Help choose a sewing machine for this construction gal
January 9, 2018 4:52 PM Subscribe
I'm an absolute beginner sewist. Should I sell my mom's old Viking/Husqvarna Freesia 415 with its digital displays and opt for a sturdy mechanical machine? How do I go about picking a good all-purpose sewing machine that I can both learn on and grow with as my skills improve?
Assume I have zero sewing knowledge.
I have my mom's old Freesia 415 sewing machine. It has some digital display aspects I find somewhat confusing, though I have the user manual available as well. I've thought of selling or giving away this machine to get one I'm more excited about learning on and growing in skill with, long-term.
More affordable is good, but I'm not overly concerned about price if it's for the right machine. I would like to stay under $1000, ideally under $700.
Requirements: I'd like to be able to work with thick cotton duck fabric, since I work construction and want to be able to alter my Carhartt work pants and bibs. I also *might* like to work with leather at some point, but I suspect I'd have to get a completely separate machine for that -- is that correct?
Because I'd like to work with a variety of fabrics, I think I want something very sturdy and versatile. I am reluctant to use a digital or electronic machine. I like the idea of a tough mechanical machine with all-metal parts that are serviceable and replaceable, as opposed to most modern machines that (I suspect) have more plastic parts. Is this a reasonable requirement? What about one-step versus four-step buttonholes -- how important are those sorts of features? In general, what specific qualities and features should I look for in a machine?
Where should I buy a machine? Should I get one off Craigslist, or go to the local sewing machine store? I'm in Portland, OR, if anyone has local recommendations. I know at least some machine stores around here offer unlimited free classes and personal instruction with a machine purchase, which seems great to this total beginner and possibly worth the extra sticker price of a brick-and-mortar store over a Craigslist machine. Also, if I get a machine off Craigslist, I assume I'll have to worry more about what presser feet come with it, and I feel a bit confused about all that.
Finally, what specific brands and models do you recommend?
Assume I have zero sewing knowledge.
I have my mom's old Freesia 415 sewing machine. It has some digital display aspects I find somewhat confusing, though I have the user manual available as well. I've thought of selling or giving away this machine to get one I'm more excited about learning on and growing in skill with, long-term.
More affordable is good, but I'm not overly concerned about price if it's for the right machine. I would like to stay under $1000, ideally under $700.
Requirements: I'd like to be able to work with thick cotton duck fabric, since I work construction and want to be able to alter my Carhartt work pants and bibs. I also *might* like to work with leather at some point, but I suspect I'd have to get a completely separate machine for that -- is that correct?
Because I'd like to work with a variety of fabrics, I think I want something very sturdy and versatile. I am reluctant to use a digital or electronic machine. I like the idea of a tough mechanical machine with all-metal parts that are serviceable and replaceable, as opposed to most modern machines that (I suspect) have more plastic parts. Is this a reasonable requirement? What about one-step versus four-step buttonholes -- how important are those sorts of features? In general, what specific qualities and features should I look for in a machine?
Where should I buy a machine? Should I get one off Craigslist, or go to the local sewing machine store? I'm in Portland, OR, if anyone has local recommendations. I know at least some machine stores around here offer unlimited free classes and personal instruction with a machine purchase, which seems great to this total beginner and possibly worth the extra sticker price of a brick-and-mortar store over a Craigslist machine. Also, if I get a machine off Craigslist, I assume I'll have to worry more about what presser feet come with it, and I feel a bit confused about all that.
Finally, what specific brands and models do you recommend?
The biggest constraint here is being able to sew your Carhartts. The machine has to be able to handle multiple layers of this fabric, because if you want to hem your pants shorter you'll be going through 6 or more layers of fabric where the hems meet the side seams.
Here's some suggestions about machines for sewing canvas. I don't know if any of them have all metal parts.
You could probably sew softer, thinner leathers on the same machine. You'll need a different needle, leather needles have a triangular cross section.
What about one-step versus four-step buttonholes -- how important are those sorts of features?
Everyone has their own ideas on this, this is partly what sorts of things people want to use their machine for and partly a matter personal preference. If you use the machine you already have for learning on you'll get more of an idea what you want.
As for where to buy, you could check on what the price is for classes without a machine purchase. Presser feet on Craigslist aren't a huge issue because you can buy presser feet separately, but having zero sewing knowledge you might have trouble evaluating the machine -- OTOH, if you have good general mechanical skills this isn't as much of an issue, and you can also find deals where someone with poor mechanical skills and/or dislikes sewing can't get their machine to work -- my first machine was a gift from someone who bought a "broken" machine at a yard sale for $5.
