Recall: Stubborn dog, Novice owner
September 2, 2024 7:08 PM
How on earth do I get my dog to come when called?
I know this question is all over the internet, but I’m hoping for some bespoke advice. I am a first time dog owner. I am not successful at training my dog, despite two obedience classes, practicing, and trying my damndest to stay consistent. I have read dog training books and googled. My dog is almost three and he refuses to come when called. If I try to go into the yard he runs away from me and I have read many times over not to chase. High value treats don’t work (deli meat, hot dogs, I’ve waved all kinds of things at him), me running away doesn’t work, a high pitched voice does nothing, me falling to the ground doesn’t get him to come over, etc etc.. I’ve had others in my life be like “holy crap you got a really tough dog for your first dog lol” after watching me work with him but I also know I’m not doing great because despite him knowing his toys by name, he won’t do anything he doesn’t wanna do, and that’s on me.
Sometimes, when totally exasperated, I ask him “do you want breakfast/dinner?” Except, if he’s recently had those meals or it’s the middle of the day he’s like “yeah right lady” and just stands there (if it is inching towards that time he comes bounding).
The closest we’ve got is this: To get him inside before I go to work each morning, I put a tiny bit of kibble in his dish and rattle it and say once and loudly COME! And when he does (this is about a 70% success rate) I praise intensely and give him the kibble. He never, in almost three years of this, will come without the food rattle (as in, I can’t do this anywhere but home), and again, this only has an 70% success rate.
He gets a one hour run/walk every single day plus we play search games inside, so he’s not hurting for outside stimulation or exercise. I love this dog more than anything, but I REALLY need him to recall reliably, and I’m terrified there will be a safety situation where I am unable to get him to come. He is so, so, so stubborn in all kinds of other ways, but getting him to come is my main concern. Please help a novice dog owner out!
I know this question is all over the internet, but I’m hoping for some bespoke advice. I am a first time dog owner. I am not successful at training my dog, despite two obedience classes, practicing, and trying my damndest to stay consistent. I have read dog training books and googled. My dog is almost three and he refuses to come when called. If I try to go into the yard he runs away from me and I have read many times over not to chase. High value treats don’t work (deli meat, hot dogs, I’ve waved all kinds of things at him), me running away doesn’t work, a high pitched voice does nothing, me falling to the ground doesn’t get him to come over, etc etc.. I’ve had others in my life be like “holy crap you got a really tough dog for your first dog lol” after watching me work with him but I also know I’m not doing great because despite him knowing his toys by name, he won’t do anything he doesn’t wanna do, and that’s on me.
Sometimes, when totally exasperated, I ask him “do you want breakfast/dinner?” Except, if he’s recently had those meals or it’s the middle of the day he’s like “yeah right lady” and just stands there (if it is inching towards that time he comes bounding).
The closest we’ve got is this: To get him inside before I go to work each morning, I put a tiny bit of kibble in his dish and rattle it and say once and loudly COME! And when he does (this is about a 70% success rate) I praise intensely and give him the kibble. He never, in almost three years of this, will come without the food rattle (as in, I can’t do this anywhere but home), and again, this only has an 70% success rate.
He gets a one hour run/walk every single day plus we play search games inside, so he’s not hurting for outside stimulation or exercise. I love this dog more than anything, but I REALLY need him to recall reliably, and I’m terrified there will be a safety situation where I am unable to get him to come. He is so, so, so stubborn in all kinds of other ways, but getting him to come is my main concern. Please help a novice dog owner out!
I drop my voice a couple of octaves lower and flatter than usual so I sound serious but not actually mad (“ANNIE COME HERE RIGHT NOW RIGHT NOW RIGHT NOW”). It works hilariously well with my dog, who trots on over probably out of sheer confusion. And she always gets praise and a treat afterward.
posted by mochapickle at 8:07 PM on September 2
posted by mochapickle at 8:07 PM on September 2
Long, long leash purpose made for it (woven cotten, about 30 feet long), choke chain; treats.
Play out leash, call, wait, correct, reward.
Repeat.
Very repetitive and boring, over and over.
posted by the Real Dan at 8:08 PM on September 2
Play out leash, call, wait, correct, reward.
Repeat.
