more than they would if they were getting strong overhead light, but it should still grow, and I know they're capable of five feet. I think I've seen spider mites on mine once, a long time ago, but they were unusually easy to get rid of. Biggest hassle is that if you let them get dry, they'll wilt really dramatically, and start shedding leaves everywhere, which is easier to keep under control if you repot them when they need repotting. They're also not particularly tree-looking at indoor sizes, and I'm not sure where you'd go to find one for sale -- I got mine from another houseplant enthusiast in a trade 12 or 13 years ago.
Honorable mentions:
• Ficus maclellandii (long-leaf fig) -- mostly as for F. benjamina; they're a little less fussy, but also a little less treey.
• Ficus microcarpa (Indian laurel) -- slower-growing than F. benjamina and more prone to pests.
• Coffea arabica (coffee tree) -- would prefer more light, doesn't look very treey at indoor-plant size
• Euphorbia tirucalli (pencil cactus) -- doesn't look treey at indoor-plant size, slow to get tall, and actually somewhat dangerous, but it's the easiest damn plant to grow ever; I've had one for 20 years and I love it dearly even though it tried to blind me once
• Ardisia elliptica (shoebutton tree) -- doesn't look treey at indoor-plant size
• Euphorbia leuconeura (Madagascar jewel) -- may not quite reach 5 feet, more weird/Seussian than treey
• Pachypodium lamerei (Madagascar palm) -- more weird/Seussian than treey, lots of sharp thorns
• Rhapis excelsa (lady palm) -- you said no palms
-
[1] I'm not recommending A. heterophylla because I have seen them get spider mites before. The circumstances were fairly extreme -- lots of hot dry air in a greenhouse filled with other plants, some of which had spider mites -- so I don't think it's a common problem, and they actually like cool, damp conditions, so there's a lot you can do with them to prevent mites, but the point is that mites can happen. Haven't seen that with A. bidwillii.
posted by Spathe Cadet at 2:25 PM on March 29, 2021 [9 favorites]
And from looking at your other questions, I realize toxicity / sharpness should be a consideration too, so strike Araucaria bidwillii, both Euphorbias, the Ardisia, and the Pachypodium.
Murraya and Rhapis are definitely non-toxic; I'm pretty sure (but not positive) that Coffea and Breynia are non-toxic. All the Ficuses are potentially allergenic (more so than most plants; I react to Ficus a little but still have several) but not toxic so much. Polyscias is reportedly a little allergenic, though I don't know anyone who has actually had a reaction to them, and it's supposed to be limited to mild skin irritation anyway.
posted by Spathe Cadet at 2:34 PM on March 29, 2021
Murraya and Rhapis are definitely non-toxic; I'm pretty sure (but not positive) that Coffea and Breynia are non-toxic. All the Ficuses are potentially allergenic (more so than most plants; I react to Ficus a little but still have several) but not toxic so much. Polyscias is reportedly a little allergenic, though I don't know anyone who has actually had a reaction to them, and it's supposed to be limited to mild skin irritation anyway.
posted by Spathe Cadet at 2:34 PM on March 29, 2021
I have a lovely thai lime tree that is a little over 5 ft tall in ny nyc apt. As a bonus, you can use the leaves in cooking! Mine only actually fruited once, but that’s fine since the fruit is pithy and bitter anyway and the leaves are the most commonly eaten part of the plant.
One option
posted by Waiting for Pierce Inverarity at 2:57 PM on March 29, 2021 [1 favorite]
One option
posted by Waiting for Pierce Inverarity at 2:57 PM on March 29, 2021 [1 favorite]
Does it have to be a tree? Could it be a fast-growing houseplant? What about one that grows down rather than up?
Fiddle leaf figs and ficuses don't strike me as the best option for an east-facing exposure, as they typically want a bit more sun than that, but lots of plants can grow quickly. For example, a simple and lovely pothos (Epipremnum aureum) in a hanging basket could easily grow that long (trailing) in a year. Or, it could be on the ground and grow up a trellis (in nature, they climb trees).
posted by bluedaisy at 4:25 PM on March 29, 2021
Fiddle leaf figs and ficuses don't strike me as the best option for an east-facing exposure, as they typically want a bit more sun than that, but lots of plants can grow quickly. For example, a simple and lovely pothos (Epipremnum aureum) in a hanging basket could easily grow that long (trailing) in a year. Or, it could be on the ground and grow up a trellis (in nature, they climb trees).
posted by bluedaisy at 4:25 PM on March 29, 2021
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posted by I claim sanctuary at 10:17 AM on March 29, 2021