How do I model train?
November 8, 2015 8:21 AM Subscribe
I don't know anything about model trains except the scales. Can you recommend a book or site that will take me through everything, step-by-step? Preferably in Z Scale (I don't have a lot of room and I love really tiny things)
My searching has led me to layouts, but not how the trains actually run. I know there is some sort of control thing, but I don't understand how it attaches to the track and makes the train run. I figured the best way to learn was to buy a starter kit, but even "starter" kits expect me to know what kind of power pack I want. Model train enthusiasts, please help me!
My searching has led me to layouts, but not how the trains actually run. I know there is some sort of control thing, but I don't understand how it attaches to the track and makes the train run. I figured the best way to learn was to buy a starter kit, but even "starter" kits expect me to know what kind of power pack I want. Model train enthusiasts, please help me!
Don't sweat about the connection to the track, it's just a couple of wires that connect to a section of the rails with little clips. The power supplies are just variable DC transformers (i.e. a little more complicated than a potentiometer, but not complex by any means). The power supply controls the voltage (speed) and polarity (direction of travel). Amperage drawn is determined by the locomotive's motor, which is why the same power supply can be used with a variety of sizes of trains.
posted by jon1270 at 8:39 AM on November 8, 2015
posted by jon1270 at 8:39 AM on November 8, 2015
Response by poster: I should rephrase a bit (although humboldt & jon's answers are helpful)- I need to know all of it. What kind of power pack do I need (in the starter kit linked, I have to pick between 120 volt or 230 volt)? What else do I need to buy? How do I put it all together? That's the kind of info I'm looking for.
posted by dogmom at 8:48 AM on November 8, 2015
posted by dogmom at 8:48 AM on November 8, 2015
There are two methods to powering a track.
First way is DC. You have a power brick with a big dial in the middle. Two leads run from this unit and attach to the track. One to each rail. Locomotives receive power from the rails via their wheels.
When the dial is at 0, there is no power flowing. When you turn that dial, you turn up the juice on the track, and the trains begin to run. Turning the dial further will send more power to the track and the trains will run faster.
The second method is DCC (Digital Control Command, or something like that). If you're going to start from scratch, this would probably be the best way to go. With DCC, you have a constant voltage running across the rails. Each DCC engine has a little computer aboard which you speak to using your DCC controller.
With DCC, each engine will have a number assigned to it. So if you have three trains on the track, you can use DCC to send different commands to each one. With DC, because the control method is the level of voltage running across the track, you cannot control trains individually (unless you're talking about multiple controllers, isolated sections, relays, etc..).
Also with DCC you can control other things like signals and points. I think most DCC locos come with onboard sound too. That's not to say DC can't do these things; you just have to be a bit clever about it.
My advice is go to some shows and have a chat to some modellers. At the beginning of this year, I knew little about the subject but, having a five year old boy who is obsessed with trains, I've had to swot up on a lot of this stuff.
posted by popcassady at 8:51 AM on November 8, 2015 [1 favorite]
First way is DC. You have a power brick with a big dial in the middle. Two leads run from this unit and attach to the track. One to each rail. Locomotives receive power from the rails via their wheels.
When the dial is at 0, there is no power flowing. When you turn that dial, you turn up the juice on the track, and the trains begin to run. Turning the dial further will send more power to the track and the trains will run faster.
The second method is DCC (Digital Control Command, or something like that). If you're going to start from scratch, this would probably be the best way to go. With DCC, you have a constant voltage running across the rails. Each DCC engine has a little computer aboard which you speak to using your DCC controller.
With DCC, each engine will have a number assigned to it. So if you have three trains on the track, you can use DCC to send different commands to each one. With DC, because the control method is the level of voltage running across the track, you cannot control trains individually (unless you're talking about multiple controllers, isolated sections, relays, etc..).
Also with DCC you can control other things like signals and points. I think most DCC locos come with onboard sound too. That's not to say DC can't do these things; you just have to be a bit clever about it.
My advice is go to some shows and have a chat to some modellers. At the beginning of this year, I knew little about the subject but, having a five year old boy who is obsessed with trains, I've had to swot up on a lot of this stuff.
posted by popcassady at 8:51 AM on November 8, 2015 [1 favorite]
Oh, I forgot about DCC. My model train days are about 30 years in the rear-view mirror.
posted by jon1270 at 9:07 AM on November 8, 2015
posted by jon1270 at 9:07 AM on November 8, 2015
Best answer: (in the starter kit linked, I have to pick between 120 volt or 230 volt)
Where do you live? In the US, you need the 120V version.
posted by jon1270 at 9:08 AM on November 8, 2015
Where do you live? In the US, you need the 120V version.
posted by jon1270 at 9:08 AM on November 8, 2015
Best answer: This seems to be the best-rated beginner's guide on Amazon.
posted by jon1270 at 9:32 AM on November 8, 2015
posted by jon1270 at 9:32 AM on November 8, 2015
In case you're looking for more advanced explanation, there are classes on building model trains.
posted by glass origami robot at 10:01 AM on November 8, 2015
posted by glass origami robot at 10:01 AM on November 8, 2015
Yeah, the reason that Märklin also offers the 230 Volt setting on their power packs is because that's what they use in Germany. As per the description of the linked starter set, the provided power pack is switchable, like some stereo components and things. You will have to set it on 120V, and that is all you need to do.