Very repetitive and boring, over and over.
posted by the Real Dan at 8:08 PM on September 2
Part of the solution probably needs to be coming up with a new cue word that you never use unless you are 100% sure you can enforce it. He's already learned that "come" is not worth responding to and can be ignored. So pick something else, like "here," and work on convincing him that this one is worth responding to. (And also that he can't ignore it because you will initially use it only when he is on leash so he can't run away.)
Practice the recall a lot with him on leash and give really good rewards. Whenever you are going to give him something he wants or let him do something he wants, call him to you first - as long as he's on a leash or a long line, so you can make sure he actually does come to you. Never use the recall cue when you're going to do something he doesn't want, like putting him back in the house or clipping his nails.
Don't call him when he's loose in the yard. You can do the kibble rattle or suggest dinner, but don't use your new recall word if he's loose and could choose to ignore it. You might want to stop letting him run loose in the yard, or allow it only at times when you don't care how long he stays out there. Or you could let him drag a long line while he's out there if your yard is small enough that you can count on being able to grab the line and catch him (and if you're there with him, so you can help if he gets the line tangled in something.)
If you can get to the point where he eagerly comes to you when he hears the new recall word because he knows he will get something good, then you can start using it in more and more distracting situations, with him still on leash. A long line is good for making practice more challenging. And eventually, after a lot of practice, you can start trying it out off leash, but only in situations where he's very very reliable on leash.
posted by Redstart at 8:13 PM on September 2
Practice the recall a lot with him on leash and give really good rewards. Whenever you are going to give him something he wants or let him do something he wants, call him to you first - as long as he's on a leash or a long line, so you can make sure he actually does come to you. Never use the recall cue when you're going to do something he doesn't want, like putting him back in the house or clipping his nails.
Don't call him when he's loose in the yard. You can do the kibble rattle or suggest dinner, but don't use your new recall word if he's loose and could choose to ignore it. You might want to stop letting him run loose in the yard, or allow it only at times when you don't care how long he stays out there. Or you could let him drag a long line while he's out there if your yard is small enough that you can count on being able to grab the line and catch him (and if you're there with him, so you can help if he gets the line tangled in something.)
If you can get to the point where he eagerly comes to you when he hears the new recall word because he knows he will get something good, then you can start using it in more and more distracting situations, with him still on leash. A long line is good for making practice more challenging. And eventually, after a lot of practice, you can start trying it out off leash, but only in situations where he's very very reliable on leash.
posted by Redstart at 8:13 PM on September 2
What Redstart outlined is what my trainer would recommend. (We have 'back' which is serious and 'come' which is for the yard.)
Another thought I had was have you tried clicker training? That can be a good restart if you haven't. Take the time to read up on it.
And finally, my trainer is also big on the 'running down' - so that if you are in a situation you command 'down' and the dog lies down. If your dog is good at down you can start to train on doing it mid stride on the leash. It's obviously not the same as recall, but from a safety perspective, sometimes it's even more helpful.
posted by warriorqueen at 8:19 PM on September 2
Another thought I had was have you tried clicker training? That can be a good restart if you haven't. Take the time to read up on it.
And finally, my trainer is also big on the 'running down' - so that if you are in a situation you command 'down' and the dog lies down. If your dog is good at down you can start to train on doing it mid stride on the leash. It's obviously not the same as recall, but from a safety perspective, sometimes it's even more helpful.
posted by warriorqueen at 8:19 PM on September 2
He won’t do anything he doesn’t wanna do, and that’s on me.
That's true for anyone, always. The trick is to make dogs want to do what you want.
Your dog doesn't sound stubborn. He sounds untrained and smart. You've been to dog training centers, you say, but that doesn't mean the methods there were any good. Unfortunately, bad advice far outweighs the good in dog training circles. (An example of very bad advice would be attaching a long line to a choke chain.)
It would be helpful to know how you've practiced recall so far. Because from what you're describing, I'm a little bit mad at your trainers for failing to properly explain how learning works. For example, they should have explained that treats need to be happy surprises. Using them as bribes will get dogs to deliberate over every cue. You don't want that. You want your dog happy and excited to hear your recall cue. You want him sprinting to you in the same way he'd chase a ball. I know you didn't have a choice, because he just wouldn't come. But they should have helped you with that (and advised you to always use a long line in the meantime).
Another thing they should have told you is that whenever you're in a showdown like you've described in the yard, you should ask him for other things. Are there any cues he really likes? My dog loves "Roll" in any situation. Most dogs will always respond to "Search" if you throw a treat. Then say "Sit". Throw a treat, let him search again. Say "Sit", and go get him.
