Night cream for persnickety skin?

October 19, 2014 11:28 AM

My skin, which until recently has been under the delusion that it's still 16, has just realized that it's almost 40 and has decided to get a jump on its midlife crisis. Please help me find a moisturizer that won't break me out.

So the past two years, during the winter, my normally oily, sensitive, breakout-prone skin has become very dry, but still oily by afternoon, sensitive, and breakout-prone. (I wash with Neutrogena unscented liquid most of the time, Cetaphil when I'm super dry or irritated.)

I've got a good SPF daytime moisturizer (Clinique's City Sheer) but I'd like to add a richer moisturizer to my evening routine, since I need more moisture during the winter and shine isn't an issue while I sleep (or when I'm just bumming around on the weekend). But I still break out at the drop of a hat.

Sensitive skinned people of MetaFilter, what works for you?

posted by elizeh to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (15 answers total)

I really like Paula's Choice Resist Anti-Aging Clear Skin Hydrator. It feels like a rich and creamy moisturizer, and it contains both anti-wrinkle and anti-acne ingredients. Also, be sure you're exfoliating enough; it really helps with dry skin. There are some helpful articles here.
posted by neushoorn at 11:40 AM on October 19, 2014

I break out easily with anything oily, but surprisingly, Cetapihl Moisturizing Cream does not do that to me. I also have summer oily skin and winter dryish skin. Gets rid of the dry patches cheaply and quickly.
posted by cecic at 11:52 AM on October 19, 2014

I have similar skin, and just washing my face with water reduces the dryness (yet does not seem to contribute to breakouts). If I still have dry patches I use jojoba oil.

I've also found that using honey as a mask dramatically improved my skin overall and nearly eliminated breakouts. Different things work for everyone of course, but just throwing that out there.
posted by metasarah at 12:41 PM on October 19, 2014

I have super-sensitive skin with rosacea, and unfortunately I don't seem to be able to use any particular moisturizer for long. Given that, the following three have worked for me recently: Cetaphil DailyAdvance Lotion, Olay Active Hydrating Cream - Original, and Kinerase Ultimate Night Moisturizer. The Cetaphil can feel a bit greasy, though.

(My skin seems to react to something in the Paula's Choice products and so I have had to take them out of rotation - see if you can get samples for any new product you want to try, whether Paula's Choice or other brands.)
posted by needled at 12:44 PM on October 19, 2014

I also have very sensitive skin with rosacea and I've been very, very happy with Makeup Artists Choice BellEvolve line. Both the Rosacea Cream and the more pricey Advanced Repair Cream have worked great for me. A friend with cystic acne also loves the Advanced Repair cream as it's super calming. They offer sample sizes so you can see if the products work for you. They also have major sales 25-30% off several times a year. Announced via email and some via Facebook. That's when I stock-up.
posted by quince at 12:55 PM on October 19, 2014

If my skin is really dry and I need extra moisturizer at night, I use Vaseline. I also put Vaseline on before I shower, so that my skin doesn't dry up and break out. Most moisturizers make me break out, so that's all I use. It seems to work.
posted by gt2 at 1:31 PM on October 19, 2014

Pure coconut oil, or pure cocoa butter, or pure shea butter. They all work really well, try one or try them all! You can even use the LouAna coconut oil found in most grocery stores. The best deals on the other two are in bulk on Amazon.

Good luck!
posted by danabanana at 2:14 PM on October 19, 2014

I have very dry, sensitive skin, and last year I started getting hormonal acne once a month. Paula's Choice exfoliants - nightly use of the weakest BHA (1% gel) and once-weekly use of the 8% AHA gel put an end to the acne AND the dry flakiness. (If you've never used AHA, you might want to start with the Resist Daily Smoothing Treatment 5% AHA. It feels a lot gentler.)

I tell you about exfoliants here, because that was really the key to ending the dryness, irritation, and acne for me. As far as moisturizers go, I have **the most** sensitive skin on the planet, I sometimes think. Even Cetaphil and Cerave anger my skin! The only moisturizer I can reliably depend upon not to irritate my face is Dermalogica's Skin Smoothing cream, but it's really overpriced for what it is. If I could find a cheaper sub, or a sub with better ingredients, I'd be so pleased.

