Hello Pittsburgh — vacation questions
August 8, 2013 7:45 AM   Subscribe

I am looking into a trip to Pittsburgh for a long weekend getaway in the Fall. Things we (two females/40ish) think would be fun:
  • The Mattress Factory
  • The Andy Warhol Museum
  • Fallingwater and maybe Kentuck Knob
    • Is there anything else not to miss?


Fallingwater is high on our list, but I have not been able to find many bus tours from Pittsburgh to Fallingwater. Are they any ones that you can suggest — or is it just better to rent a car? (We'll probably fly, but is possible for us to drive in less than a day so we might have a car.)

Hotels — we like hotels with some character that are mid-range to low high-end — we tend to like smaller hotels but dislike B&Bs. What are some suggestions for lodging? If a good place to stay is a bigger hotel — that's fine!

Food — Not to miss places? We are adventurous eaters with no dietary restrictions.

Looking forward to visiting this city and any other suggestions or tips are most appreciated.
posted by Lescha to Travel & Transportation around Pittsburgh, PA (24 answers total) 19 users marked this as a favorite
 
I know nothing about Pittsburgh, but if you do decide to rent a car for Fallingwater, look into advance booking the In-Depth Tour. It's twice as long as the regular tour, and they allow photography (which they don't on the regular tour). Smaller group, too. Kentuck Knob is totally worthwhile, as well. The sculpture garden is very cool.
posted by Kriesa at 7:57 AM on August 8, 2013 [1 favorite]


The Church Brew Works is always good. Good food, good beer, vaguely naughty feeling of drinking in a church. Always busy, but possible to get in on the pub side.

The Original Hot Dog shop is as good as they say it is. (Fourth-best in the US!) You can share the small fries. It's not too far from the Carnegie Museum of Art.

Speaking of which, the art museum will be having the triennial Carnegie International starting in October.

If you're doing Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob (both of which I'd highly recommend), you might be interested in the Alan Frank House. It's a masterwork by Gropius and Breuer. Not open to the public yet, but even just from the street, it's a stunner. They're working on it, and maybe you can visit when you return to Pittsburgh -- which you surely will.
posted by Capt. Renault at 8:03 AM on August 8, 2013 [4 favorites]


You have made an excellent decision, you won't be disappointed. Here are my recommendations.

Stay at the Courtyard in Homestead, PA. It's where the old Homestead Works used to be and you can still see the smokestacks. Now it's a shopping and dining destination at the riverfront.

There's an Eat n Park there, which is cheap and cheerful for breakfast, ask for 'Dippy Eggs' if you like them over easy. Or a Giant Eagle grocery for gas and snacks.

If you like Trolley Parks (and why wouldn't you?) Then check out Kennywood! They have Nationality and Community Days, which are a Blast! Hello Polish Day!

From the Courtyard, take the main road out, over the Homestead Grays bridge to Murray Ave. Get a Mineo's Pizza. It's a take out place, with a couple of plastic chairs, but MAN, that's good Pizza!

Head down to The Strip, go to the Heinz History Center. Have lunch at Primanti Brothers!

Go for a walk on the Mexican War Streets, you'll see art glass windows and adorable little houses.

Explore the Southside, Go from the Courtyard, across the railroad tracks and follow 837 to Carson Street. Good times will be had!

Take the Funicular/Incline from Station Square up Mount Washington, eat at a restaurant overlooking the city. Or check out the Grand Consourse if you want to eat dinner in a converted railway station.

I think the Warhol is Excellent!

