Wall oven error code F1...seeking help from MeFi experts
March 11, 2017 6:02 AM   Subscribe

My double wall oven is throwing error code F1, I have tried all options that I have found on the web. Any other ideas?

This is a Frigidaire Electrolux double wall oven, installed new in 2004. It recently started throwing (apparently very common) F1 code, along with a constant beeping that sounds like a fire alarm on steroids.

Found on several websites the same options to repair: 1. change the temperature sensors and, if that didn't work, 2. change the oven control module.

I have done both and, each time, it stopped the beeping for no more than an hour. At that point, the F1 code (and the beeping) reappeared.

The clerk at the appliance part store told me (as I was purchasing the module) that it would have to be one or the other of those issues as there is no other part which controls the oven.

Okay, so now what? Anyone ever been through this? Please throw me any and all ideas because I really don't want to replace the unit, which has worked wonderfully, and my experience with appliance repair people has been less than stellar. Thanks.
posted by Ginesthoi to Home & Garden (12 answers total)
 
What about the control pad? According to Sears that could be a possible issue also.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/wall-oven-repair/error-codes/frigidaire-self-cleaning-wall-oven-error-codes.html

I read somwhere a while back, or maybe I saw it on This Old House, that running the self-cleaning function gets the heat up so high in the oven that if it goes over a certain threshold it could trip some sensor that would basically disable the oven is only replaceable by a service tech. Did you happen to do a self-cleaning before you started getting the error?
posted by eatcake at 7:14 AM on March 11, 2017


Was the control module new, new old stock, or refurb? Was it tested as good? I've done some DIY appliance repairs, and a problem I've run into more than once is old capacitors failing. I'm not an expert on the science of electrolytic capacitor failure modes, but I don't think they tend to die just sitting on the shelf (I think it comes from use). However, I'm not 100% sure. I'd have more confidence in a newly-manufactured board, or one that has recently been truly refurbed with new components.

The suggestion of the keypad is another good one. I've had a keypad on a ca. 2004 Frigidaire dishwasher fail. (However, I think the "Frigidaire" name is slapped on products from a number of manufacturers, so it's likely that your oven wasn't actually made by the same company, and even if it was, it's not like it shares components with my old dishwasher....)
posted by primethyme at 8:22 AM on March 11, 2017


Twice in the last year I have had appliances quit working--a Maytag front load washer and a Kitchenaid dishwasher. The washing machine had two error codes show, one for a bad drain and one for a bad door lock. Both of these are actually Whirlpool, and both times the motherboards had burned. They were actually scorched and melted. So the error codes were just from the motherboard not working and they didn't mean anything.

I don't know if this helps you or not, but Whirlpool replaced both at no charge although the dishwasher was still under warranty. It just took a while to figure out what was wrong.
posted by chocolatetiara at 11:18 AM on March 11, 2017


Response by poster: Thanks so much for the great information.

To answer your questions, I had not run the self-cleaning cycle. The beeping just started randomly and almost always happens when the oven has been off for hours or days and is completely cold.

Is the control pad the same thing as the control module? this is all new to me so the lingo is not familiar either.

As far as the control pad being new, etc etc, that is a great question. I ordered it in person from Marcone and they shipped to me. They said electrical parts are not returnable but I plan to be there Monday morning with the old and new panels to see if they have any advice. Or at least if they can confirm new or refurb.

Finally, chocoliatetiara, I am so glad Whirlpool was helpful with your dishwasher. Unfortunately, when I called F-E for advice on a fix, they were as helpful as they could be without stepping up to help. Given that the oven is 13 yrs old, I didn't really expect them to :(.

I welcome any other thoughts as, right now, this thing is a very expensive paperweight. Thanks so much.
posted by Ginesthoi at 7:45 AM on March 12, 2017


Can you find the model number on it somewhere? Maybe inside the door frame?
posted by jferg at 10:25 AM on March 12, 2017


Response by poster: You bet! GLEB27T8CSA.
posted by Ginesthoi at 1:38 PM on March 12, 2017 [1 favorite]


From the "control panel" section of this diagram, without further information or research, I might guess that either 20, 80, or 81 could cause this problem. Do you know which of these you replaced?
posted by primethyme at 3:11 PM on March 12, 2017


Response by poster: Wow! I replaced part 20, the oven control module, along with part 37, the temperature sensors.
posted by Ginesthoi at 4:26 PM on March 12, 2017


Best answer: Unfortunately, if I'm reading the diagram right, part 19 is the actual control panel - the buttons to set the cooking preferences. Based on the same info on the Sears page, F1 points to a short in the control panel, so that's likely the next step. Unfortunately, it seems to be no longer​ available, and the last known price was $363...Which is likely entering the realm of not worth it...
posted by jferg at 4:49 PM on March 12, 2017


Response by poster: Looking at part 19, the actual one sitting on my counter, I see that it is a flat piece of metal with no features except what I guess you call a bus, a two inch wide extremely thin piece of plastic with 20 tiny wires leading to a plastic piece. This piece has 20 tiny holes which lead to 20 tiny wires on the oven control panel. I guess each wire controls one of the flat "buttons" on the front of the control panel, temp up, temp down, etc.

So it is possible that one or more of those wires has gone over to the dark side. I'd that what you are saying, jberg?
posted by Ginesthoi at 5:22 AM on March 13, 2017


Response by poster: The brilliant minds of Metafilter strike again!

It is indeed the control panel, an option that I never considered. Thanks to all of you who took the time to post helpful advice, especially jferg who hit on exactly what is out-of-whack with this oven.

That's the good news. The bad news is, also as noted, that it is NLA (an acronym I had never heard til yesterday), no longer available. Anybody out there have a top-secret hidden source for NLA oven parts that they'd be willing to share?

At any rate, thank you thank you!
posted by Ginesthoi at 5:54 AM on March 14, 2017


Be sure to check eBay (in addition to Sears and Appliance Parts Pros). I've also seen some services that refurbish/repair discontinued appliance circuit boards (though I've never used one myself), so you might look into that.
posted by primethyme at 12:08 PM on March 15, 2017


« Older Windows 10 Picture Library - can only sort by...   |   Resources for Trumpian conversations? Newer »
This thread is closed to new comments.