Staring at the asphalt wondering what's buried underneath
May 15, 2009 6:57 AM   Subscribe

Washington, DC - My girlfriend and I are going to DC next weekend. I've spent about a day in DC, and she's never been there, but we're considering living there at some point in the distant future. What should we do over the weekend to start getting a feel for whether we'd enjoy living there?

We're relatively uninterested in touristy stuff -- sight-seeing, museums, monuments. Nothing against any of that, but we'd rather save it for another time. Right now, what we want to do is get a feel for what it would be like to actually live our day-to-day lives there (realizing it's probably impossible to fully absorb this in just a weekend).

We're more looking for ... a nice cafe, a not-super-expensive restaurant with some kind of interesting ambience/concept, neighborhoods that are worth checking out, etc. But please suggest any ideas you have -- it doesn't need to fit into one of those categories.

I know this is a vague question, but we're in a vague situation.

Location: we'll be arriving at Union Square, and staying around Dupont Circle.

Possibly relevant notes: (1) We're vegetarians. (2) We're not interested in anything sports-related. (3) We won't have a car there over the weekend, and probably wouldn't have a car if we actually moved there either.
posted by Jaltcoh to Travel & Transportation around Washington, DC (27 answers total) 7 users marked this as a favorite
 
Are you staying in a hotel? Maybe consider doing some sort of housing swap/weekend sublet in the neighborhood you might want to move to, to get a feel for the public transportation situation/local cafe's, etc.
posted by roomthreeseventeen at 6:59 AM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: Are you staying in a hotel?

Yes.
posted by Jaltcoh at 7:02 AM on May 15, 2009


Teaism might fit your cafe or restaurant category and has some veggie dishes: Teaism at Dupont Circle. I've never been there, but my friends always recommend it.
posted by hellogoodbye at 7:03 AM on May 15, 2009 [1 favorite]


Rent bikes and pedal around a few neighborhoods (like Woodley Park, Logan Circle, and Capitol Hill) to get an idea of the range of options. DC's a fairly compact city, so you can get from one area to another fairly easily...and you can take bikes on the Metro too if you want to go from one end of the city to the other more quickly.
posted by kittyprecious at 7:10 AM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: We plan to get around by foot and the Metro.
posted by Jaltcoh at 7:10 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: Your plan is pretty much how we ended up moving here over ten years ago. We stayed up in Cleveland Park, and spent a lot of time just wandering around the neiborhoods, stopping in at cafes and bars and such, and just getting a feel for the place.

Teaism is a good bet--I always enjoy the place. Nothing spectacular, but you will get a good glimpse of DC social life there, I think. Then head generally north-east from there, maybe up Florida then up 18th, especially if it's during the day-time. Adams Morgan is a cool, funky place during the day, but is pretty much over-run with frat-boy partiers at night. I recommend Amsterdam Falafel Shop. If you keep going, you can explore Columbia Heights, too, where normal people can still just about afford to live. Then maybe come back along 16th, wandering through Meridian Hill Park (which all the locals call Malcolm X Park), and branch out along U Street, maybe stopping in at Cake Love or having dinner at one of the fabulous Ethiopian restaurants (Dukem's good, but there are others)--both are veggie friendly.

DC has great suburbs, too--the best ethnic food is out in Falls Church and Annandale, and Takoma Park still has a nice hippie vibe. But I think you can get a good feel for the area, good and bad, with that itenerary.
posted by MrMoonPie at 7:19 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: The Farmer's Market in Eastern Market is an great place to pick up delicious fresh food, and its right in a cute neighborhood too!
posted by BusyBusyBusy at 7:25 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: Cafe wise (I'm thinking coffee shop) I like Cafe Mayorga in Silver Spring and Firehook in Cleveland Park. Kramer's books in Dupont is a great restaraunt/book store in Dupont Circle.
I like Open City in Woodley Park too as more of cafe brunch place.

Cheap restaraunts, look into the Washingtonians Cheap Eats section. Grab Ethopian Food on U Street, Sticky Fingers Vegan bakery near Columbia heights, Matchbox in China Town for pizza, visit eastern market.

