How do I EBay: Selling Vinyl Records and a Guitar edition
March 22, 2015 9:02 AM Subscribe
This is a two-part question on how to properly and responsibly sell on EBay 1) used vinyl records and 2) a used guitar.
I have 100% feedback (over 150 ratings) and have sold things, intermittently, on EBay for the better part of ten years. I'm not a rookie, but I am by no means an expert.
Right now, I have two things I want to sell:
1. Several used vinyl records from my personal collection - mostly obscure crate-digger type stuff, including world, exotica, field recordings, etc.
2. A mid-line, but hand-built Flamenco guitar - the model is no longer in production, but was about $600 new and appears to go between $250-400 used.
However, although I am quite experienced in buying vinyl records on EBay, I am skeptical of how to sell them.
My concerns with the vinyl records:
1. Can I just "sight" rate these records? I know that none of them are warped, as this was checked when I initially purchased them and they have been meticulously stored since then, but some have light scratches and dust. However, I know from personal experience that a "sight" rated record can be messed up - one example being an original Klaus Nomi LP I purchased in "Near Mint" condition (the seller admitted this was from sight-rating, not listening to the record) only to discover that the first track skipped because there was some kind of dried snot-like secretion on the record. You couldn't see it unless you really angled the record under strong, fluorescent light. (I guess this guy did his sight-ratings under 900 lumen bulbs. How convenient. Also I guess I was pretty naive to trust a NM rating from someone else's sight review.)
----A. Altogether I have about 20-40 used records I want to sell. The records and sleeves are all in VG to Ex condition, with the exception of a few that I'd say are just VG- because of some clicking/pops or worse-than-average sleeve wear. If I discover that any of them are below VG- or have serious issue (like a major skip that I can't seem to clean) I won't sell it.
----B. I'm a firm believer that the more accurate (and conservative) you are in rating the "condition" of an object on Ebay, the more likely people are to buy it and, ultimately, be satisfied with their purchase. This is because they're more likely to be pleasantly surprised that it's in better condition than they thought; as opposed to finding out it's worse than they thought and feeling ripped off.
2. Besides the obvious, what should I listen for and point out if I choose to "listen rate" these records? And how detailed do I need to be? Do I need to take copious notes on where any pops, clicks, or skips occur, or just give a general overview as in "The record does have occasional pops and clicks that appear to be the result of dust, but overall sounds clean, and is scratch free."
3. What is the best way to photograph the LP itself? I have a small light studio made for photographing small-to-medium-size objects that I intend to use, but if anyone has tips on what light, ISO/aperture/shutter speed settings to use on my camera to most accurately capture the condition of the vinyl, please advise.
4. I realize that rating a vinyl record is subjective. What might sound clean to me may sound like dirt to somebody out there with a $400 Grado cartridge/stylus on their turntable. (I have a pretty decent vintage Pioneer turntable hooked up to a modern Onkyo amp, and while it sounds quite lovely to me, I understand the basics of audio well enough to know that things could still be better.) So, what's the best way to overcome this without upgrading to a Grado just yet?
5. Shipping tips? I understand the basics of how to ship vinyl - remove the record from the sleeve, put cardboard between the record and the sleeve, as well as on the outside, and use a cardboard LP mailer. Bubble wrap, too? What else am I missing here?
6. Any other miscellaneous things to help me sell these items accurately, and minimize the likelihood of returns and unhappy customers leaving me negative feedback.
7. Repairing sleeves. My partner used to sell vinyl on Ebay from time to time, and he has told me that it's not only OK to put clear masking tape on sleeves that have come apart at the seams, but can actually increase the rating of the sleeve (say, from VG- to VG). I'm skeptical of this advice. Opinions?
8. General guidelines on properly rating sleeves - how much do you mark down a rating/value when the sleeve has writing on it (owner's original name) or a price sticker that won't come off without damaging the sleeve itself?
