Questions about purchasing a used motorcycle
August 8, 2006 10:32 PM Subscribe
Some questions about buying a used motorcycle.
I know cars usually get about 200K miles before anything really major goes but what about a motorcycle?
How long do the tires usually last and how much to replace them?
What about the clutch?
Where do I get it fixed?
How often do I have to change the oil and does it have anything else that needs regular maintenance like that?
What do I have to do to winterize it?
I won't be spending much, $~2K sport-tourer ~500cc, any bikes you would recommend or recommend that I avoid?
Anything else I should know?
I know cars usually get about 200K miles before anything really major goes but what about a motorcycle?
How long do the tires usually last and how much to replace them?
What about the clutch?
Where do I get it fixed?
How often do I have to change the oil and does it have anything else that needs regular maintenance like that?
What do I have to do to winterize it?
I won't be spending much, $~2K sport-tourer ~500cc, any bikes you would recommend or recommend that I avoid?
Anything else I should know?
I think most motorbikes go through their cycle of needing a lot of things replaced at about 60k. A chain and sprockets wouldn't last longer than that (cue the BMW crowd gloating about shaft drive).
Tyres are very easy to inspect visually to know how far gone they are. It all depends on the hardness of them. Tourer tyres will last 10000km or more, soft sports tyres will average about 3 - 4000 (though I've done some in 1500 km). Look for how far up the side wall they're worn, if it comes close to the lip they (and the bike) has been ridden hard, which can be a danger sign. I'd pay about about AU$500 for some Michelin pilot sports (excellent tyres) but you should get something more hard wearing and durable.
Crash damage is best detected on the head of the bike, where the forks meet the body. Look for different paint, ugly welds. Also check for leaking fork seals, they can be a bit of a problem. Don't worry about scratches on the exhaust or pegs though, we all get them.
Motorbikes are still much more home-workshoppable than cars. If you're up for it, get a manual and do stuff on it yourself (but not the brakes, never the brakes). I've never needed to replace a clutch, I'd just send it to any bike mechanic I'm sure it's not too major.
The main maintenance you've got to look for is the chain. Keep it appropriately lubricated and at the right tension. That is important. Of course, the Honda CBR1100 (which may be in your price range) is shaft drive, as are the aforementioned Beemers (which will be too expensive).
Fairings are expensive and fragile. If you're looking for a cheap bike and don't want to spend a bomb keeping it neat, go for something with less or no fairing.
posted by wilful at 11:28 PM on August 8, 2006 [1 favorite]
Tyres are very easy to inspect visually to know how far gone they are. It all depends on the hardness of them. Tourer tyres will last 10000km or more, soft sports tyres will average about 3 - 4000 (though I've done some in 1500 km). Look for how far up the side wall they're worn, if it comes close to the lip they (and the bike) has been ridden hard, which can be a danger sign. I'd pay about about AU$500 for some Michelin pilot sports (excellent tyres) but you should get something more hard wearing and durable.
Crash damage is best detected on the head of the bike, where the forks meet the body. Look for different paint, ugly welds. Also check for leaking fork seals, they can be a bit of a problem. Don't worry about scratches on the exhaust or pegs though, we all get them.
Motorbikes are still much more home-workshoppable than cars. If you're up for it, get a manual and do stuff on it yourself (but not the brakes, never the brakes). I've never needed to replace a clutch, I'd just send it to any bike mechanic I'm sure it's not too major.
The main maintenance you've got to look for is the chain. Keep it appropriately lubricated and at the right tension. That is important. Of course, the Honda CBR1100 (which may be in your price range) is shaft drive, as are the aforementioned Beemers (which will be too expensive).