Read DCist.com for what's going entertainment wise.

Neighborhoods all near metro worth checking out. Downtown Silver Spring, Dupont Circle, U-Street, Columbia Heights, Adams-Morgan (for restaraunts).

I don't know much about the VA subarbs to give recs.

Hope you enjoy your time in DC
posted by akabobo at 7:28 AM on May 15, 2009 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: Thanks everyone for the suggestions so far, and please keep 'em coming. I should add that we're only planning to stay within DC proper; the suburbs etc. aren't on our radar screen for next weekend -- there just isn't time.
posted by Jaltcoh at 7:33 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: A nice cafe: Open City in Woodley Park

A not-super-expensive restaurant with some kind of interesting ambience/concept: The best vegetarian restaurant in town is Vegetate, near the convention center. Jose Andres's restaurants are also quite great and don't break the bank: Jaleo (Spanish) and Oyamel (micro-region Mexican) are my personal favorites. Mark's Kitchen out by Takoma Station is also great and vegetarian-friendly.

Neighborhoods to check out: In my own personal opinion, the best night life is U street these days. Columbia Heights (my neck of the woods) is also worth checking out (good spots to check out in that area are Commonwealth (British gastro-pub), Red Derby (neighborhood joint specializing in beers in cans), Wonderland (neighborhood joint), and Looking Glass Lounge (another neighborhood spot). Also on the radar is the H St NE area (although a little off the beaten path). Places out there worth checking out: the Argonaut, Rock and Roll Hotel, Palace of Wonders, the Pug, and sadly, you can't experience the mussels at Granville More's.

Also, in case you're wondering, you can do just fine in this city with no car.
posted by General Malaise at 7:36 AM on May 15, 2009 [2 favorites]


Just moved up here and started working in the city. I'd say it's a very walkable city. I've found yelp pretty useful for finding places to try - they even break it down by neighborhood. No other rec's since I'm so new here.
posted by anti social order at 7:38 AM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: Also, in case you're wondering, you can do just fine in this city with no car....

Just moved up here and started working in the city. I'd say it's a very walkable city...


Oh, I'm already convinced about the walkability. We're both used to NYC and find it easy to get around there purely by foot and the subway.
posted by Jaltcoh at 7:43 AM on May 15, 2009


I think you should check out Kramers Books & Afterwords. Its a book store with a restaurant/cafe attached. Its on Connecticut Ave, right near the circle so you can just walk over. Good food too.
posted by eightball at 8:04 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: I used to love the original Food for Thought at Dupont, so try Food for Thought at the Black Cat. (I have not.)

I think you would love living in Takoma Park. The stop is on the Red Line.
posted by jgirl at 8:28 AM on May 15, 2009


Seconding Ethiopian restaurants - Dukem, Etete, Addis Ababa. They're my second fondest memory of DC (first is proposing to my wife -- we had Ethiopian that weekend, though. Coincidence?) It is full of unexpected tastes so an open mind is a plus, but it certainly is a fun experience.
posted by jake at 8:29 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: Open City is great, as is Kramerbooks. I also recommend going to Eastern Market; even though the market proper is still under repair after a big fire last year, the street fair is lovely.

Depending on your price range for an apartment, I'd recommend looking at some of the less trendy neighborhoods as well. In Dupont, you'll pay NY-like rents. But if you're willing to go to Columbia Heights, Petworth, or Bloomingdale, you'll pay a lot less, and there's some lovely architecture in those neighborhoods.

Visit any neighborhood you're thinking of living in both during the day and at night. Many neighborhoods take on a somewhat different feel after dark (because DC has so many commuters, places where business is booming during the workday will often be deserted at night).

