Travel suggestions in Italy
May 1, 2016 1:04 PM Subscribe
we are driving around in Italy this month and would love suggestions for the must-see, the off-beaten-track, the delicious
we are spending 3 weeks in Italy this month!!!! yay! we have a loose itinerary with some open areas, so I'm interested in suggestions.
we spend the first week in Modena, and that section is pretty planned out. then we drive to Monte Conero to visit a friend.
we may stop at Terme di Saturnia in Tuscany on the way.
From there it gets a bit more open. we are going to drive to Pompeii area from there, with some flexibility of time and route along the way.
we will spend a day or 2 in Pompeii area and then we continue down to Tropea, Calabria. here too we have some time and flexibilility re route and stopping to check things out.
so we are interested in suggestions for the routes between Conero and Pompeii, and then Pompeii and Tropea.
our interests:
Ruins!! ancient, Roman, medieval, neo/paleolithic cave art
interesting cultural sites historical or modern, architecture
food!! wine!! people!! museums, beautiful sites and countryside.
bonus points for weird off-the-beaten-track stuff, medieval stuff
we have been to Rome but never to Naples
is Naples proper worth a visit? we plan to see Herculaneum, Oplontis, we could pop into Naples for a while...
there seem to be many paleo/neo cave art sites in southern Italy, such as Grotta del Romita. we'd love to see at least one of these sites on our way from Naples area to Calabria.
we are also contemplating slightly wackier ideas like taking a ferry down to Malta, if that is even a thing (our research hasn't gotten that far yet)
thanks so much for all suggestions!
we are spending 3 weeks in Italy this month!!!! yay! we have a loose itinerary with some open areas, so I'm interested in suggestions.
we spend the first week in Modena, and that section is pretty planned out. then we drive to Monte Conero to visit a friend.
we may stop at Terme di Saturnia in Tuscany on the way.
From there it gets a bit more open. we are going to drive to Pompeii area from there, with some flexibility of time and route along the way.
we will spend a day or 2 in Pompeii area and then we continue down to Tropea, Calabria. here too we have some time and flexibilility re route and stopping to check things out.
so we are interested in suggestions for the routes between Conero and Pompeii, and then Pompeii and Tropea.
our interests:
Ruins!! ancient, Roman, medieval, neo/paleolithic cave art
interesting cultural sites historical or modern, architecture
food!! wine!! people!! museums, beautiful sites and countryside.
bonus points for weird off-the-beaten-track stuff, medieval stuff
we have been to Rome but never to Naples
is Naples proper worth a visit? we plan to see Herculaneum, Oplontis, we could pop into Naples for a while...
there seem to be many paleo/neo cave art sites in southern Italy, such as Grotta del Romita. we'd love to see at least one of these sites on our way from Naples area to Calabria.
we are also contemplating slightly wackier ideas like taking a ferry down to Malta, if that is even a thing (our research hasn't gotten that far yet)
thanks so much for all suggestions!
I found Naples to be delightfully chaotic, but many find it overwhelming. But the archeological museum there is really key to understanding Herculaneum and Pompeii, I think.
Also I adore Ravenna and the mosaics there are something I could spend the rest of my life going to see again and again. If you can, go.
posted by PussKillian at 1:37 PM on May 1, 2016 [1 favorite]
Also I adore Ravenna and the mosaics there are something I could spend the rest of my life going to see again and again. If you can, go.
posted by PussKillian at 1:37 PM on May 1, 2016 [1 favorite]
Ruins being top of your list, whilst you're in the vicinity of Naples, please do not pass by Paestum...
Pompeii and Herculaneum are amazing, but I'm sure you don't need anyone on the interwebs to tell you to go to them.
Paestum is by some way the most impressive Greco-Roman site I've visited out of a pretty decent number across France, Italy, Greece and Turkey. It knocks the Acropolis into a cocked-hat, in the preservation of its key temples, but even moreso in its vastly less crowded, rural setting which lets the mind wander back across the centuries like nowhere else.
posted by protorp at 1:53 PM on May 1, 2016 [3 favorites]
Pompeii and Herculaneum are amazing, but I'm sure you don't need anyone on the interwebs to tell you to go to them.