Fairings are expensive and fragile. If you're looking for a cheap bike and don't want to spend a bomb keeping it neat, go for something with less or no fairing.
posted by wilful at 11:28 PM on August 8, 2006 [1 favorite]
Oh, nothing to do with buying a bike, everything to do with riding one: the pace.
posted by wilful at 11:33 PM on August 8, 2006
posted by wilful at 11:33 PM on August 8, 2006
Adam Glass's Used Motorcycle Evaluation Guide is a must-read for you. The most uncarlike thing about bike maintenance for me is tires; tires can easily offset the gas savings of bike vs. car.
posted by mendel at 4:17 AM on August 9, 2006
posted by mendel at 4:17 AM on August 9, 2006
spacewrench covered your questions pretty well. i have three quick things to add:
TAKE THE MSF COURSE. This will not only help you learn to ride safely, but will also give you a good feeling for the size and weight of a motorcycle which will really help you when you are shopping for one.
my previous question on a few models of bike that tend a bit more towards 'standards' than 'sport tourers,' but should give you a good jumping-off point.
Finaly, my favorite motorcycle forum, Motorcycle USA, will be top-notch in answering all your questions and more (and i'm pretty sure they're based in CA so you might even find someone who can help you locate an independent shop which is really the only way to go if you don't have friends to help you maintain and fix your bike, DO NOT PAY DEALERSHIPS to fix your bike, you'll always overpay).
Enjoy the Ride!
posted by iurodivii at 5:11 AM on August 9, 2006
TAKE THE MSF COURSE. This will not only help you learn to ride safely, but will also give you a good feeling for the size and weight of a motorcycle which will really help you when you are shopping for one.
my previous question on a few models of bike that tend a bit more towards 'standards' than 'sport tourers,' but should give you a good jumping-off point.
Finaly, my favorite motorcycle forum, Motorcycle USA, will be top-notch in answering all your questions and more (and i'm pretty sure they're based in CA so you might even find someone who can help you locate an independent shop which is really the only way to go if you don't have friends to help you maintain and fix your bike, DO NOT PAY DEALERSHIPS to fix your bike, you'll always overpay).
Enjoy the Ride!
posted by iurodivii at 5:11 AM on August 9, 2006
Spacewrench covered everything superbly but I'd like to address this point:
posted by ChuckLeChuck at 6:45 AM on August 9, 2006
What do I have to do to winterize it?I agree with everything here but the bit about running the bike for a few minutes every week or two. Unless you can ride it for 20 minutes or more best not to run it at all. You'll get carbon build-up in the engine if it runs only a short time. Running it for 20 minutes or more is probably only a good idea if you live in an area that doesn't salt the roads.
Winterize by changing oil, filling up gas and adding stabilizer. It's not a bad idea to start it up and run it for a few minutes (at least) once every week or two.
posted by ChuckLeChuck at 6:45 AM on August 9, 2006
Chain drives require more maintenance than most riders give them. Dry chains wear out quickly. To check a chain for wear, grab one link near the back of the rear sprocket with your thumb & forefinger and pull. If you can pull it away far enough to see the peak of the sprocket tooth, the chain is toast. The sprocket teeth should have a compound ('S'-shaped) profile; if either side is concave from valley to peak, the sprocket is worn out. Front sprockets wear faster than rear ones.
If the wheels have spokes ("wire wheels"), make sure the spokes are tight and the rims run true. Loose spokes break.
Carry a metal or plywood pad to put under the kickstand on hot days if you park on asphalt. Asphalt gets really soft when it's hot, and your bike will fall over if the kickstand sinks in.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 6:50 AM on August 9, 2006
If the wheels have spokes ("wire wheels"), make sure the spokes are tight and the rims run true. Loose spokes break.
Carry a metal or plywood pad to put under the kickstand on hot days if you park on asphalt. Asphalt gets really soft when it's hot, and your bike will fall over if the kickstand sinks in.
posted by Kirth Gerson at 6:50 AM on August 9, 2006
I was going to link the used bike eval guide but Mendel beat me to it. My only further advice is you might want to find a friend who's got some bike knowledge and take him/her with you when you go bike shopping.
Also, it should be fairly easy to tell if you're buying from someone who has maintained the bike properly. If the seller can't tell you the last time the oil was changed, for instance, you're probably better off not buying from that person.
posted by scratch at 7:32 AM on August 9, 2006
Also, it should be fairly easy to tell if you're buying from someone who has maintained the bike properly. If the seller can't tell you the last time the oil was changed, for instance, you're probably better off not buying from that person.
posted by scratch at 7:32 AM on August 9, 2006
How often do I have to change the oil and does it have anything else that needs regular maintenance like that?
