How do I jean?

November 26, 2014 8:05 AM

No matter what size I am, or brand I try, I can never get jeans to fit. My shape just doesn't seem to fit anything - size A isn;t just tight but won't allow me to do them up, size B does do up but is so baggy that I can take them off without undoing them. I have an hourglass figure and I think it's the combination of large thighs and hips and a comparatively small waist that's the issue. Do I just give up?

I used to wear Gap Curvy (they don't stock my size anymore in the UK) but even then the cut seemed to vary from year to year. I'm in the plus size range at the moment, which rules out Levi's Curve (sizes are more limited here) and many high-street ranges, but this doesn't seem to be affected by my current weight - even at my smallest (a size only achieved through illness) I had the same issue. For this reason, I don't own any trousers at all because they are such a hassle to buy. I have about a ten inch difference between my hips and my waist, and I seem to have larger-than-average thighs rather than a larger bum - many ranges designed to fit curvier people assume you have a huge ass.

Are there any brands which are better for my shape? I'm quite frustrated, as I finally managed to track down the Marks and Spencer jeans in their curvier fit which seems to be discontinued, but while they seemed to fit perfectly on wear 1, after a few wears they were so loose around the bum and crotch that they were uncomfortable to wear. Without having a bum amputation, I'm not sure how that happened.

The answer might be to either wait until I get to the US and try Curve, or give up jeans altogether, but it's getting too cold for a skirt and tights! Anyone else had this problem?

posted by mippy to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (35 answers total)

You gotta just get them altered. You will not believe how much easier this is going to make your life and it costs like $15.

1. find jeans that fit your butt and thighs (there will be a giant gap at the waist)
2. take them to a good alterations place - a lot of dry cleaners do this
3. have then taken in at the waist (and hemmed if that's an issue as well.)

I'm super hard to fit but jeans are just not an issue anymore now that I discovered how easy this. Good luck!
posted by fingersandtoes at 8:11 AM on November 26, 2014 [4 favorites]

Seriously, just get them professionally altered. I am much happier with jeans now that I buy them to fit in the thighs and butt, and have a seamstress alter the waist and length. It's annoying to have to pay more on top of the cost of new pants, but very much worth it.
posted by stowaway at 8:13 AM on November 26, 2014

Response by poster: This is the problem - the too big jeans I have don't fit at the butt - they are much too big. The next size down won't fasten. From my experience with sewing, I don't know if there's enough that fits there to get them altered.

One thing I missed out in my question - I'm 5ft 10, would some of my issues be related to the rise not being long enough for me as well?
posted by mippy at 8:16 AM on November 26, 2014

the too big jeans I have don't fit at the butt - they are much too big
That will actually make it easier to alter - more fabric is more for them to play with.
posted by soelo at 8:26 AM on November 26, 2014 [2 favorites]

check out keirin cut jeans. and the nytimes on jeans for people with big thighs.
posted by entropone at 8:27 AM on November 26, 2014 [1 favorite]

Get them made to measure at Make Your Own Jeans.
posted by DarlingBri at 8:27 AM on November 26, 2014 [5 favorites]

I'm 5'11" w big thighs/hips and a small waist. I feel your pain. I like jcrew jeans and (if you want to spend more money) 7s. Jcrew matchstick are my preferred shape, then I add darts in the back from the waistband to the top of the pocket. For the 7s I get the kind with the higher rise; the "long legs" variety if I want to wear heels.
posted by melissasaurus at 8:28 AM on November 26, 2014

Does anyplace carry Lee jeans in the UK? Their classic fit jeans are higher waisted and pretty roomy in the thighs, and have always been reasonably good for big-hipped/small-waisted self compared to more 'modern' cut jeans.
posted by drlith at 8:46 AM on November 26, 2014

I have an hourglass figure and I think it's the combination of large thighs and hips and a comparatively small waist that's the issue. Do I just give up?

US perspective: yes, for now. At the moment all the jeans available in stores (that I've seen, and I've seriously spent waaaay too much time searching in brick & mortar stores and online) are either super skinny; straight or boot leg (meaning very tight in the hips/butt/thighs); or boyfriend, which makes people with our shape look like giant lumps. But trends reverse, they always do, and I'm pretty sure that in a few years wide-leg (for real wide-leg, not skinny to the knee and wide at the hem) jeans and trouser jeans will be as in as they were about 8 years ago.

On preview: I looked at a bunch of those custom jean-making sites and currently, none of their options allow for a real wide leg or even a traditional roomier bootcut. The closest they come is something like this "trouser" jean which anyone with larger a butt/thighs/hips will look at and say hahahahahNOPE.

