Train from NYC to Quebec City/Montreal--would like tips and ideas
October 28, 2014 5:46 PM Subscribe
Hi, my SO and I are taking the train from NYC to Quebec City and/or Montreal between Christmas and New Year's. I have never been to Montreal or QC or taken such a long train ride, and I would welcome general tips and suggestions about the trip. We will not be renting a car, but we are savvy transit-users and walkers. More questions inside:
1) What are the interesting, walkable areas in Montreal and/or QC?
2) Can you recommend a hostel with private rooms in one of those neighborhoods? We'd love to stay somewhere where we could get a cup of coffee and a bagel without a schlep.
3) Anything we should know in advance as people with marginal French skills who have never been to these areas at Christmastime?
4) Anything we should know as vegans/vegetarians?
5) Any special events we shouldn't miss?
1) What are the interesting, walkable areas in Montreal and/or QC?
2) Can you recommend a hostel with private rooms in one of those neighborhoods? We'd love to stay somewhere where we could get a cup of coffee and a bagel without a schlep.
3) Anything we should know in advance as people with marginal French skills who have never been to these areas at Christmastime?
4) Anything we should know as vegans/vegetarians?
5) Any special events we shouldn't miss?
Best answer: Downtown Montreal and Old Montreal and the Old Port are the usual areas to explore on foot, although you might also like the Plateau/Mile End area in Montreal.
Be warned, the snow has usually begun to accumulate before the end of December. If the weather's bad you could explore the underground city, although a lot of it will be in the throes of Boxing Day sales that week.
In Quebec City, stay in Vieux-Québec, which is easily defined: it's inside the old city walls. There are a lot of small hotels there, and the place looks its best in wintertime. Look for lists of auberges. Book soon, though.
Quebec is colder than Montreal in general, but it might be because the old city is on a cliff overlooking the river and a sharp wind comes off the water, or rather ice, at that time of year.
Almost everyone involved in the tourism business in both cities will speak English. In Montreal, almost anyone you run into in shops and stores will speak English. It's only in Quebec City, if you stray off the beaten path at all, that you tend to encounter people who really don't speak anything but French.
Here is a list of vegetarian and veg-friendly establishments in Montreal. Quebec City is not one of your vegan meccas.
Things will be lit up and pretty in both towns for the season, and there's a skating rink in the Old Port in Montreal, and there's a rink just outside the city walls in Quebec – or used to be. Some things will be closed for that week, museums notably, although not necessarily. Stores will be having sales.
In Montreal, "Saint-Laurent" can refer to several things. In French it's the name of the river. It's also the name of a large, partly industrial suburb on the western side of the island, which also encompasses the airport. I don't think you're referring to either of these, but to Boulevard Saint-Laurent, or – as you're still allowed to call it – St. Lawrence, or the Main.
It's the street that bisects the island, and has a lot of things along it, starting with Place d'Armes and Chinatown on the southern end. (There's nothing vegetarian in Chinatown, though.) Walking up from Old Montreal to the tracks is about 5 km and kind of interesting, and then you can turn west, drop in at the Drawn & Quarterly bookstore or have a coffee at the Olimpico.
posted by zadcat at 6:35 PM on October 28, 2014 [1 favorite]
Be warned, the snow has usually begun to accumulate before the end of December. If the weather's bad you could explore the underground city, although a lot of it will be in the throes of Boxing Day sales that week.
In Quebec City, stay in Vieux-Québec, which is easily defined: it's inside the old city walls. There are a lot of small hotels there, and the place looks its best in wintertime. Look for lists of auberges. Book soon, though.
Quebec is colder than Montreal in general, but it might be because the old city is on a cliff overlooking the river and a sharp wind comes off the water, or rather ice, at that time of year.
Almost everyone involved in the tourism business in both cities will speak English. In Montreal, almost anyone you run into in shops and stores will speak English. It's only in Quebec City, if you stray off the beaten path at all, that you tend to encounter people who really don't speak anything but French.
Here is a list of vegetarian and veg-friendly establishments in Montreal. Quebec City is not one of your vegan meccas.
Things will be lit up and pretty in both towns for the season, and there's a skating rink in the Old Port in Montreal, and there's a rink just outside the city walls in Quebec – or used to be. Some things will be closed for that week, museums notably, although not necessarily. Stores will be having sales.
In Montreal, "Saint-Laurent" can refer to several things. In French it's the name of the river. It's also the name of a large, partly industrial suburb on the western side of the island, which also encompasses the airport. I don't think you're referring to either of these, but to Boulevard Saint-Laurent, or – as you're still allowed to call it – St. Lawrence, or the Main.
