Can I change my hybrid's handlebars to make it closer to a road bike?
March 5, 2013 8:46 PM Subscribe
So my awesome SO bought me a woman's hybrid bike for my birthday, and I realized after a few long-ish bike ride that I'm having 2 issues: 1.) My shoulders hurt. Bad. And for weeks. 2.) Less an issue, but my lower back also bugs me after a long ride. Is it possible to change the ergonomics of the bike by changing the handlebars? If you've done this, please share your story!
We shifted the seat up to make it higher so I can lean forward a bit more, but that doesn't solve the shoulders and wrists hurting (and I'd rather it lean more forward anyway - more like a road bike). So I thought road-bike handlebars might work, or butterfly type handlebars, because my arms would be more straight in front instead of bowed out. I believe it's the bowed-out position caused by the wide handlebars that's hurting my shoulders. I definitely need a handlebar that offers different positions for the hands.
Complicating the issue: Twist Shifters by Shimano. Any idea if it's possible to change the style of the bike, and how much it might cost? We're pretty new at riding.
We shifted the seat up to make it higher so I can lean forward a bit more, but that doesn't solve the shoulders and wrists hurting (and I'd rather it lean more forward anyway - more like a road bike). So I thought road-bike handlebars might work, or butterfly type handlebars, because my arms would be more straight in front instead of bowed out. I believe it's the bowed-out position caused by the wide handlebars that's hurting my shoulders. I definitely need a handlebar that offers different positions for the hands.
Complicating the issue: Twist Shifters by Shimano. Any idea if it's possible to change the style of the bike, and how much it might cost? We're pretty new at riding.
There are lots of things you can do to make your bike more comfortable. First, some discomfort is natural if you've never done long tides before. More importantly, though, the best way to deal with this is to go to a well-regarded local bike shop and ask for help with fit.
posted by bluedaisy at 8:54 PM on March 5, 2013
posted by bluedaisy at 8:54 PM on March 5, 2013
It does really matter if you are fitted to your bike by someone who knows what they are doing. It needs to be done by someone in the same room with you but not all local bike shops are going to be good at it!!!! A good fitting makes a huge difference. Look for references from the local biking community. A centimeter can make a difference - half a centimeter can make a difference.
posted by Carbolic at 9:01 PM on March 5, 2013 [3 favorites]
posted by Carbolic at 9:01 PM on March 5, 2013 [3 favorites]
First, adjust seat height so that your legs are 90% straight when the pedal is furthest away.
Then adjust handlebars. Arm and wrist pain suggests to me you might be more comfortable riding straighter, ie with less weight on your arms/wrists, so consider raising the bars instead of lowering them, so you sit up straighter. (If you're avoiding that because the seat is small and hard and painful, then another seat might be part of the solution.)
Your arms should not be bowed outwards much. Perhaps the handlebars are too close?
Most bikes, you can get a stem extension (the pole that holds the handlebars), either for more Up, or more distance forward, or both, if it doesn't go far enough. That's a trip to the bike shop.
Wrist/arm pain may also be from not being a rider and needing to give your musculature some time to strengthen a few previously unused muscles. But if it's uncomfortable, better to try to fix it than to try waiting it out.
Yes it should possible to change the style of the bike handlebars. Since you're newish, that's also something you would go to a bike shop to talk about. Before buying new handlebars, I would spend some more time first seeing if you can adjust the existing ones to a more comfortable fit. As people have said, a bike shop can help with that too.
Changing handlebars is time-consuming, and usually involves buying new tape too (the tape never goes back on quite as nicely, but it's cheap enough, no biggie) but not really difficult. Getting the feel/fit where you like it involves more judgement calls though.
posted by anonymisc at 9:17 PM on March 5, 2013
Then adjust handlebars. Arm and wrist pain suggests to me you might be more comfortable riding straighter, ie with less weight on your arms/wrists, so consider raising the bars instead of lowering them, so you sit up straighter. (If you're avoiding that because the seat is small and hard and painful, then another seat might be part of the solution.)
Your arms should not be bowed outwards much. Perhaps the handlebars are too close?
Most bikes, you can get a stem extension (the pole that holds the handlebars), either for more Up, or more distance forward, or both, if it doesn't go far enough. That's a trip to the bike shop.