I'm sticking to pants (meaning trousers, not underwear;) until styles change. If you're younger than I am, you could maybe try joggers, aka fancy sweatpants.
posted by DestinationUnknown at 8:54 AM on November 26, 2014

I'll admit I'm out of my wheelhouse here, but would the whole Levi's shrink to fit process help? Or is that just marketing hype?
posted by novelgazer at 8:56 AM on November 26, 2014

Yeah, when my seamstress takes in my pants for me she doesn't just nip it in the waist, she puts in these darts between the waist and pockets that really change the slope (?) back there. So I guess my first comment was misleading - I don't find pants that fit perfectly in the butt but just need the waist taken in. It's more like, pants are generally right style/fabric/colour, it accommodates my hips and bottom of butt, baggy at top of hips, waist like clown pants. It's like only my thighs are keeping the pants up pre-alteration. And then the seamstress does her magic and I have a pair of sleek, well-fitting pants.

Take your pants that are too big in to a tailor and have a chat about fit before you go nuts trying to buy the perfect jeans.
posted by stowaway at 8:56 AM on November 26, 2014 [2 favorites]

I got jeans from this place (based in India, I'm in the USA) a few years ago and they were fine. It took a while for them to ship.

They will take any measurements you care to send (front/back inseam, thigh, knee, leg opening) and make your jeans for you. They may not be super designer jeans, but they will be comfortable, and you get to choose from a variety of denims and washes (or no wash).

Cost with shipping to the US seems to be ~$80 for one pair. The cost without shipping is maybe ~$62-63

I just ordered some "raw denim" (unwashed) jeans, which I don't necessarily recommend to you - they will be constructed a bit large and will shrink - but I like the idea of it and can't find that anywhere else.

(I just read DestinationUnknown's comment - the pants she linked don't seem to allow custom fitting, but most do, for example these. You go through the select/add to cart, then enter your measurements when you create an account.)
posted by amtho at 9:02 AM on November 26, 2014

Try looking at Freddie's of Pinewood. Many jeans only go up to a 34" waist but I've seen occasional plus size jeans there. Of course you may not be crazy about the vintage styling, but it's an option.

I'm in the UK too and have the same issues (hourglass, plus sized, long legs). One year I found jeans in Matalan - of all places - but the quality isn't great.
posted by kariebookish at 9:04 AM on November 26, 2014

I just read DestinationUnknown's comment - the pants she linked don't seem to allow custom fitting, but most do, for example these. You go through the select/add to cart, then enter your measurements when you create an account

The ones I linked were the only result when I searched for "wide leg" on that site. I tried the customizing process on the pair amtho linked to and was only allowed to choose style details, not shape, I guess because I didn't make an account. If anyone here has recently ordered custom jeans that were legit wide legs, like 23" or 24" thigh, and it actually worked and they looked good, I'd love to hear about it!
posted by DestinationUnknown at 9:21 AM on November 26, 2014

Response by poster: amtho - that looks good, but I'd need to add 20% to the price for customs charges here, which might make them fairly expensive.
posted by mippy at 9:22 AM on November 26, 2014

I have large thighs, and I like Lee's relaxed fit jeans. They are cheap enough ($30 in USD, often on sale) so that it might be okay to pay on top of that for alterations. They are a pretty utilitarian pant, not super stylish, but I have bought them reliably for years b/c I hate jeans shopping with a passion.
posted by megancita at 9:27 AM on November 26, 2014

Also, re: sagging. The rule of thumb I've always heard is that you want to wear denim that has no more than 1% spandex content. Even that much sometimes results in saggier jeans at the end of the day for me.
posted by megancita at 9:32 AM on November 26, 2014

Another vote for alterations if you don't want to stay on the endless quest to find a perfect pair off the shelf. My alterations person does a great job with jeans and trousers and leaves no trace of what magic they've done to make the pants fit properly.
posted by quince at 9:47 AM on November 26, 2014

One thing I missed out in my question - I'm 5ft 10, would some of my issues be related to the rise not being long enough for me as well?

Yep, quite likely. I'm 5'11" with the legs of a 5'6" woman; all my height is in my rise (2" more than average) & long waist (about 3" more). DestinationUnknown saying "for now" is right on: the current rage is skinny and low-rise. Seems like it's been years now... higher rises are starting to make inroads again, so let's hope that continues.