I will say that Paula's Choice Resist Super Antioxidant Concentrate Serum with Retinol can sub as a moisturizer for me. The retinol means I have to be very good about sunblock, though.
posted by artemisia at 3:11 PM on October 19, 2014

BTW, if you decide to take metasarah's advice to use honey, do try to find raw honey to use! I was just reading an article in a science journal about how raw honey (but not pasteurized honey) has antibacterial and antifungal properties, which may explain why it's an age-old remedy for troubled skin.
posted by artemisia at 3:15 PM on October 19, 2014

Jojoba oil has saved my oily skin that suddenly decided it was dry and itchy in allergy season!
posted by Youremyworld at 4:07 PM on October 19, 2014

I had mysterious breakouts all the time. I started by making sure all my moisturizers etc. were fresh, so there wouldn't be any chemical change or invisible fungal whatever in there, and that seemed to help a little, sometimes. However:

What really changed my life was learning (through dermatologist testing) that I was allergic to propylene glycol. It's a surprisingly common allergy, and propylene glycol is in a _lot_ of stuff, including some Neutrogena products, I believe. I used to use Neutrogena stuff all the time, but I don't anymore.

Now I use CeraVe moisturizers (no propylene glycol) and they don't seem to irritate me. I still get breakouts sometimes, but not nearly as often, and not in the same places.

Propylene glycol is very common in makeup, by the way. It's a good "wetting" agent, and makes makeup spread well and not look dry. However, for a lot of people, it's just awful for your skin.

It's also a very common ingredient in shampoos, conditioners, and a lot of other things (including cake mixes -- in the supermarket baking aisle and in cupcake boutiques -- and salad dressings).
posted by amtho at 4:51 PM on October 19, 2014

Do you have a Sephora nearby? They want to give you samples, and your question is perfect for visiting them. Go in, toward the skin care section, and when someone asks if you need help, tell them exactly what you said here and ask if they can give you a few samples to try out and see what your skin likes and doesn't like in a no-pressure environment (and then, if you like one of the products, you can price-shop it online!). Their sample policy is spectacular and they really get that everyone's skin is different, so they won't push any particular product on you (at least, they never have with me - they give you the samples, you walk out, easy peasy).
posted by AthenaPolias at 6:24 PM on October 19, 2014

Cetaphil Daily Advance Ultra Hydrating Lotion.

I am a greasebucket with a dry surface. Without this moisturizer I look like one of those applehead carvings they're so crazy about in the Maritimes.

You'd apply it 30 minutes after any topical acne treatment - and/or 15 minutes before.
posted by tel3path at 8:55 AM on October 20, 2014

Skincareaddiction on reddit raves about Cerave PM Facial Moisturizing Lotion and it has loads of lipids for your skin which will make it plump and wonderful! It's pretty cheap and you can get it at the drugstore. Give it a go! :)
posted by dinosaurprincess at 2:29 PM on October 20, 2014

I've been watching this because I'm also in search of a nighttime moisturizer that won't break me out. It sounds like we have similar skin.

Word of warning: unfortunately, while Cerave PM makes my face insanely, luxuriously smooth and hydrated, it causes me to break out a bit. I'm just using it around my eyes right now.

Dry then oily says to me that your face wash might be too harsh. I enthusiastically recommend the Cerave hydrating (NOT foaming) face cleanser. This alone could help a lot with the dryness.

(Hydroxy acids are worth considering if you are having trouble with breakouts and/or texture/flakiness. BHA in particular can help with the breakouts. I use Paula's Choice BHA liquid on a daily basis, and the BHA foam whenever a real breakout is threatening. This usually disappears all the little, threatening bumps overnight. I use an AHA gel - along with a washcloth to gently exfoliate the next morning - every once in a while if things get flaky, or if my face is getting a bit rough or dull looking. Cerave cleanser plus BHA/AHA have really transformed my skin.)

Good luck.
posted by moira at 8:32 PM on October 20, 2014