Pay attention to quality of metal, that same first machine later had a poorly cast metal part shear. Plastic might have been better.
Taking a look at the local stores so you know what's available and then checking Craigslist to see what the market is like there may help you make that decision.
posted by yohko at 5:37 PM on January 9, 2018
Here's some suggestions about machines for sewing canvas. I don't know if any of them have all metal parts.
You could probably sew softer, thinner leathers on the same machine. You'll need a different needle, leather needles have a triangular cross section.
What about one-step versus four-step buttonholes -- how important are those sorts of features?
Everyone has their own ideas on this, this is partly what sorts of things people want to use their machine for and partly a matter personal preference. If you use the machine you already have for learning on you'll get more of an idea what you want.
As for where to buy, you could check on what the price is for classes without a machine purchase. Presser feet on Craigslist aren't a huge issue because you can buy presser feet separately, but having zero sewing knowledge you might have trouble evaluating the machine -- OTOH, if you have good general mechanical skills this isn't as much of an issue, and you can also find deals where someone with poor mechanical skills and/or dislikes sewing can't get their machine to work -- my first machine was a gift from someone who bought a "broken" machine at a yard sale for $5.
Pay attention to quality of metal, that same first machine later had a poorly cast metal part shear. Plastic might have been better.
Taking a look at the local stores so you know what's available and then checking Craigslist to see what the market is like there may help you make that decision.
posted by yohko at 5:37 PM on January 9, 2018
I can't answer your question, but I would advise you to hold on to your mom's old machine. Take it to a reputable place to have it tuned up. Whether it ends up being your "main machine" or not, it's a quality machine and will work great as a backup.
posted by wwartorff at 7:17 PM on January 9, 2018 [6 favorites]
posted by wwartorff at 7:17 PM on January 9, 2018 [6 favorites]
Best answer: Your machine might actually be able to do all the things you want. Any chance it has a DC motor? I'd look up what people say about the model online. Regardless of what machine you use, you'll also need to get some appropriate needles, which is surprisingly important. You'll probably want jeans/denim needles for your thick fabric. Schmetz is a good brand.
If you just don't enjoy working on a complicated machine to begin with, I'd put it aside for now and either pick an old machine on Craigslist (or freecycle etc) for very cheap or buy a new basic Janome, which is known as a very solid brand. Personally I'd get one of their cheapest models for now (I've heard good things about their entry-level Hello Kitty models, but really anything that appeals to you is good.) Then, after you've been sewing for a bit and have a sense of what you can do and what you'd like to do, you can think about getting a different machine if you find that the ones you have can't handle the projects you have in mind.
Some notes: an industrial machine (doesn't have to be a Juki, that's just a good brand) will sew through thicker fabrics easily, but it's also much bigger, as Lycaste describes, sews much, much faster, and is in general a slightly different kind of experience.
If sewing machines kind of intimidate you, using an old straight-switch cast iron machine is actually a really nice experience because they're so very simple and solid. (They too may be able to deal nicely with the fabrics you have in mind.)
There are some tricks beyond needle type for sewing with thicker fabrics. For example, the hardest part is usually getting over seam humps, for which it can help to use a walking foot or something like this.
If you buy used (which can be an excellent way to get a great machine for cheap) do make sure you put out through all its paces before you buy it.
posted by trig at 7:55 PM on January 9, 2018
If you just don't enjoy working on a complicated machine to begin with, I'd put it aside for now and either pick an old machine on Craigslist (or freecycle etc) for very cheap or buy a new basic Janome, which is known as a very solid brand. Personally I'd get one of their cheapest models for now (I've heard good things about their entry-level Hello Kitty models, but really anything that appeals to you is good.) Then, after you've been sewing for a bit and have a sense of what you can do and what you'd like to do, you can think about getting a different machine if you find that the ones you have can't handle the projects you have in mind.
Some notes: an industrial machine (doesn't have to be a Juki, that's just a good brand) will sew through thicker fabrics easily, but it's also much bigger, as Lycaste describes, sews much, much faster, and is in general a slightly different kind of experience.
If sewing machines kind of intimidate you, using an old straight-switch cast iron machine is actually a really nice experience because they're so very simple and solid. (They too may be able to deal nicely with the fabrics you have in mind.)
