Thin set mortar on patterned wall board
March 16, 2010 11:16 AM Subscribe
Need advice on using thin set mortar on patterned wall board. The wall board in question has a patterned washable surface that is used where you do not want to use paint or wallpaper finish. This surface may be too slick for thin set to adhere. If this is true, is there a way around the adhesion problem? Removing the old wall board is not an option as it is both stapled and glued in place. This would require installing false studding as the faces of the old studs would be too irregular to nail green board to. My local masonry supply does not want to get involved in this.
The wall board in question has a patterned washable surface that is used where you do not want to use paint or wallpaper finish.
For some reason I can't parse this. What is this wallboard made of?
I know you said removing it is NOT an option, but staples and glue would not stop me from removing it. We removed a whole bunch of old wood paneling that was glued and nailed to the walls in my house. It was a lot of work, but once the walls were retextured it was well worth the effort.
To add to zombiedance's advice, you can get 1/4" hardibacker, but I agree that the "wall board" you are mentioning may not be solid enough.
posted by Big_B at 12:34 PM on March 16, 2010
For some reason I can't parse this. What is this wallboard made of?
I know you said removing it is NOT an option, but staples and glue would not stop me from removing it. We removed a whole bunch of old wood paneling that was glued and nailed to the walls in my house. It was a lot of work, but once the walls were retextured it was well worth the effort.
To add to zombiedance's advice, you can get 1/4" hardibacker, but I agree that the "wall board" you are mentioning may not be solid enough.
posted by Big_B at 12:34 PM on March 16, 2010
I'm not completely sure I understand your situation, but do you think SimpleMat might be helpful?
posted by workerant at 1:09 PM on March 16, 2010
posted by workerant at 1:09 PM on March 16, 2010
Response by poster: Big_B. This is regular wallboard that has a decorative covering. The idea is to install it with identically decorated batten strips so you do not have to tape the joints and paint. Used in low cost manufactured housing.
posted by Raybun at 1:13 PM on March 16, 2010
posted by Raybun at 1:13 PM on March 16, 2010
The glossy wallboard has to go. Not only do you face adhesion problems, but the stuff you're got is thin, relatively flexible and probably has some air gaps behind it which will lead to cracked tiles and/or grout should anyone lean on the wrong spot.
Yes, the drywall will go with it unless the underlying wall surface is plaster. Old, uneven studs will not make it impossible to install a new substrate -- they will just make it a bit more challenging. You can add shims, or you can bed the new substrate (be it greenboard or concrete board) in construction adhesive, or both.
posted by jon1270 at 2:18 PM on March 16, 2010
Yes, the drywall will go with it unless the underlying wall surface is plaster. Old, uneven studs will not make it impossible to install a new substrate -- they will just make it a bit more challenging. You can add shims, or you can bed the new substrate (be it greenboard or concrete board) in construction adhesive, or both.
posted by jon1270 at 2:18 PM on March 16, 2010
This is regular wallboard that has a decorative covering. The idea is to install it with identically decorated batten strips so you do not have to tape the joints and paint. Used in low cost manufactured housing.
Ah I see. I've never heard of that or seen it.
I'm not sure if this is going to help, but we did a small bathroom remodel and ripped out a shower enclosure and removed some of the surrounding wallboard due to water damage. If I had to do it again I would completely remove all of the wallboard from the whole bathroom because it was very hard (and somewhat impossible) to hide all the new seams from new to old due to slightly carying thicknesses. Just something to keep in mind if you end up removing only pieces and have joints to deal with later.
posted by Big_B at 1:01 PM on March 17, 2010
Ah I see. I've never heard of that or seen it.
I'm not sure if this is going to help, but we did a small bathroom remodel and ripped out a shower enclosure and removed some of the surrounding wallboard due to water damage. If I had to do it again I would completely remove all of the wallboard from the whole bathroom because it was very hard (and somewhat impossible) to hide all the new seams from new to old due to slightly carying thicknesses. Just something to keep in mind if you end up removing only pieces and have joints to deal with later.
posted by Big_B at 1:01 PM on March 17, 2010
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If the wallboard is the typical stuff that comes in 4'x8' panels, I'm guessing that not only will it not work well for adhesion, it may be too flexible to be a good substrate for tile.
posted by zombiedance at 11:54 AM on March 16, 2010