Lee is a brand with a good reputation amongst women cyclists (big thighs & hams, tiny waists), but I don't see it very often here in Europe. I've had good luck with Uniqlo; their whole brand identity is dedicated to classically-styled basics. It's been a godsend, for the last couple of years they've been the ONLY brand of jeans I can afford that fits. And like you, I have tried, oh have I ever tried. When you have a longer rise, there's nothing you can do with stuff that sits too low. (I know how to sew too.)
posted by fraula at 9:48 AM on November 26, 2014

Response by poster: I don't have larger thighs because of muscle - that's just where my fat goes.
posted by mippy at 9:55 AM on November 26, 2014

Do you have Old Navy available to you? I have a similarly hourglass figure and LOVE LOVE LOVE Old Navy's Sweetheart-cut jeans. They fit me damn near perfectly.
posted by altopower at 10:07 AM on November 26, 2014

I hear you. I have similar issues and I've found that Dorothy Perkins bootcut jeans* are the best fit, plus they're cheap enough (£15 or £25 for two pairs) that if they don't wear well it won't break your heart too much. They're quite generous in the thigh and the slight flare helps things balance out. They go up to a UK 20 I think.

*I know they're not "in" like skinny jeans but I've just got to the "fuck that" stage.
posted by billiebee at 10:22 AM on November 26, 2014

I'm curvy and I have the best luck with men's low rise jeans. I'm not confident that will work for you, but it can't hurt to try some on.
posted by rainbaby at 11:04 AM on November 26, 2014

When I lived in the UK some years ago and wore a full-bottomed UK 16, for jeans, I liked Oasis the very very best (they go to size 16 and offer very flattering cuts), River Island next best (they go up to 18; buying there just required some watchfulness around crazy fades and too many zippers); then Monsoon (much greater variety of sizes, less trendy and some odd cuts sometimes but good quality iirc). Debenham's has lots of sizes, I don't remember loving the styles but you might get lucky. Warehouse and H&M go to 18 but were unreliable wrt fit.

Taking things in sounds like a good idea, but ime approximately 1/5 high street tailors can do it without mangling the back seam or waistband. I'd rather get as close to a decent fit as possible and wear belts. Low-rise cuts, which aren't my first choice, at least tend to yield good-enough compromises in fit (which is why I think they're still so popular); with those, I'd usually guard myself with a long cami and longer tops.
posted by cotton dress sock at 11:21 AM on November 26, 2014

As someone just into the plus size range with a 13 inch difference between her waist and hip measurements and muscular thighs from dance and weight lifting, legging jeans have been amazing for me.

I'm not talking about leggings with jean print on them. I mean super stretchy denim assembled like jeans, complete with a zipper fly and top stitching. They often sacrifice the front pockets, but most of them have real back pockets.

I lean toward punk/goth style a bit, so the "skinny" style they have really works with the rest of my wardrobe. They look fantastic with tall boots!
posted by burntflowers at 11:33 AM on November 26, 2014

I think perhaps trying higher waisted jeans might help the issue as I find they have a smaller waist/larger hip, get some that fit your bum and have a seamstress take in the waist to suit. I have the same problem although I'm 5'4 and size 8, smaller sized clothes seem to assume you have no hips or bum to speak of so my 8" difference in measurements causes a lot of fit issues. The best fitting pair of jeans I own is a high waisted pair from Sainsburys so don't rule out supermarkets! They also did them in a range of leg lengths, although mine are about 5 years old so they might have changed this.
posted by Peetree at 11:53 AM on November 26, 2014

I have giant hips and thighs, with a ten inch difference between my hips and waist. The best jeans I've found are from LOFT. I think they're only in the United States, but they ship internationally. I wear the curvy fit.They come in tall sizes too.

They run really large. I usually wear US size 12 or 14 jeans and fit into a US 10 at LOFT. My plus-size mom usually wears a US size 16 or 18 in jeans and fits into a US 14 at LOFT.

Full disclosure: I work for them right now as a retail drone, but I am not getting anything out of recommending this to you.

Also: If you're trying to stay warm in dresses and tights (I wear dresses and tights most of the time, even in the winter), please try sweater tights.
posted by topoisomerase at 11:55 AM on November 26, 2014

DestinationUnknown: yes, you specify measurements after creating an account. However, it looks like the jeans you originally linked don't accept measurements for some reason -- the ones I've bought, and other jeans I've looked at on that site, do accept measurements.


When you click "customize now", it takes you through selecting the fly style, pocket lining, thread, pocket style, and adding comments, then adds the jeans to your cart. In the cart listing, you click "add new measurements", which lets you create a new account (or log in to an existing account). Then you click on "+ Create New Measurements".

I chose "Fix" fit, which lets you specify the exact measurements of the jeans. You could also choose one of the other options (Classic Comfort Fi, Straight Fit, Bootcut, Semi Baggy/Baggy, or Slimmer Tapering), and then you give your own body measurements and they calculate the fabric dimensions based on your preference.

Fields you can specify for measurements include Length, Waist, Seat, Front Rise, Back Rise, Thighs, Knee, and Leg Opening. I believe you can also specify additional measurements in the memo field for the shopping cart item, but it's awkward because that comes up earlier in the ordering process. However, I think their customer service is responsive, so you can just send them an e-mail message and ask for what you want.

