How do I keep on top of my allotment in the second growing year?
October 29, 2023 9:37 AM Subscribe
Help me plan for an organised vegetable plot in 2024 with limited resources.
Last year my name came up on the council list for a very small allotment, less than quarter of a full size by the UK’s archaic and strange allotment sizing rules. I think in the US these are called community gardens. I’m basically talking about a little plot of land allocated for one person, intended for growing vegetables and fruit. Mine has no amenities like a shed for storing tools or a greenhouse for starting off plants, which has made things difficult. I’m not currently able to get those things, new is too expensive and second hand would require transport that I don’t have, although I’m keeping an ear to the ground about anyone getting rid of a shed on my allotment site itself that could be shifted on foot.
Last year I did well in winter spring and early summer, and then was completely overrun with weeds when some very big and stressful life events kept me away for a few weeks in July, which was discouraging and I never got back on top of it. I’ve resorted to covering the whole plot with weed suppressing membrane for now, as I won’t be able to touch it until January at the earliest since I’m about to have surgery and this will at least stop the plot from getting worse (and hopefully keep my neighbours from cursing me.) I think fear of judgement from the other allotment members is a factor - as with all allotments many of the plotholders are retired and have all day to faff around on their plots, whereas I was balancing work and caring responsibilities for my newly disabled partner this year, so I’m trying to not be hard on myself. A lot of the work I did this year in creating no dig beds with decent compost will help me next year and things are better for me in terms of the time I’ll have available to spend there.
I really love working on the allotment, it’s easily one of the most beneficial activities I’ve ever discovered for my mental and physical health and I’ve really missed it the last few months. The feeling of growing and eating my own carrots was pure joy. I don’t and will likely never have my own garden and it took a long time to get a place in a council run allotment site, so I really want to make this work if I possibly can.
How do I use the time I have now to come up with an actionable plan of attack for next year? How do I get over the awkwardness of coming back and starting again after letting my plot get overgrown? Can you recommend useful gardening resources that can help me plan what I’m planting and when? What extremely basic DIY solutions might help me keep my tools from rusting while they’re left out in the open? Most people seem to have a shed for this, but I don’t, so I can’t just do whatever other people are doing. The site is a half hour bus ride or short cycle from my house, if that helps to know.
Last year my name came up on the council list for a very small allotment, less than quarter of a full size by the UK’s archaic and strange allotment sizing rules. I think in the US these are called community gardens. I’m basically talking about a little plot of land allocated for one person, intended for growing vegetables and fruit. Mine has no amenities like a shed for storing tools or a greenhouse for starting off plants, which has made things difficult. I’m not currently able to get those things, new is too expensive and second hand would require transport that I don’t have, although I’m keeping an ear to the ground about anyone getting rid of a shed on my allotment site itself that could be shifted on foot.
Last year I did well in winter spring and early summer, and then was completely overrun with weeds when some very big and stressful life events kept me away for a few weeks in July, which was discouraging and I never got back on top of it. I’ve resorted to covering the whole plot with weed suppressing membrane for now, as I won’t be able to touch it until January at the earliest since I’m about to have surgery and this will at least stop the plot from getting worse (and hopefully keep my neighbours from cursing me.) I think fear of judgement from the other allotment members is a factor - as with all allotments many of the plotholders are retired and have all day to faff around on their plots, whereas I was balancing work and caring responsibilities for my newly disabled partner this year, so I’m trying to not be hard on myself. A lot of the work I did this year in creating no dig beds with decent compost will help me next year and things are better for me in terms of the time I’ll have available to spend there.
I really love working on the allotment, it’s easily one of the most beneficial activities I’ve ever discovered for my mental and physical health and I’ve really missed it the last few months. The feeling of growing and eating my own carrots was pure joy. I don’t and will likely never have my own garden and it took a long time to get a place in a council run allotment site, so I really want to make this work if I possibly can.
How do I use the time I have now to come up with an actionable plan of attack for next year? How do I get over the awkwardness of coming back and starting again after letting my plot get overgrown? Can you recommend useful gardening resources that can help me plan what I’m planting and when? What extremely basic DIY solutions might help me keep my tools from rusting while they’re left out in the open? Most people seem to have a shed for this, but I don’t, so I can’t just do whatever other people are doing. The site is a half hour bus ride or short cycle from my house, if that helps to know.