Your trainers should also have gone over the basics of recall - Redstart summarized them nicely. I'd add that you want to start out with no expectation of recall. At first, you're literally just feeding. I recommend a whistle. Whistle, feed a spoon of delicious (special) canned food. The cheap, unhealthy kind. If your dog is picky, try cat food. Repeat this feeding fun twice a day for 3-4 days and in varying locations. Then one day, wait until he's dozing, and blow the whistle. If he's happy and excited, you can start to slowly add distance and distractions. I'm recommending a whistle for the same reason Redstart said to use your special cue sparingly. Humans are very bad at using words sparingly. Whistles work better in that regard. Make sure you always whistle in roughly the same way. The other thing I'd add is that using a long line for the recall cue is a bad idea. You can use it instead of the cue. But please don't use your cue, and then pull the dog towards you. That can poison cues.
With your rattling kibble, you have a great opportunity to create a casual recall cue. Never rattle without first using that cue. The cue needs to be a predictor for the kibble rattle. That means it always has to precede the rattle. There will never be rattling without the cue, or the cue without rattling. When you notice that he's starting towards you at the cue, that's when you can fade out the rattle. Not the treats.
So, Rules of Recall Training
- only call when you can be certain your dog will come
- use a regular cue and a party cue. meaning:
- party cue gets used in emergencies or once a month. it's an invitation to a party of toys, treats, and silliness. dance. dogs love that.
- for short distances, don't use your recall. use a "touch" cue
- long lines are very good. [never attach a long line to a collar, always wear gloves.]
- use a friendly voice. you're friends!
Before doing anything else, I would teach a "Touch". "Touch" might be the very easiest of cues. Decide on your hand signal. Closed fist is often used. I use two fingers. Don't use just your index finger as you're probably using that for "Sit".
Sit down with your friend and a bowl of yummy treats. Treat in one hand, present cue with other hand. Most dogs paw at the hand that smells good for a while. In that case, but your cue hand behind your back and present it again a few seconds later. As soon as your dog touches your cue hand, the treat is available. Do this five times in a row, twice a day for a couple days. Then, start moving your hand. Keep practicing ten "Touch" cues per day, but change things around. Can he do it when you're lying down? Standing up? Standing on a chair? Can he do it behind your back? When you're about to go outside? In the backyard? And then, you can suddenly ask him to "Touch" in tricky situations.
Did your trainers explain that if you want a cue to work, it has to be "charged" with positive outcomes? You want a ratio of 5:1, maybe. As in, call your dog for some chicken five times for every one time you call him away from playing with friends. 5:1 at most. I think for my dogs, the ratio is more like 20:1. This means you have to be mindful and use your cues a lot - but only when you're sure your dog will be happy that he listened.
Be aware of your dog's intelligence. If you start to only use your recall cue when it's time to go home, he'll catch on. If you only start playing "Touch" right before you want him back inside, he'll stop responding.
PS: Just making sure - could he be scared? Because if he's scared (ducking, flat ears, tail low), there are some additional things you'd need to do. Also: Any chance there's a reason he specifically doesn't want to come inside in the morning? Is that the time he's left home alone, maybe even in a crate? In that case, I'd think about how to make his time home alone more fun and his space more comfortable.
posted by toucan at 9:08 PM on September 2
That's true for anyone, always. The trick is to make dogs want to do what you want.
Your dog doesn't sound stubborn. He sounds untrained and smart. You've been to dog training centers, you say, but that doesn't mean the methods there were any good. Unfortunately, bad advice far outweighs the good in dog training circles. (An example of very bad advice would be attaching a long line to a choke chain.)
It would be helpful to know how you've practiced recall so far. Because from what you're describing, I'm a little bit mad at your trainers for failing to properly explain how learning works. For example, they should have explained that treats need to be happy surprises. Using them as bribes will get dogs to deliberate over every cue. You don't want that. You want your dog happy and excited to hear your recall cue. You want him sprinting to you in the same way he'd chase a ball. I know you didn't have a choice, because he just wouldn't come. But they should have helped you with that (and advised you to always use a long line in the meantime).
