It burns! It burns! How do I get it out?
June 22, 2009 5:45 AM Subscribe
Oh no. I've just made a burn mark on the wood countertop in my rented apartment. Is there anything I can do?
I already saw this thread, but was hoping for some alternatives.
I am moving out of this apartment next month. There's no deposit at stake, and the countertop belongs to the woman I am subletting from rather than the landlord (in Germany, renters provide their own kitchen furnishings). She's great, and although she can't withhold money from a non-existent deposit, I don't want to stick her with a damaged countertop.
Is there anything I can do to remove this burn mark? Has anyone tried toothpaste? Would bleach make the problem work? I don't have the know-how or the time to re-sand and re-finish the countertop but want to do my best to to solve or improve the burn mark, which currently looks like a slender half-circle of black on a light wood counter.
I already saw this thread, but was hoping for some alternatives.
I am moving out of this apartment next month. There's no deposit at stake, and the countertop belongs to the woman I am subletting from rather than the landlord (in Germany, renters provide their own kitchen furnishings). She's great, and although she can't withhold money from a non-existent deposit, I don't want to stick her with a damaged countertop.
Is there anything I can do to remove this burn mark? Has anyone tried toothpaste? Would bleach make the problem work? I don't have the know-how or the time to re-sand and re-finish the countertop but want to do my best to to solve or improve the burn mark, which currently looks like a slender half-circle of black on a light wood counter.
When the lodger from hell set fire to her room (long story) she got a guy to come round and sand it back then varnish the floorboards. It looked rather good, after he had finished. He was just a friend of a friend who made a few quid cash in hand - the sanding job took him less than an hour, and he came back to give another coat of varnish a day later, so I'd imagine total time was less than 2hrs. So even though you don't have time yourself, it might be worth asking around to see if anyone you know is after earning some cash in hand euros.
posted by handee at 6:56 AM on June 22, 2009
posted by handee at 6:56 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: I know you said you didn't know how to sand, but really most remedies are going to include some sanding.
It really depends how superficial (or not) the burn is. Can you tell how the wood is finished, like does it appear to oiled or does it have hard plastic-like coat that melted some?
Either way, I might start with some very light sanding. Its really not scary just take your time. Get 800+ grit, I would go with the sand wet kind. Dampen and pretend like you are exfoliating your very delicate face. The wet sand is good because its easy to work with and you can actually work the fine dust back into the grain almost masking the blemish. Its oiled all you have to do is rub on some more oil, once again like applying a moisturizer to your face, easy circular, overlapping motions. Let it set a while, then wipe off any excess.
They do make wood bleach that will pull dark water stains and such, but it will burn your hands up if you get it on you, not to mention its hard to get it exactly where you want it, then you would have a blotchy burn. If you choose this option, I would sand a little to make sure all the finish is lifted from the wood so the bleach can get to it.
If its a burn that went though more than just the top few layers, if you can rub your finger across it and feel an obvious depression, I would call your friend and offer to try and fix it before I got into any heavy sanding.
If it is deep and you are feeling adventurous, grab a tub of wood putty that is tinted to match the wood of the counter. This is not a good option if it is a very open grained wood (unless you want to break out the paint and try your hand at faux bois, you might surprise yourself.) Use a putty knife to fill the depression, if it shrinks when dry, add another layer, sand till flush with the surface. Finish appropriately
I can tell you how to finish if you give us some pics or describe it for us.
posted by stormygrey at 8:15 AM on June 22, 2009
It really depends how superficial (or not) the burn is. Can you tell how the wood is finished, like does it appear to oiled or does it have hard plastic-like coat that melted some?
Either way, I might start with some very light sanding. Its really not scary just take your time. Get 800+ grit, I would go with the sand wet kind. Dampen and pretend like you are exfoliating your very delicate face. The wet sand is good because its easy to work with and you can actually work the fine dust back into the grain almost masking the blemish. Its oiled all you have to do is rub on some more oil, once again like applying a moisturizer to your face, easy circular, overlapping motions. Let it set a while, then wipe off any excess.
They do make wood bleach that will pull dark water stains and such, but it will burn your hands up if you get it on you, not to mention its hard to get it exactly where you want it, then you would have a blotchy burn. If you choose this option, I would sand a little to make sure all the finish is lifted from the wood so the bleach can get to it.
If its a burn that went though more than just the top few layers, if you can rub your finger across it and feel an obvious depression, I would call your friend and offer to try and fix it before I got into any heavy sanding.
If it is deep and you are feeling adventurous, grab a tub of wood putty that is tinted to match the wood of the counter. This is not a good option if it is a very open grained wood (unless you want to break out the paint and try your hand at faux bois, you might surprise yourself.) Use a putty knife to fill the depression, if it shrinks when dry, add another layer, sand till flush with the surface. Finish appropriately
I can tell you how to finish if you give us some pics or describe it for us.
posted by stormygrey at 8:15 AM on June 22, 2009
Response by poster: Stormy grey, thanks! That's really helpful. Here are some more details:
-The countertop does not appear to have a plastic finish.