It's the street that bisects the island, and has a lot of things along it, starting with Place d'Armes and Chinatown on the southern end. (There's nothing vegetarian in Chinatown, though.) Walking up from Old Montreal to the tracks is about 5 km and kind of interesting, and then you can turn west, drop in at the Drawn & Quarterly bookstore or have a coffee at the Olimpico.
posted by zadcat at 6:35 PM on October 28, 2014 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Bring food for the train. We took Amtrak from NYC to Niagara and I had a hard time finding vegetarian food options. Amtrak's website says you don't need to special request a vegetarian meal, but the only option available to me on our trip back was a partially-frozen salad. I'm not sure if there were just a ton of veggies on board or what, but I really wish I had packed snacks.
posted by peanut_mcgillicuty at 7:06 PM on October 28, 2014
posted by peanut_mcgillicuty at 7:06 PM on October 28, 2014
Best answer: On a whim, I spent a few days in Montreal just before New Year's a couple of years ago. It was around zero degrees and a few inches of snow had just fallen, so bring sturdy coats and boots and all the rest. They are very good about clearing the streets and sidewalks, unlike parts of NYC. You can take the subway around town, and it's very easy to navigate. I had no issue with language, as I don't speak a word of French. I drove up, so don't have any advice on the Amtrak.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 7:14 PM on October 28, 2014
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 7:14 PM on October 28, 2014
Best answer: Traditional French-Canadian food is very meat-centric, but there are a lot of good vegetarian / vegan options out there. My favourites are Aux Vivres on Saint-Laurent and Chu Chai (amazing mock meat) on Saint-Denis, also on the Plateau. La Panthere Verte / The Green Panther is also great, and they have a few locations.
I'd look for an AirBnB over a hostel in Montreal — the hostels tend to be in the southern/touristy part of town, not so much in the central districts and on the Plateau. If you're after bagels (and you should be!), you'll want to go to either Bagel Saint Viateur or Fairmount Bagel. I realise you might have asked about bagels rather casually, but they're serious business in Montreal, and each family has their favourite. For the record, mine is a Saint Viateur crowd.
One thing on language: it's impossible for someone who hasn't grown up there to understand how divisive language issues are in Montreal. You will have an great time as an English speaker in Montreal, but you will have a much better experience (and will earn the gratitude and respect of francophones and anglophones alike!) if you start interactions with a few words of French: "pardonnez-moi", "s'il vous plait", "bonjour", "pouvez-vous m'aider" and other basic greetings and phrases will go a long, long way.
posted by third word on a random page at 8:26 PM on October 28, 2014
I'd look for an AirBnB over a hostel in Montreal — the hostels tend to be in the southern/touristy part of town, not so much in the central districts and on the Plateau. If you're after bagels (and you should be!), you'll want to go to either Bagel Saint Viateur or Fairmount Bagel. I realise you might have asked about bagels rather casually, but they're serious business in Montreal, and each family has their favourite. For the record, mine is a Saint Viateur crowd.
One thing on language: it's impossible for someone who hasn't grown up there to understand how divisive language issues are in Montreal. You will have an great time as an English speaker in Montreal, but you will have a much better experience (and will earn the gratitude and respect of francophones and anglophones alike!) if you start interactions with a few words of French: "pardonnez-moi", "s'il vous plait", "bonjour", "pouvez-vous m'aider" and other basic greetings and phrases will go a long, long way.
posted by third word on a random page at 8:26 PM on October 28, 2014
Best answer: I took the train from NYC to Montreal a couple years ago. One thing I was not prepared for was during the customs inspection entering Canada (on the train) we were asked the name and address of the hotel we were staying at. I had the info in an email on my phone, but there was little to no cell reception by the border crossing (and at the time I did not have an international SIM card, so spent the entire trip in airplane mode anyways). So helpful hint: print out this info on advance and bring it along.
posted by reptile at 4:22 AM on October 29, 2014 [2 favorites]
posted by reptile at 4:22 AM on October 29, 2014 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: This is very helpful. Glad I asked. We would like to stay near vegan restaurants so we will aim to be near the plateau. I will likely ask a follow-up question next week.
P.s. I am very serious about bagels.
posted by one more robot at 6:23 AM on October 29, 2014
P.s. I am very serious about bagels.
posted by one more robot at 6:23 AM on October 29, 2014
Best answer: If you're serious about bagels, take the 80/435 bus up Bleury/Park Avenue to Saint-Viateur, walk to your right one block without crossing Park, and you'll be at St-Viateur Bagel, one of the two shrines of bageldom on earth.