Another thing they should have told you is that whenever you're in a showdown like you've described in the yard, you should ask him for other things. Are there any cues he really likes? My dog loves "Roll" in any situation. Most dogs will always respond to "Search" if you throw a treat. Then say "Sit". Throw a treat, let him search again. Say "Sit", and go get him.
Your trainers should also have gone over the basics of recall - Redstart summarized them nicely. I'd add that you want to start out with no expectation of recall. At first, you're literally just feeding. I recommend a whistle. Whistle, feed a spoon of delicious (special) canned food. The cheap, unhealthy kind. If your dog is picky, try cat food. Repeat this feeding fun twice a day for 3-4 days and in varying locations. Then one day, wait until he's dozing, and blow the whistle. If he's happy and excited, you can start to slowly add distance and distractions. I'm recommending a whistle for the same reason Redstart said to use your special cue sparingly. Humans are very bad at using words sparingly. Whistles work better in that regard. Make sure you always whistle in roughly the same way. The other thing I'd add is that using a long line for the recall cue is a bad idea. You can use it instead of the cue. But please don't use your cue, and then pull the dog towards you. That can poison cues.
With your rattling kibble, you have a great opportunity to create a casual recall cue. Never rattle without first using that cue. The cue needs to be a predictor for the kibble rattle. That means it always has to precede the rattle. There will never be rattling without the cue, or the cue without rattling. When you notice that he's starting towards you at the cue, that's when you can fade out the rattle. Not the treats.
So, Rules of Recall Training
- only call when you can be certain your dog will come
- use a regular cue and a party cue. meaning:
- party cue gets used in emergencies or once a month. it's an invitation to a party of toys, treats, and silliness. dance. dogs love that.
- for short distances, don't use your recall. use a "touch" cue
- long lines are very good. [never attach a long line to a collar, always wear gloves.]
- use a friendly voice. you're friends!
Before doing anything else, I would teach a "Touch". "Touch" might be the very easiest of cues. Decide on your hand signal. Closed fist is often used. I use two fingers. Don't use just your index finger as you're probably using that for "Sit".
Sit down with your friend and a bowl of yummy treats. Treat in one hand, present cue with other hand. Most dogs paw at the hand that smells good for a while. In that case, but your cue hand behind your back and present it again a few seconds later. As soon as your dog touches your cue hand, the treat is available. Do this five times in a row, twice a day for a couple days. Then, start moving your hand. Keep practicing ten "Touch" cues per day, but change things around. Can he do it when you're lying down? Standing up? Standing on a chair? Can he do it behind your back? When you're about to go outside? In the backyard? And then, you can suddenly ask him to "Touch" in tricky situations.
Did your trainers explain that if you want a cue to work, it has to be "charged" with positive outcomes? You want a ratio of 5:1, maybe. As in, call your dog for some chicken five times for every one time you call him away from playing with friends. 5:1 at most. I think for my dogs, the ratio is more like 20:1. This means you have to be mindful and use your cues a lot - but only when you're sure your dog will be happy that he listened.
Be aware of your dog's intelligence. If you start to only use your recall cue when it's time to go home, he'll catch on. If you only start playing "Touch" right before you want him back inside, he'll stop responding.
PS: Just making sure - could he be scared? Because if he's scared (ducking, flat ears, tail low), there are some additional things you'd need to do. Also: Any chance there's a reason he specifically doesn't want to come inside in the morning? Is that the time he's left home alone, maybe even in a crate? In that case, I'd think about how to make his time home alone more fun and his space more comfortable.
posted by toucan at 9:08 PM on September 2
I let my dog be outside with a longer leash attached that I'm not holding. She knows I can catch the leash and will come. This has been a help, because she'll comesoI can reinforce the training.
I'd consider keeping your dog on a line when you let them out to pee.
You bring the dog in and leave for work, so coming inside is a drag. Practice coming inside for play time, or coming inside and going back out.
Practice recall at home, in the yard, at a dog park, in the house.
Let the dog out sooner, so he has time to play and may want to come in.
Don't wave treats. That says if you come you get a treat which means there's a choice. Keep cut up hot dog or other yummy treats. Bring the dog to you on the leash or line, say come in now, and then reward the dog a random number of small treats. Random rewards are more effective. Inside, do a fun thing. Brush him, throw a toy, sit and scritch.
