Where should I meander on the back of a donkey for an undetermined period of time?
November 29, 2010 4:50 AM   Subscribe

What advice do you have for an ignorant traveler soloing for an extended period of time, on donkey-back?

I'm a late twenties American male. I have it in my head that I might want to go on a long, wandering sort of a trip on the back of a donkey. I won't have much on me as far as supplies go.. Maybe a few days food and water at any point, a tent, a guitar, and a knife. I can't do a desert because my donkey will need to eat... As much as I would love to do Mongolia, I worry that I'd go weeks without seeing anyone else, and I'd probably starve to death :P

I'd really like to do as much off-road traveling as possible, which is one of the reasons Mongolia attracts me.. I'm fairly ignorant, as London is the only place outside of the US that I've ever been to. So I don't know which countries are dangerous, which ones are just full of freeways and cities, etc.

I'm really fairly open to anything.. Good advice would ideally say something like "wow you should go to Greece cause the food is just lying on the ground over there and they have no roads and the sun always shines.." Heh..

Oh, and I plan on buying my donkey when I get to the first country, not taking him from America.. Although I probably will want to bring him back home with me after the trip :P

Books about this type of travel, or good books about donkeys are welcome too!

Thanks in advance :)
posted by Glendale to Travel & Transportation (21 answers total) 4 users marked this as a favorite
 
Setting aside my reservations about this whole project -- how about the Camino de Santiago de Compostela? Seems to be a good half-way point between a bandit-infested wilderness with no vets for miles, and a bunch of cities connected by motorways.

It's been done before on donkey back.
posted by tavegyl at 5:05 AM on November 29, 2010


I would think that if you wanted to purchase the animal from the country in which you are planning to travel, you should pick one where donkeys are commonly used. Donkeys are very common in South Asia, although one usually sees them pulling carts rather than with a rider. They are also notoriously stubborn. You say you've grown up on a farm, so I'm not concerned with your ability to care for a donkey, but would you be able to get it to do what you want? Really, donkeys and camels both have a reputation for being ornery. So that's something to consider.

Another thing to consider would be language. If you're looking to wander the countryside in countries where English is not widely spoken, then you need to thin about how you're going to handle communication.

Honestly, it sounds like you have a lot of preparatory thinking and research to do before you can begin to do something like this successfully. Sounds like it would end up being a lot of fun, though.
posted by bardophile at 5:08 AM on November 29, 2010


For New Zealand, you would want to read up on the information on the Department of Conservation website. Bear in mind that you will need to book in advance to use the most popular tracks. They have information on taking horses onto conservation land here.

I suspect that most farmers wouldn't mind you crossing their land, as long as you asked them first.

I would strongly suggest following tracks and paying attention to safety information. Just wandering off on your own is a really good way to get into trouble. I'm sure others will have more knowledge than me.
posted by Infinite Jest at 5:12 AM on November 29, 2010


Tim Moore has a book I haven't read called Spanish Steps: Travels With My Donkey that would be worth reading I imagine.
posted by backwards guitar at 5:13 AM on November 29, 2010


Maybe instead of a donkey you could get a motorcycle. Motorcycles can be temperamental, but much less so than an animal.

Decide where you want to go. Learn the language of that place. While you're learning the language fix up an old beater motorcycle. Then you could either sell the bike to finance part of your trip or take it with you when you go. That way you'll have the knowledge to take care of one while you're on your journey.
posted by TooFewShoes at 5:17 AM on November 29, 2010


Best answer: A few years ago National Geographic had a big article about a guy who traveled down through much of Mexico on a (I think) mule. I can't find it easily on the website, but if you can dig it up I think you'll find a lot of useful information in it about the practicalities of that kind of trip.

And certainly there are other people who take long rides on horses and horse-relatives and who could answer your question with some degree of knowledge.

