Compare living in Portland with living in the Bay Area, plz!
January 23, 2019 10:06 AM Subscribe
We are probably moving away from the Bay Area in something like a year. We've lived here five years. Portland, OR is tentatively on the list, and I'm trying to convince myself to be more enthusiastic about it. Have you lived in both? Bonus points if you do badly with seasonal darkness and can say how hard it was to get used to extra dark and how you managed.
Added details that may or may not make the question easier to answer
-I'm not outdoorsy, which negates some of the charms of both places.
-I am a social worker.
-after a very brief honeymoon period, I've never liked the Bay Area. It's the smugness, above all else.
-I have visited Portland, but just a couple of times for 2-3 days. It seemed nice, but I got unusually good weather, I think.
-I've lived in NYC, Chicago, and Austin. I loved Austin but it was years ago. I loved NYC but burned out on it.
Thanks for whatever you've got.
Added details that may or may not make the question easier to answer
-I'm not outdoorsy, which negates some of the charms of both places.
-I am a social worker.
-after a very brief honeymoon period, I've never liked the Bay Area. It's the smugness, above all else.
-I have visited Portland, but just a couple of times for 2-3 days. It seemed nice, but I got unusually good weather, I think.
-I've lived in NYC, Chicago, and Austin. I loved Austin but it was years ago. I loved NYC but burned out on it.
Thanks for whatever you've got.
It's not so much about not advertising where you're coming from as it is whether or not you brought your California attitudes and expectations with you. I say this having grown up in the Bay Area and moving to Oregon, and eventually Washington.
posted by humboldt32 at 10:37 AM on January 23, 2019 [3 favorites]
posted by humboldt32 at 10:37 AM on January 23, 2019 [3 favorites]
I'm a social worker, bay area native, and lived in the PNW for four years. I struggled with the extra darkness the whole time I was there--the two things that really helped were 1) making myself get outside anyway, even though it was dark when I got up and dark when I went to bed, and 2) using full-spectrum lighting in the house. Artificial sunlight is better than none! I did not do light-therapy; I found replacing my regular lightbulbs with full-spectrum bulbs was better than sitting in front of the light box for sessions of time.
I spent a ton of time in coffee shops and bookstores--these are more prevalent and more unique (but not much less pretentious, just differently-pretentious) than in the bay. The coffee really is much better.
The weather is rarely actively BAD in Portland; the actual volume of precipitation in the PNW is not that much higher than in the bay area. It's just damp ALL the time and always grey. You grow to really appreciate sunbreaks.
posted by assenav at 11:01 AM on January 23, 2019 [2 favorites]
I spent a ton of time in coffee shops and bookstores--these are more prevalent and more unique (but not much less pretentious, just differently-pretentious) than in the bay. The coffee really is much better.
The weather is rarely actively BAD in Portland; the actual volume of precipitation in the PNW is not that much higher than in the bay area. It's just damp ALL the time and always grey. You grow to really appreciate sunbreaks.
posted by assenav at 11:01 AM on January 23, 2019 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: (I should have noted that caffeine makes me jittery instead of happy/functional. I am just not cut out for the west coast!)
posted by Smearcase at 11:09 AM on January 23, 2019
posted by Smearcase at 11:09 AM on January 23, 2019
I ... am deeply confused by this question. Are there other factors that are directing you toward Portland? It sounds like a pretty terrible fit, honestly. And even for people who are attracted to the city, I feel like we've hit the point where you should move to Portland only if you feel like you can't be adequately happy elsewhere.
posted by purpleclover at 11:22 AM on January 23, 2019 [15 favorites]
posted by purpleclover at 11:22 AM on January 23, 2019 [15 favorites]
You've also probably heard that people there are unhappy about Californians moving there and contributing to the rise in housing costs, so it's probably best not to advertise where you're coming from.
It's not so much about not advertising where you're coming from as it is whether or not you brought your California attitudes and expectations with you.
My credentials: I live in Portland, but I'm not from California. The hostility towards Californians here is a real thing. Like, you'd think people were joking, but they're often not. It reminds me of when I was called a Yankee when I moved to the South for college: it has a real undercurrent of hostility.
I'm not saying don't move here because of this, but I get tired of hearing anti-Californian things and I'm not even from California. So, FYI. Though, there are so many Californians that this probably happens in many places?
As for the weather: we have exquisite summers (though heat waves are becoming more common), but the rest of the year is often cool and rainy (I say as sunbeams pour into my office at work at this very moment, but this is rare).
