car issues
August 22, 2005 10:00 AM Subscribe
CarRepairFilter: I have two problems with my 1992 Honda Accord, with about 175k miles. Runs great, but two minor issues: power windows and an idling issue.
1) The power windows - using the driver's control panel, the driver's side works fine, but the passenger's side window only goes down - it doesn't go up. This would be less weird if the passenger side control didnt work both up and down --- so basically, the passanger side window works fine except for that it wont go up with the driver side control, only the passanger side. this started only about a week ago.
2) When i'm idling at a stoplight, sometimes the car will rev up - this happen if im in neutral or first or anything - it will rev up to 1k rpms, then settle back down, and then rev up again. sometimes giving it a little gas makes the problem stop, and it only happens sometimes.
any thoughts?
1) The power windows - using the driver's control panel, the driver's side works fine, but the passenger's side window only goes down - it doesn't go up. This would be less weird if the passenger side control didnt work both up and down --- so basically, the passanger side window works fine except for that it wont go up with the driver side control, only the passanger side. this started only about a week ago.
2) When i'm idling at a stoplight, sometimes the car will rev up - this happen if im in neutral or first or anything - it will rev up to 1k rpms, then settle back down, and then rev up again. sometimes giving it a little gas makes the problem stop, and it only happens sometimes.
any thoughts?
1) sounds like the switch on the drivers side is failing on one pole. You may be able to graft in a replacement -- probably want a DPDT momentary toggle switch (if you don't care how it looks) or a Genuine Honda Replacement (or similar) from a dealer or one of the online stores.
2) may be oxygen sensor (a common symptom when they get old is that they give false data to the engine computer, which then adjusts the mixture which causes idling weirdness).
posted by 5MeoCMP at 10:11 AM on August 22, 2005
2) may be oxygen sensor (a common symptom when they get old is that they give false data to the engine computer, which then adjusts the mixture which causes idling weirdness).
posted by 5MeoCMP at 10:11 AM on August 22, 2005
Junkyards can be a good source of power window parts, but you may need to buy the whole mechanism just to get what you need. That may still be cheaper than new parts. And don't forget to get a bunch of door panel clips before you start taking things apart.
posted by TedW at 10:17 AM on August 22, 2005
posted by TedW at 10:17 AM on August 22, 2005
This might be a long shot, but is the check engine light on when the idling thing is happening? I had a similar idling problem on my '90 Accord, but only when that light was on. Something about it caused the car to idle weirdly. [Incidentally, the light was on because the speedometer only worked half the time.]
posted by jetskiaccidents at 11:58 AM on August 22, 2005
posted by jetskiaccidents at 11:58 AM on August 22, 2005
1. The driver's side switch is not making proper contact, probably easy to replace.
2. Is the air conditioner on? Usually putting a mechanical load on the engine at idle will make it rev higher to compensate. Followup to geoff.'s comment, Redline's fuel system cleaner is the best, if you can find it. The other brands are not so helpful. Finally, as jetski asked, do you have a check engine light on? If so, you can read out the trouble code and find out exactly what's wrong.
It never hurts to replace the common tune-up parts: air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. The oxygen sensor is a little pricier and usually cars will light up the check engine light if the O2 sensor is bad.
posted by knave at 12:06 PM on August 22, 2005
2. Is the air conditioner on? Usually putting a mechanical load on the engine at idle will make it rev higher to compensate. Followup to geoff.'s comment, Redline's fuel system cleaner is the best, if you can find it. The other brands are not so helpful. Finally, as jetski asked, do you have a check engine light on? If so, you can read out the trouble code and find out exactly what's wrong.
It never hurts to replace the common tune-up parts: air filter, fuel filter, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor. The oxygen sensor is a little pricier and usually cars will light up the check engine light if the O2 sensor is bad.
posted by knave at 12:06 PM on August 22, 2005
Is the AC on when it revs up? That could be the computer compensating for the AC compressor engaging.
If the foot pedal does connect to the injector assemble with a cable (some don't, i.e. VW TDI's uses a resistor pot; not unlike a volume control knob that controls the engine speed), the idle may simply need to be turned up a little to compensate for the cable stretching.
The carb cleaner can't hurt either. Gumout and STP are ok brands, and you do not need to buy the expensive fancy stuff, just a can or two of the $2 a can basic variety. After 175k replacing the filters would probably be as proper as changing oil every 5-7k.
Where do you live; humidity can be a factor with switches. Fine dust or cigarette particles can ruin switches too, and they do wear out over time. Try a can of compressed air, not unlike cleaning out a keyboard; which your window switch is kinda similar to.
Finally, with 175k on the engine; replacing your timing belt now might be better than needing a new cylinder head when it breaks and all those little valves do a dance with your pistons...
posted by buzzman at 12:09 PM on August 22, 2005
If the foot pedal does connect to the injector assemble with a cable (some don't, i.e. VW TDI's uses a resistor pot; not unlike a volume control knob that controls the engine speed), the idle may simply need to be turned up a little to compensate for the cable stretching.
The carb cleaner can't hurt either. Gumout and STP are ok brands, and you do not need to buy the expensive fancy stuff, just a can or two of the $2 a can basic variety. After 175k replacing the filters would probably be as proper as changing oil every 5-7k.
Where do you live; humidity can be a factor with switches. Fine dust or cigarette particles can ruin switches too, and they do wear out over time. Try a can of compressed air, not unlike cleaning out a keyboard; which your window switch is kinda similar to.
Finally, with 175k on the engine; replacing your timing belt now might be better than needing a new cylinder head when it breaks and all those little valves do a dance with your pistons...
posted by buzzman at 12:09 PM on August 22, 2005
Just occurred to me, #2 could be a throttle position sensor or AFM/MAF (air flow meter or mass air flow sensor), or the coolant temperature sensor. These devices give input to the ECU (computer) to tell the car how much fuel to inject, among other things. If they're reporting the wrong info, the car could behave funny.