9. I hate asking this, but record cleaning tips. I'm in the belief camp that unless you have a Nitty Gritty, the only acceptable method for cleaning vinyl LPs is the Library of Congress' method using a Tergitol solution. Like cast iron pans, everyone seems to have an opinion about how to clean a vinyl record, but if you have a method other than Tergitol that you can strongly recommend (I've heard everything from oven cleaner to Dawn liquid soap to isopropyl alcohol, and wince at them all!), please go ahead. I'm especially interested if it involves using a home vacuum to suction out dust, without doing damage to the record.
And now, my concerns with EBaying the flamenco guitar:
1. I have no idea how to rate a guitar. I bought this years ago when I wanted to learn, and then never really did. The body is clean and without dents, and my partner (who understands guitars better than I do, but is not an expert, either) just put a new set of quality nylon strings on it.
2. What measurements should I list? What details need to be put out in the open? Should I assume the person buying this guitar already knows what it sounds like and that's why they're buying it? I realize someone could buy it, decide they hate the sound and return it; what can I do to lessen the chances of this? Link to some YouTube videos of people performing songs on that particular guitar?
3. Shipping. This is what scares me. Should I just take the guitar, now, to a place like Mailboxes Etc and get it fitted for a box and protective packaging, as well as weighed while in the box/packaging? And who is the best carrier for shipping a guitar - UPS/Fed Ex over USPS? What options should I give buyers? I don't want to lose money on the shipping and handling; this is one of those things where I can't justify giving free shipping.
4. When selling high-value items like guitars, what do you document to CYA? With electronics, I always photograph the serial number and make sure the serial number is in the listing photos. I'm not sure what I can do to protect myself from return-fraud on a guitar. I also assume I should buy insurance (seems like a no brainer), but anything else?
I have 100% feedback (over 150 ratings) and have sold things, intermittently, on EBay for the better part of ten years. I'm not a rookie, but I am by no means an expert.
Right now, I have two things I want to sell:
1. Several used vinyl records from my personal collection - mostly obscure crate-digger type stuff, including world, exotica, field recordings, etc.
2. A mid-line, but hand-built Flamenco guitar - the model is no longer in production, but was about $600 new and appears to go between $250-400 used.
However, although I am quite experienced in buying vinyl records on EBay, I am skeptical of how to sell them.
My concerns with the vinyl records:
1. Can I just "sight" rate these records? I know that none of them are warped, as this was checked when I initially purchased them and they have been meticulously stored since then, but some have light scratches and dust. However, I know from personal experience that a "sight" rated record can be messed up - one example being an original Klaus Nomi LP I purchased in "Near Mint" condition (the seller admitted this was from sight-rating, not listening to the record) only to discover that the first track skipped because there was some kind of dried snot-like secretion on the record. You couldn't see it unless you really angled the record under strong, fluorescent light. (I guess this guy did his sight-ratings under 900 lumen bulbs. How convenient. Also I guess I was pretty naive to trust a NM rating from someone else's sight review.)
----A. Altogether I have about 20-40 used records I want to sell. The records and sleeves are all in VG to Ex condition, with the exception of a few that I'd say are just VG- because of some clicking/pops or worse-than-average sleeve wear. If I discover that any of them are below VG- or have serious issue (like a major skip that I can't seem to clean) I won't sell it.
----B. I'm a firm believer that the more accurate (and conservative) you are in rating the "condition" of an object on Ebay, the more likely people are to buy it and, ultimately, be satisfied with their purchase. This is because they're more likely to be pleasantly surprised that it's in better condition than they thought; as opposed to finding out it's worse than they thought and feeling ripped off.
2. Besides the obvious, what should I listen for and point out if I choose to "listen rate" these records? And how detailed do I need to be? Do I need to take copious notes on where any pops, clicks, or skips occur, or just give a general overview as in "The record does have occasional pops and clicks that appear to be the result of dust, but overall sounds clean, and is scratch free."
3. What is the best way to photograph the LP itself? I have a small light studio made for photographing small-to-medium-size objects that I intend to use, but if anyone has tips on what light, ISO/aperture/shutter speed settings to use on my camera to most accurately capture the condition of the vinyl, please advise.
4. I realize that rating a vinyl record is subjective. What might sound clean to me may sound like dirt to somebody out there with a $400 Grado cartridge/stylus on their turntable. (I have a pretty decent vintage Pioneer turntable hooked up to a modern Onkyo amp, and while it sounds quite lovely to me, I understand the basics of audio well enough to know that things could still be better.) So, what's the best way to overcome this without upgrading to a Grado just yet?