Paestum is by some way the most impressive Greco-Roman site I've visited out of a pretty decent number across France, Italy, Greece and Turkey. It knocks the Acropolis into a cocked-hat, in the preservation of its key temples, but even moreso in its vastly less crowded, rural setting which lets the mind wander back across the centuries like nowhere else.
posted by protorp at 1:53 PM on May 1, 2016 [3 favorites]
Best answer: If you like ruins, interesting cultural sites, architecture, food, museums, and weird off-the-beaten-track stuff, Naples has all of those things. Beyond just the archaeological materials, there's the Museo di Capodimonte, Napoli Sotterranea, Cappella Sansevero, and a thousand other things. But I wouldn't suggest actually driving through Naples-- walk or take public transit or a cab (though be attentive to the fare and the price quoted...) I personally love Naples but "chaotic" is an excellent description.
Other sites and ruins to consider, which may be more or less reasonable depending on your route: Sperlonga, Scavi di Stabia, Baiae, Cuma, stunning Paestum, the campi flegrei (though I'm sad to hear that the underground tour to visit the river "Styx" isn't available-- there's nothing like giant torches and a trip to the underworld.) Load up on a good translation of Virgil and have fun! I personally like the Antiquarium at Boscoreale, which is focused more on daily life as seen through the excavations, but it's not as flashy as some of the other sites. You could dip down to Reggio Calabria to see the magnificent and incredible Riace Bronzes.
I think you will have more than enough for three weeks, but if you really wanted a bit of a boat trip you could take the ferry across the fabled strait of Messina and do a couple of days in Sicily, which has some of the most incredible food and places of anywhere I've ever been. Taormina is a delight stuffed with marzipan and beautiful views, and it wouldn't be that far (though I wouldn't underestimate driving times-- not just for delays or mountain routes, but because of side trips, vineyards, caffe stops, vistas, etc.) Siracusa is again stunning but might be too far for this trip. Buon viaggio!
posted by jetlagaddict at 1:58 PM on May 1, 2016 [2 favorites]
Other sites and ruins to consider, which may be more or less reasonable depending on your route: Sperlonga, Scavi di Stabia, Baiae, Cuma, stunning Paestum, the campi flegrei (though I'm sad to hear that the underground tour to visit the river "Styx" isn't available-- there's nothing like giant torches and a trip to the underworld.) Load up on a good translation of Virgil and have fun! I personally like the Antiquarium at Boscoreale, which is focused more on daily life as seen through the excavations, but it's not as flashy as some of the other sites. You could dip down to Reggio Calabria to see the magnificent and incredible Riace Bronzes.
I think you will have more than enough for three weeks, but if you really wanted a bit of a boat trip you could take the ferry across the fabled strait of Messina and do a couple of days in Sicily, which has some of the most incredible food and places of anywhere I've ever been. Taormina is a delight stuffed with marzipan and beautiful views, and it wouldn't be that far (though I wouldn't underestimate driving times-- not just for delays or mountain routes, but because of side trips, vineyards, caffe stops, vistas, etc.) Siracusa is again stunning but might be too far for this trip. Buon viaggio!
posted by jetlagaddict at 1:58 PM on May 1, 2016 [2 favorites]
at someone who lived in Naples for 3 years... it's the best. Others have better links than I could - but for sure spend some times there.
posted by aggienfo at 5:56 PM on May 1, 2016 [1 favorite]
posted by aggienfo at 5:56 PM on May 1, 2016 [1 favorite]
Our favorite in the Naples area was Herculaneum. It was quiet and well run. We didn't make it to Pompeii because it was crazy crowded. Tons of people and tour buses everywhere. Cuma is really off the beaten path but well worth it. It has varying hours so you might want to check before you go. We just ate what we felt like but mostly bought fruit, bread, beer and cheese at IperCoop. There was a Limoncello distillery near where we stayed in Masa Lubrense that looked like fun.
posted by PJMoore at 6:25 PM on May 1, 2016
posted by PJMoore at 6:25 PM on May 1, 2016
I love Naples. It is so earthy and real and fascinating. The archaeological museum is one of the best in the world, but I would go just because the city is awesome and contains so much of interest, and the museum is a bonus (and the ideal companion to a visit to Pompeii; all the movable stuff from Pompeii is housed there.)