There are some tricks beyond needle type for sewing with thicker fabrics. For example, the hardest part is usually getting over seam humps, for which it can help to use a walking foot or something like this.
If you buy used (which can be an excellent way to get a great machine for cheap) do make sure you put out through all its paces before you buy it.
posted by trig at 7:55 PM on January 9, 2018
Definitely start with the equipment you already have. If you decide not to continue sewing or that this machine doesn't do what you want then you have the choice to either not buy another machine or to buy one better-suited to your goals.
And I agree with trig, getting the right needles is the most important part of sewing heavier materials and a walking foot is a big help too.
As for older mechanical machines, be careful. I bought a beautiful old Bernina on eBay - it probably weighed 25 pounds - and even though I took it into the shop multiple times and had the complete manual I could never get the damn thing to sew without tangling the thread or some other failure.
posted by bendy at 8:09 PM on January 9, 2018
And I agree with trig, getting the right needles is the most important part of sewing heavier materials and a walking foot is a big help too.
As for older mechanical machines, be careful. I bought a beautiful old Bernina on eBay - it probably weighed 25 pounds - and even though I took it into the shop multiple times and had the complete manual I could never get the damn thing to sew without tangling the thread or some other failure.
posted by bendy at 8:09 PM on January 9, 2018
Man, autocorrect. Straight-switch should be straight-stitch, among other things.
posted by trig at 8:49 PM on January 9, 2018
posted by trig at 8:49 PM on January 9, 2018
"I like the idea of a tough mechanical machine with all-metal parts that are serviceable and replaceable, as opposed to most modern machines that (I suspect) have more plastic parts."
I got a fully-mechanical machine with all-metal parts, and my general experience with it was that it was hard to service and hard to get parts, cost a shit-ton every time I had to get it serviced, and a FUCKING PAIN IN THE ASS to get the stupid thread tension right. (Actually, I got TWO mechanical all-metal machines, but the first one was such a complete lemon that I never sewed anything on it, I just paid four times what it originally cost to keep getting it fixed and it never worked.)
I gave in and brought a Brother Project Runway machine with digital stitch selection, and it JUST WORKS, and also it's hella easier to get serviced.
I do think shopping at a local place is worth it, even though you'll probably pay a bit more for the machine -- you generally get free lessons, a service warranty, cheaper repair costs, which more than makes up for the extra $30 you pay by shopping at a local sewing machine store. Definitely check what they have available if you buy a sewing machine from them.
posted by Eyebrows McGee at 9:37 PM on January 9, 2018 [1 favorite]
I got a fully-mechanical machine with all-metal parts, and my general experience with it was that it was hard to service and hard to get parts, cost a shit-ton every time I had to get it serviced, and a FUCKING PAIN IN THE ASS to get the stupid thread tension right. (Actually, I got TWO mechanical all-metal machines, but the first one was such a complete lemon that I never sewed anything on it, I just paid four times what it originally cost to keep getting it fixed and it never worked.)
I gave in and brought a Brother Project Runway machine with digital stitch selection, and it JUST WORKS, and also it's hella easier to get serviced.
I do think shopping at a local place is worth it, even though you'll probably pay a bit more for the machine -- you generally get free lessons, a service warranty, cheaper repair costs, which more than makes up for the extra $30 you pay by shopping at a local sewing machine store. Definitely check what they have available if you buy a sewing machine from them.
posted by Eyebrows McGee at 9:37 PM on January 9, 2018 [1 favorite]
Best answer: About some of your other questions:
Presser feet are no big deal, you can buy big sets of them for super cheap. That said, not every brand of sewing machine uses the same attachments (which is one of the reasons I recommended Janome, since they're as "standard" as it gets). I'm not sure about Viking/Husqvarna; Bernina has its own custom accessories and they're really expensive. But most machines take interchangeable snap-on or low-shank presser feet and they're cheap and fun to play around with.
(One potential exception to this is walking feet, which you can also usually get for cheap but which seem to involve a bit of luck wrt getting one that works well with your machine. Some people recommend getting one specifically designed for the machine brand you're using (a more expensive option than a generic walking foot).)
People have different preferences about a lot sewing machines features. (For example, some people are very attached to having a vertical or horizontal bobbin. It's not something I'd worry about unless you've already developed some particular preference.) A feature that may or may not be useful to you is manual presser foot pressure adjustment (not the same thing as thread tension adjustment) which most newer entry machines don't have but is standard on most older machines. This, as with most other features, is something that's not really worth worrying about until you've been sewing for a little while and getting a sense of what features are actually relevant for you.