I moved here from NY a few years ago. It is harder here to get around without a car (metro stops are farther apart in a lot of places than the NY subway stops, and the metro doesn't go everywhere you'll want to go all the time), but I've gotten used to it. It's also a lot easier now that grocery stores deliver and there's a Target in the city proper. Now if I could only find someplace that will pick up and deliver fluff-and-fold laundry at a reasonable price...
posted by decathecting at 8:39 AM on May 15, 2009 [2 favorites]


Response by poster: I moved here from NY a few years ago. It is harder here to get around without a car (metro stops are farther apart in a lot of places than the NY subway stops, and the metro doesn't go everywhere you'll want to go all the time), but I've gotten used to it.

OK, point taken about the Metro stops, but I'm also considering how pleasant the Metro is to use in DC, and how much smaller the city as a whole is. Both of us have gone our whole lives without cars, living in places that are less walkable than either DC or NYC. I'm not worried.
posted by Jaltcoh at 8:43 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: General vegetarian info at VegDC.

I'm a big fan of Teaism, and was recently introduced to the awesomeness of Amsterdam Falafel.

DC is kind of a small town, and there are good and bad things about that. I second the thought that sections of town become deserted evenings and weekends.
posted by JoanArkham at 8:47 AM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: a nice cafe

Patisserie Poupon and Peregrine Espresso have the best coffee in D.C., and are nice places to sit for a while. If you're near the White House / Renwick / Corcoran, M.E. Swing is also very good (not much ambiance, but they're one of only a handful of places roasting beans locally). If you find yourself up on H Street, Sidamo Coffee and Tea is well worth stopping by, too.

a not-super-expensive restaurant with some kind of interesting ambience/concept

Thai X-ing
Java Green
Soul Vegetarian

If you're interested in local food, the Dupont Circle and Mt. Pleasant farmers' market are happening next weekend.

neighborhoods that are worth checking out, etc.

Brookland
Capitol Hill
H Street / Near Northeast
LeDroit Park
Mt. Pleasant
Takoma
posted by ryanshepard at 8:55 AM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: Thanks, everyone, for all the suggestions -- we'll definitely be using some of these. I can't mark best answers yet since I don't know enough.

I'm sure we'll check this thread again right before we leave (in about a week), so if you're getting to this late, it would still be worth leaving a comment anytime in the next few days.
posted by Jaltcoh at 9:45 AM on May 15, 2009


Oh, I forgot to mention:
The best coffee shop in town in Big Bear Cafe in Eckington (a little off the beaten path, but walkable from various directions).

And, the best deli in town is Taylor on H Street.
posted by General Malaise at 11:14 AM on May 15, 2009 [2 favorites]


Having left Fort Greene for Silver Spring two years ago, let me say, in full disclosure, that I still miss NYC every day.

I favorited decathecting's comment because she's right about walkability/needing a car (and also about Kramerbooks and Eastern Market: get the bluebucks at Eastern Market, and then walk around Capitol Hill, a beautiful neighborhood).

Without a car, you'll miss out on more in DC than you ever would in NYC. More of DC's cultural life (especially its ethnic cultural life) is lived in metro-inaccessible suburban areas, or areas a lot less accessible than what you're used to in NYC. For example, the heart of Vietnamese DC is Seven Corners, an area literally defined by the intersection of five multi-lane roads. This is in marked contrast to the cluster of ethnic neighborhoods along the 7 train in Queens or along the N train in Sunset Park.

Finding a cool coffeehouse in a trendy or gentrifying DC neighborhood is easy (although I'm not knocking any of the previous posts; they're good answers to your question about how to spend the weekend.) Just try not to be surprised (but you will be, and I still am) if/when you move down here and find out from the Wa.Po. or Tyler Cowen, or some Chowhound thread that the best [random ethnicity] restaurant is in a stripmall eight miles outside the Beltway in Olney or two miles from a metro station on Rockville Pike.

But if you managed to enjoy living in cities even less pedestrian friendly than DC, then good luck, welcome, and enjoy the humidity. Please update us after your weekend.
posted by hhc5 at 11:28 AM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: But if you managed to enjoy living in cities even less pedestrian friendly than DC, then good luck, welcome, and enjoy the humidity.

I doubt it's worse than Austin.
posted by Jaltcoh at 12:01 PM on May 15, 2009


Response by poster: Without a car, you'll miss out on ... an area literally defined by the intersection of five multi-lane roads.