I love Pittsburgh and it's been too damn long since I've been back!
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 8:08 AM on August 8, 2013 [6 favorites]


We ate at Wilson's Bar-B-Q after visiting The Mattress Factory. The best ribs I've ever had. Restaurant is a dive.
posted by deadweightloss at 8:09 AM on August 8, 2013 [1 favorite]


The Incline is fun. Also the Strip for lunch and shopping. FWIW, I have been very disappointed every time I've been to the Heinz History Center.
posted by jrichards at 8:10 AM on August 8, 2013


Do you like birds? And/or German food? Because Mattress Factory plus Aviary plus Penn Brewery is one of my favorite excursions in Pittsburgh.
posted by Stacey at 8:16 AM on August 8, 2013 [2 favorites]


(Oh -- and I would take a car. It's a fun drive, even if it can get a little intense in the city itself, with hills and blind turns and whatnot. GPS is your friend. But it's easy enough to throw the car in a garage when you're downtown or in Oakland or whatever, and walk from there. The bits are quite walkable. But between the bits, with any kind of distance, transit isn't the best. For getting to Fallingwater and Kentuck Knob, a car of your own is definitely the easiest way, particularly given their reservation windows.)
posted by Capt. Renault at 8:19 AM on August 8, 2013


You're gonna love the Mattress Factory - it's awesome! Some other stuff that seems up your alley:

- Conflict Kitchen (a restaurant which only serves cuisine from countries with whom the U.S. is in conflict.
- Trundle Manor (be sure to call well in advance): a weird, funky homage to roadside attractions.
- The Center For Post-Natural History
posted by julthumbscrew at 8:21 AM on August 8, 2013


If you have never had french fries in a salad, please order a steak salad. And pierogies. All the pierogies.
posted by jetlagaddict at 8:26 AM on August 8, 2013 [1 favorite]




I'm late to the party and most of the things I would recommend have already been mentioned (KennywoodKennywoodKennywoodKennywoodKENNYWOOD), but food-wise if you like vegan or vegetarian places I'd recommend grabbing brunch at Quiet Storm - my favorite is the nyam (coconut, sweet potatoes, bananas, polenta - you just can't go wrong with that) but really I've never had anything there that wasn't delicious.

Also, Kennywood. If you're there in the fall it's only open at certain times, mostly in the evening, but still. Kennywood. Don't miss the Kangaroo ride, or the Potato Patch fries with cheese.
posted by DingoMutt at 11:13 AM on August 8, 2013 [5 favorites]


I would suggest renting a car, not just for the above reasons (hills, they're everywhere here) but specifically for your drive to Fallingwater. The mountains and folliage in the surrounding area has the potential to be stunningly beautiful if you're here in autumn. Being on a bus, you won't have the ability to just pull off at a whim and gawk at nature.

And to reiterate an above point, because I always do on Mefi, absolutely do the sculpture garden tour at Kentuck Knob. Honestly, while the house is impressive (and I prefer it), the garden is one of my favorite places around.
posted by librarianamy at 12:19 PM on August 8, 2013


And if you like to tour old, stately homes, The Frick House!
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 12:23 PM on August 8, 2013


Definitely rent a car and drive to Fallingwater. The scenery is spectacular, especially in the fall. You will not be disappointed.

For hotels, there is the Priory if you are looking for a Boutique style on the North Shore. My parents like to stay at the Renaissance Pittsburgh, which is located downtown.

For breakfast, try Enrico's Biscotti Cafe in the Strip. So, so good. There are also the long standing favorites of Deluca's, Pamela's, the Coca Cafe, the Square Cafe... Pittsburgh has a ridiculous number of options when it comes to breakfast/brunch.
posted by theBigRedKittyPurrs at 12:56 PM on August 8, 2013


Drive to Falling Water, by all means, but for god's sake DO NOT DRIVE IN PITTSBURGH! Our streets are maddening to newcomers; all known maps are incorrect; and missing one connecting street can sometimes mean a 3-mile detour through a mountain and back.

My 2c. Enjoy our beautiful city!
posted by IAmBroom at 1:00 PM on August 8, 2013 [1 favorite]


Ft. Pitt.
The History museum has displays about Heinz.
posted by brujita at 2:36 PM on August 8, 2013


I would absolutely get a car for Pittsburgh. The buses work but aren't...delightful. Do not be scared of the maddening streets, just take it easy and watch out for people making a left just as the light turns!