Wrist/arm pain may also be from not being a rider and needing to give your musculature some time to strengthen a few previously unused muscles. But if it's uncomfortable, better to try to fix it than to try waiting it out.
Yes it should possible to change the style of the bike handlebars. Since you're newish, that's also something you would go to a bike shop to talk about. Before buying new handlebars, I would spend some more time first seeing if you can adjust the existing ones to a more comfortable fit. As people have said, a bike shop can help with that too.
Changing handlebars is time-consuming, and usually involves buying new tape too (the tape never goes back on quite as nicely, but it's cheap enough, no biggie) but not really difficult. Getting the feel/fit where you like it involves more judgement calls though.
posted by anonymisc at 9:17 PM on March 5, 2013
Bike shop guy here: A fit is important, but also know that it's going to take a few weeks for your body to get used to any new fit that you arrive at. You'll be sore in new places, and your body needs to adjust to these changes over time. Ease into them gradually, with shorter rides, and then work into rides of the length you'd do on a regular basis (which I'm going to assume will be longer, relatively). This might even apply to the way your bike's set up right now, but that's debatable. Your shoulder and lower back pain will be better diagnosed in-person by your fitter.
Fitting times will vary for different kinds of fits, usually getting longer and more expensive as they get more thorough. Personally, I'm most familiar with the fit system used by Specialized, with the mid-level fitting at our shop taking about two hours. Every shop is different, though. Don't assume that everyone in the shop (or every shop!) will be capable of doing the kind of fit that you need - many shops will have one or two fit specialists, and they'll be who you end up talking to the most about this. A good fitting in a shop that you're comfortable with can often develop into a healthy rider / shop relationship, and if riding is something you feel like you want to pursue in any kind of regular way, a relationship like this will rock your socks.
There's a lot you can do to change the bike to meet your needs, but with regards to more-or-less turning your hybrid into a road bike, I'll be brutally honest: that's costly and rarely worth it. Hybrids often come with a mountain stem and mountain bars, shifters, and brake levers, all of which have different clamp diameters than their road counterparts (and thus aren't cross-compatible). So there's a bunch of new stuff you get to buy right out of the gate, and that's before getting drivetrain compatibility sorted out. You'd also be fighting the hybrid frame's geometry, which is usually a bit more upright than many relaxed-geometry road bikes. Again, the shop you visit will be able to address this more effectively. That it has Shimano grip-shifters makes it sound like one of two things, either a) a comfort hybrid, which would have a bolt-upright riding position and wouldn't account for the pain you're having, or b) a department store bike, which is often low quality and not worth a whole lot of anything, frankly.
¡BUT! Since this was a gift, it might be worth the effort to you - that's something you need to decide for yourself, and if you're comfortable going the whole nine yards to turn this bike into something you want, then by God, go for it. Just make sure you know what you're getting into first. It's going to be a process, and that's perfectly okay.
posted by Chutzler at 9:53 PM on March 5, 2013
Fitting times will vary for different kinds of fits, usually getting longer and more expensive as they get more thorough. Personally, I'm most familiar with the fit system used by Specialized, with the mid-level fitting at our shop taking about two hours. Every shop is different, though. Don't assume that everyone in the shop (or every shop!) will be capable of doing the kind of fit that you need - many shops will have one or two fit specialists, and they'll be who you end up talking to the most about this. A good fitting in a shop that you're comfortable with can often develop into a healthy rider / shop relationship, and if riding is something you feel like you want to pursue in any kind of regular way, a relationship like this will rock your socks.
There's a lot you can do to change the bike to meet your needs, but with regards to more-or-less turning your hybrid into a road bike, I'll be brutally honest: that's costly and rarely worth it. Hybrids often come with a mountain stem and mountain bars, shifters, and brake levers, all of which have different clamp diameters than their road counterparts (and thus aren't cross-compatible). So there's a bunch of new stuff you get to buy right out of the gate, and that's before getting drivetrain compatibility sorted out. You'd also be fighting the hybrid frame's geometry, which is usually a bit more upright than many relaxed-geometry road bikes. Again, the shop you visit will be able to address this more effectively. That it has Shimano grip-shifters makes it sound like one of two things, either a) a comfort hybrid, which would have a bolt-upright riding position and wouldn't account for the pain you're having, or b) a department store bike, which is often low quality and not worth a whole lot of anything, frankly.