In particular, the coolant temperature sensor is used to make the car idle higher when the engine is cold, if it's reporting that the coolant is cold, then you'd see a high idle. Things to consider...
posted by knave at 12:10 PM on August 22, 2005
In particular, the coolant temperature sensor is used to make the car idle higher when the engine is cold, if it's reporting that the coolant is cold, then you'd see a high idle. Things to consider...
posted by knave at 12:10 PM on August 22, 2005
Response by poster: good thought on the fuel additive. i'll check that out. i checked the filters a few months ago but i should again.
as for the A/C - it doesnt work. ideally, i should have that fixed but the car is ancient and i'm a student on my own for school. i dont really use it that much (live on campus), but im a undergrad who returned to school, and i need it to move myself places (no parents or others to do it for me). so i dont think thats it.
posted by jare2003 at 1:16 PM on August 22, 2005
as for the A/C - it doesnt work. ideally, i should have that fixed but the car is ancient and i'm a student on my own for school. i dont really use it that much (live on campus), but im a undergrad who returned to school, and i need it to move myself places (no parents or others to do it for me). so i dont think thats it.
posted by jare2003 at 1:16 PM on August 22, 2005
I got a new power window motor and switch at a U-Pull it place for $7.00 total. It's my understanding that Accords have a lot of issues with the windows. I also have a weird idle issue but it's due to a malfunctioning sensor and since my car has 450,000, yes 450,000, miles on it, I'm ignoring it.
posted by yodelingisfun at 1:16 PM on August 22, 2005
posted by yodelingisfun at 1:16 PM on August 22, 2005
http://www.car-part.com
I just looked here for a driver's side power window/lock button module for a Civic. They're about $50 used. Snap out the old one with a flathead screwdriver, unplug it, plug in the new one, snap it back in. Done, and should fix #1.
Not sure about the idling thing. If there's no CEL, and you have a Honda, there probably isn't a problem. My old Civic hatch did this every now and then, and I was told by a friend that it was the car taking a chance to charge the battery a little more, as though the battery might be on its last legs. If you've had yours for awhile, keep that in mind. Or my friend could have no idea what he's talking about.
http://www.honda-tech.com if you don't get a good answer to that one here.
posted by autojack at 3:49 PM on August 22, 2005
I just looked here for a driver's side power window/lock button module for a Civic. They're about $50 used. Snap out the old one with a flathead screwdriver, unplug it, plug in the new one, snap it back in. Done, and should fix #1.
Not sure about the idling thing. If there's no CEL, and you have a Honda, there probably isn't a problem. My old Civic hatch did this every now and then, and I was told by a friend that it was the car taking a chance to charge the battery a little more, as though the battery might be on its last legs. If you've had yours for awhile, keep that in mind. Or my friend could have no idea what he's talking about.
http://www.honda-tech.com if you don't get a good answer to that one here.
posted by autojack at 3:49 PM on August 22, 2005
I remember my civic doing that as well when it was notably younger than yours. I don't buy the battery charging explanation but I don't have an alternate one. You could always call Click and Clack and ask.
posted by phearlez at 4:19 PM on August 22, 2005
posted by phearlez at 4:19 PM on August 22, 2005
1 is definitely the switch. If the O2 sensor and fuel cleaner don't fix the idle, I'd suspect the Idle Stabilizer Valve* way before the MAF or throttle switch or other esoteric engine management part.
*I am not sure that your Japanese car uses an ISV; if your car were German, I'd bet even money that your ISV needs cleaning/replacement.
posted by Kwantsar at 9:18 PM on August 22, 2005
*I am not sure that your Japanese car uses an ISV; if your car were German, I'd bet even money that your ISV needs cleaning/replacement.
posted by Kwantsar at 9:18 PM on August 22, 2005
#1 is easy: bad contact. If you're feeling saucy, open up the control and swap the contacts with some alcohol. Visually inspect it: if there's clearly metal missing, replace the switch.
#2: many possibilities.
First guess would be a coolant issue. Make sure your cooling system is properly flushed, and all air pockets are removed. Then check for any cracks/leaks around the vacuum lines.
Second guess is a fuel system issue. Have your injectors and fuel pump checked out; as a last resort, check the fuel lines for possible blockage. Cleaning your injectors is an easy do-it-yourself job that you might try just for peace of mind (fuel additives are virtually worthless... go to town with some carb cleaner instead).
posted by Civil_Disobedient at 9:33 PM on August 22, 2005
#2: many possibilities.
First guess would be a coolant issue. Make sure your cooling system is properly flushed, and all air pockets are removed. Then check for any cracks/leaks around the vacuum lines.
Second guess is a fuel system issue. Have your injectors and fuel pump checked out; as a last resort, check the fuel lines for possible blockage. Cleaning your injectors is an easy do-it-yourself job that you might try just for peace of mind (fuel additives are virtually worthless... go to town with some carb cleaner instead).
posted by Civil_Disobedient at 9:33 PM on August 22, 2005
typo: SWAB the contacts with some alcohol, then if they still don't work, SWAP the switch with a working one.
posted by Civil_Disobedient at 9:35 PM on August 22, 2005
posted by Civil_Disobedient at 9:35 PM on August 22, 2005
This thread is closed to new comments.
2) This could be a dirty fuel line or fuel injectors. Before taking it in get some of that fuel additive that you put in before filling up each tank. Do this for 2 or 3 fill ups and see if the problem goes away.
posted by geoff. at 10:10 AM on August 22, 2005