Which stitch to hand sew polyester?
February 12, 2023 7:15 AM Subscribe
What stitch do I, a novice, want to use when hand sewing rather heavy polyester (well, some heavy synthetic, anyway, with a tight weave) fabric?
I know the blanket stitch, whip stitch, and others -- but which one do I choose for different fabrics?
I am making little (unlined) Dopp kits, so the seams are hidden inside. These aren't fancy, so a raw edge is fine. :7)
The fabric is heavy enough for banners -- thicker than you would use for anything besides maybe a parka.
I just don't know the criteria for choosing one stitch over another. Thanks!!
I am making little (unlined) Dopp kits, so the seams are hidden inside. These aren't fancy, so a raw edge is fine. :7)
The fabric is heavy enough for banners -- thicker than you would use for anything besides maybe a parka.
I just don't know the criteria for choosing one stitch over another. Thanks!!
Response by poster: Woven. And maybe even coated because there is a little pop when the needle goes through, between the fibers.
posted by wenestvedt at 9:02 AM on February 12, 2023
posted by wenestvedt at 9:02 AM on February 12, 2023
Best answer: The key to stabilizing a seam on a woven fabric is to fold it over. Stitch through three or four layers.
A felled seam is very durable and protects the raw edges of the fabric. The stitch doesn’t matter so much.
posted by bendy at 9:24 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
A felled seam is very durable and protects the raw edges of the fabric. The stitch doesn’t matter so much.
posted by bendy at 9:24 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
Also, if your fabric is really thick or tough and stitching is difficult look for a better needle.
posted by bendy at 9:28 AM on February 12, 2023
posted by bendy at 9:28 AM on February 12, 2023
If it’s the kind of fabric I am picturing, I would do a whip stitch. I might even use a heavier embroidery thread.
Alternatively, use pinking shears to finish edges and use a backstitch.
posted by vunder at 9:46 AM on February 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
Alternatively, use pinking shears to finish edges and use a backstitch.
posted by vunder at 9:46 AM on February 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: It's easy enough to sew through, thankfully.
Does it really not matter which stitch I use?
(Edited to add: just saw the suggestion of the backstitch. Wasn't ignoring you!)
posted by wenestvedt at 9:47 AM on February 12, 2023
Does it really not matter which stitch I use?
(Edited to add: just saw the suggestion of the backstitch. Wasn't ignoring you!)
posted by wenestvedt at 9:47 AM on February 12, 2023
For a Dopp kit you probably want something at least water-resistant. Felled seams are better at keeping water out.
In terms of which stitch… if you’re doing a felled seam, the folded fabric in the seam is already making the stitch secure, use whatever stitch you like.
posted by bendy at 9:54 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
In terms of which stitch… if you’re doing a felled seam, the folded fabric in the seam is already making the stitch secure, use whatever stitch you like.
posted by bendy at 9:54 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
How are you going to use these? Are they just always going to be sitting on surfaces without a lot of stress on the seams, or are you going to want the seams to be strong enough to bear up to some pressure (for example, from filling up the bags and carrying them)?
With the caveat that I am not a hand sewer, whip stitch always more seemed more appropriate for decorative or other usages where there isn't a ton of strain on the stitch. For bags I'd try to make the seams as strong as possible, with a smallish backstitch or similar. But given that the comments above disagree, you could do two test seams with different stitches and see how well they hold up to strain.
posted by trig at 10:02 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
With the caveat that I am not a hand sewer, whip stitch always more seemed more appropriate for decorative or other usages where there isn't a ton of strain on the stitch. For bags I'd try to make the seams as strong as possible, with a smallish backstitch or similar. But given that the comments above disagree, you could do two test seams with different stitches and see how well they hold up to strain.
posted by trig at 10:02 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: Just mostly organizers for my big bag. So no heavy loading.
posted by wenestvedt at 10:13 AM on February 12, 2023
posted by wenestvedt at 10:13 AM on February 12, 2023
Best answer: For bags I'd try to make the seams as strong as possible
Caveat that you don't want your seams to be stronger than your fabric--if it fails under pressure you want the thread to rip (fixable) rather than the fabric (technically fixable but a PITA).
One benefit of working with plastic-based fabrics is that you can (carefully) melt the edge to prevent fraying--if your fabric will do this, then a whipstich or a running backstitch would be a good middle ground between ease and strength. A flat-felled seam will encapsulate the raw edge and increase durability. Or you can treat these as more disposable projects and just stitch them up however is fastest and most comfortable for you.
posted by radiogreentea at 10:23 AM on February 12, 2023 [4 favorites]
Caveat that you don't want your seams to be stronger than your fabric--if it fails under pressure you want the thread to rip (fixable) rather than the fabric (technically fixable but a PITA).
One benefit of working with plastic-based fabrics is that you can (carefully) melt the edge to prevent fraying--if your fabric will do this, then a whipstich or a running backstitch would be a good middle ground between ease and strength. A flat-felled seam will encapsulate the raw edge and increase durability. Or you can treat these as more disposable projects and just stitch them up however is fastest and most comfortable for you.
posted by radiogreentea at 10:23 AM on February 12, 2023 [4 favorites]
Best answer: Whip stitch can be plenty strong, it’s used for some heavyweight historical garments — right sides together, fold both seam allowances back, whip stitch teeny stitches along the join, and when you open it the stitches disappear into the right side.
I think there’s a good drawing in American Duchess’ book. Probably some YouTubes, too.
Lots of stitches work, anything you can keep straight.
posted by clew at 11:28 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
I think there’s a good drawing in American Duchess’ book. Probably some YouTubes, too.
Lots of stitches work, anything you can keep straight.
posted by clew at 11:28 AM on February 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: OK, so I ended up using a backstitch or a running stitch sometimes, and a plain old in-and-out stitch (which I then folded back over itself and re-sewed as a French seam?) sometimes.
I also sewed up some nice wool fabric, and a little 1.6 ounce HyperD ,and then some Polartec PowerGrid fleece -- and amazingly enough these same few techniques have been sufficient so far.
This is fun!! Thanks for all the advice, y'all. I am having a ball making things!
posted by wenestvedt at 12:35 PM on March 14, 2023 [1 favorite]
I also sewed up some nice wool fabric, and a little 1.6 ounce HyperD ,and then some Polartec PowerGrid fleece -- and amazingly enough these same few techniques have been sufficient so far.
This is fun!! Thanks for all the advice, y'all. I am having a ball making things!
posted by wenestvedt at 12:35 PM on March 14, 2023 [1 favorite]
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by bendy at 8:28 AM on February 12, 2023 [1 favorite]