Business clothes for a skinny but muscular guy in NYC that don't make me look like a hipster?
June 14, 2011 6:42 PM Subscribe
Business clothes for a skinny but muscular guy in NYC that don't make me look like a hipster?
I'm 5' 10", very athletic build, weigh about 143 pounds (fluctuating between 140 and 145) and my waist is about a 29 or 30 depending on the store.
Right now, I have a collection of custom tailored shirts and suits, and that is pretty much all I wear. But with the shirts costing $170 each and the suits costing around $1,500 each, I think that I can do better with stuff that is off the rack (for shirts & pants).
I hate the skinny leg pants that pretty leave very little room around the ankle. I like the bottom of the pant to pretty much rest on the shoe, almost like a boot cut. The shirts need to look classy both with and without a normal tie (ie, no skinny ties).
With that said, what are some good places that are skinny friendly in NYC? A wild place where the shirts don't billow off your body like a boat sail, and the pants make your ass look good without being so tight people can tell your religion?
This is a good example of the pant fit I'm going for. I'll probably check these out tomorrow, but I would like to expand beyond Banana Republic if possible.
(And no, gaining weight is not an option, I've tried and failed too many times.)
I'm 5' 10", very athletic build, weigh about 143 pounds (fluctuating between 140 and 145) and my waist is about a 29 or 30 depending on the store.
Right now, I have a collection of custom tailored shirts and suits, and that is pretty much all I wear. But with the shirts costing $170 each and the suits costing around $1,500 each, I think that I can do better with stuff that is off the rack (for shirts & pants).
I hate the skinny leg pants that pretty leave very little room around the ankle. I like the bottom of the pant to pretty much rest on the shoe, almost like a boot cut. The shirts need to look classy both with and without a normal tie (ie, no skinny ties).
With that said, what are some good places that are skinny friendly in NYC? A wild place where the shirts don't billow off your body like a boat sail, and the pants make your ass look good without being so tight people can tell your religion?
This is a good example of the pant fit I'm going for. I'll probably check these out tomorrow, but I would like to expand beyond Banana Republic if possible.
(And no, gaining weight is not an option, I've tried and failed too many times.)
Club Monaco fits this bill exactly; Uniqlo; and yes Banana Republic (all of these are on or just off of broadway in soho). There are also plenty of places in nolita, mens shops with clothing for real-shaped men.
posted by jtajta at 6:50 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by jtajta at 6:50 PM on June 14, 2011
Response by poster: I've always thought Uniqlo was a bit on the cheap side. But hey, it's right next to Bloomingdales so I'll pop in. Thank you.
posted by darkgroove at 6:51 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by darkgroove at 6:51 PM on June 14, 2011
Express, Uniqlo is probably going to be to thin for your taste -- I wear all my pants with Williamsburg diameters and Uniqlo is perfect for me.
posted by griphus at 6:51 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by griphus at 6:51 PM on June 14, 2011
Brooks Brothers has slim fit stuff that is definitely not hipster.
posted by blargerz at 6:52 PM on June 14, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by blargerz at 6:52 PM on June 14, 2011 [1 favorite]
Oh, hrm, if you're concerned about cheap-ness, forget about Express.
posted by griphus at 6:52 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by griphus at 6:52 PM on June 14, 2011
Response by poster: @ jtajta. Am I a 'real-shaped man'? Haha. I'm leaning towards no since I ask for slim fit shirts and most places look at me like I have three heads. But maybe I should check around Nolita a little more.
And in regard to cheapness, I don't want you to think I'm looking to spend more. But in terms of fabrics and quality of build, I don't think Express or J Crew, etc has the kind of work attire I've been looking for.
posted by darkgroove at 6:54 PM on June 14, 2011
And in regard to cheapness, I don't want you to think I'm looking to spend more. But in terms of fabrics and quality of build, I don't think Express or J Crew, etc has the kind of work attire I've been looking for.
posted by darkgroove at 6:54 PM on June 14, 2011
Now that I think of it, Uniqlo actually has a "J+" line of higher-quality products than their standard line, so you may want to check out their shirts, specifically. I'm a bit smaller than you are, and the slim fit shirts are the perfect fit. Unfortunately, I have to stick to the regular line because they also cost about as much as Banana Republic shirts.
posted by griphus at 6:57 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by griphus at 6:57 PM on June 14, 2011
Brooks Brothers, Alton Lane, Clifford Charles, Thomas Pink--all of these make high quality suits, that are not off the rack, and which are less than $1,500 per suit and $170 per shirt. So maybe look at those places.
But if you want off the rack, Banana Repulic and Uniqlo are good places to start.
posted by dfriedman at 6:58 PM on June 14, 2011
But if you want off the rack, Banana Repulic and Uniqlo are good places to start.
posted by dfriedman at 6:58 PM on June 14, 2011
Response by poster: Pink has some awesome shirts. I haven't been in there in a while though. I'll need to check them out!
