Advice for buying a bike in NYC.

August 3, 2006 8:00 AM

Advice for buying a bike in NYC.

I'm planning on buying a bike soon, and I have a few questions:

1. Can anyone recommend a good bike shop, preferrably on the West Side of Manhattan?

2. What kind of bike should I look for (I will be riding almost exclusively in the city)?

3. How much can I expect to spend on a good bike?

4. Are there good collapsable bike out on the market?

5. What are some basic safety tips I need to know about riding in Manhattan (and yes, I already know that avoiding cars is a good idea).

Thanks!

posted by perelman to Sports, Hobbies, & Recreation (15 answers total)

Pretty much all you need to know about NYC cycling is here.
posted by ofthestrait at 8:25 AM on August 3, 2006

1. Okay, here we go. I've shopped for bikes and parts at Bicycle Renaissance, Bicycle Habitat, and Frank's Bikes.

I don't have much of a memory of Renaissance, but it's on the West Side. Bicycle Habitat was friendly, but a bit overwhelming and down on Lafayette; they have a really good reputation from what I hear. Frank's was great in terms on friendliness, but it's down on the way Lower East Side on Grand Street, and is a tiny cramped place. Still, it may be worth a trip because they do sell Dahon bikes, which are the best-known folding bikes on the market, as far as I can tell.

2. What would be awesome, I think, is something like a Surly Steamroller. One gear, indestructible, and with more of an upright geometry than a race bike or track bike. It would be comfortable, give you visibility, and still be really comfortable to ride quickly with a lot less effort than a MTB or folder. Going faster in the city is better, counterintuitively, because you'll be more comfortable going faster around cars rather than slower. I promise. The Surly would also give you cool points, but that's beside the point. They're just great bikes, and will be a hell of a lot more fun to ride than a folder. Surly dealers in NYC are here; Bicycle Habitat is one of their preferred dealers. Good people, they are. I would recommend against a "city bike" or "hybrid." They are mixes of road and mountain bikes, but are really just bikes that don't do two things well.

3. Expect to spend at least $500, and more like $800. It's worth every penny, because a real bike will last you for years with proper care and maintenance, as well as be a lot more comfortable and safe than a cheap POS bike. If you really want to go cheaper, cruise Craigslist for used bikes; you can find some great deals.

4. Dahons, see above, but I wouldn't get one unless you're really cramped for space.

5. You are entitled to a lane if there is no bike lane. If you feel uncomfortable, assert yourself, and most cars will respect that. If one doesn't, let them pass. There is no shame in that. Wear a helmet. Obey traffic laws. Stay far enough away from parked cars that you don't get doored. Know directions well.
posted by The Michael The at 8:37 AM on August 3, 2006 [1 favorite]

it would be helpful if you could provide more information. Specifically -- why are you buying a bike? Planning to commute to work and use it as an alternative to the bus and subway? TdF follower who wants a workout machine?

Also, what's your budget? Like cars, there are various 'good bikes' in various usage and price categories. It sounds like, from your initial set of questions, you're planning on using it as primary urban transportation, so using some wild-ass assumption, my preliminary answers are

1) I'll have to defer to someone living in New York.

2) Hybrid or singlespeed road bike, if your budget is less than $600. Hybrids are bikes with a mountain bike style, upright posture but with components aimed at street riding (thin smooth tires, lighter tubing, etc.). Avoid suspension forks on hybrids. Get a rack and bungee a milk crate to it if you're planning on using it for errands and grocery shopping.

Since Manhattan is generally flat, singlespeed bikes are a practical choice. You could go with fixed gear if you're willing to deal with a slightly steeper learning curve and don't have any knee problems.

3) A decent hybrid that can withstand four to five years of day-in, day-out urban commuting will start at $400. You can get a pretty nice, brand-new singlespeed road bike for about $500.

4) I don't own one myself, but I've heard decent opinions about Dahon and Bike Fridays.

5) Take advantage of bike lanes, but don't let your guard down with them. Bike lanes do not have a magical forcefield that prevents pedestrians and car doors from intruding into the space. The lane gives you a slight safety cushion from auto traffic, but does nothing for other accident vectors. Invest in good locks. Don't ride on the sidewalk. Stay on the street and assert your presence. That means be visible. That means taking a lane from the cars when you have to. Remember that drivers do not want to hit anyone, so they won't hit you just because you're in the way. They'll hit you because they forget where you are or don't expect you to be where you are.