If you're a bar fan, do me a favor and go to Gooski's and get some pierogies and Yuengling. And The Sharp Edge for some Belgian brews. When I was in school my folks always stayed at the Shadyside Inn which is a nice smaller non-Marriott (or whatever) option in a very walkable neighborhood.

For touristy stuff I'd also recommend the Phipp's Conservatory if you happen to be in the Oakland-ish area (around Pitt or CMU).
posted by thirdletter at 5:41 PM on August 8, 2013


For your day going to/from Fallingwater (a must see) and Kentuck Knob (even better than Fallingwater) the best restaurant on the route is Out of the Fire cafe in Donegal. Not the best restaurant ever but the best on your route.

For your day on the north side (Mattress Factory and Warhol) there is Max's German restaurant and Nicky's Thai Kitchen - both worth a drive and not to be missed if you are right there. This is very near the Aviary too but I wouldn't really recommend unless you love birds, it is the National Aviary but it is also birds.

Driving is tough in Pittsburgh. You need a GPS. But buses might be worse.

I agree with Ruthless Bunny's tip on the Frick - great story, great grounds, great house, great cafe and lots to do and see in this area. I do disagree with Kennywood as fitting in to your long weekend unless you just love amusement parks - takes too much time, not unique enough, lines longer than Disney.

An incline ride is so Pittsburgh. Touristy places at the top and bottom.

The strip on Saturday morning is worth the crowds - Enrico's, street Asian food - mung bean spicy greasy pancakes, street tacos, homemade tortillas at Reyna's, Penzey's spices, Asian groceries, street pepperoni rolls, cheeses to die for at Macaroni Company. Not on a Saturday is less crowded and still almost all the same options. Great sushi at Penn Avenue Fish Market.
posted by RoadScholar at 6:26 PM on August 8, 2013 [1 favorite]


No one has mentioned the Cathedral of Learning?! The Nationality Classrooms are really neat, and definitely worth an afternoon.
posted by quadrilaterals at 10:18 AM on August 9, 2013 [2 favorites]


(I'm actually writing this response from the Holiday Inn Express at Donegal, PA, having visited Kentuck Knob & Falling Water today.)

You can actually stay in a Frank Lloyd Wright House a short drive away, Duncan House at Polymath Park.

Another lodging option in the area is Falling Rock at the Nemacolin, inspired by Frank Lloyd Wright. The resort is not cheap but does have the best restaurants in the area (Lautrec being one). However, they're pricey and upscale.

You absolutely will want a car. We spent two hours at Kentuck Knob. We spent almost four at Falling Water. Take your time to explore. The former is a more modest, Usonian house, owned by a quirky British Lord. The other is a stunning complex with a guest house, servants quarters, trails around it, two lookout points, etc. We did the Sunset Tour at Falling Water, which is only ten people max, allows interior photography (the Regular tours are exterior only), does not rush you, and ends with snacks on the terrace overlooking Bear Run river, with your tour guide (cheese, salami, olives, hummus, crackers, etc.). It was a great experience that went from 4:45 to 7:30pm. We got there about an hour earlier to walk the grounds, which close at 6pm.

You also can't bring in any purses or bags bigger than 10x10x3 inches, due to the narrow hallways. Be prepared to put bags in the trunk of your car, or check them into a locker. Cell signal is also very weak at both Kentuck Knob and Falling Water, so your phone will drain its batteries VERY quickly looking for signal. Bring extra camera batteries, too. Several in our group drained theirs during the Falling Water tour.

Between Kentuck Knob and Falling Water, we also stopped in the tiny town of Ohiopyle for lunch. Ate outside and then sat by the river for a while. The weather was nice, and I wished for a blanket and a picnic, instead of an OK salad from the local pub. Many people were wading into the river or going kayaking and rafting.