-The burn mark does not appear to be too deep.
What kind of oil should I look for to treat the mark after I sand it? Is there are standard finishing oil for wood countertops?
Is "800+ grit" a standard term? Does it refer to the abrasiveness of the paper?
Thanks again -- open to any other suggestions as well.
posted by foxy_hedgehog at 8:27 AM on June 22, 2009
-The countertop does not appear to have a plastic finish.
-The burn mark does not appear to be too deep.
What kind of oil should I look for to treat the mark after I sand it? Is there are standard finishing oil for wood countertops?
Is "800+ grit" a standard term? Does it refer to the abrasiveness of the paper?
Thanks again -- open to any other suggestions as well.
posted by foxy_hedgehog at 8:27 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: You are going to need to sand it, if the finish is mineral oil (as it should be for a counter top) then all you need to do is sand it out, 150, 220 400 grit progression, and then re-apply mineral oil to the counter top (you just wipe it on with a rag)
If the finish is varnish it's a bigger job because you'll need to redo the whole counter top in order for it to look good.
Do not try and mask it with bleach/stain/dye/toothpaste. You'll make a huge mess and it will look awful.
posted by zeoslap at 8:27 AM on June 22, 2009
If the finish is varnish it's a bigger job because you'll need to redo the whole counter top in order for it to look good.
Do not try and mask it with bleach/stain/dye/toothpaste. You'll make a huge mess and it will look awful.
posted by zeoslap at 8:27 AM on June 22, 2009
On preview, I think you'll be lucky getting a burn out with 800 grit, you'll just get a nice semi-gloss burn mark. 220 & 400 will be fine (150 if it's a deep burn).
I'd skip the wet sanding because you don't want to push the burnt wood deeper into the pores, dry sand it, and when the burn is gone, wipe on some mineral oil. I also wouldn't use a circular motion, just sand it with the grain.
posted by zeoslap at 8:31 AM on June 22, 2009
I'd skip the wet sanding because you don't want to push the burnt wood deeper into the pores, dry sand it, and when the burn is gone, wipe on some mineral oil. I also wouldn't use a circular motion, just sand it with the grain.
posted by zeoslap at 8:31 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: Yes, its a standard reference, it refers to the abrasiveness, the higher the number, the smoother it is. I would NOT start with the standard 150 or whatever if its superficial, you might just end up with swirly scratches. Think of it as almost like buffing. You could also try some steel wool, a lot of it might be marked 1,000, just make sure to test it on your wood somewere you can't see well because it might leave grey areas.
If it does end up being too deep to use the minimal sanding above, then grab a multi pack of the lower grits as above. This can get tricky because you really don't want to spend forever sanding the entire thing down but you don't want a big demarcation line either. Go slow and work your way out decreasing pressure towards the perimeter.
It really sounds like you can get it out no problem though. If you have some kind of home improvement store you should be able to find sand paper in lower grits and "food grade" finishing oil or just mineral oil (food grade). If the home improvement store doesn't have the high grit sand paper, automotive places usually do, I really don't know about Germany though.
posted by stormygrey at 8:42 AM on June 22, 2009
If it does end up being too deep to use the minimal sanding above, then grab a multi pack of the lower grits as above. This can get tricky because you really don't want to spend forever sanding the entire thing down but you don't want a big demarcation line either. Go slow and work your way out decreasing pressure towards the perimeter.
It really sounds like you can get it out no problem though. If you have some kind of home improvement store you should be able to find sand paper in lower grits and "food grade" finishing oil or just mineral oil (food grade). If the home improvement store doesn't have the high grit sand paper, automotive places usually do, I really don't know about Germany though.
posted by stormygrey at 8:42 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: We obviously have different methods :) I can assure you though, my tortoise like patience has rescued many wood working projects. Either approach will work, just go slow and see what works for your rhythm and body. It will be evident to you quickly how much or little progress you are making, so adjust as necessary. Sand paper is cheap too, so buy a variety.
I am going to have to clarify/retract the circular advice though. With the lower grits, going across the grain CAN leaves scratches that are visible. These scratches are still there when you go with the grain, but they are not noticeable So always make sure to sand out the scratches when going from one grit to another, but when you get to the very high grits, you are taking away minuscule amounts of the wood at a time, so you don't get those kind of scratches.
posted by stormygrey at 8:53 AM on June 22, 2009
I am going to have to clarify/retract the circular advice though. With the lower grits, going across the grain CAN leaves scratches that are visible. These scratches are still there when you go with the grain, but they are not noticeable So always make sure to sand out the scratches when going from one grit to another, but when you get to the very high grits, you are taking away minuscule amounts of the wood at a time, so you don't get those kind of scratches.
posted by stormygrey at 8:53 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: Depending on the color of the wood, Old English makes a product called "Scratch Cover". I would recommend sanding it, as above, then rubbing a little scratch cover over it, which is basically a stain.
