maintenance for 2 yr old bike
May 13, 2010 9:57 AM Subscribe
My bike is going to get its last free tuneup from the shop where I bought it. What in particular should I ask them to check or do?
I have a nearly two year old Giant FCR3W. I can get in one more free maintenance tuneup before I move too far from the bike shop to take it in.
It does not get ridden too hard or too far, but it does get nearly daily use and it does stay outside in my very mild, dry climate. I've been hesitant to do anything other than chain cleaning or tire replacement by myself, but so far it has only needed periodic adjustment to the shifter cables when they lose snap.
If I ask, they will be happy to do little things like repack the hubs if they need it. I don't think the chain is worn enough to replace yet; it has no measurable sag. What else should I specifically request that will give my bike that zippy like-new feeling?
I have a nearly two year old Giant FCR3W. I can get in one more free maintenance tuneup before I move too far from the bike shop to take it in.
It does not get ridden too hard or too far, but it does get nearly daily use and it does stay outside in my very mild, dry climate. I've been hesitant to do anything other than chain cleaning or tire replacement by myself, but so far it has only needed periodic adjustment to the shifter cables when they lose snap.
If I ask, they will be happy to do little things like repack the hubs if they need it. I don't think the chain is worn enough to replace yet; it has no measurable sag. What else should I specifically request that will give my bike that zippy like-new feeling?
After 2 years it's unlikely you'll need the hubs greased. If you have a rear derailleur, you won't see any sag if the chain is worn, although I would guess after 2 year it is. I would ask them to regrease the headset, check the rear derailleur cogs and replace if necessary and check the cassette for wear. The whole drivetrain may be fairly worn, but you can get away with just replacing the chain if need be. Also, get them to check your brake alignment and wear on the pads.
Other than that, there would be no harm in changing the inner cables as they have a tendency to stretch and get gunked up inside the outers.
Things on my bike I check regularly are spoke tension, wear on the pedal axles, grip wear, seatpost (tends to get seized), and generally anything else that moves. If anything is at all creaky, it's a sign it needs to be replaced, cleaned or greased.
posted by SecretsKill at 10:23 AM on May 13, 2010
Other than that, there would be no harm in changing the inner cables as they have a tendency to stretch and get gunked up inside the outers.
Things on my bike I check regularly are spoke tension, wear on the pedal axles, grip wear, seatpost (tends to get seized), and generally anything else that moves. If anything is at all creaky, it's a sign it needs to be replaced, cleaned or greased.
posted by SecretsKill at 10:23 AM on May 13, 2010
Response by poster: Bike is not allowed inside per landlord's rules. This will change soon.
It rides okay, but I swear it felt "faster" when it was brand new. That may be in my head (not in my stomach; my weight hardly changes, and if anything I'm 2lbs lighter these days, so that's not making me slow)
posted by slow graffiti at 10:39 AM on May 13, 2010
It rides okay, but I swear it felt "faster" when it was brand new. That may be in my head (not in my stomach; my weight hardly changes, and if anything I'm 2lbs lighter these days, so that's not making me slow)
posted by slow graffiti at 10:39 AM on May 13, 2010
You can check the chain wear yourself with a ruler. If you line up the beginning of the ruler with one of the pins, there should be another pin at exactly 12". if it's a 1/8" beyond 12" you've already damaged your cassette. Check out Sheldon Brown's Chain Maintenance, specifically the sections on "Chain Stretch" and "Chain and Sprocket Wear"
Brake pads could probably stand to be replaced (especially since it's been sitting outside). Once the rubber hardens it can erode the walls of your rims, which would lead to replacing the wheels.
If you feel like your wheels are sluggish or sticky you could have the hubs adjusted or the bearing cartridges replaced.
Hooray bikes! Hooray preventative maintenance!
posted by clockwork at 11:15 AM on May 13, 2010
Brake pads could probably stand to be replaced (especially since it's been sitting outside). Once the rubber hardens it can erode the walls of your rims, which would lead to replacing the wheels.
If you feel like your wheels are sluggish or sticky you could have the hubs adjusted or the bearing cartridges replaced.