Best answer: An intermediate solution to having a shed might be something like a footlocker/trunk so you can store a few tools out of the rain. You’d need transport help -once-, and you could always wire or bolt it to some breezeblocks to a) keep the trunk itself off the ground and b) keep it safer from casual theft, if that is a concern.
I think your best bet for the full-time-allotment-types is to co-opt them. When you see them, ask for their advice (as narrowly or broadly as you are actually open to). They’ll be at least a little bit invested in your success with any situation where you took their advice, and they will have their expectations set early - you are intentionally starting small so you can keep it under control.
For actual gardening advice, I would suggest that you set aside at least 1/3 -maybe 1/2 - maybe 2/3 - of your allotment for things that are easier and less mayhem-prone than vegetables. Say a cutting garden (if you abandon it mid-summer it will basically just look like a nice garden border) and/or low-effort perennials like chives. Then you can adjust the ratio as you get settled season-over-season.
posted by janell at 10:23 AM on October 29, 2023 [5 favorites]
I think your best bet for the full-time-allotment-types is to co-opt them. When you see them, ask for their advice (as narrowly or broadly as you are actually open to). They’ll be at least a little bit invested in your success with any situation where you took their advice, and they will have their expectations set early - you are intentionally starting small so you can keep it under control.
For actual gardening advice, I would suggest that you set aside at least 1/3 -maybe 1/2 - maybe 2/3 - of your allotment for things that are easier and less mayhem-prone than vegetables. Say a cutting garden (if you abandon it mid-summer it will basically just look like a nice garden border) and/or low-effort perennials like chives. Then you can adjust the ratio as you get settled season-over-season.
posted by janell at 10:23 AM on October 29, 2023 [5 favorites]
Response by poster: I'm just growing basic vegetable garden vegetables - carrots, potatoes, herbs, garlic. I have clay soil but am offsetting that by growing in compost in raised beds, and I'm in USDA hardiness zone 9a. I'm more looking for advice about how to go about planning so I can come at it with a more structured approach than I did this year, like an app with reminders about when to plant maybe? It's the lack of organisation that makes me feel unsure of myself, so I feel like I need some sort of way to keep track of my plan of attack.
By tools I mean things like a wheelbarrow, rakes, spades, hoes etc as well as smaller handtools. I do have a plastic weatherproof box that a lot of things will fit in, but really I think I need some sort of at least waist high structure, or some other way to keep these things dryish and organised.
posted by chives at 10:26 AM on October 29, 2023
By tools I mean things like a wheelbarrow, rakes, spades, hoes etc as well as smaller handtools. I do have a plastic weatherproof box that a lot of things will fit in, but really I think I need some sort of at least waist high structure, or some other way to keep these things dryish and organised.
posted by chives at 10:26 AM on October 29, 2023
You or someone with a sewing machine (or a fondness for setting grommets) could DIY a tarp and some secondhand tent poles (or PVC pipe) into a ‘raincoat’ for your wheelbarrow, which might also let you store some things -in- the wheelbarrow. Think of a structure like a tiny hoop house just big enough to park your WB inside (or just big enough to park on top the wheelbarrow and strap onto it against wind-gusts).
Another idea for the tall tools is to make a tall-enough ‘tube’ out of whatever wire mesh is available and stiff enough to stand up. I would use hardware cloth or ‘cow panels’ and bend it into a cylinder. Some wire ties and stakes to keep the bottom half in the ground, and a slightly larger cylinder made the same way to go on top. Add a tarp raincoat and maybe a cone of tin for a roof and you’d have an overgrown ‘tea jar’ to hold your long-handled tools. A few inches of gravel in the bottom to keep the tools above ground level. All of those bits should be bikeable, especially if you actually build it on site.
posted by janell at 10:40 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
Another idea for the tall tools is to make a tall-enough ‘tube’ out of whatever wire mesh is available and stiff enough to stand up. I would use hardware cloth or ‘cow panels’ and bend it into a cylinder. Some wire ties and stakes to keep the bottom half in the ground, and a slightly larger cylinder made the same way to go on top. Add a tarp raincoat and maybe a cone of tin for a roof and you’d have an overgrown ‘tea jar’ to hold your long-handled tools. A few inches of gravel in the bottom to keep the tools above ground level. All of those bits should be bikeable, especially if you actually build it on site.
posted by janell at 10:40 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
Last couple of ideas
- an A-frame structure from a couple of panels of corrugated metal roof panels. You’d need to rig some cross-ties.