¡BUT! Since this was a gift, it might be worth the effort to you - that's something you need to decide for yourself, and if you're comfortable going the whole nine yards to turn this bike into something you want, then by God, go for it. Just make sure you know what you're getting into first. It's going to be a process, and that's perfectly okay.
posted by Chutzler at 9:53 PM on March 5, 2013
Your arms and shoulders hurt because there's too much weight on them. Lower your seat and try moving it back a centimeter or so and see how that feels. 75deg at the knee is just fine.
posted by rhizome at 11:22 PM on March 5, 2013
posted by rhizome at 11:22 PM on March 5, 2013
Local bike shop first, of course.
I was having similar wrist pain with mountain bike-style handlebars, and starting looking into switching them out for drop bars (the kind you see on road bikes). It turns out getting drop bars would cost something like $200 because I'd need new shifters. That wasn't worth it considering the cost of my bike. Instead I had handlebar extensions put on. You've probably seen them on communter bikes -- pieces of metal attached to the end of flat handlebars pointing upwards. They give you more options to grip the bars and have made a big difference for me.
posted by no regrets, coyote at 11:32 PM on March 5, 2013
I was having similar wrist pain with mountain bike-style handlebars, and starting looking into switching them out for drop bars (the kind you see on road bikes). It turns out getting drop bars would cost something like $200 because I'd need new shifters. That wasn't worth it considering the cost of my bike. Instead I had handlebar extensions put on. You've probably seen them on communter bikes -- pieces of metal attached to the end of flat handlebars pointing upwards. They give you more options to grip the bars and have made a big difference for me.
posted by no regrets, coyote at 11:32 PM on March 5, 2013
I rode my hybrid for a year commuting 12 miles a day without problems and then started doing longer (i.e. 50+ mile rides). I started getting lower back pain on the longer rides and some shoulder niggles. Ideally, I would have checked bike fit better to make sure that wasn't the issue but by that point I had owned the bike a year and had trouble free cycling. For me, the issue was not seat height, which I'd got sorted.
I don't think lowering the handlebars relative to your waist is likely the issue.
I fitted an adjustable stem, which effectively raised the height of the handlebars by a couple of inches. It is a 10 minute process in a bike shop and not expensive, although you do have to buy the adjustable stem. It was cheap enough that if it didn't work, then I wasn't too bothered.
I also fitted bar ends onto my handlebars so on longer rides I could adjust the position of my hands. This does tend to make you lean forward more, but having some variety in riding positions helped me.
It is a more expensive job to fit slimmer handlebars - because you need to move and possibly replace the shifters. But it's not impossible and a good bike shop can quote you a price for this.
Also - at least in my case - losing weight, and therefore reducing the weight I put down through my shoulders and hands - helps.
posted by MuffinMan at 12:02 AM on March 6, 2013
I don't think lowering the handlebars relative to your waist is likely the issue.
I fitted an adjustable stem, which effectively raised the height of the handlebars by a couple of inches. It is a 10 minute process in a bike shop and not expensive, although you do have to buy the adjustable stem. It was cheap enough that if it didn't work, then I wasn't too bothered.
I also fitted bar ends onto my handlebars so on longer rides I could adjust the position of my hands. This does tend to make you lean forward more, but having some variety in riding positions helped me.
It is a more expensive job to fit slimmer handlebars - because you need to move and possibly replace the shifters. But it's not impossible and a good bike shop can quote you a price for this.
Also - at least in my case - losing weight, and therefore reducing the weight I put down through my shoulders and hands - helps.
posted by MuffinMan at 12:02 AM on March 6, 2013
I recently swapped out flat bars for drop bars on my bike and it was a fairly expensive process (~$400 for parts and labor), mainly because it required upgrading the brake and shifter levers. You will almost certainly have to do the same since twist shifters generally aren't compatible with drop bars.
