Refinishing a metal desk

January 3, 2006 7:27 AM

Refinishing a metal table-- things I should know?

I bought a slightly rusty, old metal desk/table at a demolition sale. I want to sand it down and spray paint it, but spray paint always looks like amateur work with uneven thicknesses. Tips?

Also, the top is maybe old hardboard...? What should I replace it with?

posted by orangemiles to Home & Garden (5 answers total)

If there's paint on it now, sanding it is the hardest way to get it off. Chemical strippers, while nasty, are much faster. Save some very fine sandpaper for the end of the stripping process.

Always lay down a coat of primer before painting. Makes a world of difference in the vividness of the paint color.

It is possible to get decent results from rattle-can spraypaint. Just go very light on each pass, and do it in an environment where dust and schmutz aren't going to waft onto it.

As for the surface, it's hard to know what would fit without seeing it, but perhaps you could get some tempered glass cut for it.
posted by adamrice at 7:40 AM on January 3, 2006

Rustoleum hammered finish paint might be what you're after. It leaves a great finish and is fairly tough, without the uneven look regular spray can give. The finish it provides can hide surface imperfections, reducing your prep time. A compatible clear coat makes it look even better and last. Also, you probably won't need to sand off all the old paint unless you're painting it with a laquer (it tends to lift the enamels used on furniture/appliances). Just roughen and prime.

If it's in your budget, you can get great laminates that can be cut to fit and cemented to the top, or even stain and varnish a nice piece of plywood (not the splinter bearing cheapie type, but some nice oak or whatever stikes your fancy).
posted by IronLizard at 8:07 AM on January 3, 2006

I have had very bad luck with Rust-Oleum paints; they don't seem to harden. I haven't used the one IronLizard touts, though.

I have had good luck with some cheap, store-brand enamels. The ones I am thinking of came from now-defunct stores, though.

Spraying from a can is a matter of technique; it should go on thick enough so you don't get orange-peel, but not so thick that it runs. Warming the surface with a heat lamp can help.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 9:26 AM on January 3, 2006

Definitely use Krylon, dries much faster. Make sure the everything is nice and warm (air, paint and table). Practice on a piece of scrap first (but watch out, if you practice on cardboard that absorbs paint, you'll get runs on metal). Start at the highest point, in the center. Don't try to get full coverage on the first coat, it will run. Start with the can past the edge of the surface, start moving the can before you start spraying. Go all the way across and release the button before you stop moving the can. Now overlap 50% in the other direction and work your way down (or across). The speed at which you move the can regulates the amount of paint you apply. Do at least 3 layers, or whatever it takes to cover it. Baking the finish will increase its toughness, just don't blister the paint.
posted by 445supermag at 10:56 AM on January 3, 2006

Yeah, Krylon has worked well for me, too.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 12:11 PM on January 3, 2006