Thanks for reminding me what I like about not having a car!
posted by Jaltcoh at 12:04 PM on May 15, 2009


There's a Greek festival on Saturday on Massachusetts Avenue. This is the kind of thing I love DC for - completely random but fascinating free events. Pretty much any day you are free there is something to do. I find myself with conflicting things I'd like to do far more often than I find myself sitting around twiddling my thumbs. Sunday Dave Barry is doing the Post Hunt.

Check out Cultural Tourism DC for other events.

I'll second Teaism for good, relatively inexpensive food.
A DC fad that is hard to understand but fun to participate in is the city's obsession with cupcakes. There is a store right in Dupont Circle called Hello Cupcake! Not sure if they're any good, to be honest. If you're craving other sweets, ACKC at P & 14th (more or less) is excellent for all things chocolate. Get the peanut butter pie, if they have it. If not, the cookie cupcake is fantastic.

And finally one general tip: if you're going to the Smithsonian museums (which far too few locals do, btw), don't plan to eat down there. It's all overpriced garbage. My recommendation for food in that area would be Potbelly (an excellent local sandwich chain) but the best you're going to do veggie-wise is the grilled cheese, though they have plenty of veggies available. Think Quizno's but cheaper, better, and quirkier.

Good luck and welcome!
posted by AquaAmber at 12:49 PM on May 15, 2009


Best answer: If you'll forgive some blatant self-promotion, our blog We Love DC has some tourism entries as well as a few other categories that might motivate you to some less touristy things, like our recurring bit on monuments.

I know you said you weren't interested in monuments but we've tried to do the smaller and less obvious ones for the most part - the prominent things that are scattered all over the city and that you somewhat come to be blind to. Walking by all these statues and plaques IS part of living in the city.

If you're a vegetarian and staying in Dupont you owe it to yourself to check out the veggie burger at Science Club. Amsterdam Falafel, which MrMoonpie's suggested, is also one of my favorites.

Take a walk through Rock Creek Park too. Chances are it won't be as much a part of your daily life in the city as you will want it to be, but it's nice.

I think if I were you I might go look at places on housingmaps.com and look at the kind of places you think you'd want and could afford, then go look at what they and their neighborhood look like in real life.
posted by phearlez at 1:08 PM on May 15, 2009 [2 favorites]


Love Amsterdam Falafel. Cheap, and the food is delicious. Java Green is v good vegetarian/vegan food, they're mostly lunchtime/weekday hours I think.. they're also opening another place, more of a restaurant, on 17th St near Dupont. Mark's Kitchen in Takoma Park is real cool and always there for you, that part of Takoma Park in general is nice to visit, it's a great way to get some distance from the city but still near the metro.

For nightlife I def recommend walking around U St, you could go from the foot of Adams Morgan at 18th and U over all the way to around 9th and U, you'll pass a lot of bars/restaurants, and at 14th and U.. down the street is the Black Cat, St Ex (which is kind of awful on weekends due to the crowds) and Bar Pilar (which is better but weekends.. crowded), Cork just about across the street.. just north of the 14th and U intersection is Marvin which is a wonderful place to hang out (uh.. crowded). Also 14th and U you might try the Saloon for drinks, it's friendly and laid back and not *as* crowded since they don't allow people to stand.. toward 11th/10th and U are some fantastic Ethiopian restaurants (I like Dukem a lot).

Adams Morgan on weekends is an absolute nightmare because there are so many people. It's nice weekdays though. Sensing a theme here? I think it's better to go out on the weekdays and stay in on Friday/Saturday because all the best bars are packed (or seats reserved), which is annoying. I guess I'm getting a little weary of DC myself..

Kramerbooks is a neat shop to visit but if people are recommending to try the food there, I'd have to dissent, there are many many better options. That particular stretch of Dupont doesn't actually have much in the way of decent food, surprisingly, I guess Bistrot du Coin might be all right (I haven't been there in ages).
posted by citron at 1:28 PM on May 15, 2009 [1 favorite]


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