chevy v8 remanufactured

February 24, 2005 3:34 PM

does anyone have any suggestions for finding a remanufactured chevy v-8 small block (on the web or otherwise) (early 70s)? and what should one expect to pay to have a shop deinstall a blown one and install the remanufactured engine?

thanks in advance.

posted by specialk420 to Travel & Transportation (6 answers total)

First, decide if you want a complete engine, or a "short block" without carburetor, starter, exhaust manifolds, etc. (My 'etc.' is because I don't remember clearly what the short block lacks.)

A Google search on "rebuilt engine" returns over 700,00 results. I know nothing useful about those; I always got junkyard engines.

R&R costs depend on what sort of place you go to for the swap. I had pretty good luck at a junkyard that I had a good relationship with. As I recall, he charged me a couple hundred to take out a 307 and install a 350 I got elsewhere. If you go to a dedicated repair place, it would be more.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 3:59 PM on February 24, 2005

take your pick.
posted by nj_subgenius at 5:48 PM on February 24, 2005

Check your local phone book for engine machine shops or racing shops. They can generally hook up you up pretty quickly, and they're usually groovy guys to deal with.

The junkyard option is a good if you know them, have the ability to get the engine out, transported and back in and are a good enough mechanic to be able to look at a block and see if anything is obviously wrong. Remember that there are no returns at junkyards.
posted by dejah420 at 6:43 PM on February 24, 2005

Are you looking to upgrade power? In MO, there's a sunset law - after 25 years, a car no longer has to have its smog equipment nor do a smog test, so a car built from 70-79, now, (pre-1970 had no smog) can be upgraded. Your best bet, no matter what the engine in the car (unless you have a 400 - that engine is worth $$$ for its crank alone), is to get a reman 350. A "short block" would have the heads down to the oil pan. If you can get it, get an engine with "441" heads - they're the best-flowing stock cast-iron heads.

If you're just looking to get your beater running again, get a junkyard engine. 400-500, tops, should get you something that runs, and if they swap in the top-end parts from your dead engine, figure on 10-12 shop hours- whatever the going rate is in your area. Hell, I'm an amateur, and I could likely swap it in 10 hours. I'd look for a shop run by guys around 30, who are old enough to be experienced, but young enough to really want to do it right. Look for a shop that's in an established building, but not too greasy...and not one which is named after the owner.
posted by notsnot at 8:43 PM on February 24, 2005

notsnot, why "not one which is named after the owner"? I'd thing those guys would maybe care a little more.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 4:47 AM on February 25, 2005

thanks all. good suggestions. - sounds like you've gotten your hands greasy more than once notsnot... :)
posted by specialk420 at 6:36 AM on February 25, 2005