The linked set is what they call "ready to run," that is, it comes with everything you need: a track oval, a power pack, a locomotive with a motor inside, and two freight cars.
As others say, the + and - cables on the 'out' side of the power pack are attached to one and another side of the track. The current is picked up by the locomotive through the wheels. Usually there are metal wipers at the back of the wheels that pick up the current from there and that themselves are connected to whatever kind of analogue or digital system sits inside the loco, and ultimately, this is what gives power to the motor.
Maintenance: largely keeping the track clean and avoiding getting hairs and dust in the gears of the locomotive. Locomotives often do have warranties, and there are also excellent repair services...
You may want to decide whether you want trains after certain prototypes, or just 'a train'. The set above is modeled after 1960s to 1970s German prototypes. These guys (just an example, there are many excellent US-based online stores) also have starter sets with American trains. BUT, for the Micro Trains sets on that link, you'd need to order a separate power pack. The store ought to be able to help you to get all of it right.
[You might want to look into N scale though. Still tiny--1:160--it offers better functionality, and some detailing that you actually also can see...z is not just tiny, but, like, tinytiny]
posted by Namlit at 11:58 AM on November 8, 2015
The linked set is what they call "ready to run," that is, it comes with everything you need: a track oval, a power pack, a locomotive with a motor inside, and two freight cars.
As others say, the + and - cables on the 'out' side of the power pack are attached to one and another side of the track. The current is picked up by the locomotive through the wheels. Usually there are metal wipers at the back of the wheels that pick up the current from there and that themselves are connected to whatever kind of analogue or digital system sits inside the loco, and ultimately, this is what gives power to the motor.
Maintenance: largely keeping the track clean and avoiding getting hairs and dust in the gears of the locomotive. Locomotives often do have warranties, and there are also excellent repair services...
You may want to decide whether you want trains after certain prototypes, or just 'a train'. The set above is modeled after 1960s to 1970s German prototypes. These guys (just an example, there are many excellent US-based online stores) also have starter sets with American trains. BUT, for the Micro Trains sets on that link, you'd need to order a separate power pack. The store ought to be able to help you to get all of it right.
[You might want to look into N scale though. Still tiny--1:160--it offers better functionality, and some detailing that you actually also can see...z is not just tiny, but, like, tinytiny]
posted by Namlit at 11:58 AM on November 8, 2015
Mr. Jane runs N-scale trains. He subscribes to Model Railroader Magazine. The magazine has lots of articles about all things model railroading. They also sell books and videos that might be what you are looking for.
Agreeing with Namilt, go to a train store or show and look at the difference between Z and N. There's teeny and then there's teeny-weeny. Also, if you want to buy from brick and mortar stores, HO is what most stores predominantly carry, with some N scale stock and less Z scale.
posted by sarajane at 12:25 PM on November 8, 2015
Agreeing with Namilt, go to a train store or show and look at the difference between Z and N. There's teeny and then there's teeny-weeny. Also, if you want to buy from brick and mortar stores, HO is what most stores predominantly carry, with some N scale stock and less Z scale.
posted by sarajane at 12:25 PM on November 8, 2015
You might also lurk a yahoo group or two Yahoo Z Scale, they are rather popular mailing lists with model railroaders. You can look through the backlog and see what people are up to and what is possible.
Each engine might perhaps take a quarter watt of power. Depending on the kinds of trains you run, a 4 unit diesel lashup would still be only a watt. Most Z scale is pure DC power (not DCC), and a decent pack will not be that expensive. MRC makes some good ones.
The difficult part of the smaller scales (N, Z, T) is that while mass decreases proportional to the cube of the scale, friction stays the same, and getting consistent electrical contact for running the trains can be difficult. For a starter train I would suggest avoiding grades (have flat trackwork), and a minimum of switches.
posted by nickggully at 6:47 PM on November 8, 2015
Each engine might perhaps take a quarter watt of power. Depending on the kinds of trains you run, a 4 unit diesel lashup would still be only a watt. Most Z scale is pure DC power (not DCC), and a decent pack will not be that expensive. MRC makes some good ones.
The difficult part of the smaller scales (N, Z, T) is that while mass decreases proportional to the cube of the scale, friction stays the same, and getting consistent electrical contact for running the trains can be difficult. For a starter train I would suggest avoiding grades (have flat trackwork), and a minimum of switches.
posted by nickggully at 6:47 PM on November 8, 2015
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To answer your basic question.
posted by humboldt32 at 8:35 AM on November 8, 2015