The food options near Kentuck Knob and Fallingwater leave much to be desired. Out of the Fire Cafe is pretty good, especially for the area. Liked their 5 hour cold smoked ribeye, a special of seared duck breast, and a blackened scallop appetizer. It's by the turnpike, however, so it really only makes sense on your way to KK/FW or way back from.
posted by kathryn at 7:58 PM on August 10, 2013 [1 favorite]


Also, make a reservation if you're considering Out of the Fire Cafe for dinner on a weekend night. It's popular. They were quoting 45 minute waits for two to the people after us on Friday night.
posted by kathryn at 8:05 PM on August 10, 2013


My wife and I have been bouncing around ideas for a long weekend in mid-Septemeber and this thread just convinced me to make the destination Pittsburgh. I don't think either of us has ever set foot in the city. And by lucky coincidence (cough, cough) the weekend I suggested just happens to be a weekend the Pirates are in town, so we can go to a game too.
posted by COD at 1:04 PM on August 14, 2013


Homestead used to be a giant, historic steel mill. Now, it's just another shopping mall. Unless you're planning to spend a bunch of time at the Sandcastle waterpark, there's little reason to stay at the hotels there--it's a half-step up from staying at an airport hotel, and half that step is because the airport here is almost an hour out of town. It's also clear across town from most of what you want to do. (Eat 'n' Park and Giant Eagle? Seriously? Might as well stay home and go to Denny's and Kroger. They're our regional chains, not local landmarks.... As for Brew Works, skip Church and go straight to Roundabout for beer made by the man who made Church worth going to.)

The Priory or the Inn on the Mexican War Streets might walk the line between what you like in a small hotel and what you hate about a b&b. Both are close to the Mattress Factory and Warhol Museums, and within walking distance of Downtown and (depending on your definition of walking distance) the Strip District. In the eastern part of town, Shadyside Inn and the Mansions on Fifth sound right up your alley, while the Inn on Negley, Sunnyledge and Mansion at Maple Heights may be a bit more B&B-like than you prefer.

In addition to the aforementioned Renaissance, Downtown also has a Fairmont, a Wyndham, a Westin, an Omni, a Doubletree, a Marriott; across the river at Station Square there's a Sheraton. There are some typical chain hotels near the stadiums (and, by extension, the Warhol), most of which have other branches around town, including at the Waterfront and on the South Shore at South Side Works (another steel mill-turned-mall, but much closer to town). There's a Hampton in the Strip across from the Heinz History/Sports Museum. In Oakland, 3 miles east of Downtown and walking distance to the Carnegie Museums and Cathedral of Learning, there's another Wyndham, a Hilton, another Hampton, and a couple others.

Public transit isn't particularly cheap here, but if you stay in the centre of town, you can walk to most things, then drive to the Frank Lloyd Wright houses, Bayernhof, etc. If you're familiar with public transit in other large cities, Pittsburgh's will probably be tolerable, and you won't have to deal with bizarre, illegal local customs like the Pittsburgh Left and the strange habit of not signalling until you're already halfway through a turn. In particular, if you end up flying in and staying in or near Downtown, look to the 28X; it takes a little longer to get to town, but doesn't cost $20+ a night to park. There are multiple rental agencies with offices downtown for when you do need a car, and Zipcar and bike rental are also both available here.
posted by FlyingMonkey at 4:22 PM on September 3, 2013


We spent the weekend in Pittsburgh and I wrote up a blog post on my impressions.

Contrary to the statement above - it's not an hour from the airport hotels to downtown. It's about 20 minutes.

Take the warnings about driving in Pittsburgh seriously. The problem isn't the drivers, they annoyed me far less than the drivers here at home in the DC area. It's the roads. They have roads that run parallel at slightly different elevations, and my GPS was constantly confused about what road we were actually on. If I was one of those people that blindly followed the GPS directions you would have read about me driving into the river :)

Enjoy Pittsburgh - we had a great time.
posted by COD at 5:56 AM on September 23, 2013 [3 favorites]


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