how to get pants to fit properly?
October 12, 2013 11:33 AM Subscribe
Almost every pair of pants I've ever worn has had the same problems, except one pair I found in a thrift shop a couple of years ago. I'm starting to wonder whether my proportions are just outside the range served by most stores: should I be shopping at some sort of specialty store for the misshapen? I'll give my measurements and describe my fit problems inside. I'd appreciate any advice on how exactly I'm deviating from manufacturers' expectations and what I can do to wear normal clothes. Minor alterations are within my budget; made-to-measure and bespoke are not.
My measurements are 31" waist, 42" hips, and thighs tapering from 26" at the top to 18" just above the knee. I'm looking for your bog-standard pair of woolen trousers.
Almost every pair of pants I've ever worn has had the same problems. They are too tight around the thighs and butt, they are too loose around the waist, and they deform in a vaguely obscene way when I sit: the waistband pulls down and bows out in the back, and the crotch tents forward into this big beak. This is after I get a tailor to take in the waist. I've tried pleated and double-pleated, long rise, "relaxed fit," belts and suspenders. Nothing seems to help.
The one pair of pants that ever fit me well, I found in a thrift shop for $20. Unfortunately, the waistband said "Giorgio Armani," and the internet assures me that this is a brand I cannot afford to buy new.
Someone once noted that my waist-to-hip ratio is about .75, which is much closer to a woman's proportions than a man's. I wouldn't be opposed to wearing women's pants, if they were fairly unisex looking. Is this an option? I prefer a very staid appearance, and perceptible cross-dressing would not work for me. (Also, they would have to be not of terrible quality: all of my female friends' pants have no pockets or useless pockets, not even a half-lining, completely unfinished waistbands, and bad fabric.)
My measurements are 31" waist, 42" hips, and thighs tapering from 26" at the top to 18" just above the knee. I'm looking for your bog-standard pair of woolen trousers.
Almost every pair of pants I've ever worn has had the same problems. They are too tight around the thighs and butt, they are too loose around the waist, and they deform in a vaguely obscene way when I sit: the waistband pulls down and bows out in the back, and the crotch tents forward into this big beak. This is after I get a tailor to take in the waist. I've tried pleated and double-pleated, long rise, "relaxed fit," belts and suspenders. Nothing seems to help.
The one pair of pants that ever fit me well, I found in a thrift shop for $20. Unfortunately, the waistband said "Giorgio Armani," and the internet assures me that this is a brand I cannot afford to buy new.
Someone once noted that my waist-to-hip ratio is about .75, which is much closer to a woman's proportions than a man's. I wouldn't be opposed to wearing women's pants, if they were fairly unisex looking. Is this an option? I prefer a very staid appearance, and perceptible cross-dressing would not work for me. (Also, they would have to be not of terrible quality: all of my female friends' pants have no pockets or useless pockets, not even a half-lining, completely unfinished waistbands, and bad fabric.)
Made to measure pants aren't obscenely expensive online, actually. All you need are extensive measurements. Get a friend to help.
They seem to have flexible return policies, too.
posted by oceanjesse at 11:54 AM on October 12, 2013 [1 favorite]
They seem to have flexible return policies, too.
posted by oceanjesse at 11:54 AM on October 12, 2013 [1 favorite]
I've been meaning to ask this question! I'll be watching this thread to see how others deal with this fit issue.
My bf has the same problem and the only working solution so far is to go up a size (or two) to get the best fit in the butt and thigh and to always wear a belt to keep the pants around his waist. I've told him that for his pants to truly fit he'll have to take them to tailors to take in the waist. I see that you've already been to the tailor but have you put the pants on in front of the tailor to show him/her what the fit issues are? Otherwise you may need a more experienced tailor.
posted by driedmango at 11:56 AM on October 12, 2013
My bf has the same problem and the only working solution so far is to go up a size (or two) to get the best fit in the butt and thigh and to always wear a belt to keep the pants around his waist. I've told him that for his pants to truly fit he'll have to take them to tailors to take in the waist. I see that you've already been to the tailor but have you put the pants on in front of the tailor to show him/her what the fit issues are? Otherwise you may need a more experienced tailor.
posted by driedmango at 11:56 AM on October 12, 2013
Get thee to a tailor. Pants never fit nicely off the rack.