I lived in the South and sunny places for adult life before moving to Portland. You need to have things that you love to do that will get you out of the house in the winter, even when it's dark at 4:30pm. If you can afford it, taking a winter time vacation to a warm, sunny place can be a big help, even if it's just for a long weekend.
How about Seattle? It's not that much more expensive, and it's bigger. But also... why not Austin if you were happy there?
posted by bluedaisy at 11:49 AM on January 23, 2019
It's not so much about not advertising where you're coming from as it is whether or not you brought your California attitudes and expectations with you.
My credentials: I live in Portland, but I'm not from California. The hostility towards Californians here is a real thing. Like, you'd think people were joking, but they're often not. It reminds me of when I was called a Yankee when I moved to the South for college: it has a real undercurrent of hostility.
I'm not saying don't move here because of this, but I get tired of hearing anti-Californian things and I'm not even from California. So, FYI. Though, there are so many Californians that this probably happens in many places?
As for the weather: we have exquisite summers (though heat waves are becoming more common), but the rest of the year is often cool and rainy (I say as sunbeams pour into my office at work at this very moment, but this is rare).
I lived in the South and sunny places for adult life before moving to Portland. You need to have things that you love to do that will get you out of the house in the winter, even when it's dark at 4:30pm. If you can afford it, taking a winter time vacation to a warm, sunny place can be a big help, even if it's just for a long weekend.
How about Seattle? It's not that much more expensive, and it's bigger. But also... why not Austin if you were happy there?
posted by bluedaisy at 11:49 AM on January 23, 2019
Yeah, with your list, I just don't know that Portland has potential for you. I will say that for the past couple years, it has seemed less grey and rainy. So, maybe a nod to climate change? But, really, overcast is where we are at most of the year. San Francisco is way more multi-layered, multi-cultural and has lots more to offer for non-outdoorsy people just in entertainment, dining and other interests. Obviously, cost of living is still very different. And, yeah, we don't love Californians but if you don't brag about how affordable our housing is (not to us) or how dark and dreary it is here (yep!) then most people won't give you too much guff. For social work, Portland has a need but I wonder if it's a saturated market?
posted by amanda at 1:08 PM on January 23, 2019
posted by amanda at 1:08 PM on January 23, 2019
Where do you live in the Bay Area? Portland is similar to some parts of the Bay, very different from others.
posted by Jaclyn at 1:59 PM on January 23, 2019
posted by Jaclyn at 1:59 PM on January 23, 2019
Response by poster: In response to various:
-Yes, there are other factors. Among others, we have friends there and you can get by without a car.
-I live in Oakland.
-I'm not a Californian. I've lived here five years and identify with the place not at all. I guess if people would still consider me an invading Californian, there's not much I can do about it.
But I was asking in earnest and am grateful for the responses that, yeah, confirm that it's probably not a good match.
posted by Smearcase at 2:27 PM on January 23, 2019 [1 favorite]
-Yes, there are other factors. Among others, we have friends there and you can get by without a car.
-I live in Oakland.
-I'm not a Californian. I've lived here five years and identify with the place not at all. I guess if people would still consider me an invading Californian, there's not much I can do about it.
But I was asking in earnest and am grateful for the responses that, yeah, confirm that it's probably not a good match.
posted by Smearcase at 2:27 PM on January 23, 2019 [1 favorite]
I've lived in Austin, Portland and Seattle (and other places as well, but let's focus on these)
I can say that I think Portland is great, but for reasons of needing to make a living I can't really afford it. (I live in Seattle now)
If being able to get around without a car is a major factor then Austin is totally out of the question. I lived there for many years trying to get by without a car and it just absolutely fucking sucks trying to do that. Don't even think it's something that's feasible to do if you want a decent life there.
All things considered, Portland certainly isn't the worst place to live in the US and IMHO anywhere in "cascadia" is pretty damn good overall if you want to live in the US.
I was considering moving to Chicago but it's like. cold. really really cold.
So, I guess for whatever reasons that make me well, me, I absolutely love Portland. There's great beer, wonderful sites around the city, amazing little bakeries and the whole city is like a neighborhood that never seems to stop. Cities like that are lovely places to live. It's a smallish place, but it has a big feel, the food is wonderful and the weather isn't as crappy as Seattle's, not as hot as Austin in the summer, not as cold as Chicago in the winter.
You could certainly do worse in the US. Portland is pretty goddamn sweet.
posted by nikaspark at 3:17 PM on January 23, 2019 [1 favorite]
I can say that I think Portland is great, but for reasons of needing to make a living I can't really afford it. (I live in Seattle now)
If being able to get around without a car is a major factor then Austin is totally out of the question. I lived there for many years trying to get by without a car and it just absolutely fucking sucks trying to do that. Don't even think it's something that's feasible to do if you want a decent life there.