I talk to my dog. Dogs understand some words, lots of tone, more smell than you imagine. So I explain that I have to go someplace, I'll miss her, etc. She comes, I say Thank You and Good Job. Her behavior is better when I talk about what's going on; this has been true of other dogs I've had. I'm not consistent enough, so neither is she. it keeps improving.
posted by theora55 at 10:40 PM on September 2
I'd consider keeping your dog on a line when you let them out to pee.
You bring the dog in and leave for work, so coming inside is a drag. Practice coming inside for play time, or coming inside and going back out.
Practice recall at home, in the yard, at a dog park, in the house.
Let the dog out sooner, so he has time to play and may want to come in.
Don't wave treats. That says if you come you get a treat which means there's a choice. Keep cut up hot dog or other yummy treats. Bring the dog to you on the leash or line, say come in now, and then reward the dog a random number of small treats. Random rewards are more effective. Inside, do a fun thing. Brush him, throw a toy, sit and scritch.
I talk to my dog. Dogs understand some words, lots of tone, more smell than you imagine. So I explain that I have to go someplace, I'll miss her, etc. She comes, I say Thank You and Good Job. Her behavior is better when I talk about what's going on; this has been true of other dogs I've had. I'm not consistent enough, so neither is she. it keeps improving.
posted by theora55 at 10:40 PM on September 2
I realize there may be other things at play but: are you positive that his hearing is OK?
Also, I've heard people talk about how some dogs just aren't very food motivated, and how there's some different advice/methods for those dogs (using something different as positive reinforcement--maybe a ball/toy, if they like balls.) I haven't trained a dog like that, but I've heard serious dog people talk about it and how it's harder, but possible, and requires some different strategies. Something to look into if you haven't yet.
posted by needs more cowbell at 3:42 AM on September 3
Also, I've heard people talk about how some dogs just aren't very food motivated, and how there's some different advice/methods for those dogs (using something different as positive reinforcement--maybe a ball/toy, if they like balls.) I haven't trained a dog like that, but I've heard serious dog people talk about it and how it's harder, but possible, and requires some different strategies. Something to look into if you haven't yet.
posted by needs more cowbell at 3:42 AM on September 3
I have one of those dogs who finds play more motivating than food. It's worth considering whether there's something your dog wants more than food. But he actually sounds pretty food motivated to me. It sounds like he'd rather stay out in the yard than go back into the house but even so, 70% of the time a bit of kibble is enough to tip the balance toward going in. Not even a real treat, just plain kibble!
If one of your main issues is that you can't reliably get him in out of the yard, you could consider changing how you feed him. Instead of giving him two meals a day, you could give him a smaller amount every time he comes in from outside. You could make coming back into the house the only way (or the main way) he gets fed.
You still need to teach a recall for other situations, but I bet it will be a lot easier if you train it as just a fun thing he can do to get rewarded at random times, not something that is used to put an end to his fun.
posted by Redstart at 7:59 AM on September 3
If one of your main issues is that you can't reliably get him in out of the yard, you could consider changing how you feed him. Instead of giving him two meals a day, you could give him a smaller amount every time he comes in from outside. You could make coming back into the house the only way (or the main way) he gets fed.
You still need to teach a recall for other situations, but I bet it will be a lot easier if you train it as just a fun thing he can do to get rewarded at random times, not something that is used to put an end to his fun.
posted by Redstart at 7:59 AM on September 3
I have a pyr/border collie mix that looks a lot like yours, just a different color. At 13 yo, she has zero recall and never has. I tried everything and she is perfectly trained on everything else. But absolutely will not come to me. I also have a 3yo pibble mix, and her recall is comically amazing. When I call her and clap my hands, she will come to me at 100 miles an hour, thanks to high value treats during training. I’ve always wondered if it’s part of the pyr breed characteristics.
posted by raisingsand at 8:47 AM on September 3
posted by raisingsand at 8:47 AM on September 3
"He won’t do anything he doesn’t wanna do"
That's true for anyone, always. The trick is to make dogs want to do what you want.
I cannot emphasize enough how important this point is! You gotta make following your cues super duper rewarding and fun for your dog. For most dogs this involves using food/treats, as well as lots of praise when they do something right. From the doggo's point of view, the reward he expects to get by following your recall cue (because he's always gotten it before when he's followed your cue) needs to be **more** appealing than the environment (good smells, other dogs, other people, whatever you're trying to call him away from). Otherwise why would he decide it's worth his while to come to you? So, use good treats, and really lather on the praise, if that's motivating for your dog :) You may or may not always need to use those things, once you've built the habit, but at least at the beginning they're essential.