Really, the answer here is not ladies pants. It's tailoring.
posted by 26.2 at 12:00 PM on October 12, 2013
Really, the answer here is not ladies pants. It's tailoring.
posted by 26.2 at 12:00 PM on October 12, 2013
Response by poster: Yes, when I go to the tailor I wear the pants and he marks the pants up. I've been going to Rene (Mr. Rene?) on Orchard St; maybe New York MeFites can suggest a more skillful tailor in the same price range? Rene charges $15 to take in the waist. Unfortunately, Rene's English is not the best, and my Spanish is even worse, so it's difficult to discuss my problems with him.
posted by d. z. wang at 12:02 PM on October 12, 2013
posted by d. z. wang at 12:02 PM on October 12, 2013
I'd appreciate any advice on how exactly I'm deviating from manufacturers' expectations
You are deviating from manufacturers' expectations for men by having something other than a straight run from your waist to your hips. See this BMI image of Typical Body Shape. Having said that, are you absolutely sure you're not wearing your pants too high? The distance between your crotch and the waistband is the pant rise. You may need short rise pants (this is not the same as low rise!)
You can also look on a site like For the Fit; if you email them your requested measurements, they will have a fit consultant size you and help you find pants.
posted by DarlingBri at 12:03 PM on October 12, 2013 [3 favorites]
You are deviating from manufacturers' expectations for men by having something other than a straight run from your waist to your hips. See this BMI image of Typical Body Shape. Having said that, are you absolutely sure you're not wearing your pants too high? The distance between your crotch and the waistband is the pant rise. You may need short rise pants (this is not the same as low rise!)
You can also look on a site like For the Fit; if you email them your requested measurements, they will have a fit consultant size you and help you find pants.
posted by DarlingBri at 12:03 PM on October 12, 2013 [3 favorites]
This is exactly what happens to me, a woman. I have really muscular legs/butt and small waist (and this is why it irks me when people say women can't gain bulky muscle because bulky muscle is the reason it's so hard for me to find pants!!) My solution that has always worked well is to go shop in stores where the ideal is a body type that is more like mine. In my case that is stores that target black and Hispanic women. You might want to try that out if you haven't yet.
posted by cairdeas at 12:13 PM on October 12, 2013 [3 favorites]
posted by cairdeas at 12:13 PM on October 12, 2013 [3 favorites]
maybe New York MeFites can suggest a more skillful tailor in the same price range?
No, I will not, because you get what you pay for when it comes tailoring. Instead you should make an appointment with Alterations Master, bring them a couple of pairs of pants, explain your situation, and see what they can do with it.
posted by deanc at 12:33 PM on October 12, 2013
No, I will not, because you get what you pay for when it comes tailoring. Instead you should make an appointment with Alterations Master, bring them a couple of pairs of pants, explain your situation, and see what they can do with it.
posted by deanc at 12:33 PM on October 12, 2013
Another vote for tailoring.
You have one pair that fits you really well. When you find a tailor you like, they could make a copy of your best trousers. Initally the cost will be high because you will be paying them to make a pattern of your trousers but subsequent orders should be lower since they will have a your 'master pattern'.
You can certainly go thru the women's racks at thift stores and take your choices to the fitting rooms. No one will bat an eye. Maybe bring a trusted friend who can give you a critical eye as to whether something looks too feminine?
posted by tipsyBumblebee at 12:35 PM on October 12, 2013
You have one pair that fits you really well. When you find a tailor you like, they could make a copy of your best trousers. Initally the cost will be high because you will be paying them to make a pattern of your trousers but subsequent orders should be lower since they will have a your 'master pattern'.
You can certainly go thru the women's racks at thift stores and take your choices to the fitting rooms. No one will bat an eye. Maybe bring a trusted friend who can give you a critical eye as to whether something looks too feminine?
posted by tipsyBumblebee at 12:35 PM on October 12, 2013
Ok on re-reading, I actually meant to ask if you try the pants on after they've been tailored while you're at the tailor's shop. (Including sitting down/moving around) Then the tailor can maybe make adjustments/see what went wrong.
posted by driedmango at 12:58 PM on October 12, 2013
posted by driedmango at 12:58 PM on October 12, 2013
"Low rise" is a common fashion term. "Short rise" is a bespoke tailoring term. Be prepared for everyone to misunderstand you at every men's clothing store and department store.
posted by Nomyte at 1:38 PM on October 12, 2013
posted by Nomyte at 1:38 PM on October 12, 2013
A male colleague of mine wears women's pants; apparently they fit him better. I didn't notice until he told me.
posted by xmts at 4:26 PM on October 12, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by xmts at 4:26 PM on October 12, 2013 [1 favorite]
I'd recommend checking out the women's jeans section of a big department store. I have similar issues with badly fitting jeans that you've described, and I'm curvy woman. My most recent shopping trip I wound up with some basic Levi's ... not fashionable, and very unisex. As a bonus, they come in different cuts meant for different waist/hip ratios.