Hooray bikes! Hooray preventative maintenance!
posted by clockwork at 11:15 AM on May 13, 2010
Maybe pull and re-grease the bottom bracket? After 2 years I would probably want to replace the chain though I imagine the would charge you for the part.
How can your landlord prohibit bikes inside? As long as you're not damaging anything or breaking the law it's none of his/her business what you keep inside
posted by ghharr at 12:06 PM on May 13, 2010
How can your landlord prohibit bikes inside? As long as you're not damaging anything or breaking the law it's none of his/her business what you keep inside
posted by ghharr at 12:06 PM on May 13, 2010
Ask them to do the following, which is essentially a "full tuneup":
-- have them check and true both wheels. This is important, and maybe the source of your feeling like the zip has gone out of your bike. If the spokes aren't tensioned properly and the wheels are correspondingly sloppy, it can really affect the ride. Wheels are the single most neglected component in the overall "stiffness" and "responsiveness" quotient of any bike, frame, etc.
-- check and replace the chain/cassette, if worn. Note that these are "wear items" and will cost you if they need replacement. Alternatively you can check them as noted above by clockwork if you feel like you want to know for yourself / protect yourself from being upsold on parts if they're not at recommended wear limits.
-- lube and adjust the cables/housing; check for wear points, fraying and rust - again these are "wear items" and realistically with daily riding and weather they could need replacement.
-- check the brake pads, adjust for wear and/or replace if the blocks are down to the wear indicators (you can check this yourself, as above, the wear indicators are pretty obvious slots on the pads).
-- adjust both derailleurs for tight, crisp shifting
-- check and adjust all bearing surfaces (hubs, bottom bracket, headset, pedals).
-- check and replace tyres that are worn out / dry rotting (more common than you'd think, even in newer bikes).
-- last but not least, check the shifters for wear and/or "slop" in the levers (independent of cable / derailleur adjustment issues) If they're getting tired, then be warned that replacement may ultimately be within the cards, and it is not cheap.
A note on shifting systems: I don't particularly like OEM Shimano parts for this reason; they're non-serviceable/non-replaceable and unless you're buying top of the line (Ultegra/Dura-Ace, which on this model are definitely not), then in my experience they will last approximately 2-3 seasons' worth of regular riding before they crap out. I swear Shimano designs this pattern into their business model :P When this becomes the case, and assuming you want to keep the bike indefinitely rather than upgrading, you maybe want to consider upgrading your shifters to a set of SRAM gripshifts, which have essentially 4 moving parts and can be user serviced. It'll ultimately mean changing out your rear derailleur / cassette as well, but as these are also "wear items" you can potentially do the entire gig in one shot.
A note on bearings: almost all mass produced bikes within the last decade now use cartridge bearings instead of the old open ball/race design for the main bearing sets. If this is the case, they just need to be cleaned of any dust/grit and lightly coated with a good synthetic lube. I love Slick Honey for cartridge bearings (it's a good lightweight low viscosity grease, doesn't harden or cruddify, others may prefer something heavier like Phil Wood, ymmv).
If you're indeed moving too far away from the bikeshop to take it in, definitely consider learning how to do all this stuff yourself. SRAM and VeloNews, as well as a ton of independent shop wrenches everywhere, have posted scads of worthwhile "how-to" videos on Youtube on everything from simple "fix-a-flat" and brake adjustment topics, to full-on suspension overhauls for downhill bikes. Bikes are extremely simple machines; don't let anyone tell you any different. I do all my own independent bike maintenance and have done so since I was a teenager. I've taught many friends (guys and gals both) how to do their own. It's easy, fun, a LOT cheaper than the shop, and highly liberating.
posted by lonefrontranger at 12:07 PM on May 13, 2010 [1 favorite]
-- have them check and true both wheels. This is important, and maybe the source of your feeling like the zip has gone out of your bike. If the spokes aren't tensioned properly and the wheels are correspondingly sloppy, it can really affect the ride. Wheels are the single most neglected component in the overall "stiffness" and "responsiveness" quotient of any bike, frame, etc.