The other bagel shrine is about a ten-minute walk from there, on Fairmount, closer to the Main. Montrealers argue endlessly about which is better.
Note that neither Fairmount nor St-Viateur are delis or cafés, but simple bakeries from which you get your bagels to eat somewhere else.
Also note that the Montreal bagel is an ephemeral thing. You have to eat it fresh. After a couple of hours the only thing to do with it is bisect it and toast it.
posted by zadcat at 8:23 AM on October 29, 2014
The other bagel shrine is about a ten-minute walk from there, on Fairmount, closer to the Main. Montrealers argue endlessly about which is better.
Note that neither Fairmount nor St-Viateur are delis or cafés, but simple bakeries from which you get your bagels to eat somewhere else.
Also note that the Montreal bagel is an ephemeral thing. You have to eat it fresh. After a couple of hours the only thing to do with it is bisect it and toast it.
posted by zadcat at 8:23 AM on October 29, 2014
Best answer: The bagel places are open 24/7, and Fairmount is better.
The Quartier des Spectacles usually does some fun outdoor art thing; this is what has been announced for this year.
posted by jeather at 8:42 AM on October 29, 2014
The Quartier des Spectacles usually does some fun outdoor art thing; this is what has been announced for this year.
posted by jeather at 8:42 AM on October 29, 2014
Best answer: If you're vegan, then Fairmount Bagels will be denied you as they are not.
And hello! I'm a vegan who has eaten her way through MTL's goodies for many years --I currently live in Ontario but was a resident of the Townships so we made many trips into the city so I get my ya-ya's out for food and culture--so this is where I'm definitely qualified to help!
Agreed on Aux Vivres, La Panthere Verte, but I no longer give Chu Chai my seal of approval as I think quality and price are no longer what it should be there. But if you're looking for mock meats in an Asian setting, I hear Yuan is pretty great. Some other places I like are Lola Rosa (one of the best veggie burgers I've ever had), Burritoville, La Lumiere du Mile End, and of course, the only vegan bakery in the city, Sophie Sucree. If raw vegan food is your thing, Crudessence is where you want to go but it is a bit pricey.
Air BnB is always good if you're looking to stay on the cheap, but I do love my favorite hotel in the Plateau, Anne Ma Soeur Anne. It's decently priced, each room has a well-stocked kitchenette, and they leave you fresh hot croissants at your door every morning. (If you are vegetarian, this is awesome.)
Quebec City is pretty much a veggie food wasteland, I'm afraid. But I hear there is an all-vegan grocery store opening up in Mile End soon, so if it's already open, grab yourself some stuff to take with you and if you can stash it where you're staying in QC City, you're good to go (for a little while.)
Yes, you can get by in Montreal without French, but after five years in the province, I think it's pretty rude to not at least try. Believe me, it's worth it. Francophones do like it when you attempt even to converse with them a little in their native language.
I hope you have a lovely time! Montreal is one of my favorite cities. I get back there every few months or so. Bonne chance!
posted by Kitteh at 9:44 AM on October 29, 2014
And hello! I'm a vegan who has eaten her way through MTL's goodies for many years --I currently live in Ontario but was a resident of the Townships so we made many trips into the city so I get my ya-ya's out for food and culture--so this is where I'm definitely qualified to help!
Agreed on Aux Vivres, La Panthere Verte, but I no longer give Chu Chai my seal of approval as I think quality and price are no longer what it should be there. But if you're looking for mock meats in an Asian setting, I hear Yuan is pretty great. Some other places I like are Lola Rosa (one of the best veggie burgers I've ever had), Burritoville, La Lumiere du Mile End, and of course, the only vegan bakery in the city, Sophie Sucree. If raw vegan food is your thing, Crudessence is where you want to go but it is a bit pricey.
Air BnB is always good if you're looking to stay on the cheap, but I do love my favorite hotel in the Plateau, Anne Ma Soeur Anne. It's decently priced, each room has a well-stocked kitchenette, and they leave you fresh hot croissants at your door every morning. (If you are vegetarian, this is awesome.)
Quebec City is pretty much a veggie food wasteland, I'm afraid. But I hear there is an all-vegan grocery store opening up in Mile End soon, so if it's already open, grab yourself some stuff to take with you and if you can stash it where you're staying in QC City, you're good to go (for a little while.)
Yes, you can get by in Montreal without French, but after five years in the province, I think it's pretty rude to not at least try. Believe me, it's worth it. Francophones do like it when you attempt even to converse with them a little in their native language.