5. Shipping tips? I understand the basics of how to ship vinyl - remove the record from the sleeve, put cardboard between the record and the sleeve, as well as on the outside, and use a cardboard LP mailer. Bubble wrap, too? What else am I missing here?
6. Any other miscellaneous things to help me sell these items accurately, and minimize the likelihood of returns and unhappy customers leaving me negative feedback.
7. Repairing sleeves. My partner used to sell vinyl on Ebay from time to time, and he has told me that it's not only OK to put clear masking tape on sleeves that have come apart at the seams, but can actually increase the rating of the sleeve (say, from VG- to VG). I'm skeptical of this advice. Opinions?
8. General guidelines on properly rating sleeves - how much do you mark down a rating/value when the sleeve has writing on it (owner's original name) or a price sticker that won't come off without damaging the sleeve itself?
9. I hate asking this, but record cleaning tips. I'm in the belief camp that unless you have a Nitty Gritty, the only acceptable method for cleaning vinyl LPs is the Library of Congress' method using a Tergitol solution. Like cast iron pans, everyone seems to have an opinion about how to clean a vinyl record, but if you have a method other than Tergitol that you can strongly recommend (I've heard everything from oven cleaner to Dawn liquid soap to isopropyl alcohol, and wince at them all!), please go ahead. I'm especially interested if it involves using a home vacuum to suction out dust, without doing damage to the record.
And now, my concerns with EBaying the flamenco guitar:
1. I have no idea how to rate a guitar. I bought this years ago when I wanted to learn, and then never really did. The body is clean and without dents, and my partner (who understands guitars better than I do, but is not an expert, either) just put a new set of quality nylon strings on it.
2. What measurements should I list? What details need to be put out in the open? Should I assume the person buying this guitar already knows what it sounds like and that's why they're buying it? I realize someone could buy it, decide they hate the sound and return it; what can I do to lessen the chances of this? Link to some YouTube videos of people performing songs on that particular guitar?
3. Shipping. This is what scares me. Should I just take the guitar, now, to a place like Mailboxes Etc and get it fitted for a box and protective packaging, as well as weighed while in the box/packaging? And who is the best carrier for shipping a guitar - UPS/Fed Ex over USPS? What options should I give buyers? I don't want to lose money on the shipping and handling; this is one of those things where I can't justify giving free shipping.
4. When selling high-value items like guitars, what do you document to CYA? With electronics, I always photograph the serial number and make sure the serial number is in the listing photos. I'm not sure what I can do to protect myself from return-fraud on a guitar. I also assume I should buy insurance (seems like a no brainer), but anything else?
Are you trying to get top-dollar for the albums, or just get them sold to someone who'll appreciate them? I've sold records on eBay (granted, a few years ago) and on Etsy lately with little more than "very nice, minor scratches" as a description of item quality. People will base how much they want to pay for it compared with their risk of scratches, so if you want $50 for an album you're going to need to go into greater detail. I usually took a general photo of the vinyl, but otherwise haven't gone into much detail, and I'm only expecting to get around $5 - $10 a disc. Describe it as best you can, you're right, people are going to trust a more detailed description, which you'll need to get top-dollar for an album, but a lack of one isn't going to scare people off, it'll just reflect in what they want to pay. Make sure you photograph both sides of the jacket, if the inner sleeve is fancy do it to, and both sides of the vinyl, just to cover your bases.
The reason we haven't sold much on eBay lately is that for collectibles and antiques it has gotten very rummage-sale in both item quality and price; unless you've got something outstanding it may not even sell, and even outstanding things are going for cheaper than I'd expect at Etsy or at a flea market.
Other tips: cardboard pizza boxes are excellent for shipping albums; not used pizza boxes, of course, but box companies online will sell a pack of them for a few bucks each box. Note that record albums, with packing material around them, are probably going to push it into oversized pricing with the USPS, so figure that into your price. If you've got 78s, package them like fine china; Wifey bought a 78 that was shipped like it was vinyl, and it arrived in tiny, tiny pieces.
posted by AzraelBrown at 12:08 PM on March 22, 2015
The reason we haven't sold much on eBay lately is that for collectibles and antiques it has gotten very rummage-sale in both item quality and price; unless you've got something outstanding it may not even sell, and even outstanding things are going for cheaper than I'd expect at Etsy or at a flea market.