-- check and replace the chain/cassette, if worn. Note that these are "wear items" and will cost you if they need replacement. Alternatively you can check them as noted above by clockwork if you feel like you want to know for yourself / protect yourself from being upsold on parts if they're not at recommended wear limits.
-- lube and adjust the cables/housing; check for wear points, fraying and rust - again these are "wear items" and realistically with daily riding and weather they could need replacement.
-- check the brake pads, adjust for wear and/or replace if the blocks are down to the wear indicators (you can check this yourself, as above, the wear indicators are pretty obvious slots on the pads).
-- adjust both derailleurs for tight, crisp shifting
-- check and adjust all bearing surfaces (hubs, bottom bracket, headset, pedals).
-- check and replace tyres that are worn out / dry rotting (more common than you'd think, even in newer bikes).
-- last but not least, check the shifters for wear and/or "slop" in the levers (independent of cable / derailleur adjustment issues) If they're getting tired, then be warned that replacement may ultimately be within the cards, and it is not cheap.
A note on shifting systems: I don't particularly like OEM Shimano parts for this reason; they're non-serviceable/non-replaceable and unless you're buying top of the line (Ultegra/Dura-Ace, which on this model are definitely not), then in my experience they will last approximately 2-3 seasons' worth of regular riding before they crap out. I swear Shimano designs this pattern into their business model :P When this becomes the case, and assuming you want to keep the bike indefinitely rather than upgrading, you maybe want to consider upgrading your shifters to a set of SRAM gripshifts, which have essentially 4 moving parts and can be user serviced. It'll ultimately mean changing out your rear derailleur / cassette as well, but as these are also "wear items" you can potentially do the entire gig in one shot.
A note on bearings: almost all mass produced bikes within the last decade now use cartridge bearings instead of the old open ball/race design for the main bearing sets. If this is the case, they just need to be cleaned of any dust/grit and lightly coated with a good synthetic lube. I love Slick Honey for cartridge bearings (it's a good lightweight low viscosity grease, doesn't harden or cruddify, others may prefer something heavier like Phil Wood, ymmv).
If you're indeed moving too far away from the bikeshop to take it in, definitely consider learning how to do all this stuff yourself. SRAM and VeloNews, as well as a ton of independent shop wrenches everywhere, have posted scads of worthwhile "how-to" videos on Youtube on everything from simple "fix-a-flat" and brake adjustment topics, to full-on suspension overhauls for downhill bikes. Bikes are extremely simple machines; don't let anyone tell you any different. I do all my own independent bike maintenance and have done so since I was a teenager. I've taught many friends (guys and gals both) how to do their own. It's easy, fun, a LOT cheaper than the shop, and highly liberating.
posted by lonefrontranger at 12:07 PM on May 13, 2010 [1 favorite]
The tires have probably lost a tiny bit of air pressure, which might make it feel more sluggish.
posted by box at 12:15 PM on May 13, 2010
posted by box at 12:15 PM on May 13, 2010
Response by poster: I check my tire pressure weekly and it's always at the max 120psi allowed
posted by slow graffiti at 12:25 PM on May 13, 2010
posted by slow graffiti at 12:25 PM on May 13, 2010
"I don't particularly like OEM Shimano parts for this reason; they're non-serviceable/non-replaceable."
Blah, lfr, fercrissakes, you FAIL at being articulate.
What I meant to say is that for Shimano shifters (in both flatbar / "Deore" based and dropbar "105" based systems) the INTERNALS are non-user-serviceable / replaceable.