But before you schedule the service to switch out your handlebars, try some adjustments yourself first. I (and many other women) have found that raising the nose of the saddle just the teeniest bit helps a lot with shoulder/arm/wrist pain, because that helps keep you from putting your whole weight on the handlebars. Don't raise it too much, though, otherwise you'll be compressing soft genital tissue and restricting blood flow to places where the blood really needs to flow. Experiment with seat height. Consider a different saddle. If none of that is working, or you just don't feel comfortable making adjustments yourself, go to the bike shop and explain what's going on. They'll be able to do a fitting--either an informal one or one of the more involved ones--and suggest changes you may not have thought of. For instance, it's possible a different set of flat bars, or another type of bar you're not yet aware of, would work better for you than what you have now or drops.
I actually ended up reverting my bike to its original flat-bar state, by the way, because all the changes required to make the drop bars work on my bike were kinda clunky and I could never get the fit quite right, so I decided to make the flat bars work for me (and with some minor adjustments, they have!) and save up for a slightly road-ier bike, that's designed for drop bars, in the future. Sometimes this happens. Other times people put the drop bars on their hybrid and are happy as can be. Like someone said above, this can be A Process, but a comfortable bike is worth it.
posted by rhiannonstone at 1:03 AM on March 6, 2013
But before you schedule the service to switch out your handlebars, try some adjustments yourself first. I (and many other women) have found that raising the nose of the saddle just the teeniest bit helps a lot with shoulder/arm/wrist pain, because that helps keep you from putting your whole weight on the handlebars. Don't raise it too much, though, otherwise you'll be compressing soft genital tissue and restricting blood flow to places where the blood really needs to flow. Experiment with seat height. Consider a different saddle. If none of that is working, or you just don't feel comfortable making adjustments yourself, go to the bike shop and explain what's going on. They'll be able to do a fitting--either an informal one or one of the more involved ones--and suggest changes you may not have thought of. For instance, it's possible a different set of flat bars, or another type of bar you're not yet aware of, would work better for you than what you have now or drops.
I actually ended up reverting my bike to its original flat-bar state, by the way, because all the changes required to make the drop bars work on my bike were kinda clunky and I could never get the fit quite right, so I decided to make the flat bars work for me (and with some minor adjustments, they have!) and save up for a slightly road-ier bike, that's designed for drop bars, in the future. Sometimes this happens. Other times people put the drop bars on their hybrid and are happy as can be. Like someone said above, this can be A Process, but a comfortable bike is worth it.
posted by rhiannonstone at 1:03 AM on March 6, 2013
It can (and has) been done, will be expensive, and can be complicated. I recently made the same conversion on a hybrid I have been riding for some time. The change began as a way to improve fit now that I'm older, and just looking at the slammed stem of my youth made my hands ache. The conversion spiraled into drop bar conversion only because I wanted to treat myself to a bicycle project over the winter. Fit can be improved without changing handlebar style, but having extra hand positions on long rides is nice to have.
Things that need to be considered:
1) Handlebar height. In most modern cases can only be adjusted by using a stem extender ($), or obtaining a new fork ($$$) with uncut steer tube, and getting properly fit before cutting to the desired length
2) Handlebar reach. Adjusted by introducing a different stem length and angle. Figuring out which one would be difficult without professional help
3) Handlebar width - they come in all kinds of different shapes and sizes...
4) Shifting - you won't be able to use the twist shift with drop handlebars. You can choose to use bar end or down-tube shifters ($$) , or 'brifters' ($$$$) (integrated brake + shift lever). The choice you make here needs to support your current system, else you will also need to replace some drive train components.
5) Braking - road levers don't have the travel that many hybrid brake systems require, which means either a limited choice in brake lever (no brifter), or replacing the brake system to support hybrid brakes.
6) Cabling will likely need to be replaced, as length requirements for each component are also likely to change.
In my case, I went with a new fork, bar end shifters, and replaced the braking system so I could use standard road levers (from hybrid to cable actuated disc). Just the parts for the conversion were expensive, more than most would consider spending on a complete bicycle, and were certainly not fancy nor expensive on their own. There were just enough of them required that it added up, fast!
posted by csmason at 7:37 AM on March 6, 2013
Things that need to be considered:
1) Handlebar height. In most modern cases can only be adjusted by using a stem extender ($), or obtaining a new fork ($$$) with uncut steer tube, and getting properly fit before cutting to the desired length
2) Handlebar reach. Adjusted by introducing a different stem length and angle. Figuring out which one would be difficult without professional help
3) Handlebar width - they come in all kinds of different shapes and sizes...