With respect to stitches, most stitches beyond straight stitch and zigzag are kind of just bonuses. Three that might be useful to you are triple stitches (basically the machine goes over each stitch three times, resulting in a thicker seam line; this is used for stretch fabrics and for thick decorative outer seams like on jeans), lightning stitch, and three-step zigzag. All three are most useful for sewing stretch fabric though, and none are technically necessary. Same with buttonholes; if you sew a lot of them you might develop preferences, but to start out with anything should be fine.
On the other hand, do look for a machine where you feel like the pedal gives you good control over sewing speed. If you end up with an older machine and the pedal doesn't let you sew slowly, you can usually get a replacement pretty cheaply (it's just a matter of finding one with the right connector).
Good luck and have fun! Since you seem like you're thinking of sticking with this long-term, I really would recommend just using a cheap but sturdy machine to get started with and finding out what your own preferences are as you learn.
Slightly off-topic: you might enjoy watching the BBC's Great British Sewing Bee. (FWIW, I think the machines they used on the show were the Janome 525s and occasionally some computerized machine with a built-in walking foot/IDT-type system.)
posted by trig at 9:52 PM on January 9, 2018
Presser feet are no big deal, you can buy big sets of them for super cheap. That said, not every brand of sewing machine uses the same attachments (which is one of the reasons I recommended Janome, since they're as "standard" as it gets). I'm not sure about Viking/Husqvarna; Bernina has its own custom accessories and they're really expensive. But most machines take interchangeable snap-on or low-shank presser feet and they're cheap and fun to play around with.
(One potential exception to this is walking feet, which you can also usually get for cheap but which seem to involve a bit of luck wrt getting one that works well with your machine. Some people recommend getting one specifically designed for the machine brand you're using (a more expensive option than a generic walking foot).)
People have different preferences about a lot sewing machines features. (For example, some people are very attached to having a vertical or horizontal bobbin. It's not something I'd worry about unless you've already developed some particular preference.) A feature that may or may not be useful to you is manual presser foot pressure adjustment (not the same thing as thread tension adjustment) which most newer entry machines don't have but is standard on most older machines. This, as with most other features, is something that's not really worth worrying about until you've been sewing for a little while and getting a sense of what features are actually relevant for you.
With respect to stitches, most stitches beyond straight stitch and zigzag are kind of just bonuses. Three that might be useful to you are triple stitches (basically the machine goes over each stitch three times, resulting in a thicker seam line; this is used for stretch fabrics and for thick decorative outer seams like on jeans), lightning stitch, and three-step zigzag. All three are most useful for sewing stretch fabric though, and none are technically necessary. Same with buttonholes; if you sew a lot of them you might develop preferences, but to start out with anything should be fine.
On the other hand, do look for a machine where you feel like the pedal gives you good control over sewing speed. If you end up with an older machine and the pedal doesn't let you sew slowly, you can usually get a replacement pretty cheaply (it's just a matter of finding one with the right connector).
Good luck and have fun! Since you seem like you're thinking of sticking with this long-term, I really would recommend just using a cheap but sturdy machine to get started with and finding out what your own preferences are as you learn.
Slightly off-topic: you might enjoy watching the BBC's Great British Sewing Bee. (FWIW, I think the machines they used on the show were the Janome 525s and occasionally some computerized machine with a built-in walking foot/IDT-type system.)
posted by trig at 9:52 PM on January 9, 2018
Finally! Make sure you clean out the lint from your machine regularly (mostly in the bobbin area) - lint building up is one of those things that cause seemingly-random problems and drive people crazy. And if your machine isn't self-oiling (it'll say in the manual) then oil it every few months with sewing machine oil (you can find instructions in your manual, online, or on YouTube).
Another thing that causes weird problems with sewing is a blunt needle, so you'll want to use a fresh one fairly often, and definitely replace if you're running into some problem that you just can't diagnose.
posted by trig at 10:05 PM on January 9, 2018
Another thing that causes weird problems with sewing is a blunt needle, so you'll want to use a fresh one fairly often, and definitely replace if you're running into some problem that you just can't diagnose.
posted by trig at 10:05 PM on January 9, 2018
Best answer: My current machine is a Pfaff Hobby 1142. It's an electromechanical (non-computerized) machine that works pretty well except for the extremely mediocre buttonholes. It successfully handles multiple layers of denim and canvas. Overall, I like this machine, but I can't recommend it because OF COURSE it has been discontinued by the manufacturer.