Basically when all those dozens of miniscule little pressfit swiss-watch-like springs and mechanisms inside there wear out (which they do, depressingly quickly, I've found, especially if they get ridden in wet/sandy conditions like, commuting to work in winter, ferinstance) then no amount of adjustment will bring them back to life; they're kaput. And opening up the shifter body... well, since you're going to throw it away anyhow, you can go ahead and do it, but be warned, it's like the old can o' snakes gag inside there, or maybe Humpty Dumpty is a better metaphor...) Every shop rat in the history of shop rats I know of has tried it, or pulled it as a prank on the shop newb by telling them "yo, man, pull apart that XT shifter, it needs the return spring replaced....". In essence, Shimano designs these things to be a "throwaway" or "wear" item, a concept I find highly at odds with the whole environmental / green idea of bikes in the first place. Especially since shifters are practically the single most expensive component to replace.
posted by lonefrontranger at 12:33 PM on May 13, 2010
Blah, lfr, fercrissakes, you FAIL at being articulate.
What I meant to say is that for Shimano shifters (in both flatbar / "Deore" based and dropbar "105" based systems) the INTERNALS are non-user-serviceable / replaceable.
Basically when all those dozens of miniscule little pressfit swiss-watch-like springs and mechanisms inside there wear out (which they do, depressingly quickly, I've found, especially if they get ridden in wet/sandy conditions like, commuting to work in winter, ferinstance) then no amount of adjustment will bring them back to life; they're kaput. And opening up the shifter body... well, since you're going to throw it away anyhow, you can go ahead and do it, but be warned, it's like the old can o' snakes gag inside there, or maybe Humpty Dumpty is a better metaphor...) Every shop rat in the history of shop rats I know of has tried it, or pulled it as a prank on the shop newb by telling them "yo, man, pull apart that XT shifter, it needs the return spring replaced....". In essence, Shimano designs these things to be a "throwaway" or "wear" item, a concept I find highly at odds with the whole environmental / green idea of bikes in the first place. Especially since shifters are practically the single most expensive component to replace.
posted by lonefrontranger at 12:33 PM on May 13, 2010
I check my tire pressure weekly and it's always at the max 120psi allowed
Oh, so road bike. As LFR said, make sure the wheels are true. (I've always used tank-like mountain bikes, even when I was a messenger, so that rarely came into play.)
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 3:27 PM on May 13, 2010
Oh, so road bike. As LFR said, make sure the wheels are true. (I've always used tank-like mountain bikes, even when I was a messenger, so that rarely came into play.)
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 3:27 PM on May 13, 2010
"Oh, so road bike..."
actually it's a flatbar women's specific hybrid / citybike, as one may easily find out by googling the make/model cited by the OP.
posted by lonefrontranger at 3:34 PM on May 13, 2010
actually it's a flatbar women's specific hybrid / citybike, as one may easily find out by googling the make/model cited by the OP.
posted by lonefrontranger at 3:34 PM on May 13, 2010
actually it's a flatbar women's specific hybrid / citybike...
Right. With 120psi tires. So, road bike.
Are they still on with this hybrid crap?
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 3:42 PM on May 13, 2010
Right. With 120psi tires. So, road bike.
Are they still on with this hybrid crap?
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 3:42 PM on May 13, 2010
Response by poster: specs here, if it matters: http://www.giant-bicycles.com/en-US/bikes/women/1254/29455/?collections_id=3
my model is xxs, has 650c tires
posted by slow graffiti at 4:26 PM on May 13, 2010
my model is xxs, has 650c tires
posted by slow graffiti at 4:26 PM on May 13, 2010
Are they still on with this hybrid crap?
Oh, yeah, there's no market unfulfilled. My new favorite bike-I-don't-own is a drop-bar-specific rigid singlespeed 29er.
posted by box at 4:29 PM on May 13, 2010
Oh, yeah, there's no market unfulfilled. My new favorite bike-I-don't-own is a drop-bar-specific rigid singlespeed 29er.
posted by box at 4:29 PM on May 13, 2010
Oh, yeah, there's no market unfulfilled. My new favorite bike-I-don't-own is a drop-bar-specific rigid singlespeed 29er.
Oh damn, that does look sweet.
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 4:54 PM on May 13, 2010
Oh damn, that does look sweet.
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 4:54 PM on May 13, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
Just ask them to give it a serious once-over. If they're a decent shop, that should hold you (and bring your bike inside, for crying out loud.) If not, find another shop.
posted by ChurchHatesTucker at 10:08 AM on May 13, 2010