Oh, and start easy! If your dog isn't coming to you at all when you call them in from the yard, then start in an easier environment. Practice inside in your living room or something, where there aren't competing distractions. Then gradually work your way up to longer distances (like, seriously, six inches farther at a time at the beginning, if you need to), and then to outside. You gotta meet your dog where they're at, and set them up for success at each step. If it starts getting too hard for them, go back and make it easier again.
Again, please don't approach training from the point of view of trying to make your dog do something they don't wanna do. The only way to force a dog (or a person, for that matter) to do something they don't wanna do is to use force, or pain, or fear. And the good news is, you really don't have to do that! Positive training works. I recommend searching for "positive reinforcement training" or "R+" training to learn more, or to find a trainer who practices purely positive training.
(Choke chains and "leash corrections" work because they cause pain and fear, by the way. It makes me really sad to see them being recommended on Metafilter.)
I guess the one other thing I'll throw out there is that I don't think you should feel pressured to ensure your dog has perfect recall. Sure, in a perfect world it would be great if they did, and I applaud you for trying so hard! And certainly don't let them off leash in public unless/until they do have solid recall. But, your dog can live a perfectly fulfilling life on a long line instead of being off leash in most situations. I don't super trust my dog's recall in very distracting environments either, so she's on a long line most of the time, and I feel totally fine about that.
Good luck! You sound like a super responsible and dedicated owner who is trying to do right by your dog, and I totally applaud that.
posted by peperomia at 3:07 PM on September 3
That's true for anyone, always. The trick is to make dogs want to do what you want.
I cannot emphasize enough how important this point is! You gotta make following your cues super duper rewarding and fun for your dog. For most dogs this involves using food/treats, as well as lots of praise when they do something right. From the doggo's point of view, the reward he expects to get by following your recall cue (because he's always gotten it before when he's followed your cue) needs to be **more** appealing than the environment (good smells, other dogs, other people, whatever you're trying to call him away from). Otherwise why would he decide it's worth his while to come to you? So, use good treats, and really lather on the praise, if that's motivating for your dog :) You may or may not always need to use those things, once you've built the habit, but at least at the beginning they're essential.
Oh, and start easy! If your dog isn't coming to you at all when you call them in from the yard, then start in an easier environment. Practice inside in your living room or something, where there aren't competing distractions. Then gradually work your way up to longer distances (like, seriously, six inches farther at a time at the beginning, if you need to), and then to outside. You gotta meet your dog where they're at, and set them up for success at each step. If it starts getting too hard for them, go back and make it easier again.
Again, please don't approach training from the point of view of trying to make your dog do something they don't wanna do. The only way to force a dog (or a person, for that matter) to do something they don't wanna do is to use force, or pain, or fear. And the good news is, you really don't have to do that! Positive training works. I recommend searching for "positive reinforcement training" or "R+" training to learn more, or to find a trainer who practices purely positive training.
(Choke chains and "leash corrections" work because they cause pain and fear, by the way. It makes me really sad to see them being recommended on Metafilter.)
I guess the one other thing I'll throw out there is that I don't think you should feel pressured to ensure your dog has perfect recall. Sure, in a perfect world it would be great if they did, and I applaud you for trying so hard! And certainly don't let them off leash in public unless/until they do have solid recall. But, your dog can live a perfectly fulfilling life on a long line instead of being off leash in most situations. I don't super trust my dog's recall in very distracting environments either, so she's on a long line most of the time, and I feel totally fine about that.
Good luck! You sound like a super responsible and dedicated owner who is trying to do right by your dog, and I totally applaud that.
posted by peperomia at 3:07 PM on September 3
I have had success training my dogs in the following order:
First, I train them to sit. When they can sit, I then work on having them sit longer, i.e. to stay.
As part of the “stay” learning process, I eventually begin to move away from them in ever increasing distances while they “stay.” To release them from the stay, I drop to a knee, put my arms out to them and act thrilled while saying Goodboy! Come! (As in come get your treat and lots of praise from staying so well.)
After a while, they put together that the word “come!” is the opposite of ”stay” and they will come on command even when they had not been told to stay first. (I have always had the treat waiting for them; I use tiny bits of American cheese slices.)