4) Shifting - you won't be able to use the twist shift with drop handlebars. You can choose to use bar end or down-tube shifters ($$) , or 'brifters' ($$$$) (integrated brake + shift lever). The choice you make here needs to support your current system, else you will also need to replace some drive train components.
5) Braking - road levers don't have the travel that many hybrid brake systems require, which means either a limited choice in brake lever (no brifter), or replacing the brake system to support hybrid brakes.
6) Cabling will likely need to be replaced, as length requirements for each component are also likely to change.
In my case, I went with a new fork, bar end shifters, and replaced the braking system so I could use standard road levers (from hybrid to cable actuated disc). Just the parts for the conversion were expensive, more than most would consider spending on a complete bicycle, and were certainly not fancy nor expensive on their own. There were just enough of them required that it added up, fast!
posted by csmason at 7:37 AM on March 6, 2013
Did you already have a bike that felt better? Or is this a new endeavor? Because I'd suggest dropping your seat a bit, and getting fitted at a reputable place. It might cost a few bucks but is so worth it.
posted by barnone at 8:22 AM on March 6, 2013
posted by barnone at 8:22 AM on March 6, 2013
Fit is very important, as everyone has mentioned.
But, if you want butterfly bars, go ahead and get butterfly bars. While road bike drops are not a great option for all the reasons that people have mentioned, there isn't anything stopping you from installing butterfly bars as they are made to be installed as a replacement for a flat bar. Bar ends are also an option. Alternatively, if the width is the main issue, you can always move the grips inwards and cut the ends off your handlebars.
posted by ssg at 9:09 AM on March 6, 2013
But, if you want butterfly bars, go ahead and get butterfly bars. While road bike drops are not a great option for all the reasons that people have mentioned, there isn't anything stopping you from installing butterfly bars as they are made to be installed as a replacement for a flat bar. Bar ends are also an option. Alternatively, if the width is the main issue, you can always move the grips inwards and cut the ends off your handlebars.
posted by ssg at 9:09 AM on March 6, 2013
If you post two pictures you you sitting on the bike, I'd offer some specific tips. One picture should be from the side and one from the front.
I always start with two things when I'm trying to figure out arm pain.
1. Are your wrists in a good position when you ride? What they say about wrists and your keyboard also goes for your wrists and your bike. If you wrists are bent much when comfortably riding, you might want to rotate the brake levers down so you have a more neutral position of your wrist.
2. Does your seat position allow you to have a decent balance on the bike? If your seat is too high or too far back, you may end up putting too much weight on your handlebar. Ideally, your weight behing the pedals is similar to your weight in front of them. Think of the bottom bracket where the cranks and pedals rotate as the center of your pedals. Your seat is behind that. To balance that weight, you lean forward and hold on to the handlebars. Balance so your core muscles are keeping you stable rather than leaning on your arms or sitting heavily on your seat.
If you end up considering some change other than adjustments, I'd consider bar ends before trying to switch to a road style drop bar. It's not worth the cost of changing. It's more often a better deal to sell the bike and buy a road bike. I like Ergon bar ends with or without the antler. When you put them on, think about getting some neutral wrist positions and try to rotate them to get a relaxed wrist. If you feel like the bar is too wider, try riding with your hands closer together. If you like it, the levers can get moved in and the bar can be cut down to size. If you want to do this yourself, a pipe cutter is the easiest way to do this.
posted by advicepig at 9:45 AM on March 6, 2013
I always start with two things when I'm trying to figure out arm pain.
1. Are your wrists in a good position when you ride? What they say about wrists and your keyboard also goes for your wrists and your bike. If you wrists are bent much when comfortably riding, you might want to rotate the brake levers down so you have a more neutral position of your wrist.
