Drafty Winter Workshop
October 16, 2009 9:05 AM
What's the best way to go about heating a 500sf workshop w/ 16ft ceilings in NYC this winter? Problem: only 120w electricity available.
This workshop is located in a drafty old building, right next to the river, and has no heater of any kind. Most of the other workshops on the floor are heated, but not the one to the left, and all the doors in the building are often left wide open for people to come in and out. I saw some good portable electric heaters online at Northern Tool for about $120, but they require 240w. Any ideas on how to proceed smartly and cheaply? Electricity is included in the rent, and we'll be weatherproofing the window.
This workshop is located in a drafty old building, right next to the river, and has no heater of any kind. Most of the other workshops on the floor are heated, but not the one to the left, and all the doors in the building are often left wide open for people to come in and out. I saw some good portable electric heaters online at Northern Tool for about $120, but they require 240w. Any ideas on how to proceed smartly and cheaply? Electricity is included in the rent, and we'll be weatherproofing the window.
120 volts, or 120 watts...? There's a bit if a difference there.
posted by Geckwoistmeinauto at 9:13 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by Geckwoistmeinauto at 9:13 AM on October 16, 2009
If you're dealing with a lot of air circulation from open doors then radiant heat is the only thing that will help. Radiant heat is like standing in direct sun on a cold day; the side of you facing the sun/heater is warm, and the side facing away is cold. It's not great, but it's much better than nothing. Commonly used in auto shops, industrial bldgs, etc. That said, you need to worry about more than voltage here. Lower-voltage heaters (assuming you can find them) will mean higher amperage. How many circuits, at what amp ratings (check the breakers) are available in this section of the building?
posted by jon1270 at 9:20 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by jon1270 at 9:20 AM on October 16, 2009
Oh, for goodness' sake. Yes, volts, volts.
posted by thegreatfleecircus at 9:22 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by thegreatfleecircus at 9:22 AM on October 16, 2009
Assuming you have a lot of amperage, just stick a couple of little forced-air room heaters on different circuits. One problem is that hot air is going to head for the high ceiling, so you have to heat the whole top half first; it seems counter-intuitive, but a ceiling fan would actually make you warmer at floor level.
posted by nicwolff at 9:56 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by nicwolff at 9:56 AM on October 16, 2009
I've had this problem in a studio in the past. A regular radiator-type electric heater, placed directly under a ceiling fan, was more than enough for a similarly sized room.
posted by deadmessenger at 10:10 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by deadmessenger at 10:10 AM on October 16, 2009
You might want to look at a kerosene heater like this one, especially since your area is drafty (perfect for kerosene heaters).
posted by jdfan at 10:24 AM on October 16, 2009
posted by jdfan at 10:24 AM on October 16, 2009
My experience...
Oil-filled radiator-type heaters take awhile to heat up the space, but a timer (some come with timer) helps heat the space before you arrive. They are efficient and very quiet, if that's a concern.
Here's a formula to find the needed BTUs for a space:
- Calculate the vol of the space to be heated by multiplying sq ft by height.
- Multiply that number by 4 if your insulation is poor, 3 if average, or 2 if it's good.
That number is the BTU you'll need.
You'd probably need a couple of deLonghi-style heaters to make it work your 8,000 sq ft.
Be careful of the fuel-type heaters like propane & kerosene if you work with combustables (paint, turps, gasoline, etc) in the shop.
I haven't had much luck with radiant heaters, every move...I'm out of the heat zone.
Maybe great if you're sitting at a desk, tho.
posted by artdrectr at 12:43 PM on October 16, 2009
Oil-filled radiator-type heaters take awhile to heat up the space, but a timer (some come with timer) helps heat the space before you arrive. They are efficient and very quiet, if that's a concern.
Here's a formula to find the needed BTUs for a space:
- Calculate the vol of the space to be heated by multiplying sq ft by height.
- Multiply that number by 4 if your insulation is poor, 3 if average, or 2 if it's good.
That number is the BTU you'll need.
You'd probably need a couple of deLonghi-style heaters to make it work your 8,000 sq ft.
Be careful of the fuel-type heaters like propane & kerosene if you work with combustables (paint, turps, gasoline, etc) in the shop.
I haven't had much luck with radiant heaters, every move...I'm out of the heat zone.
Maybe great if you're sitting at a desk, tho.
posted by artdrectr at 12:43 PM on October 16, 2009
I have a similar shop and a propane torch heater warms the place up well. As I recall it takes a good half hour to get the whole place warmed up but in the immediate vicinity of the torch it is toasty.
posted by mearls at 4:52 PM on October 16, 2009
posted by mearls at 4:52 PM on October 16, 2009
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one popular manufacturer of electrically heated clothing
posted by de void at 9:10 AM on October 16, 2009