Also, keep in mind that even on busy Manhattan streets, the apparent chaos actually belies very steady and specific patterns. Drivers are aggressive but extremely predictable. You need to be similarly predictable. Plan ahead and signal early. Don't surprise drivers and they won't surprise you with a collision.
posted by bl1nk at 8:40 AM on August 3, 2006

all the above advice is good.

my summary: wear a helmet, even if you feel queer. get a fat chain. make sure you have good tires. you may feel better with fat tires.
posted by elsar at 8:40 AM on August 3, 2006

I've been banging up the grundle real good since I started bike commuting downtown. The streets are a sloppy mess of pits and mounds and dips and dead pigeons. In retrospect I wish I had gotten some kind of suspension (I bought a dahon helios) to smooth the ride somewhat.
posted by lovejones at 9:09 AM on August 3, 2006

Response by poster: Thanks so much for all the excellent advice already.

Some followup information:

Price Range: Considering the fact that I live in Manahttan and don't own a car (why anyone does is still a mystery to me, but that's another post), I'm willing and able to spend decent money for a good bike.

Uses: Mostly communting, but some recreational/exercise usage as well. I don't expect to be off roading or taking the bike out of town much.

Area: A single speed might not be ideal for me since I live in upstate manhattan (i.e. inwood), and it's pretty steep up here. But I probably don't need a 25 gear super-slick roadster thing.

And another question: Is membership with TA really worth it? And how do the merchant discounts work?

Thanks!
posted by perelman at 9:30 AM on August 3, 2006

If you're not going to be off roading, and not racing, a lower-end road bike or cyclocross bike will do ya'.

A Surly Cross-Check or any sort of low-end roadie (Trek 1000, Specialized Allez, Bianchi Brava, etc) would be nice. Something more touring-oriented may work, too; that would allow you to mount panniers if you really wanted.
posted by The Michael The at 9:40 AM on August 3, 2006

TA membership gets you 5-10 percent off at local bike shops (most within the city.) I don't know exactly how it works, because I'm not a member, but if you're buying a new bike then some of the shops on the list offer discounts on bikes, which means your membership probably pays for itself pretty quick.

Personally, I bought a bike from greatusedbikes.com. The guy who runs it is really cool and will deliver your bike to your apt on a Sunday. I got a nice 10-speed for 200 bucks from there about a month ago and I'm loving it. I would definitely recommend it.
posted by ofthestrait at 10:23 AM on August 3, 2006

additional bit of advice re: buying used versus new. Don't buy a bike that you can't test ride first. Feel free to scan Craigslist and Ebay and the like, but buying bike or frames, sight unseen from some guy in upstate is an exercise best left for aficionados who can figure out how a bike feels just by looking at geometry numbers (and, dude, uptown Manhattan not upstate)

with that said, the general rule of thumb for approximate road frame sizing is 2/3ds your inseam. 34" inseam is a 22" or a 57cm frame. That might help you narrow your searches online, and it doesn't apply for hybrid or mountain bike frames*

Regardless, before agreeing to buy a bike, test it, see how it feels going uphill and downhill, how it handles potholes and how it feels on accelerating and braking. If it has dropped road bike handlebars, ride in all of the bar positions (hands on the brake hoods, hand on the flat part of the bar, hands in the bottom of the drops, hands on the curve of drops). Buy the one that feels best to you. What you're really buying is a frame that fits -- components, tires and other gear can be swapped out later.

also, with regards to frame materials I wouldn't sweat aluminum vs. steel as a beginner (though my personal preference is for steel). The materials have their strengths and weaknesses but all of them are trumped by fit.

choose hybrid vs. road/cyclocross/light touring based on your expected style of riding. Hybrids are more comfortable out of the box, and provide you with a more stable riding position. They're easier to pick up if you're still a beginner, and a poorly fitted hybrid bike frame can be more forgiving.

road bikes, on the other hand, are faster and more nimble, but, by default, tend to be designed more for speed than comfort. If, however, you get a road frame that fits you well, this shouldn't be that big of an issue.