The common theme in a lot of these answers, however, is going to be that you need to learn about donkey care, training, and handling now, before you arrive some other country. Donkeys are tough, but they are also famously stubborn (and not nearly as comfortable to ride as a horse or mule). I suspect that this is a trip that will cost more than you think it will, but I could be wrong about that.
posted by Forktine at 5:25 AM on November 29, 2010


You talk about going outside the US, but is that an integral part of your plan? If not, you might consider doing a "Going West" type of ride, using the trails that people used during the migration to the west coast. That way, if you find yourself in a jam, at least there will not be a language barrier, and even if you skip the roads you'll never be too far from civilization. The Horse and Mule Trail Guide website seems to be a good resource for trails and information about how to do this type of trip. Even if you decide to go outside the US, it has links to information about saddles, what to pack, insurance you might want to carry, and so on.
posted by Houstonian at 5:36 AM on November 29, 2010


Read Eight Feet in the Andes (woman, child, donkey) and in Ethiopia with a Mule (that) by Dervla Murphy for the "been there done that" perspective?
posted by runincircles at 5:38 AM on November 29, 2010


Do you have much experience with donkeys(/horses/mules), both riding and taking care of? If you don't, this is something you'll want to address pronto; they're a lot more than a furry motorbike!

You'll need to think about what your donkey's going to eat and drink, especially if it'll be working hard (by carrying you around). You don't plan to carry much with you, only a few days of food and water - is that also going to be food and water for the donkey? Because that's going to be heavy. He'll need more than just whatever grass he can eat while you're resting, and you'll also need to familiarise yourself with the stuff that he shouldn't be eating (ragwort, for example, is very common in most of Europe and some of Asia, but is very poisonous to horses and donkeys - and weirdly, they're more likely to eat it when it's dead).

You'll need to think about what kind of weather conditions you're happy to deal with, especially if you plan to stay in a tent (which I'm guessing you won't be sharing with the donkey). Do you want to stay close enough to towns and villages that you might be able to arrange a stable for the donkey for a few days?

You'll also need to think about what kind of medical care you're likely to need (both you and the donkey), especially if wherever you're going is going to take you far away from populated areas. If you're three days out from civilisation and the donkey goes lame, you're in trouble. Also, how well placed will you be to evaluate whether the donkey's getting ill?

You'll need to work out not only where you're going to get the donkey, but how much time you've got to evaluate whether the donkey's going to work out for you first. Donkeys like hanging around with other donkeys; not all of them are going to take too well to being whisked off on their own, to somewhere they don't know. A donkey that has just been sitting around in a field is not going to be anywhere near fit enough to carry you on a months-long tour around the country, and getting it fit will take time. And lots of donkey owners and breeders in places like New Zealand will be very reluctant to sell you a donkey unless they're confident you can take care of it properly; it's not going to be a case of just turning up with the cash.

You'll need to work out what you're going to do with the donkey while you're sleeping, sightseeing around places you can't get to on donkeyback, playing guitar, etc. How much donkey equipment will you need to carry with you to make sure you can, eg, tether the donkey to graze. You plus provisions plus equipment is going to end up quite a heavy burden to carry; donkeys are tough, but you still might need a bigger donkey.

I know you told a previous commenter that your question had nothing to do with caring for the donkey, but if your question is indeed how to make this plan a reality, it's impossible not to make it about caring for the donkey. The people cautioning you about that aren't trying to ruin your plan; they're trying to make sure your plan doesn't end up going hideously wrong.
posted by Catseye at 5:44 AM on November 29, 2010 [1 favorite]


All of the people I know who go off on long treks don't ride the donkey/camel/mule most of the time, it's just there for schlepping stuff. Since you probably don't know anything about the specifics of how to choose a good donkey, you'll need a local contact.

You might want to read Paula Constant's blog about walking across the Sahara for reference. Different animal (she used camels), but she runs into a lot of the same issues you might encounter. Like you, she had no expedition or adventure travel experience, and this bit is important - "The walk took over three years to plan and save for."
posted by HopperFan at 6:03 AM on November 29, 2010


Response by poster: tavegyl, thanks for the post. It was good to read about someone else's adventures on on donkey-back :) The Camino de Santiago is exactly the kind of thing I'm looking for, and I'm excited to scour that page this evening, when I have more time.

bardophile, you're right, I have a lot of preparation ahead of me for this trip. As "quixotic" as I can be, I always have a plan.. An unreasonable plan, yes, but luckily I'm good at going with the flow.

TooFewShoes, I started thinking about this trip a few years ago as a motorcycle ride from Baja, Mexico up to Alaska. I have a number of reasons for changing my mind in the past couple years to a donkey. Trust me, I've thought about a bike, and I'd rather have the experience of riding an animal.. But thank you for the idea!

Forktine, that link is RICH with information! Thanks so much!! I'll spend some time and try to dig that National Geo article up, too -- thanks!