- a cow panel hoop-tunnel (ie a cow panel or two and some rebar stakes) might be too much for your transportation, but it would a) support vining veg growth (eg melons or beans) and could be b) and part-time hoop house and c) would give you some support and protection for any of the other storage rigs you come up with.
posted by janell at 10:48 AM on October 29, 2023
- an A-frame structure from a couple of panels of corrugated metal roof panels. You’d need to rig some cross-ties.
- a cow panel hoop-tunnel (ie a cow panel or two and some rebar stakes) might be too much for your transportation, but it would a) support vining veg growth (eg melons or beans) and could be b) and part-time hoop house and c) would give you some support and protection for any of the other storage rigs you come up with.
posted by janell at 10:48 AM on October 29, 2023
Best answer: We have a similar setup, but my location provides a wheelbarrow and a big shovel. if theft is a problem, I wonder if you could get a cheap wheelbarrow and a bike lock, and maybe lock it to a fence? Other than that, the only tools I use are a hand hoe/digger tool and a watering can, which I either put in the back of the car or strap to my bike. Or sometimes a 5-gallon bucket (this year there was an issue with the hoses for a while so we had to haul water from a nearby stream, DO NOT recommend!) It's possible I'm not the one to ask re: tools.
Other than that, I plan throughout the winter for the spring. First I figure out what I want and what is realistic to grow, then I plan it in by life stages. So, garlic and poppies and other overwintering things are already planted, and I have the seeds, dirt, trays, and lights for the things I need to start in March for planting in May/June. And I also have the seeds or know where I can get the starts for the things I don't personally want to start (celery.) This starts by evaluating what I liked this year and what didn't work. Then I map it out on paper with the general idea of where everything should go. It goes in my calendar as a reminder. This year I had it together and painted some rocks to leave out there to remind me where things are and where other things are supposed to go.
Weeding is always a pain in the neck and you have to both stay on top of it as much as you can, AND accept that the weeds have only one goal which is to grow where they want, so you can't really get them all. I would also say-- if there are any plants that are super easy and productive, basically weeds but tasty or pretty-- maybe grow those preferentially. Where I am, it's dragon tail radishes, rhubarb, and violas that are the no-effort plants, so I can plant those and let them do the thing while I'm spending the majority of my effort on the weird things that need babying. This is what those local wildflower mixes are for-- throw and go, if anyone has a problem with it you can be like "but the pollinators!!!" and they'll feel suitably ashamed. The point of the garden is to help YOU, it does not need to be a competition.
I suppose this is to say that that when you are planning for next year, you need to take into account what you want, what will do well, and your energy budget vs. effort. One of my garden plot neighbors for two years running has ONLY done potatoes-- which just want you to water them sometimes and leave them alone-- because she's too busy and our plot rules are that it's use it or lose it. I personally do not bother with tomatoes or watermelon because I'd have to build a temporary greenhouse and constantly be fertilizing and pruning and soil testing, and to hell with it, I'll grow peas instead.
posted by blnkfrnk at 11:06 AM on October 29, 2023 [2 favorites]
Other than that, I plan throughout the winter for the spring. First I figure out what I want and what is realistic to grow, then I plan it in by life stages. So, garlic and poppies and other overwintering things are already planted, and I have the seeds, dirt, trays, and lights for the things I need to start in March for planting in May/June. And I also have the seeds or know where I can get the starts for the things I don't personally want to start (celery.) This starts by evaluating what I liked this year and what didn't work. Then I map it out on paper with the general idea of where everything should go. It goes in my calendar as a reminder. This year I had it together and painted some rocks to leave out there to remind me where things are and where other things are supposed to go.
Weeding is always a pain in the neck and you have to both stay on top of it as much as you can, AND accept that the weeds have only one goal which is to grow where they want, so you can't really get them all. I would also say-- if there are any plants that are super easy and productive, basically weeds but tasty or pretty-- maybe grow those preferentially. Where I am, it's dragon tail radishes, rhubarb, and violas that are the no-effort plants, so I can plant those and let them do the thing while I'm spending the majority of my effort on the weird things that need babying. This is what those local wildflower mixes are for-- throw and go, if anyone has a problem with it you can be like "but the pollinators!!!" and they'll feel suitably ashamed. The point of the garden is to help YOU, it does not need to be a competition.