Most hybrids are also designed to support a rear rack (screw eyelets on the frame, more distance between rear wheel and saddle) and can handle panniers or baskets easily. A lot of road bikes lack rack eyelets or are built with a shorter rear triangle, which increases the chance that your heel will hit rack mounted panniers on the upstroke. Some cyclocross and touring road bikes don't have this problem, but keep it in mind if you're planning on using it for grocery shopping. If you're only planning on riding with a courier bag then this issue is moot.

Some folks will tell you that the flat bar of a hybrid is a drawback because it doesn't give your hands enough ergonomic positions. I'd call bullshit on that. Rubber grips + upright seating dampen a lot of the shock and vibration that you would get on a hybrid and eliminate the need for additional positions. Forward road geometry + thin cork bar tape makes multiple positions necessary for a road bike.

* -- (as they are measured differently -- for road bikes the frame size is based on the length of the frame tube that runs from the crank to your saddle and it's presumed that the tube running from your saddle to your handlebars is going to be flat and not sloping. Since mtbs and hybrids frequently have sloping top tubes, the 2/3ds inseam formula isn't applicable)
posted by bl1nk at 11:35 AM on August 3, 2006

Some good advice here so far. But I'll toss in my own, just to round things out...
1. Don't know (I'm on Long Island)
2. I'd go road bike (yes, the "super-slick"). Light weight, and quick. To me hybrids/comforts are too heavy and clunky.
3. I've been helping a friend search for a road bike. I'd say, be prepared to start around $700. And, the sky's the limit...
4. Don't know.
5. Wear a helmet. Ride as if you were invisible (i.e. don't expect people to see you). Make eye contact. Don't get "doored". Signal your turns. More info.
posted by ObscureReferenceMan at 11:49 AM on August 3, 2006

Some folks will tell you that the flat bar of a hybrid is a drawback because it doesn't give your hands enough ergonomic positions. I'd call bullshit on that. Rubber grips + upright seating dampen a lot of the shock and vibration that you would get on a hybrid and eliminate the need for additional positions. Forward road geometry + thin cork bar tape makes multiple positions necessary for a road bike.

I disagree. It's my experience that even when on a "more comfortable" and "more upright" hybrid, I kept wanting to change hand positions. Road bars are better for this. I stand by that statement.
posted by The Michael The at 11:56 AM on August 3, 2006

I've been an NYC cyclist for 25 years (including as a messenger) and I've never been happier than on my current single-speed Specialized Langster which I bought at Bicycle Habitat on Lafayette St.
posted by nicwolff at 12:06 PM on August 3, 2006

I disagree. It's my experience that even when on a "more comfortable" and "more upright" hybrid, I kept wanting to change hand positions. Road bars are better for this. I stand by that statement.

I've done centuries gloveless on a hybrid and it was my primary urban bike for four years on the potholed streets of Boston and I never felt the need for alternate hand positions. So, YMMV.
posted by bl1nk at 12:59 PM on August 3, 2006

No one mentions punctures?

You'll get them and they're a pain in the arse. Something like Armadillo 'puncture proof' tyres made by Specialized are a godsend.

Being substantially heavier they can be exhausting to ride on a long commute but for me they're more than worth the extra puff.
posted by dmt at 2:17 PM on August 3, 2006

I asked a question about securing my bike in NYC, that may be helpful to you. If you end up spending a lot of money on your bike, think about getting renter's insurance, which will cover your bike—even if it's stolen outside your apartment.

Grab a NYC bikemap from your local bike shop, and check out the diagram that depicts all the other things you need to have: a good lock, a good helmet, lights (for night riding), a horn or a bell. Maybe a rear bike rack. Expect to spend about $150 for all this stuff, on top of what you spend on the bike alone. I got my bike for free, and I've spent at least $200 on extras. (But, it's totally worth it, I love my bike.)

The Transportation Alternatives membership has some sort of special rebate on a bike lock, but from what I remember, it takes a long time to receive the lock. I think they mail the lock to you.
posted by hooray at 8:01 PM on August 3, 2006