Other tips: cardboard pizza boxes are excellent for shipping albums; not used pizza boxes, of course, but box companies online will sell a pack of them for a few bucks each box. Note that record albums, with packing material around them, are probably going to push it into oversized pricing with the USPS, so figure that into your price. If you've got 78s, package them like fine china; Wifey bought a 78 that was shipped like it was vinyl, and it arrived in tiny, tiny pieces.
posted by AzraelBrown at 12:08 PM on March 22, 2015
1. I have no idea how to rate a guitar.
It sounds like your partner & you should be able to cover the basics - whether the neck is straight, no fret buzz or other odd rattling noises, no cracks or major dings or dents, no major scratches, the tuning machines work properly, the strings stay in place and the guitar stays in tune. It wouldn't hurt to have a "more expert" guitar-playing friend take a look, too, if you've got one.
Otherwise, it's not like there's any agreed-upon numbers-based (or, y'know, "Excellent", "very good", "good", "fair") rating system or anything. Plus I think most people tend to take seller descriptions with a grain of salt anyway, so if there are no major problems or cosmetic damage you can safely call it "excellent" or "very good." It's probably worth stating that this is a guitar with "low miles" on it - no gigs, stayed in a smoke-free house (if true), only played a few times, etc etc etc.
2. What measurements should I list? What details need to be put out in the open?
PICS PICS PICS PICS.
Lots of pics. Clear, in-focus pics that show how good a condition the guitar is in, or ones that clearly show any scratches or dings or cracks if you discover any. Pics of the serial number are good, too. Otherwise, manufacturer & model name/number, description of the body materials. People will, I think, generally do their own research, so you don't need to list the exact dimensions of the body or anything.
If it's a fairly obscure guitar, it might help to add links to whatever webpages you can find about the manufacturer/maker and/or the model. You should do plenty of searching yourself for these pages before you list it, if only so you can answer questions.
Should I assume the person buying this guitar already knows what it sounds like and that's why they're buying it? I realize someone could buy it, decide they hate the sound and return it; what can I do to lessen the chances of this?
Well, assuming anything is probably not the best idea, and it's not just about how the guitar sounds but how it physically feels as you play it - and the problem is all the dimensions and info in the world won't actually provide much useful information for the player; they need the guitar in their hands. Having said that, your guitar is not actually all that high-value in the world of guitars, so being scrupulously honest and clear about the condition the guitar is in (and packing it really really well) is probably your best safety net. If they don't like the way the guitar sounds or plays after they've received it, they're likely to just chalk it up to "Fine guitar, not for me" and then try to re-sell it themselves rather than try to return it to you. It's certainly possible someone could try to return it, or claim that the guitar was not as described in the listing, so keep the money around and available so you can process a refund with minimal hassle and financial hit to yourself (PayPal's practices for holding/withdrawing/refunding money have supposedly caused some sellers no end of grief, for example, so read up on those practices if you're accepting PayPal.)
Should I just take the guitar, now, to a place like Mailboxes Etc and get it fitted for a box and protective packaging, as well as weighed while in the box/packaging?
YES, absolutely, this is the best idea. Plus the dimensions of the box may put your guitar into "oversize/overweight" territory (even if it's not actually all that heavy or large.) $25 - $50 U.S. seems to be about the going rate for shipping guitars in the continental U.S. Go ahead and list your shipping costs in your listing, no-one expects free shipping on this kind of item from a private seller (from a retail business, sure, but not an individual), and if they do they're a fool.
And who is the best carrier for shipping a guitar - UPS/Fed Ex over USPS? What options should I give buyers?
Considering that (AFAIK) both UPS & Fed Ex often use USPS as part of their transport system anyway, you might as well just see who's got the best price. Most heavy/large musical gear I see on ebay doesn't tend to give many options - they're shipping it how they ship it, for $[x] price, and that's it.