2. Does your seat position allow you to have a decent balance on the bike? If your seat is too high or too far back, you may end up putting too much weight on your handlebar. Ideally, your weight behing the pedals is similar to your weight in front of them. Think of the bottom bracket where the cranks and pedals rotate as the center of your pedals. Your seat is behind that. To balance that weight, you lean forward and hold on to the handlebars. Balance so your core muscles are keeping you stable rather than leaning on your arms or sitting heavily on your seat.
If you end up considering some change other than adjustments, I'd consider bar ends before trying to switch to a road style drop bar. It's not worth the cost of changing. It's more often a better deal to sell the bike and buy a road bike. I like Ergon bar ends with or without the antler. When you put them on, think about getting some neutral wrist positions and try to rotate them to get a relaxed wrist. If you feel like the bar is too wider, try riding with your hands closer together. If you like it, the levers can get moved in and the bar can be cut down to size. If you want to do this yourself, a pipe cutter is the easiest way to do this.
posted by advicepig at 9:45 AM on March 6, 2013
Oh, and I came back to mention you can get bar ends shaped like drops.
Drop style bar ends
posted by advicepig at 11:59 AM on March 6, 2013
Drop style bar ends
posted by advicepig at 11:59 AM on March 6, 2013
A lot depends on how much experience you have (as others have said). If you're new to cycling, or have only cycled indoors, on machines, the pain you're experiencing may just be your muscles adjusting to new demands. Basic core exercises (leg thrusts, crunches, arm and leg lifts) can help immensely here - I speak from experience.
Peter White's advice on bicycle fitting is invaluable. See especially the section on the fore-aft saddle position. You want your saddle height to be determined by your leg length and proportions, so that your leg isn't overextended when pedaling, and your hips don't rock back and forth, but you get maximum power. The fore-aft position, though, depends on your riding position and your aims. Read Peter White. You won't regret it, I promise you.
As for making the bike more comfortable, as others have said, it's much easier to add bar ends, cut down the bar or replace it with a shorter one, or swap out the bar with a trekking/butterfly bar. Road bars would be more trouble than they're worth. Those road-style bar ends look neat, though. I didn't know those were available.
If you decide you want drop bars, the best thing to do would be to get a new bike. But read Peter White, adjust your saddle height, fore-aft position, bar height, and reach accordingly, and see if things improve. Do some core exercises. If adjusting the bike makes things better but you still think your hands are too far apart, replace the bar or cut it down, and put on bar ends.
Oh, and read Peter White. Did I mention that? The late Sheldon Brown's article on bicycling and pain is also useful.
posted by brianogilvie at 2:33 PM on March 6, 2013 [1 favorite]
Peter White's advice on bicycle fitting is invaluable. See especially the section on the fore-aft saddle position. You want your saddle height to be determined by your leg length and proportions, so that your leg isn't overextended when pedaling, and your hips don't rock back and forth, but you get maximum power. The fore-aft position, though, depends on your riding position and your aims. Read Peter White. You won't regret it, I promise you.
As for making the bike more comfortable, as others have said, it's much easier to add bar ends, cut down the bar or replace it with a shorter one, or swap out the bar with a trekking/butterfly bar. Road bars would be more trouble than they're worth. Those road-style bar ends look neat, though. I didn't know those were available.
If you decide you want drop bars, the best thing to do would be to get a new bike. But read Peter White, adjust your saddle height, fore-aft position, bar height, and reach accordingly, and see if things improve. Do some core exercises. If adjusting the bike makes things better but you still think your hands are too far apart, replace the bar or cut it down, and put on bar ends.
Oh, and read Peter White. Did I mention that? The late Sheldon Brown's article on bicycling and pain is also useful.
posted by brianogilvie at 2:33 PM on March 6, 2013 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Wow, everyone has such helpful suggestions!! Thank you! I will definitely go to the bike shop and get fitted.
@advicepig - I'll try to get pictures, thank you!
posted by luciddream928 at 7:56 PM on March 6, 2013
@advicepig - I'll try to get pictures, thank you!
posted by luciddream928 at 7:56 PM on March 6, 2013
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If you didn't buy it there to begin with (Or horrors, bought the dreaded department-store bike) either pay them for the session or work out some purchase. It's only fair.
posted by dhartung at 8:52 PM on March 5, 2013 [1 favorite]