Houstonian, I have seen much of America already, though I can't say I've seen it all. I feel like I need the solitude that leaving this country can provide me.. Thanks for the link though, I'll keep an open mind about the US.

runincircles, thanks for the books, I'll check into them!

Catseye, you're right, I do have a lot to learn when it comes to donkeys. I've definitely spent enough time around farm animals and horses in my life that I'm probably a little over-confident about the whole situation. I do plan to pick my best friend's father's brain quite a bit, as he's a farrier and has to deal with donkeys occasionally, and also knows other people with donkeys. As aloof as my original post sounds, I'll be doing the research before I take on this adventure. And holy crap, Mammoth Donkeys?? Who knew? Not for me though..
posted by Glendale at 6:19 AM on November 29, 2010


You say you grew up on a farm, but have you ever ridden a donkey for an extended period of time? I can't imagine why anyone would ever want to do that. Also, I know a lot of people have referenced the Camino de Santiago in Spain, but PLEASE do not try to do that walking with a donkey. I ran into a couple of people with donkeys when I walked across Spain last year and they were the laughingstocks of the trail. "Oh, you saw the donkey at 9 am by the river? I saw him at 3 pm by the river!" The donkeys looked miserable, the owners looked miserable, and I was miserable every time I had to wait behind a donkey on a particularly narrow stretch.

Basically I'm not sure why you would want to include an animal when it's so much easier to walk sans donkey. People easily walk long distances with food, water, a tent, and a guitar. Search for long-distance walking or trekking. For international treks I've found the best repository of articles in British newspapers like the Guardian.

If the riding experience is non-negotiable, there are many commercial equestrian tour operators with varying degrees of supervision.
posted by acidic at 6:24 AM on November 29, 2010


I have no practical advice at all. But you should read Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes (1879) by Robert Louis Stevenson.

wikipedia
amazon
e-text
posted by DarkForest at 6:49 AM on November 29, 2010


Bicycling touring may be analogous. www.crazyguyonabike.com is a good compendium of travelogues and includes a lot of useful packing lists and route suggestions. Also, bicycles are far easier to ride and care for than donkeys (which are evil) but they still allow you to smell the flowers and enjoy the journey.
posted by ChrisHartley at 7:15 AM on November 29, 2010


Is there a particular reason you want to travel by donkey as opposed to horse? I think that will have a greater chance of success for someone with limited experience. More comfortable, more reliable, less stubborn. If you do opt for the donkey, please call your travel book "Out on My Ass".
posted by East Manitoba Regional Junior Kabaddi Champion '94 at 7:18 AM on November 29, 2010


Best answer: I totally recommend you go to Mongolia. It's big and gorgeous and cheap and you can find plenty of solitude there. However, in the off chance you are able to find a donkey, especially one for sale, anywhere in Mongolia and then somehow manage to get on it and plod off across the steppe, besides the undeniably gorgeous scenery and the wonderful feeling of seeing no fences or roads or power lines or buildings in any direction as far as the horizon, your days will be filled with the laughter of the wee children as they blow past you on their horses, bareback, and are overcome at the sight of your Don Quixote-ish ass plodding along at whatever donkey speed is these days.

In many parts of Mongolia, even some that look empty to you, it's really hard to not see anyone for weeks or, heaven forbid, get lost. Mongol herdsmen can look at a tiny tiny speck way off on the horizon, one you wouldn't have noticed, and be all, "Hey, it's Jimbob! When's he planning to return my weed whacker?" or the Mongolian equivalent. By the time you come across some family's ger, they'll have had a pot roast on waiting for you since dawn. That's really what Mongolia feels like. Just about any family out there will feed you, but it's nice to give them some cash for it.

But it's not a donkey country. Try a horse. If you do try a horse, hire a guide to come with you or learn a LOT about Mongolian horses before you set off on your own. Mongolian horses feed themselves, but they deserve to have their saddles on right. Motorcycle should be pretty easy to come by as well. Also, get a GPS.
posted by thirteenkiller at 7:23 AM on November 29, 2010 [4 favorites]


A satellite phone might be useful.
posted by East Manitoba Regional Junior Kabaddi Champion '94 at 8:29 AM on November 29, 2010


Best answer: I think the biggest problem that you may run into is that a single typical-sized donkey is not an appropriate long-distance beast of burden for an adult male and the amount of equipment it would require for a weeks-long trek. Here's a chart indicating donkey load-bearing capacities: you will note that to get a donkey who can safely carry 200+ lbs for any significant distance, you are well into mammoth donkey territory (a 56" donkey is a 14 hand pony). In fact, donkeys have basically the same load-bearing capacity as a similarly sized horse. If you wouldn't think of packing yourself and a month's worth of gear onto an 11-hand child's pony, you similarly shouldn't do so with a typical 44" donkey.