If you can't bring yourself to shop in the women's section, Zappos carries Levi's jeans, and you can try them on in the privacy of your own place. However, being in NYC, I assume nobody will care that you're not shopping in the section you're "supposed" to. It's not quite the same, but I had no problems shopping for shirts for myself in the men's sections.
posted by Metasyntactic at 4:45 PM on October 12, 2013
If you can't bring yourself to shop in the women's section, Zappos carries Levi's jeans, and you can try them on in the privacy of your own place. However, being in NYC, I assume nobody will care that you're not shopping in the section you're "supposed" to. It's not quite the same, but I had no problems shopping for shirts for myself in the men's sections.
posted by Metasyntactic at 4:45 PM on October 12, 2013
Of course you can wear women's pants! Women's basic Levis are a good idea. Some women wear men's pants. I often wear kids pants, not so much because they are flattering but because they are cheap. (I'm a boys 12 in dickies. Very sexy, as you can imagine). I had a friend in high school who wore his sisters jeans.
That having been said, some male cyclists I know have similar problems. Maybe try pants and jeans that are aimed a cyclists, or those who play other sports that build up bulky muscle that I can't even imagine?
posted by ablazingsaddle at 5:20 PM on October 12, 2013
That having been said, some male cyclists I know have similar problems. Maybe try pants and jeans that are aimed a cyclists, or those who play other sports that build up bulky muscle that I can't even imagine?
posted by ablazingsaddle at 5:20 PM on October 12, 2013
Check out lines of clothing that focus on athletes or bodybuilders. Athletic fit has fitted waist, generous butt and thigh space.
posted by ohshenandoah at 9:47 PM on October 12, 2013
posted by ohshenandoah at 9:47 PM on October 12, 2013
Going by your measurements I thought you were a woman until you said otherwise. You have what is considered a near-ideal waist to hip ratio for a woman so you should try women's pants as an option as well as tailoring.
Some women's clothing manufacturers make things for people who are more straight up and down; I have a similar waist to hip ratio to yours, and places like Boden for example, who cut very straight, make skirts that leave me looking like a comedy man-dressed-in-a-barrel. So if you don't find something at the first store don't give up.
posted by tel3path at 6:49 AM on October 13, 2013
Some women's clothing manufacturers make things for people who are more straight up and down; I have a similar waist to hip ratio to yours, and places like Boden for example, who cut very straight, make skirts that leave me looking like a comedy man-dressed-in-a-barrel. So if you don't find something at the first store don't give up.
posted by tel3path at 6:49 AM on October 13, 2013
Ann Taylor carries wool and wool-blend pants in 'traditional' cuts with real pockets, linings (in some), finished waists, and good fabric choices on the 'business wear' side of the store. You might give them a try. I'm picky about the pants I wear to the office, and they're the best I've found. They have a curvy cut that should accomodate your proportions without looking overly feminine or trendy.
posted by webwench at 12:22 AM on October 14, 2013
posted by webwench at 12:22 AM on October 14, 2013
While I am nearly 6 ft tall, I have a very long torso and short legs. Anything that fits my waist is too long in the legs and usually flips between baggy in the seat or too tight. I recommend This. Reasonably priced and not just jeans!
posted by emjay at 3:09 AM on October 14, 2013
posted by emjay at 3:09 AM on October 14, 2013
I'm a "hippy" woman, and I insist on pockets and decent construction of my pants. I manage to find them all at the thrift shop but it could be more challenging for you, as you'd be wearing more plus-sized women's sizes. If you head into women's clothing, immediately start taking notes on the brands and sizes that fit you (or don't), else you risk madness. You're likely to still need some tailoring of women's pants, I still need it.
posted by Anwan at 10:43 PM on October 14, 2013
posted by Anwan at 10:43 PM on October 14, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by cecic at 11:47 AM on October 12, 2013 [1 favorite]