Use lots of praise and work in 5 minute sessions with ever increasing rest times. Don’t try to do too much in one bout. Spaced repetition is what works.
posted by DB Cooper at 4:40 PM on September 3
First, I train them to sit. When they can sit, I then work on having them sit longer, i.e. to stay.
As part of the “stay” learning process, I eventually begin to move away from them in ever increasing distances while they “stay.” To release them from the stay, I drop to a knee, put my arms out to them and act thrilled while saying Goodboy! Come! (As in come get your treat and lots of praise from staying so well.)
After a while, they put together that the word “come!” is the opposite of ”stay” and they will come on command even when they had not been told to stay first. (I have always had the treat waiting for them; I use tiny bits of American cheese slices.)
Use lots of praise and work in 5 minute sessions with ever increasing rest times. Don’t try to do too much in one bout. Spaced repetition is what works.
posted by DB Cooper at 4:40 PM on September 3
I can't do better than what toucan and Redstart have laid out, but I think it's worth saying that there is no such thing as "perfect" recall. That is, there is no way to train a dog such that you can 100% guarantee that in any circumstance or situation that a dog will come when called.
This is not to discourage you from training or saying that the struggles you're having with your dog don't matter! You should and they do! But, especially from a safety perspective, needing to keep your dog leashed (or crated or otherwise secured) sometimes is by no means a failure of you or your dog. Not every dog should or needs to be off leash; many dogs that are left unsecured by their owners would be much happier and safer if leashed.
the reward needs to be **more** appealing than the environment
I think the intent of this saying is to make people think about their dog's individual motivations in a rounded way, which I agree with completely; but also a lot of people take this really literally and end up on a scavenger hunt for, like, the most rarefied delicious stinky treats, which is really not necessary. The key is that you need to offer an alternative to (whatever undesirable but rewarding behavior) that is attractive enough and also consistent.
You don't have to find a treat that is literally better than chasing a squirrel (for example), but by setting up a pattern of expectation and experience (i.e. training), when your dog has the opportunity to chase (fun) something they can't catch (frustrating) instead they opt for the safe, predictable reward from you. This is the same thought process that leads people to choose chain restaurants while traveling--the food may be mid, but it's reliably mid, so it's low risk. Dogs will generally pick the bird in hand.
Training should be an ongoing conversation between you and your dog, where you figure out how to live your lives together so that everyone gets their needs met. It might be worth really thinking about what your dog is trying to tell you about his needs when he refuses to come in from the yard. If you can figure that out, you'll be in a good spot to direct your training efforts most efficiently. Good luck!
posted by radiogreentea at 6:15 PM on September 3
This is not to discourage you from training or saying that the struggles you're having with your dog don't matter! You should and they do! But, especially from a safety perspective, needing to keep your dog leashed (or crated or otherwise secured) sometimes is by no means a failure of you or your dog. Not every dog should or needs to be off leash; many dogs that are left unsecured by their owners would be much happier and safer if leashed.
the reward needs to be **more** appealing than the environment
I think the intent of this saying is to make people think about their dog's individual motivations in a rounded way, which I agree with completely; but also a lot of people take this really literally and end up on a scavenger hunt for, like, the most rarefied delicious stinky treats, which is really not necessary. The key is that you need to offer an alternative to (whatever undesirable but rewarding behavior) that is attractive enough and also consistent.
You don't have to find a treat that is literally better than chasing a squirrel (for example), but by setting up a pattern of expectation and experience (i.e. training), when your dog has the opportunity to chase (fun) something they can't catch (frustrating) instead they opt for the safe, predictable reward from you. This is the same thought process that leads people to choose chain restaurants while traveling--the food may be mid, but it's reliably mid, so it's low risk. Dogs will generally pick the bird in hand.
Training should be an ongoing conversation between you and your dog, where you figure out how to live your lives together so that everyone gets their needs met. It might be worth really thinking about what your dog is trying to tell you about his needs when he refuses to come in from the yard. If you can figure that out, you'll be in a good spot to direct your training efforts most efficiently. Good luck!
posted by radiogreentea at 6:15 PM on September 3
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You back up and say name. If he doesn't immediately come to you, eat the treat. He sees you eat this treat. Session over walk away.
Use is name very sparingly, and never use it when you are about to scold him.
posted by beccaj at 7:22 PM on September 2