It's going to depend on the bike you get to determine what kind of maintenance schedule it will need eg: disk brakes vs drum brakes, chain drive vs belt or shaft driven. In general it'll be things like checking brake wear, making sure the brake fluid is topped up, adjusting cables and levers, checking tire pressure etc.
What do I have to do to winterize it?
Check the electrolyte levels in the battery and top them up with distilled water (tap water will ruin a battery) and use a battery tender to keep the battery charged during the winter. If you can, put the bike on its centre stand to prevent flat spots developing on your tires. Spray oil down in to the cylinder barrels (via the spark plug holes) to prevent rust forming on the cylinders, pistons and piston rings.
I wouldn't run the bike for a few minutes every week or two either, with some bikes you actually might be doing harm because of how the lubrication system is designed to work.
Anything else I should know?
Get a Clymer manual for your bike, they're invaluable to have around and will cover all maintenance questions you have as well as the bike specs (types of oil needed, spark plugs etc).
posted by squeak at 8:14 AM on August 9, 2006
It's going to depend on the bike you get to determine what kind of maintenance schedule it will need eg: disk brakes vs drum brakes, chain drive vs belt or shaft driven. In general it'll be things like checking brake wear, making sure the brake fluid is topped up, adjusting cables and levers, checking tire pressure etc.
What do I have to do to winterize it?
Check the electrolyte levels in the battery and top them up with distilled water (tap water will ruin a battery) and use a battery tender to keep the battery charged during the winter. If you can, put the bike on its centre stand to prevent flat spots developing on your tires. Spray oil down in to the cylinder barrels (via the spark plug holes) to prevent rust forming on the cylinders, pistons and piston rings.
I wouldn't run the bike for a few minutes every week or two either, with some bikes you actually might be doing harm because of how the lubrication system is designed to work.
Anything else I should know?
Get a Clymer manual for your bike, they're invaluable to have around and will cover all maintenance questions you have as well as the bike specs (types of oil needed, spark plugs etc).
posted by squeak at 8:14 AM on August 9, 2006
This thread is closed to new comments.
How long do the tires usually last and how much to replace them?
Tires depend strongly on the rider and type of riding. I get 8-10K from a set easily, but I know people whose tires are toast after 1.5K. Sets run from about $150 to about $400.
What about the clutch?
You can fry a clutch if you really work at it (stunting, drag racing, etc), and allegedly if you use really slippery oil with friction modifiers, but it's never happened to me.
Where do I get it fixed?
You can fix most things yourself, if you have a modicum of mechanical talent. In SoCal, there are a bunch of bikers who'd be happy to help out (check out labiker.com). Probably similar groups elsewhere. In SoCal at least, many/most motocycle dealerships' mechanics are ABYSMAL. You WILL get ripped off, and your bike WILL have long-lasting, expensive problems. Really, fix it yourself.
How often do I have to change the oil...
Oil changes at 2.5K~5K, just like a car. I run Mobil-1 in my bikes and change at about 5K. I could probably go longer, but why? Valves get checked every 12K-15K once you get past the breakin period, and the shop manual will list everything else that needs regular attention.
The big thing is riding it. If you use it every few days, it'll last a lot longer than if it sits in the garage (or worse, outside) for weeks at a time.
What do I have to do to winterize it?
Winterize by changing oil, filling up gas and adding stabilizer. It's not a bad idea to start it up and run it for a few minutes (at least) once every week or two.
any bikes you would recommend...
I wouldn't buy a Suzuki if warranty support means anything to you, but the SV650 is a pretty good bike. It's hard to go wrong with a Honda. Dunno what Yamaha and Kawi have in the 500cc, sport-tour department.
Anything else I should know?
Take the MSF course. Buy a naked bike if it's your first ride -- you'll drop it, and plastic is expensive.
Good luck.
posted by spacewrench at 10:53 PM on August 8, 2006 [1 favorite]