This is why if you read about donkey trekking, it's generally referring to using the donk to carry your stuff, not your person:

“For an adult to ride a donkey is cruel,” I was told. “He is there to carry luggage or children only.”

You could possibly get around this by travelling with 2 donkeys, including a relatively large one to carry your person, or by using mules, which are much easier to find in large, appropriate-for-adult-riding sizes. For example, note that both the memoirs cited by runincircles are actually mule treks.

Just because you may see pictures of incredibly overburdened donkeys in the souks of Morocco or have read fictional tales of corpulent squiers or friars travelling cross-country on their sturdy little donks doesn't mean its a humane thing to do.
posted by SomeTrickPony at 8:40 AM on November 29, 2010 [5 favorites]


Best answer: I'm fairly ignorant, as London is the only place outside of the US that I've ever been to. So I don't know which countries are dangerous, which ones are just full of freeways and cities, etc.

It sounds like you need to start with a geography lesson.

There are lots of guidebooks and travelogues, issues of National Geographic, documentaries, blogs, and forums out there which will give you an idea of the above concerns.

This is a great site to get started, though it's geared towards backpackers and not donkeys specifically. But it'll give you a general sense of what countries are interesting to travel in, what countries lack the infrastructure that makes traveling independently worthwhile, etc.

From there, I agree with others who've said that you should learn which parts of the world still use donkeys. You'll probably also need to learn more about how the whole thing works. Where will you obtain your donkey? Are there local laws about pack animals and their care and feeding? Where will you be able to bed down for the night? How much distance do you want to cover? How will you speak to the sorts of people who could sell you a donkey? What happens when you want to see or do something off the road (it seems to me that even eating in a restaurant would be an obstacle, let alone checking out the local cathedral or a popular tourist site) What will you do with all that donkey shit?

I saw lots of donkeys and burros in Peru, for what it's worth. Peru's Sacred Valley, around Cuzco, would probably be about on the scope you'd want, and (with a lot of caveats) it's a safe country. Also beautiful. And Spanish is spoken there, which is a hell of a lot easier to learn than Arabic or Tamil or Khmer.
posted by Sara C. at 9:40 AM on November 29, 2010


Re: the donkey.

I'm all for people having crazy adventures, possibly risking life and limb for a memorable travel experience. Have at it. However, I'm a little hung up on the donkey thing (as are others above - I think it bears repeating). I get the sense (although you mention that you are very familiar with the farm animals) that you don't realize that you will likely kill said donkey with this little scheme of yours.

1. You don't meander long distances with equipment if you are full grown, normal size dude on a normal size donkey. Most donkeys are small and are for carrying your crap, or pulling carts, not carrying your bulk long distances. This is what mules are for.

2. And what happens to your fuzzy little (now broken) friend when you head home? It's not like you're planning on shipping him home to retire him in your pasture and live a life of leisure, amiright?

3. See this:

Go. Have fun. Leave the burro out of it.
posted by East Siberian patchbelly wrangler at 10:44 AM on November 29, 2010 [4 favorites]


Best answer: I love donkeys. I have ridden many donkeys. I even had a job where I got paid to ride donkeys. But I would never take one on a cross-country trek unless the country was the size of Monaco.

They are actually quite strong, and could probably carry you quite a ways provided that you had a second to carry your stuff and that you're under 200lbs. But they are not particularly comfortable. They bounce you around like you wouldn't believe and a 40 minute ride is more than enough to give you a sore ass (no pun intended) for days if you're not used to them.

A well trained donkey is pretty easy to control, but they are creatures of habit - I have seen many a donkey wander off in unexpected directions simply because it recognized the terrain and last time it went that way.

I've also seen a few references above for mules - do not take a mule unless you are a trained horse-person. Donkeys are relatively sedate in the grand scheme of animals but mules have a mind of their own and the strength and determination to make things happen.

Also, there are a lot of things that can go wrong on an unguided trek, and a lot countries won't even allow you to take one. While a pilgrimage trail might get around this, why not consider a guided trek somewhere with someone who knows what they are doing.
posted by scrute at 8:18 PM on November 29, 2010


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