I'd be surprised if you have time for a ferry to Malta. But you can ferry from Naples to the Aeolian islands, I think, and Stromboli is worth the detour. To sit on a spewing volcano, feeling the heat from the fiery earth warming your bum in the cold night while lava explodes into the air... it's like nothing else I've ever experienced.
posted by fingersandtoes at 6:59 PM on May 1, 2016
I'd be surprised if you have time for a ferry to Malta. But you can ferry from Naples to the Aeolian islands, I think, and Stromboli is worth the detour. To sit on a spewing volcano, feeling the heat from the fiery earth warming your bum in the cold night while lava explodes into the air... it's like nothing else I've ever experienced.
posted by fingersandtoes at 6:59 PM on May 1, 2016
A site near Naples that's completely unique, and entirely off the usual radar, is the rather mysterious Piscina Mirabilis. For full effect, avoid looking at any actual pictures beforehand, just read about it and then visit - when we went, the lady living just across the road from the tiny entrance gate had the key, acting as custode.
posted by progosk at 6:02 AM on May 2, 2016
posted by progosk at 6:02 AM on May 2, 2016
If you don't want to stay right in Naples, you could stay on the Sorrentine peninsula. From there, day trips all around the Amalfi coast are easy and it is more laid back and relaxing than Naples proper.
posted by soelo at 7:44 AM on May 2, 2016
posted by soelo at 7:44 AM on May 2, 2016
A couple more addresses, Conero and southwards:
- Umani Ronchi in Osimo make unique wines (their Pelago and Maximo are unforgettable).
- La Distesa in Cupramontana - it's both an agriturismo and a winery, working on the cutting edge of "natural" wines; the owner wrote a wonderful little book chronicling his descent/ascent into wine-making. If you liked Mondovino, here's a chance to meet a lucid contemporary wine-thinker (here's his blog, in Italian).
- If, instead of Tuscany, you'd consider taking the less beaten track round to Naples (along the Adriatic coast), there's a improbable, special little place you could stay, right on the water, just outside Vasto: Bagni Vittoria. (Memail me and I'll drop Luigi, the owner, a line.)
- If you're in that area, two singular places to eat: Lu Barrott', and Trabocco Cungarelle.
posted by progosk at 7:55 AM on May 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
- Umani Ronchi in Osimo make unique wines (their Pelago and Maximo are unforgettable).
- La Distesa in Cupramontana - it's both an agriturismo and a winery, working on the cutting edge of "natural" wines; the owner wrote a wonderful little book chronicling his descent/ascent into wine-making. If you liked Mondovino, here's a chance to meet a lucid contemporary wine-thinker (here's his blog, in Italian).
- If, instead of Tuscany, you'd consider taking the less beaten track round to Naples (along the Adriatic coast), there's a improbable, special little place you could stay, right on the water, just outside Vasto: Bagni Vittoria. (Memail me and I'll drop Luigi, the owner, a line.)
- If you're in that area, two singular places to eat: Lu Barrott', and Trabocco Cungarelle.
posted by progosk at 7:55 AM on May 2, 2016 [1 favorite]
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The archaeological museum in Naples is where a lot of the artifacts from Pompeii are displayed, so you'll want to visit there.
One thing to be aware of on your trip, because you don't really take this into account: the travel infrastructure of Italy, both rail and road, tends to stick to one side of the Appenines or the other. You're going to be crossing over for sure from Monte Conero to Campania, which will probably somewhat limit your route and what is "on the way"/feasible to see or do between those two points.
Stopping in southern Tuscany "on the way" from Modena to Monte Conero (wrong side of the mountains from both of those places) is also going to run into this problem. I spent a month last summer staying in that part of Tuscany, and it is really remote. Much more remote than you're giving credit to, here. For example, the village I stayed in, which is about 50 KM north of Tempe di Saturnia, is A) 2+ hours from Florence by car, and B) an hour's drive from Tempe di Saturnia.
There are no highways over the mountains. To get from place to place, especially anywhere that is not a major city, you have to take winding mountain roads where traffic moves slowly, especially if you're not used to driving in a foreign country in that type of landscape.
Your best bet for "what's on the way" or "what should we see" is probably to look at a road map of Italy and see which cities and towns are located near the highways you'll be using to navigate to and from the places that are already set in stone. For example, from Modena to Monte Conero, Bologna and Ravenna are obvious choices, while Pisa is not.
(Also, I know a fantastic winery at a 14th century castle on the slopes of Monte Amiata, if you really are DEAD SET on swinging down to remote rural Tuscany on this trip. MeMail me for details!)
posted by Sara C. at 1:28 PM on May 1, 2016 [3 favorites]