What's wrong with my Russian tortoise?
July 4, 2009 3:27 PM
What's wrong with my Russian tortoise?
I picked up Bowser, my new Russian tortoise, this weekend. He was the most active of the lot, and his caretaker said he had quite the appetite as well. Since he got home he's been rather inactive, except when taken outside, and hasn't eaten or drank at all. I've noticed that this is semi-normal while they're still stressed out, but I'm wondering if this might not be more.
I also noticed skin peeling not just around the neck/legs near the shell, but on the face as well. In fact, it looks as if a whole scale (between the eye and the nose) on his face is about to peel off. I know that a tortoise is money and time, much like every other animal, and I already have a vet appointment scheduled for him upon our return home (keeping him in his cage at a friends this weekend, as the closest dealer is several hours away). I also know that I very much want this turtle to survive, and if he's going to require extensive care I would like to return him to his caretaker and point out the problem, as I am sure she would be more than happy (and have better resources) to get any problems he has taken care of.
Any tortoise owners have similar experiences?
I picked up Bowser, my new Russian tortoise, this weekend. He was the most active of the lot, and his caretaker said he had quite the appetite as well. Since he got home he's been rather inactive, except when taken outside, and hasn't eaten or drank at all. I've noticed that this is semi-normal while they're still stressed out, but I'm wondering if this might not be more.
I also noticed skin peeling not just around the neck/legs near the shell, but on the face as well. In fact, it looks as if a whole scale (between the eye and the nose) on his face is about to peel off. I know that a tortoise is money and time, much like every other animal, and I already have a vet appointment scheduled for him upon our return home (keeping him in his cage at a friends this weekend, as the closest dealer is several hours away). I also know that I very much want this turtle to survive, and if he's going to require extensive care I would like to return him to his caretaker and point out the problem, as I am sure she would be more than happy (and have better resources) to get any problems he has taken care of.
Any tortoise owners have similar experiences?
i've had some success diagnosing issues with my red eared sliders at happy turtle. have you looked over there?
posted by lester at 5:41 PM on July 4, 2009
posted by lester at 5:41 PM on July 4, 2009
Is he getting sun? I have this half-assed idea that regular sun exposure is very necessary for tortoises and turtles.
If I were you I'd just call your veterinarian.
posted by Neofelis at 6:02 PM on July 4, 2009
If I were you I'd just call your veterinarian.
posted by Neofelis at 6:02 PM on July 4, 2009
Tortoises shed their skin, like any other reptile. If your tortoise is being kept with the right temperature gradation and humidity, I would say he is just stressed at the moment.
posted by oneirodynia at 8:48 PM on July 4, 2009
posted by oneirodynia at 8:48 PM on July 4, 2009
Calcium-to-phophorus ratio in the feed causing metabolic problems? The incorrect kind of UV light causing problems with vitamin D?
I took care of a red-eared slider; people on a turtle board would have more specific insight.
posted by aquafortis at 8:54 PM on July 4, 2009
I took care of a red-eared slider; people on a turtle board would have more specific insight.
posted by aquafortis at 8:54 PM on July 4, 2009
My initial thoughts with such rapid behavior changes are that the tort is experiencing a)stress from the move and/or b)a difference in temperature/light. Reptiles are very sensitive to heat and light.
The Russian Tortoise Website says:
The pen should have a cool end with the temps in the low 70's and a basking spot at 90-95°F. Night time temperature drops are needed. Mine do well with temps that drop down into the 60's at night. If they are kept too cool they can't digest their food. Too warm and they stop eating and aestivate (sort of like suspended animation).
The site also gives their very specific humidity and lighting requirements (and a nice, inexpensive enclosure setup).
posted by caroljean63 at 9:07 PM on July 4, 2009
The Russian Tortoise Website says:
The pen should have a cool end with the temps in the low 70's and a basking spot at 90-95°F. Night time temperature drops are needed. Mine do well with temps that drop down into the 60's at night. If they are kept too cool they can't digest their food. Too warm and they stop eating and aestivate (sort of like suspended animation).
The site also gives their very specific humidity and lighting requirements (and a nice, inexpensive enclosure setup).
posted by caroljean63 at 9:07 PM on July 4, 2009
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posted by Solomon at 3:50 PM on July 4, 2009