I don't want Cruella De Ville's dressing table
December 12, 2012 4:28 PM Subscribe
Is it still moral/ethical to buy cosmetics from companies who have decided to enter the Chinese market? If not, are there any mainstream/high-street options left?
This may be putting a sticking plaster on a wound in animal welfare terms - I am not vegetarian, am comfortable wearing hides of animals I will eat, and thanks to a chronic condition will probably spend the rest of my life taking medication which was almost certainly tested on animals. However, cosmetic testing has always made me feel very uncomfortable. Medical testing for me is a necessary evil - there are no indie drug companies producing cruelty-free versions of my medicine, it's difficult to boycott something which offers no freedom of choice, and I need what I'm prescribed to keep well and healthy. Cosmetics, on the other hand, are fun but absolutely not a necessity, and I don't want Bambi or Thumper to be lipsticked to death.
I've always thought products sold in the EU (I'm in the UK) were fine as animal testing in the EU has long been banned. However, the sale of Urban Decay - who emphasised their anti-testing stance and have produced vegan products - to L'Oreal, a company which many boycott because of their alleged propensity to test made me wonder if I'm not looking hard enough. I'm aware there are lots of great specifically cruelty-free/vegan companies out there, and I'm entirely happy to investigate those as and when I need new stuff. My concern is about the stuff that's already in my make-up bag/shower, and available in the stores where I live.
The reason that companies selling in China is so controversial is because the Chinese government require all cosmetics to be animal-tested before going on sale there. Other sites, though, tell me it's fine to use these products as 'it's only done in China by other agents, not the companies', or take the stance that you have to be hardline vegan to feel able to care about it. And other sites have incredibly unpleasant images of abused animals which I'd frankly prefer not to see. With many companies being owned by other companies, it's hard to keep track of who's selling there and who isn't, and that ownership means that 99% of the products in the department stores and drugstores here may or may not be sold there.
What I want to know is: if I decide to buy a product from a brand manufactured in the EU who are selling in China, am I indirectly funding animal testing? Or is it still OK to buy things approved for sale in the EU? For example, there might only be two or three foundations on the mainstream market that fit my very pale skin, but if the bottle I bought in January is owned by a company who decided to enter the Chinese market in July, then I want to know whether I can replace this with a clear conscience.
This may be putting a sticking plaster on a wound in animal welfare terms - I am not vegetarian, am comfortable wearing hides of animals I will eat, and thanks to a chronic condition will probably spend the rest of my life taking medication which was almost certainly tested on animals. However, cosmetic testing has always made me feel very uncomfortable. Medical testing for me is a necessary evil - there are no indie drug companies producing cruelty-free versions of my medicine, it's difficult to boycott something which offers no freedom of choice, and I need what I'm prescribed to keep well and healthy. Cosmetics, on the other hand, are fun but absolutely not a necessity, and I don't want Bambi or Thumper to be lipsticked to death.
I've always thought products sold in the EU (I'm in the UK) were fine as animal testing in the EU has long been banned. However, the sale of Urban Decay - who emphasised their anti-testing stance and have produced vegan products - to L'Oreal, a company which many boycott because of their alleged propensity to test made me wonder if I'm not looking hard enough. I'm aware there are lots of great specifically cruelty-free/vegan companies out there, and I'm entirely happy to investigate those as and when I need new stuff. My concern is about the stuff that's already in my make-up bag/shower, and available in the stores where I live.
The reason that companies selling in China is so controversial is because the Chinese government require all cosmetics to be animal-tested before going on sale there. Other sites, though, tell me it's fine to use these products as 'it's only done in China by other agents, not the companies', or take the stance that you have to be hardline vegan to feel able to care about it. And other sites have incredibly unpleasant images of abused animals which I'd frankly prefer not to see. With many companies being owned by other companies, it's hard to keep track of who's selling there and who isn't, and that ownership means that 99% of the products in the department stores and drugstores here may or may not be sold there.
What I want to know is: if I decide to buy a product from a brand manufactured in the EU who are selling in China, am I indirectly funding animal testing? Or is it still OK to buy things approved for sale in the EU? For example, there might only be two or three foundations on the mainstream market that fit my very pale skin, but if the bottle I bought in January is owned by a company who decided to enter the Chinese market in July, then I want to know whether I can replace this with a clear conscience.
This is one of those things that only you can tell if you're comfortable with, but I'd say that if you're against animal testing then it shouldn't matter if the company farms out their testing to others or has their own test facilities: it still wouldn't be done if the company didn't ask for it to be done. So, yes, Thumper is still being lipsticked to death to keep that lipstick you use being manufactured.