I got the machine several years ago from Montavilla Sewing Center on SE 83rd & Stark. I've been reasonably satisfied with their service and stock, and will probably go to them for my next machine.
There are almost no machines made now that aren't computerized. The best is probably the Bernina 1008, which lists at $1700. I think Janome, a cheaper brand but still pretty good, also still has some mechanicals in their line.
I used to reject the plastic machines, too, but modern plastics are much more durable than they used to be, and can actually be superior in some applications to the metal.
All the other comments here have good advice. My suggestions for shopping:
--At your stage of experience, I wouldn't buy from anything other than a professional shop.
--Look at machine reviews on sewing.patternreview.com. They have free and paid memberships. The “free” level still allows quite a lot of access if you don't want to pay the $20/year.
--Find a friend who sews and have them come with you to help test machines. If you don't know any sewists, contact some of the class instructors and get their advice.
--When you visit the store, bring with you some samples of the types of fabric you intend to sew. If you don't have scraps of the Carhartt (such as from hemming pantlegs), get some heavy canvas remnants from a fabric store and take those. If the store won't let you test the machines this way, find another store.
--Check the lighting on the machine. More is better. If possible, get a machine that has lighting under the arm as well as in the needle area.
--How easy is it to operate the handwheel (necessary for fiddly details)? Vintage machines had a nice, big, easily grasped wheel, but modern machines tend to favor sleekness of design over function.
--Look for a needle positioning feature that lets you stitch off the center line. If possible, find one that allows a swing to the right as well as the left.
--Is the foot control smoothly responsive? Reject ones that are stiff or jerky.
--Don't worry about presser feet. Most machines will come with an assortment of feet and other accessories. These should be enough to get you started. You can get other feet as you need them for projects.
--Once you have selected a machine, buy at least TWO DOZEN bobbins. You'll think you could never use so many, but trust me, with anything less, you're going to find yourself without empties when you most need them.
--Also, buy at least two packs of each size and type of needle you will be using. The rule of thumb is: One needle per project. Don't skimp on this. The finest machine won't work if the needle is bent, burred, or dull.
Happy sewing!
posted by Weftage at 8:33 AM on January 10, 2018
I got the machine several years ago from Montavilla Sewing Center on SE 83rd & Stark. I've been reasonably satisfied with their service and stock, and will probably go to them for my next machine.
There are almost no machines made now that aren't computerized. The best is probably the Bernina 1008, which lists at $1700. I think Janome, a cheaper brand but still pretty good, also still has some mechanicals in their line.
I used to reject the plastic machines, too, but modern plastics are much more durable than they used to be, and can actually be superior in some applications to the metal.
All the other comments here have good advice. My suggestions for shopping:
--At your stage of experience, I wouldn't buy from anything other than a professional shop.
--Look at machine reviews on sewing.patternreview.com. They have free and paid memberships. The “free” level still allows quite a lot of access if you don't want to pay the $20/year.
--Find a friend who sews and have them come with you to help test machines. If you don't know any sewists, contact some of the class instructors and get their advice.
--When you visit the store, bring with you some samples of the types of fabric you intend to sew. If you don't have scraps of the Carhartt (such as from hemming pantlegs), get some heavy canvas remnants from a fabric store and take those. If the store won't let you test the machines this way, find another store.
--Check the lighting on the machine. More is better. If possible, get a machine that has lighting under the arm as well as in the needle area.
--How easy is it to operate the handwheel (necessary for fiddly details)? Vintage machines had a nice, big, easily grasped wheel, but modern machines tend to favor sleekness of design over function.
--Look for a needle positioning feature that lets you stitch off the center line. If possible, find one that allows a swing to the right as well as the left.
--Is the foot control smoothly responsive? Reject ones that are stiff or jerky.
--Don't worry about presser feet. Most machines will come with an assortment of feet and other accessories. These should be enough to get you started. You can get other feet as you need them for projects.
--Once you have selected a machine, buy at least TWO DOZEN bobbins. You'll think you could never use so many, but trust me, with anything less, you're going to find yourself without empties when you most need them.
--Also, buy at least two packs of each size and type of needle you will be using. The rule of thumb is: One needle per project. Don't skimp on this. The finest machine won't work if the needle is bent, burred, or dull.