I suppose this is to say that that when you are planning for next year, you need to take into account what you want, what will do well, and your energy budget vs. effort. One of my garden plot neighbors for two years running has ONLY done potatoes-- which just want you to water them sometimes and leave them alone-- because she's too busy and our plot rules are that it's use it or lose it. I personally do not bother with tomatoes or watermelon because I'd have to build a temporary greenhouse and constantly be fertilizing and pruning and soil testing, and to hell with it, I'll grow peas instead.
posted by blnkfrnk at 11:06 AM on October 29, 2023 [2 favorites]
Best answer: Have a look at "square foot gardening". Dividing your plot into squares makes weeding more manageable. You weed one square at a time. You start all of your seeds in trays or pots (even the ones that the books tell you not to), this will give them a head start on the weeds. Now is a good time to plant some garlic and onions!
posted by night_train at 11:21 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by night_train at 11:21 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
Big plug for deep mulching with straw or hay, which maybe you can get delivered at the beginning of the season? We cover our raised beds in 6-8 inches of straw (or ideally weed-free hay, which is higher in nitrogen). This keeps 90
percent of the weeds from even starting, and even perennial weeds have a hard time getting through and are way easier to pull when they manage to get up there. There are a lot of other knock on benefits of deep mulching, including keeping the soil more consistently moist, and letting detritivores work at the soil-mulch interface, building new compost from the straw all season.
posted by rockindata at 11:28 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
percent of the weeds from even starting, and even perennial weeds have a hard time getting through and are way easier to pull when they manage to get up there. There are a lot of other knock on benefits of deep mulching, including keeping the soil more consistently moist, and letting detritivores work at the soil-mulch interface, building new compost from the straw all season.
posted by rockindata at 11:28 AM on October 29, 2023 [1 favorite]
Best answer: For now, you may need to rely on seeds and shared plants. I'm in Maine, northeast US, and lots of people share seedlings. My growing season is short, and I buy seedlings, because the local farmer's market has good ones that are affordable.
A shed would be great, but, meanwhile, you can still garden. Scrounge tips for old wood-framed windows, boards, plywood. You can make a frame with a plywood back and old windows. Do you have Buy Nothing or similar? So much good free stuff.
Fear of judgement I totally get this. But it's as likely that many other gardeners at the allotment would be happy to help, especially if you get to know them a little. Also, it's your space. You have every right to be there and do as you please. Don't let nosy garden-judgers faze you. I do have a little garden in my front yard, and my yard is an awful mess, and I decided I didn't have the energy to care. The birds, chipmunks and squirrels eat most of it, but I like garden, so I keep trying. You were so smart to build your compost. Sometimes clay soil benefits from a bit of sand, too. My raised bed is full of compost, so at least weeding is not difficult.
What green leafy veg will tolerate the weather where you are? You should be able to plant peas, lettuces, spinach and others in Fall for an early crop or quite early in Spring. I found a page that has a good planting guide for my zone. Get, make, print a calendar. I have reminders for when and what to plant in my google calendar. A paper calendar would probably help. Where are you located? We might be able to find a useful planting guide. Do your best with the time and energy you have; your garden will be happy to reward you.
posted by theora55 at 4:05 PM on October 29, 2023 [3 favorites]
A shed would be great, but, meanwhile, you can still garden. Scrounge tips for old wood-framed windows, boards, plywood. You can make a frame with a plywood back and old windows. Do you have Buy Nothing or similar? So much good free stuff.
Fear of judgement I totally get this. But it's as likely that many other gardeners at the allotment would be happy to help, especially if you get to know them a little. Also, it's your space. You have every right to be there and do as you please. Don't let nosy garden-judgers faze you. I do have a little garden in my front yard, and my yard is an awful mess, and I decided I didn't have the energy to care. The birds, chipmunks and squirrels eat most of it, but I like garden, so I keep trying. You were so smart to build your compost. Sometimes clay soil benefits from a bit of sand, too. My raised bed is full of compost, so at least weeding is not difficult.