One great thing about the internet and the profusion of smaller cosmetic companies is that it's a lot easier to find and order replacements than it used to be, so I suspect you can still find a foundation that suits you even if you are troubled by the ethics of the company that produces the one you use now.
posted by lesbiassparrow at 4:35 PM on December 12, 2012 [1 favorite]
One great thing about the internet and the profusion of smaller cosmetic companies is that it's a lot easier to find and order replacements than it used to be, so I suspect you can still find a foundation that suits you even if you are troubled by the ethics of the company that produces the one you use now.
posted by lesbiassparrow at 4:35 PM on December 12, 2012 [1 favorite]
I'm pretty sure you're going to need to switch to entirely hand-made & locally produced (ideally, by you) cosmetics if you want to avoid helping the market in China. China's such a huge part of the global economy, and there are so many consumer goods conglomerates (example) you're realistically helping support animal testing of cosmetics there by buying Del Monte pears here.
posted by SMPA at 4:37 PM on December 12, 2012
posted by SMPA at 4:37 PM on December 12, 2012
Response by poster: Just to be clear, I'm not anti-China per se - though I am a little aware of the objections to goods made there, it's near impossible to avoid Chinese-made products if you're a regular city person rather than someone who can grow their own food and make their own clothes. It's the direct funding of cosmetic testing on animals that concerns me.
posted by mippy at 4:41 PM on December 12, 2012
posted by mippy at 4:41 PM on December 12, 2012
Is it still moral/ethical to buy cosmetics from companies who have decided to enter the Chinese market?
Not really.
If not, are there any mainstream/high-street options left?
Not many. I am also conflicted with MAC and The Body Shop because they've both been very anti-testing. MAC seem to do a lot of good re: AIDS awareness. But, ultimately, they are still part of that machine.
The only alternative really are smaller brands, often very local brands.
posted by heyjude at 6:10 PM on December 12, 2012
Not really.
If not, are there any mainstream/high-street options left?
Not many. I am also conflicted with MAC and The Body Shop because they've both been very anti-testing. MAC seem to do a lot of good re: AIDS awareness. But, ultimately, they are still part of that machine.
The only alternative really are smaller brands, often very local brands.
posted by heyjude at 6:10 PM on December 12, 2012
What I want to know is: if I decide to buy a product from a brand manufactured in the EU who are selling in China, am I indirectly funding animal testing?
Yes- companies are paying to use animal testing whether they do it in-house or not. Whether or not you want to take it to the level of conglomerates is up to you, but animal testing is being done specifically to sell those cosmetics brands in the China market, by the companies in question. Here's a list of current brands (probably US focused) that don't do animal testing. Kind of a shockingly short list, actually.
One independent company I like that's not on the list is SilkNaturals. They have a few really nice loose powder dupes ( UD Naked 1 and 2 palettes, Orgasm) and their powder mineral foundation is higher quality than MAC Studio Fix.
posted by oneirodynia at 6:14 PM on December 12, 2012 [1 favorite]
Yes- companies are paying to use animal testing whether they do it in-house or not. Whether or not you want to take it to the level of conglomerates is up to you, but animal testing is being done specifically to sell those cosmetics brands in the China market, by the companies in question. Here's a list of current brands (probably US focused) that don't do animal testing. Kind of a shockingly short list, actually.
One independent company I like that's not on the list is SilkNaturals. They have a few really nice loose powder dupes ( UD Naked 1 and 2 palettes, Orgasm) and their powder mineral foundation is higher quality than MAC Studio Fix.
posted by oneirodynia at 6:14 PM on December 12, 2012 [1 favorite]
Urban Decay backed out of the China deal, but that's not reflected in the veggiebeauty updates.
posted by batmonkey at 7:53 PM on December 12, 2012
posted by batmonkey at 7:53 PM on December 12, 2012
batmonkey, it's because they were just bought a couple weeks ago by L'Oreal. Though they aren't being sold in China yet, they are now owned by a parent company that does do business there.
posted by oneirodynia at 9:29 PM on December 12, 2012
posted by oneirodynia at 9:29 PM on December 12, 2012
The reason that companies selling in China is so controversial is because the Chinese government require all cosmetics to be animal-tested before going on sale there. Other sites, though, tell me it's fine to use these products as 'it's only done in China by other agents, not the companies', or take the stance that you have to be hardline vegan to feel able to care about it.
I am by NO means a "hardline vegan", but animal testing is animal testing no matter who does it because it creates suffering.
I'm just as conflicted as you are about my cosmetics, and decided a couple of years ago to be a lot more careful about what I purchased. For what it's worth, this is the list that I refer to for cruelty free cosmetics. Right now at least, Urban Decay (I believe they released a statement saying that they will maintain their position on animal testing even after the sale to L'Oreal), Nars, Lorac, Wet N Wild and Stila, among others, are still classified as brands that do not test on animals. It could stand to be updated though--there are so many new brands in the market that aren't on the list. Apart from that, I'm committed to using things up and buying only the necessities--no "hauls" allowed whatsoever.
There are also a number of organic skincare and makeup boutiques that ostensibly sell vegan/cruelty free products, like Spirit Beauty Lounge and Skin Botanica that you could try. Best of luck to you!
posted by peripathetic at 11:34 PM on December 12, 2012
I am by NO means a "hardline vegan", but animal testing is animal testing no matter who does it because it creates suffering.