Happy sewing!
posted by Weftage at 8:33 AM on January 10, 2018
Best answer: A few years ago, I picked up one of the $150 all mechanical Singer machines. I've made a bunch of backpacks out of heavy waxed canvas, hemmed my Carhartts, made a backpacking quilt, made a few tents (think 15' seams), etc, etc etc.
I wouldn't throw $700 down on a new hobby when you can buy something a lot cheaper that will work fine for just about everything. In a few years when you really know what you're doing buy a $1000 machine (or just keep waiting for your cheap Singer to fail), you'll know what features you need and what you don't.
Do make sure you buy heavy duty needles for heavy fabric. Do use good quality thread like Gutermann.
If you want to sew leather buy a SpeedyStitcher.
posted by gregr at 8:55 AM on January 10, 2018 [1 favorite]
I wouldn't throw $700 down on a new hobby when you can buy something a lot cheaper that will work fine for just about everything. In a few years when you really know what you're doing buy a $1000 machine (or just keep waiting for your cheap Singer to fail), you'll know what features you need and what you don't.
Do make sure you buy heavy duty needles for heavy fabric. Do use good quality thread like Gutermann.
If you want to sew leather buy a SpeedyStitcher.
posted by gregr at 8:55 AM on January 10, 2018 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I alter my Carharrts on a middling-low-end Pfaff. New denim needle, jean-a-ma-jig, and let the machine set the speed (it has an integral walking foot, which I like a lot) and it's fine for personal use.
Wierd sweet spot for leather -- do the cutting and seam perforation with a laser and either a SpeedyStitcher or hand needles are suddenly really easy. Could probably get perforation and machine stitch length to match up, if determined.
posted by clew at 2:46 PM on January 10, 2018 [1 favorite]
Wierd sweet spot for leather -- do the cutting and seam perforation with a laser and either a SpeedyStitcher or hand needles are suddenly really easy. Could probably get perforation and machine stitch length to match up, if determined.
posted by clew at 2:46 PM on January 10, 2018 [1 favorite]
Excellent advice upthread - I also recommend trying your Mom's machine with new needles and a tuneup. I have an older electronic Janome and have sewn all kinds of heavy stuff on it. The machine will tell you if you are doing too much.
That being said, if you really want to plunk down your cash, I've heard good things about Sailrite Machines.
Miss Mustard Seed sews her upholstery and slipcovers with her Sailrite machine.
posted by sarajane at 5:24 PM on January 10, 2018
That being said, if you really want to plunk down your cash, I've heard good things about Sailrite Machines.
Miss Mustard Seed sews her upholstery and slipcovers with her Sailrite machine.
posted by sarajane at 5:24 PM on January 10, 2018
I don't think you need to buy a new machine, but if you want to, go into your local store and have a chat about what options they have. The lessons and personal help are totally worth it, if the people are nice and good teachers (there's something about owning craft stores that attract really grumpy people, not sure why).
Sit down and read the whole manual for the sewing machine you have. Most people use a fraction of the capabilities of their sewing machine, and the manuals can have really useful info in them (like how and when to oil, and how to sew thick fabric).
posted by kjs4 at 7:18 PM on January 10, 2018
Sit down and read the whole manual for the sewing machine you have. Most people use a fraction of the capabilities of their sewing machine, and the manuals can have really useful info in them (like how and when to oil, and how to sew thick fabric).
posted by kjs4 at 7:18 PM on January 10, 2018
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(I'm not sure what objects you want to sew in leather, but you will need special needles, not necessarily a whole new machine.)
Save the $700, and add to it a bit. If you find the Husqvarna doesn't sew through your work pants, you can get an industrial Juki. Used will probably be fine. They are industrial machines, they are not computerized, and they only sew a straight lock stitch seam. (They are also built into their own tables, which are large compared to home sewing machine tables, and the motor is built into the table.)
If you do decide to buy a Juki, take a sewing class with one to try it out. (Fashion schools and community colleges might have sewing labs that have them.) They sew much faster than home machines, and I've heard the motors are strong enough to drive the needles through the bones in your fingers.
You might also want to look into vintage (black metal bodies) Singer machines, they are not computerized and pretty bomb proof. Plus they will be cheaper than a Juki. You may have to find someone to do some restoration work on it before you can use it, though.
posted by Lycaste at 5:24 PM on January 9, 2018 [1 favorite]