There are also "add-on" items you can add to the shopping cart for things like deeper pockets, but I've found it a little difficult to navigate to them for some reason. Again, e-mailing customer support might be the way to go (I _really_ want deeper pockets, both for the front and, for my phone, in the back).
posted by amtho at 12:09 PM on November 26, 2014 [1 favorite]

Here are a couple of US options that work for me (5'11" tall, 48" hip, 36" waist).

If you have access, Old Navy Sweetheart jeans have long inseam options (size 16 for me). The skinny jeans are too big in the waist for me but the bootcuts are ok. Lane Bryant also used to make these excellent Right Fit jeans, color-coded yellow, red and blue (you want blue--I wear a 14 tall blue). However they have disappeared from the website but I still find them in thrift stores and on ebay.

I have tried Eddie Bauer curvy fit jeans and they are insufficiently curvy. I will have to check out LOFT.
posted by esoterrica at 12:58 PM on November 26, 2014

I have an 11 inch difference between my waist and hips, although I'm 5'2". I too used to swear by Gap Curvy styles, but they've changed and I no longer buy them. Honestly, I'm having trouble too.

One brand I've found that fits the bill quite nicely is NYDJ ("Not Your Daughter's Jeans"). This site leads me to believe they are available to you in the UK. The brand does have a lot of spandex, for what it's worth, and I didn't buy them for the "slimming" effect although I appreciate it.

I'm a traditional hourglass figure, like you, due to my hip-waist ratio. My similarly shaped friend had sworn by NYDJ jeans for years, and I finally listened. They are a godsend. However, I predict because of the high spandex content that I'll have to replace them more often than I used to replace my Gap Curvy jeans, because they tend to stretch out quickly. The laundry directions say not to dry them, but they stretch out so much between washings that I purposely dry them to shrink them again. I'm probably contributing to shortening their lives, but they look really really good right out of the dryer.
posted by ImproviseOrDie at 2:04 PM on November 26, 2014

I'm a 5'10" hourglassy gal (145 pounds), and Not Your Daughter's Jeans are my new love. Not cheap... $110 or so a pair. I recently picked up their leggings and they stretch a bunch without getting loose. I also like J Brand. They are less stretchy, feel fairly starchy actually, but they make my butt look like a cute little heart rather than an overpacked saddlebag. For this, I pay the extra. Try second hand stores. They have the fancy pants that are already broken in, and they charge half the price for new. And NEVER machine dry them. EVER. Line dry.
posted by hippychick at 3:30 PM on November 26, 2014 [1 favorite]

I'm an uber hourglass too and men's pants have been great. Higher rises, looser through the thigh and calves, and because you have to size up for the waist I've found my arse fits in them fine. They also have great pockets. I would never have tried or believed it was a thing except I put my husband's jeans on one day and realised that if I sized up they'd probably be pretty comfy and trialled my hypothesis and now have a nice pair of navy pants that fit beautifully, even after a few months of wear.
posted by geek anachronism at 3:55 PM on November 26, 2014

Try the ultra straight styles. I also have a 10" difference between hips and waist, maybe more, but I have no butt and muscular thighs. I'm tall. I get the whole can't fasten the waist on one size down yet can take most jeans off without undoing them thing all the time. Straight boy cut jeans in a tall size or two bigger than normal fit me like a dream. No sagging at the butt, no pinching at the waist.
posted by fshgrl at 4:05 PM on November 26, 2014

seconding Uniqlo. I got a a few pairs and am very happy. Ranged in price from on sale for $10 to $30. Some they tailor. Definitely worth checking out. Keep in mind some will shrink in the wash so you should by a size or two smaller than you are. For me I do have to wear a belt with them. I think the waist tends to run big, but this is what you can tailor or belt. For the price I'm happy.
posted by lillian.elmtree at 4:40 PM on November 26, 2014

I'm 5'10"; my waist is 36 inches; my hips are 55 inches, and I'm a weightlifter, with resultant monster quads. I feel your pain! And yes, getting jeans with a high enough rise is crucial. Damn the low-rise trend!

The only jeans that fit my proportions well are the Levis 580 defined-waist bootcut plus-size jeans. These things are freaking magical. The Levis Curve ID Supremes are also good, though a bit tighter in the thighs than you might want. I can never find them in stores, either; I either order them online, or call up Levis directly and have them go find me some.

The Old Navy sweetheart-cut jeans just don't fit my waist at all; even with a belt, they gap spectacularly.

Or, as mentioned above, just get the jeans that fit your hips and thighs, then get the waist taken in.
posted by culfinglin at 10:07 AM on December 1, 2014