When selling high-value items like guitars, what do you document to CYA? With electronics, I always photograph the serial number and make sure the serial number is in the listing photos. I'm not sure what I can do to protect myself from return-fraud on a guitar. I also assume I should buy insurance (seems like a no brainer), but anything else?
Again, in the context of guitars, $250-$400 is pretty moderate, so you might not have as much to worry about as you think, as far as being targeted for a scam. But yes, serial numbers and insurance and tracking & requiring signature at delivery.
I've seen sellers state that they won't accept bids from people with less than a certain feedback score, but I've no idea how this works. If you're only interested in selling in the U.S. or continental U.S., state that as part of your listing. "Overseas buyers" are often a scam (especially if there's some kind of middleman involved), so if you note "US only" up front, you can safely ignore any requests to sell the guitar to someone in another country.
Otherwise, there are plenty of complaints out there about ebay's buyer protection policies providing opportunities for a variety of buyer frauds, and not much to be done about it besides hope for the best, keep the money available so a refund doesn't screw you up, and get ebay involved ASAP if you think you're being targeted for return fraud because they might provide you some help or backup or at least not tank your ebay account & reputation. Sorry I don't have better news, there.
Craigslist or consignment at a local music instrument store are options you could look into, if selling a guitar on ebay makes you really nervous.
posted by soundguy99 at 12:49 PM on March 22, 2015 [1 favorite]
It sounds like your partner & you should be able to cover the basics - whether the neck is straight, no fret buzz or other odd rattling noises, no cracks or major dings or dents, no major scratches, the tuning machines work properly, the strings stay in place and the guitar stays in tune. It wouldn't hurt to have a "more expert" guitar-playing friend take a look, too, if you've got one.
Otherwise, it's not like there's any agreed-upon numbers-based (or, y'know, "Excellent", "very good", "good", "fair") rating system or anything. Plus I think most people tend to take seller descriptions with a grain of salt anyway, so if there are no major problems or cosmetic damage you can safely call it "excellent" or "very good." It's probably worth stating that this is a guitar with "low miles" on it - no gigs, stayed in a smoke-free house (if true), only played a few times, etc etc etc.
2. What measurements should I list? What details need to be put out in the open?
PICS PICS PICS PICS.
Lots of pics. Clear, in-focus pics that show how good a condition the guitar is in, or ones that clearly show any scratches or dings or cracks if you discover any. Pics of the serial number are good, too. Otherwise, manufacturer & model name/number, description of the body materials. People will, I think, generally do their own research, so you don't need to list the exact dimensions of the body or anything.
If it's a fairly obscure guitar, it might help to add links to whatever webpages you can find about the manufacturer/maker and/or the model. You should do plenty of searching yourself for these pages before you list it, if only so you can answer questions.
Should I assume the person buying this guitar already knows what it sounds like and that's why they're buying it? I realize someone could buy it, decide they hate the sound and return it; what can I do to lessen the chances of this?
Well, assuming anything is probably not the best idea, and it's not just about how the guitar sounds but how it physically feels as you play it - and the problem is all the dimensions and info in the world won't actually provide much useful information for the player; they need the guitar in their hands. Having said that, your guitar is not actually all that high-value in the world of guitars, so being scrupulously honest and clear about the condition the guitar is in (and packing it really really well) is probably your best safety net. If they don't like the way the guitar sounds or plays after they've received it, they're likely to just chalk it up to "Fine guitar, not for me" and then try to re-sell it themselves rather than try to return it to you. It's certainly possible someone could try to return it, or claim that the guitar was not as described in the listing, so keep the money around and available so you can process a refund with minimal hassle and financial hit to yourself (PayPal's practices for holding/withdrawing/refunding money have supposedly caused some sellers no end of grief, for example, so read up on those practices if you're accepting PayPal.)
Should I just take the guitar, now, to a place like Mailboxes Etc and get it fitted for a box and protective packaging, as well as weighed while in the box/packaging?