All things considered, Portland certainly isn't the worst place to live in the US and IMHO anywhere in "cascadia" is pretty damn good overall if you want to live in the US.
I was considering moving to Chicago but it's like. cold. really really cold.
So, I guess for whatever reasons that make me well, me, I absolutely love Portland. There's great beer, wonderful sites around the city, amazing little bakeries and the whole city is like a neighborhood that never seems to stop. Cities like that are lovely places to live. It's a smallish place, but it has a big feel, the food is wonderful and the weather isn't as crappy as Seattle's, not as hot as Austin in the summer, not as cold as Chicago in the winter.
You could certainly do worse in the US. Portland is pretty goddamn sweet.
posted by nikaspark at 3:17 PM on January 23, 2019 [1 favorite]
One thing to consider, especially coming from Oakland, is that Portland is super white.
posted by elmay at 4:05 PM on January 23, 2019 [5 favorites]
posted by elmay at 4:05 PM on January 23, 2019 [5 favorites]
A few thoughts: we lived in southern California for 5 years, then in the Bay Area for 32 years, because of work opportunities for my husband and me. Moved to Portland mid-2017, after I retired. What no one told us about the weather: it gets very, very hot in summer and both summers we lived here, there was wildfire smoke for most of August and part of September. Adding to that, greater Portland is far less breezy than most of the Bay Area, so we get stagnant air many times during the year. Combine that with the clogged freeways and yep, we've got air pollution that can last for days! Adding in the wildfire smoke, if you have restricted breathing issues, Portland Metro can be a challenging place to breathe. Winters are not as cold as you might think, at least so far, in our experience.
Another note: most people assume that Oregon is a blue state but we've found that outside of Portland, it has a deep red center, something that Gov. Kate Brown acknowledged last fall, when she stated that Oregon is actually a "purple" state. Something to consider if political climate is important to you.
Regarding smugness: since my husband and I are both retired, we don't encounter smugness as much as we experience ageism. I'd have to say that most Oregonians we've met are far kinder and more welcoming than Californians we met for the first time.
posted by Lynsey at 1:29 PM on January 24, 2019 [2 favorites]
Another note: most people assume that Oregon is a blue state but we've found that outside of Portland, it has a deep red center, something that Gov. Kate Brown acknowledged last fall, when she stated that Oregon is actually a "purple" state. Something to consider if political climate is important to you.
Regarding smugness: since my husband and I are both retired, we don't encounter smugness as much as we experience ageism. I'd have to say that most Oregonians we've met are far kinder and more welcoming than Californians we met for the first time.
posted by Lynsey at 1:29 PM on January 24, 2019 [2 favorites]
What no one told us about the weather: it gets very, very hot in summer and both summers we lived here, there was wildfire smoke for most of August and part of September.
This is actually newish. Until the past summer or two, we'd get a few 90+ degree days once or twice or summer, but mostly it was sunny and warm and rarely much about 80. The fires aren't new, exactly, but our planet is burning much more, and it's been rare to have smoke like that in Portland. The past two summers were especially bad.
Another note: most people assume that Oregon is a blue state but we've found that outside of Portland, it has a deep red center, something that Gov. Kate Brown acknowledged last fall, when she stated that Oregon is actually a "purple" state.
Oregon is, thus, like every state in the country: blue in cities, mixed in the suburbs, and red in rural areas. We also only have four million people here total. Right now Oregon is one of 14 states with a Democratic supermajority, a list that does include California and Washington and a few spots on the east coast.
posted by bluedaisy at 5:29 PM on January 24, 2019 [1 favorite]
This is actually newish. Until the past summer or two, we'd get a few 90+ degree days once or twice or summer, but mostly it was sunny and warm and rarely much about 80. The fires aren't new, exactly, but our planet is burning much more, and it's been rare to have smoke like that in Portland. The past two summers were especially bad.
Another note: most people assume that Oregon is a blue state but we've found that outside of Portland, it has a deep red center, something that Gov. Kate Brown acknowledged last fall, when she stated that Oregon is actually a "purple" state.
Oregon is, thus, like every state in the country: blue in cities, mixed in the suburbs, and red in rural areas. We also only have four million people here total. Right now Oregon is one of 14 states with a Democratic supermajority, a list that does include California and Washington and a few spots on the east coast.
posted by bluedaisy at 5:29 PM on January 24, 2019 [1 favorite]
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posted by pinochiette at 10:26 AM on January 23, 2019 [2 favorites]