And by off the rack I really mean "minimal tailoring". Sorry, I should have clarified that.
posted by darkgroove at 7:06 PM on June 14, 2011
And by off the rack I really mean "minimal tailoring". Sorry, I should have clarified that.
posted by darkgroove at 7:06 PM on June 14, 2011
Brooks Brothers has extra-slim-fit shirts now that are nice for the price. Their "Fitzgerald Fit" suits might work for you as well.
posted by nicwolff at 7:12 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by nicwolff at 7:12 PM on June 14, 2011
If you have shirts that fit well--which, I'm guessing, describes your $170 tailored shirts--I'd try the online tailor route before going near over the counter shirts. There is a lot of uncertainty with using online tailors if you give them body measurements, but they're excellent at replicating existing shirts. I recently started using modern tailor to recreate a custom shirt and have been very happy with both the price and the quality (just avoid the too cheap fabrics). Much much better fitting than anything I've seen off the rack.
posted by eisenkr at 7:31 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by eisenkr at 7:31 PM on June 14, 2011
Seconding the online tailor route. Mine is excellent with both shirts and suits and you get exactly the fit you want, with double the quality for half the price. Four shirts generally cost <$200 and suits are somewhere around $400-600 depending on options.
posted by kcm at 8:03 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by kcm at 8:03 PM on June 14, 2011
I've used Indochino.com to fit my misshapen body, and found great success for tailored suits and shirts.
posted by beepbeepboopboop at 8:03 PM on June 14, 2011
posted by beepbeepboopboop at 8:03 PM on June 14, 2011
I love uniqlo, but there clothing is definitely on the skinnier side. All their pants are 34" long, which might be just right for you -- it it is, you are all set and can find a million things. If not, they alter things for free on the spot (usually the wait is a few hours to a day max). However, if you have any sort of quads -- like even one set of squats beyond normal leg size -- their stuff can be a bit of a squeeze through the upper legs.
I find banana stuff to be a nightmare to take care of -- wrinkling all the time -- but definitely closer to that look. I also find that is hard to find stuff at Brooks that doesn't do the boat sail thing that you are talking about. H&M will have the cuts you are looking for, and cheap, but there stuff can fall apart pretty easily. But you will probably go through about 3 or 4 H&M shirts before you hit the $170 you were paying before.
Have you tried J.Crew? Check out their "Liquor Store" in Tribeca -- worth a visit if you are in the area. It is in an old liquor store and you would probably never know it is J.Crew on first pass.
posted by This_Will_Be_Good at 10:20 PM on June 14, 2011
I find banana stuff to be a nightmare to take care of -- wrinkling all the time -- but definitely closer to that look. I also find that is hard to find stuff at Brooks that doesn't do the boat sail thing that you are talking about. H&M will have the cuts you are looking for, and cheap, but there stuff can fall apart pretty easily. But you will probably go through about 3 or 4 H&M shirts before you hit the $170 you were paying before.
Have you tried J.Crew? Check out their "Liquor Store" in Tribeca -- worth a visit if you are in the area. It is in an old liquor store and you would probably never know it is J.Crew on first pass.
posted by This_Will_Be_Good at 10:20 PM on June 14, 2011
Have you visited Nordstrom Rack? My husband finds most shirts too billowy and he found some slim-cut shirts there that he loves, for a great price. He's also found pants at The Gap (often they are running promos so you can get two pairs of "khakis" for a very reasonable price, even though they aren't always khaki, they come in several colors) but that might be too casual for you.
posted by pinky at 5:30 AM on June 15, 2011
posted by pinky at 5:30 AM on June 15, 2011
Macy's and Nordstrom's sale rack. Shirts and pants there are usually $40-60, and a very good tailor still shouldn't be more than $15. You won't get the same variety, but you'll get the same name brand and quality. Check back every few months.
I'm built roughly like you and have yet to find anything off the rack that works. Even most "slim" fitting shirts are not really made for slim guys. On the other hand, a big problem I have is that many slim shirts -- the ones that are actually slim -- are too short (I'm 6'), so you may have better luck.
I hope you'll come back and update us if you find something that works!
posted by coolguymichael at 12:02 PM on June 15, 2011
I'm built roughly like you and have yet to find anything off the rack that works. Even most "slim" fitting shirts are not really made for slim guys. On the other hand, a big problem I have is that many slim shirts -- the ones that are actually slim -- are too short (I'm 6'), so you may have better luck.
I hope you'll come back and update us if you find something that works!
posted by coolguymichael at 12:02 PM on June 15, 2011
Have to disagree with Brooks Brothers - even their slim fit stuff is a relatively full cut compared to, for example, J. Crew.
I know your pain, friend. I'm about 5'11" and weighed about 150-160 for years. I recommend Reiss, an English clothier that has slim cut stuff that doesn't strike me as hipster. Try the store on Bleecker and Christopher St.
For denim, Earnest Sewn is excellent, particularly if you can wait until a sale.
posted by ben242 at 1:59 PM on June 15, 2011
I know your pain, friend. I'm about 5'11" and weighed about 150-160 for years. I recommend Reiss, an English clothier that has slim cut stuff that doesn't strike me as hipster. Try the store on Bleecker and Christopher St.
For denim, Earnest Sewn is excellent, particularly if you can wait until a sale.
posted by ben242 at 1:59 PM on June 15, 2011
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posted by dfriedman at 6:46 PM on June 14, 2011