What green leafy veg will tolerate the weather where you are? You should be able to plant peas, lettuces, spinach and others in Fall for an early crop or quite early in Spring. I found a page that has a good planting guide for my zone. Get, make, print a calendar. I have reminders for when and what to plant in my google calendar. A paper calendar would probably help. Where are you located? We might be able to find a useful planting guide. Do your best with the time and energy you have; your garden will be happy to reward you.
posted by theora55 at 4:05 PM on October 29, 2023 [3 favorites]
Response by poster: Thanks so much everyone for all the encouraging and sensible advice so far. I’m in the north west of the UK in a particularly rainy area (so unfortunately not able to mulch with straw as slugs are a huge problem here, but I know that kind of mulching works great in drier places.)
posted by chives at 6:08 PM on October 29, 2023
posted by chives at 6:08 PM on October 29, 2023
You might consider inorganic mulch like landscape fabric/geotextile to keep weeds down.
posted by mareli at 6:21 AM on October 30, 2023
posted by mareli at 6:21 AM on October 30, 2023
If you feel a bit overwhelmed, or lack time, consider sharing the allotment with a helper. With the length of allotment waiting lists in the UK, there are usually people who would jump at the chance to share a plot. (That's what we do on our allotment in London, as do the neighbouring plot.)
And I agree with the people above who advise overcoming fear of judgment. It is your space and as long as you do the minimum necessary, it's nobody else's business what it looks like. You are clearly benefiting from it already. Other people probably judge less than you think.
(Sorry, I know this wasn't answering the practical aspects of your question, but you got lots of good suggestions already.)
posted by snarfois at 10:37 AM on October 31, 2023 [1 favorite]
And I agree with the people above who advise overcoming fear of judgment. It is your space and as long as you do the minimum necessary, it's nobody else's business what it looks like. You are clearly benefiting from it already. Other people probably judge less than you think.
(Sorry, I know this wasn't answering the practical aspects of your question, but you got lots of good suggestions already.)
posted by snarfois at 10:37 AM on October 31, 2023 [1 favorite]
I had a very very similar allotment in my rainy NW England town a few years ago and experienced much the same issues as yourself, down to the extremely small plot, to the point where a shed or greenhouse would dominate a big portion of it. I ended up giving it up within a year because the organisational challenges were too much. I believe a bigger plot would have given more room for experimentation and a shed could have meant keeping a spade and fork and watering there instead of schlepping it about! Worst of all they'd rotovated it before giving it to me so it was weed central.
I guess I don't really have much practical advice but I'm half wondering if we're from the same place and they're still trying to flog the tiny crappy corner plot onto someone! Gardenfocused.co.uk has a calculator which I found very useful, you put your location in, tell it what you want to plant and it gives you customised times to sow/transplant/stop watering/harvest and it was profoundly helpful in planning my planting (I mostly bought already started plants from my fellow allotmenters and from garden centers because I had no way to start seeds).
My main advice is to talk to fellow plot holders about the challenges and successes they have and keep that in mind when planning. Oh, and in mid March to early April, get a box of dried peas. Soak overnight and plant them, a row a week over about 6 weeks. Protect the plants from pigeons while they're growing (netting), they need no extra care otherwise and in about 3 months you'll be party to one of the greatest joys one can have - peas straight off the vine. Absolutely divine.
Good luck, hope its better than mine was!
posted by daysocks at 7:53 PM on November 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
I guess I don't really have much practical advice but I'm half wondering if we're from the same place and they're still trying to flog the tiny crappy corner plot onto someone! Gardenfocused.co.uk has a calculator which I found very useful, you put your location in, tell it what you want to plant and it gives you customised times to sow/transplant/stop watering/harvest and it was profoundly helpful in planning my planting (I mostly bought already started plants from my fellow allotmenters and from garden centers because I had no way to start seeds).
My main advice is to talk to fellow plot holders about the challenges and successes they have and keep that in mind when planning. Oh, and in mid March to early April, get a box of dried peas. Soak overnight and plant them, a row a week over about 6 weeks. Protect the plants from pigeons while they're growing (netting), they need no extra care otherwise and in about 3 months you'll be party to one of the greatest joys one can have - peas straight off the vine. Absolutely divine.
Good luck, hope its better than mine was!
posted by daysocks at 7:53 PM on November 3, 2023 [1 favorite]
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posted by showbiz_liz at 10:20 AM on October 29, 2023