YES, absolutely, this is the best idea. Plus the dimensions of the box may put your guitar into "oversize/overweight" territory (even if it's not actually all that heavy or large.) $25 - $50 U.S. seems to be about the going rate for shipping guitars in the continental U.S. Go ahead and list your shipping costs in your listing, no-one expects free shipping on this kind of item from a private seller (from a retail business, sure, but not an individual), and if they do they're a fool.
And who is the best carrier for shipping a guitar - UPS/Fed Ex over USPS? What options should I give buyers?
Considering that (AFAIK) both UPS & Fed Ex often use USPS as part of their transport system anyway, you might as well just see who's got the best price. Most heavy/large musical gear I see on ebay doesn't tend to give many options - they're shipping it how they ship it, for $[x] price, and that's it.
When selling high-value items like guitars, what do you document to CYA? With electronics, I always photograph the serial number and make sure the serial number is in the listing photos. I'm not sure what I can do to protect myself from return-fraud on a guitar. I also assume I should buy insurance (seems like a no brainer), but anything else?
Again, in the context of guitars, $250-$400 is pretty moderate, so you might not have as much to worry about as you think, as far as being targeted for a scam. But yes, serial numbers and insurance and tracking & requiring signature at delivery.
I've seen sellers state that they won't accept bids from people with less than a certain feedback score, but I've no idea how this works. If you're only interested in selling in the U.S. or continental U.S., state that as part of your listing. "Overseas buyers" are often a scam (especially if there's some kind of middleman involved), so if you note "US only" up front, you can safely ignore any requests to sell the guitar to someone in another country.
Otherwise, there are plenty of complaints out there about ebay's buyer protection policies providing opportunities for a variety of buyer frauds, and not much to be done about it besides hope for the best, keep the money available so a refund doesn't screw you up, and get ebay involved ASAP if you think you're being targeted for return fraud because they might provide you some help or backup or at least not tank your ebay account & reputation. Sorry I don't have better news, there.
Craigslist or consignment at a local music instrument store are options you could look into, if selling a guitar on ebay makes you really nervous.
posted by soundguy99 at 12:49 PM on March 22, 2015 [1 favorite]
Really great advice above regarding the guitar. My additions:
The main benefit of having the shippers also pack it for you is that you are (supposedly) in the clear if the item gets damaged due to "poor packing" -- it would be on the packer/shipper at that point. Packing a guitar isn't rocket science, and as mentioned above, it will be a decent chunk of your sale to pay for someone else to pack it for you.
There are horror stories about all shippers out there, but if I was to pack a guitar and ship it tomorrow, I would go with FedEx or USPS, leaning more towards USPS. If you go with USPS, make sure you get USPS' in-house insurance, I've heard they're easier to deal with if something comes up.
When you create the listing, you can select to only sell to members in the continental US (only members with a US address will see the ad) -- this is my standard practice and it's one of the easiest ways to protect yourself from scammers.
Personally, I don't offer returns for anything on eBay. Protects you from scams and headaches. If you document everything well, the buyer knows what they're getting and will be willing to accept the risk. You have a decent feedback rating and that should give buyers confidence in you.
Seconding that it probably wouldn't hurt to go local and see what a store nearby will give you. After eBay fees and PayPal fees, and the hassle of shipping a guitar, they might end up giving you a similar amount. Dealing with randos on Craigslist, though, is not worth any amount of money in my book.
posted by puritycontrol at 9:13 PM on March 22, 2015 [1 favorite]
The main benefit of having the shippers also pack it for you is that you are (supposedly) in the clear if the item gets damaged due to "poor packing" -- it would be on the packer/shipper at that point. Packing a guitar isn't rocket science, and as mentioned above, it will be a decent chunk of your sale to pay for someone else to pack it for you.
There are horror stories about all shippers out there, but if I was to pack a guitar and ship it tomorrow, I would go with FedEx or USPS, leaning more towards USPS. If you go with USPS, make sure you get USPS' in-house insurance, I've heard they're easier to deal with if something comes up.
When you create the listing, you can select to only sell to members in the continental US (only members with a US address will see the ad) -- this is my standard practice and it's one of the easiest ways to protect yourself from scammers.
Personally, I don't offer returns for anything on eBay. Protects you from scams and headaches. If you document everything well, the buyer knows what they're getting and will be willing to accept the risk. You have a decent feedback rating and that should give buyers confidence in you.