I hope you have a lovely time! Montreal is one of my favorite cities. I get back there every few months or so. Bonne chance!
posted by Kitteh at 9:44 AM on October 29, 2014
Best answer: Montrealer, born and raised here.
I recommend R.E.A.L Bagel on Queen Mary. It's a short walk from Snowdon metro. Their deli counter is quite good, too, if you wanted some latkes, knishes, or soup or something for lunch. Walk a little more and you'll be at the St. Joseph oratory, which is free to visit and quite beautiful. After that, you could walk around and shop/eat in the Cote-des-Neiges area which has a lot of neat little restaurants and shops. If the weather's not too bad, I recommend taking a walk around Notre-Dame-Des-Neiges cemetery, which is a beautiful, peaceful place in any season.
If you want to go skating there are a lot of options available, but a nice one is at 1000 de la Gauchetiere, which is connected to the underground city so it's a very comfortable way to get your skate on. If you want a more authentic experience a lot of the city's parks set up small rinks and if the local hockey team isn't practicing you can skate at almost any of those.
If you like desserts, definitely check out Pushap which also has very good indian food. (Pretty easy to go veg there if you want)
Definitely check out the Museum of Fine Arts, always something worthwhile there, and other Montreal standards like the botanical gardens, biodome, insectarium, and planetarium. Personally the botanical gardens are a favorite of mine, I never get tired of going there.
Regarding the train, as others have said it's a good idea to bring your own food. What they have on Amtrak/VIA is usually pretty sub-par. Luckily if you're taking the train back, there are several deli type places in Central station where you can buy a better tasting lunch at better prices than the train.
As for the language issue... it's not much of an issue. You can get along in English in Montreal, most of us are bilingual. Still, it never hurts to have a phrase book or access to Google translate. As others have mentioned, making the effort to speak a little french goes a long way with the locals.
posted by signsofrain at 11:14 AM on October 29, 2014
I recommend R.E.A.L Bagel on Queen Mary. It's a short walk from Snowdon metro. Their deli counter is quite good, too, if you wanted some latkes, knishes, or soup or something for lunch. Walk a little more and you'll be at the St. Joseph oratory, which is free to visit and quite beautiful. After that, you could walk around and shop/eat in the Cote-des-Neiges area which has a lot of neat little restaurants and shops. If the weather's not too bad, I recommend taking a walk around Notre-Dame-Des-Neiges cemetery, which is a beautiful, peaceful place in any season.
If you want to go skating there are a lot of options available, but a nice one is at 1000 de la Gauchetiere, which is connected to the underground city so it's a very comfortable way to get your skate on. If you want a more authentic experience a lot of the city's parks set up small rinks and if the local hockey team isn't practicing you can skate at almost any of those.
If you like desserts, definitely check out Pushap which also has very good indian food. (Pretty easy to go veg there if you want)
Definitely check out the Museum of Fine Arts, always something worthwhile there, and other Montreal standards like the botanical gardens, biodome, insectarium, and planetarium. Personally the botanical gardens are a favorite of mine, I never get tired of going there.
Regarding the train, as others have said it's a good idea to bring your own food. What they have on Amtrak/VIA is usually pretty sub-par. Luckily if you're taking the train back, there are several deli type places in Central station where you can buy a better tasting lunch at better prices than the train.
As for the language issue... it's not much of an issue. You can get along in English in Montreal, most of us are bilingual. Still, it never hurts to have a phrase book or access to Google translate. As others have mentioned, making the effort to speak a little french goes a long way with the locals.
posted by signsofrain at 11:14 AM on October 29, 2014
Best answer: For what it's worth, Pushap is exclusively vegetarian, although I think not vegan. At least I'm pretty sure their Indian pastries are heavy on the dairy.
Taking food across the border: remember you can't bring any kind of citrus into the U.S. - they'll make you throw away any oranges etc. you have with you. Coming to Canada your food should not be a problem since it sounds like you won't be bringing any meat.
posted by zadcat at 5:48 PM on October 29, 2014
Taking food across the border: remember you can't bring any kind of citrus into the U.S. - they'll make you throw away any oranges etc. you have with you. Coming to Canada your food should not be a problem since it sounds like you won't be bringing any meat.
posted by zadcat at 5:48 PM on October 29, 2014
Response by poster: Very helpful. I have not traveled much internationally and feel much more confident with metafilter to help me through. Thanks again.
posted by one more robot at 10:10 AM on November 1, 2014
posted by one more robot at 10:10 AM on November 1, 2014
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posted by one more robot at 5:54 PM on October 28, 2014