I'm just as conflicted as you are about my cosmetics, and decided a couple of years ago to be a lot more careful about what I purchased. For what it's worth, this is the list that I refer to for cruelty free cosmetics. Right now at least, Urban Decay (I believe they released a statement saying that they will maintain their position on animal testing even after the sale to L'Oreal), Nars, Lorac, Wet N Wild and Stila, among others, are still classified as brands that do not test on animals. It could stand to be updated though--there are so many new brands in the market that aren't on the list. Apart from that, I'm committed to using things up and buying only the necessities--no "hauls" allowed whatsoever.
There are also a number of organic skincare and makeup boutiques that ostensibly sell vegan/cruelty free products, like Spirit Beauty Lounge and Skin Botanica that you could try. Best of luck to you!
posted by peripathetic at 11:34 PM on December 12, 2012
Barry M cosmetics are mostly British-made and claim to be animal-friendly.
posted by misteraitch at 1:27 AM on December 13, 2012 [1 favorite]
posted by misteraitch at 1:27 AM on December 13, 2012 [1 favorite]
How about Soap and Glory? UK brand, no animal testing, and I really like their shower products and moisturizers.
posted by olinerd at 1:59 AM on December 13, 2012
posted by olinerd at 1:59 AM on December 13, 2012
Response by poster: Hello, thanks for responses so far!
It's fairly easy to find cruelty-free toiletries in the UK - there's Soap and Glory, Original Source, Lush (though I'm rarely inclined to pay £15 for shower gel to be honest). Major make-up brands were what I was interested in. I have a lot of stuff to use up - I bought another tube of UDPP literally the day before the L'Oreal takeover was announced - but there will come a point where I need to replace what I've used up.
I know several online places that are supposed to be great - I keep meaning to order from Fyrrinae at some point - but there are times when it won't be practical or cost-effective to order from mainly-US online sellers. (Customs fees to the UK are EXPENSIVE).
posted by mippy at 4:29 AM on December 13, 2012
It's fairly easy to find cruelty-free toiletries in the UK - there's Soap and Glory, Original Source, Lush (though I'm rarely inclined to pay £15 for shower gel to be honest). Major make-up brands were what I was interested in. I have a lot of stuff to use up - I bought another tube of UDPP literally the day before the L'Oreal takeover was announced - but there will come a point where I need to replace what I've used up.
I know several online places that are supposed to be great - I keep meaning to order from Fyrrinae at some point - but there are times when it won't be practical or cost-effective to order from mainly-US online sellers. (Customs fees to the UK are EXPENSIVE).
posted by mippy at 4:29 AM on December 13, 2012
You might find some good information on the forums at Makeupalley.com or the "makeup discussion" forum on bpal.org - Elizabeth Barrial, the owner of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab, is staunchly anti-animal testing, (and none of the BPAL perfumes use animal ingredients) and many of the BPAL fans seek out cosmetics not tested on animals.
posted by Rosie M. Banks at 6:18 AM on December 13, 2012
posted by Rosie M. Banks at 6:18 AM on December 13, 2012
I can endorse Fyrinnae eyeshadow - both loose and the new pressed ones - as fantastic, and I believe their international shipping is fairly reasonable.
posted by insectosaurus at 9:13 AM on December 13, 2012
posted by insectosaurus at 9:13 AM on December 13, 2012
You can search for products and brands on Leaping Bunny to see if the company is cruelty free and what their relationships are to other companies who may or may not be cruelty free. For example, the Urban Decay entry lists them as cruelty free but it states the fact that you cite -- "In 2012 Urban Decay was bought by L'Oréal. L'Oréal is not approved under the Humane Cosmetics Standard."
I don't know if there are any main street type cosmetic companies that are still cruelty free -- I searched for some US ones, and none of them were listed on Leaping Bunny.
posted by bluefly at 10:27 AM on December 13, 2012
I don't know if there are any main street type cosmetic companies that are still cruelty free -- I searched for some US ones, and none of them were listed on Leaping Bunny.
posted by bluefly at 10:27 AM on December 13, 2012
This is a late response but you should also check out Etsy for indy makeup in the UK. Personally I like Tarte, 100% Pure, Juice Beauty, W3ll People, OCC, and Meow Cosmetics, which I'm fairly certain are all cruelty free, but I don't know how much shipping is to the UK.
But ultimately, if this is something you care about (as you should!) you're probably going to have to resign yourself to paying more. That's just the reality of the situation.
posted by désoeuvrée at 2:55 PM on December 19, 2012
But ultimately, if this is something you care about (as you should!) you're probably going to have to resign yourself to paying more. That's just the reality of the situation.
posted by désoeuvrée at 2:55 PM on December 19, 2012
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by mippy at 4:28 PM on December 12, 2012