I have used this successfully on both burns and scratches on wood.
posted by Grlnxtdr at 10:16 AM on June 22, 2009
I have used this successfully on both burns and scratches on wood.
posted by Grlnxtdr at 10:16 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: Unless you know exactly what you're doing, I wouldn't recommend that you try to fix it on your own. I definitely wouldn't recommend sanding or applying oils/finishes if you don't have a good idea of what it's currently finished with. In my experience, amateur refinishing usually turns out pretty bad.
Talk to your landlord and offer to pay for the damage - she might say "No problem", or (even better) "I hated that counter anyway". If you don't want to talk to her yet, see if you can find someone who might know how to fix it and have them give you an estimate, and then talk to her before you hire them. If you want to DIY, talk to her and ask her if it's okay.
posted by sluggo at 11:13 AM on June 22, 2009
Talk to your landlord and offer to pay for the damage - she might say "No problem", or (even better) "I hated that counter anyway". If you don't want to talk to her yet, see if you can find someone who might know how to fix it and have them give you an estimate, and then talk to her before you hire them. If you want to DIY, talk to her and ask her if it's okay.
posted by sluggo at 11:13 AM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: Unless you know exactly what you're doing, I wouldn't recommend that you try to fix it on your own. I definitely wouldn't recommend sanding or applying oils/finishes if you don't have a good idea of what it's currently finished with. In my experience, amateur refinishing usually turns out pretty bad.
This.
You don't want to make fixing your landlord's countertop into your inaugural wood finishing project.
There are far more ways for a novice to inadvertently make this a whole lot worse than there are ways for a novice to make this better.
Leave it and talk to her about it.
posted by chazlarson at 12:43 PM on June 22, 2009
This.
You don't want to make fixing your landlord's countertop into your inaugural wood finishing project.
There are far more ways for a novice to inadvertently make this a whole lot worse than there are ways for a novice to make this better.
Leave it and talk to her about it.
posted by chazlarson at 12:43 PM on June 22, 2009
Response by poster: Thanks everyone. All of this is helpful. I just emailed the woman I rent from about it and am awaiting her reply.
posted by foxy_hedgehog at 1:21 PM on June 22, 2009
posted by foxy_hedgehog at 1:21 PM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: I think telling her is the proper thing to do but sanding the burn out isn't hard. You will most likely need to do an even sanding over the whole surface to even out the wood color. I would actually start out with that and, when you get to the burn, sand a little bit more. If it ends up looking like you will pit the surface to get all of the burn out, stop and call it off. In my experience, butcher block naturally gets cuts and burns on it over time. If you need to oil it, try mineral oil or Behlan's salad bowl oil. Do not stain it or put anything on the countertop that you wouldn't put on a cutting board because a lot of people prep food right on it.
Just go slow and you will be able to stop yourself before you make any permanent bad decisions. Just my experience, not an expert opinion.
posted by Foam Pants at 4:51 PM on June 22, 2009
Just go slow and you will be able to stop yourself before you make any permanent bad decisions. Just my experience, not an expert opinion.
posted by Foam Pants at 4:51 PM on June 22, 2009
I rescued my childhood dresser from storage, it had cigarette burns all over the top.* I used #0000 steel wool and some solvent (in this case, lacquer thinner, since it was finished with lacquer) and scrubbed. It took the discoloration right off without otherwise affecting the wood. The advantages to the really fine steel wool are that it will get into curves, such as an indent created by the burn, and it won't leave scratches.
I'm not too sure how these countertops are finished, but if they are oiled, you could use that same oil as a solvent. I've successfully cleaned wood many times with a mixture of 2 parts paint thinner and 1 part linseed oil, and the aformentioned steel wool. However, I'm not sure if this is appropriate for kitchen counters.
*my sister did it, i swear
posted by zinfandel at 8:11 PM on June 22, 2009
I'm not too sure how these countertops are finished, but if they are oiled, you could use that same oil as a solvent. I've successfully cleaned wood many times with a mixture of 2 parts paint thinner and 1 part linseed oil, and the aformentioned steel wool. However, I'm not sure if this is appropriate for kitchen counters.
*my sister did it, i swear
posted by zinfandel at 8:11 PM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: No to the linseed oil. I love the finish it gives mixed with thinner, but it's flamable (watch wonder hubbie set rags on fire in blazing sun while doing patio set!), and not food grade.
posted by x46 at 10:12 PM on June 22, 2009
posted by x46 at 10:12 PM on June 22, 2009
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by indienial at 6:05 AM on June 22, 2009