Seconding that it probably wouldn't hurt to go local and see what a store nearby will give you. After eBay fees and PayPal fees, and the hassle of shipping a guitar, they might end up giving you a similar amount. Dealing with randos on Craigslist, though, is not worth any amount of money in my book.
posted by puritycontrol at 9:13 PM on March 22, 2015 [1 favorite]
With the records I think the best approach is to say include pics of both sides of the sleeve and the record itself, and say something like, "The record plays well and seems to be in good condition, someone wrote "jimmy" on the back cover (see pics). I am not a record grader and this is a 30 year old piece of vinyl - bid accordingly."
You basically can't do high end record grading unless you do it all the time, so why bother? Be clear, honest, and thorough but not super detailed or technical about the condition as you perceive it, start the bidding low and let the chips fall where they may.
posted by dirtdirt at 6:49 AM on March 23, 2015 [1 favorite]
You basically can't do high end record grading unless you do it all the time, so why bother? Be clear, honest, and thorough but not super detailed or technical about the condition as you perceive it, start the bidding low and let the chips fall where they may.
posted by dirtdirt at 6:49 AM on March 23, 2015 [1 favorite]
This doesn't apply for the vinyl, but you might consider using reverb.com to sell the guitar. The advantage is an audience that's focused on buying and selling musical instruments and gear. There should also be plenty of examples of similar guitars you can use as a template for selling your own.
posted by tommasz at 10:26 AM on March 23, 2015 [2 favorites]
posted by tommasz at 10:26 AM on March 23, 2015 [2 favorites]
i occasionally work for someone who lists and sells thousands of albums on ebay.
in regarding your ratings, sight ratings are perfectly fine. in many cases the album i post has the rating lowered slightly--so a mint minus is turned into a vg plus and whatnot. indicate in the description if there's writing on the cover or label. don't bother trying to fix any worn covers. they get rated the same way albums do but with notes for common damage like ring wear and cut out holes.
my employer uses custom lp shipping boxes that are commercially available. he even sells the boxes. on particularly valuable records and/or covers he'll ship the record in a separate dummy cover--that is he'll put the actual disc into a 100 strings album cover and sleeve and keep the unpeeled velvet underground cover empty.
you don't need a lot of pictures unless it's colored vinyl or there's some special trinket included. most of the major release trinkets (read sgt pepper) are pretty well known and don't need to be photographed.
posted by lester's sock puppet at 10:33 AM on March 23, 2015
in regarding your ratings, sight ratings are perfectly fine. in many cases the album i post has the rating lowered slightly--so a mint minus is turned into a vg plus and whatnot. indicate in the description if there's writing on the cover or label. don't bother trying to fix any worn covers. they get rated the same way albums do but with notes for common damage like ring wear and cut out holes.
my employer uses custom lp shipping boxes that are commercially available. he even sells the boxes. on particularly valuable records and/or covers he'll ship the record in a separate dummy cover--that is he'll put the actual disc into a 100 strings album cover and sleeve and keep the unpeeled velvet underground cover empty.
you don't need a lot of pictures unless it's colored vinyl or there's some special trinket included. most of the major release trinkets (read sgt pepper) are pretty well known and don't need to be photographed.
posted by lester's sock puppet at 10:33 AM on March 23, 2015
My son's guitar teacher told me that there is a guy in our nearest big city (Providence, RI) that has turned his general pawn shop into a specialized guitar shop (with a few general items on the side).
So there may be a way to do this on a consignment basis if you have the time to wait.
posted by wenestvedt at 9:39 AM on March 24, 2015
So there may be a way to do this on a consignment basis if you have the time to wait.
posted by wenestvedt at 9:39 AM on March 24, 2015
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2. If you have the model no. you can look up other people's listings and see what they put, or you might be able to find the relevant measurements on the net somewhere.
3. Guitars suck to ship. Especially acoustics... I've had better luck (for guitars) going to places where they'll wrap and ship your package than doing it myself, but it'll take a big chunk out of your potential earnings.
posted by drezdn at 11:35 AM on March 22, 2015