Nice in July
March 17, 2025 11:17 AM Subscribe
We are going to Nice (France) in July because both kids are francophiles. They will be 11 and 14. Our interests are to experience French ways of doing things (14 yo wants to sample all that the boulangeries have to offer, for instance). And we tend towards amusing modern art, Japanese food and nerdery, well, food and nerdery in general, interesting non-stuffy museums but also maybe having one day on a beach. Hit me with recommendations please?
Interested in all "live like a French person"-advice, sightseeing tips and ideas how to prepare (movies to watch?). Thank you!
Interested in all "live like a French person"-advice, sightseeing tips and ideas how to prepare (movies to watch?). Thank you!
For some specific food nerdery, there is the Musée Escoffier de l'Art Culinaire in Villeneuve-Loubet, which is partially about the history of French cuisine, which Auguste Escoffier had a big hand in helping to codify, especially the concept of haute cuisine. They give you peach cobbler when you visit, which is so frigging cute.
For food, Chez Rene Socca for some socca - a delicious chickpea flour flatbread. You can eat it at one of their outdoor tables in the sunshine and it is so wonderful. Fenocchio makes excellent gelato. There's a location on Place Rosetti.
If your 14yo has a fairly adventurous palate, I recommend the pan bagnat sandwich.
For modern art, in Nice there are the Matisse museum, which I felt was just okay - didn't seem to have a great selection of his work - and the Chagall museum, which we didn't go to but that I wish that I had instead of the Matisse museum. The Picasso museum in Antibes, a short local train ride away (and a charming town itself) was much more interesting, though also doesn't contain any particularly significant works from the artist.
Another great day trip is to go see the Musée océanographique de Monaco, which is a great aquarium in an absolutely fantastically interesting building (lots of sealife sculpture built into it and great mosaics) on a spectacular location. Perhaps the Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou would be a good pre-watch movie for visiting there, given it's an homage to/parody of Jacques Cousteau - he was the Oceanographic Institute for 30 years and there is some of his stuff in the museum.
If you do a beach day, go to a beach club and get rent a chair there. The beaches in Nice are really rocky. I don't have a beach club to recommend, just the recommendation that you don't try to have a lie out on the beach without something to sit on. The kids would be fine but for adults it can get uncomfortable when you're just trying to chill.
posted by urbanlenny at 12:42 PM on March 17 [1 favorite]
For food, Chez Rene Socca for some socca - a delicious chickpea flour flatbread. You can eat it at one of their outdoor tables in the sunshine and it is so wonderful. Fenocchio makes excellent gelato. There's a location on Place Rosetti.
If your 14yo has a fairly adventurous palate, I recommend the pan bagnat sandwich.
For modern art, in Nice there are the Matisse museum, which I felt was just okay - didn't seem to have a great selection of his work - and the Chagall museum, which we didn't go to but that I wish that I had instead of the Matisse museum. The Picasso museum in Antibes, a short local train ride away (and a charming town itself) was much more interesting, though also doesn't contain any particularly significant works from the artist.
Another great day trip is to go see the Musée océanographique de Monaco, which is a great aquarium in an absolutely fantastically interesting building (lots of sealife sculpture built into it and great mosaics) on a spectacular location. Perhaps the Life Aquatic with Steve Zissou would be a good pre-watch movie for visiting there, given it's an homage to/parody of Jacques Cousteau - he was the Oceanographic Institute for 30 years and there is some of his stuff in the museum.
If you do a beach day, go to a beach club and get rent a chair there. The beaches in Nice are really rocky. I don't have a beach club to recommend, just the recommendation that you don't try to have a lie out on the beach without something to sit on. The kids would be fine but for adults it can get uncomfortable when you're just trying to chill.
posted by urbanlenny at 12:42 PM on March 17 [1 favorite]
If you get the train along the coast to Menton (a lovely trip in itself), you can visit the shop Au Pays du Citron, which sells everything that you can possibly imagine making out of the local lemons. Also you can get a tour of the lemon farm if that's up your alley.
There's also a big tinned fish shop in Nice. If you go for a walk up Mont Boron (right next to the old town, nicer than the beach, amazing views) you can look for the mosaic featuring knights riding on giant fish.
Another beach alternative is the walk around Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, which is one train stop up the coast and near the lovely little village of Villefranche. The views are stunning.
posted by quacks like a duck at 1:11 PM on March 17 [1 favorite]
There's also a big tinned fish shop in Nice. If you go for a walk up Mont Boron (right next to the old town, nicer than the beach, amazing views) you can look for the mosaic featuring knights riding on giant fish.
Another beach alternative is the walk around Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat, which is one train stop up the coast and near the lovely little village of Villefranche. The views are stunning.
posted by quacks like a duck at 1:11 PM on March 17 [1 favorite]
If you have a car, there are a number of nearby attractions to visit:
- Take a hike on the Haute Corniche, dry brush areas filled with fragrand herbs and lots of colorful butterflies, with sweeping sea views
- Villefranche, Beaulieu Sur Mer and St Jean Cap Ferrat are three small towns where the hoi-polloi have luxurious villas, some of which you can visit, like the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild with its magnificent gardens
- Wherever you are, there will be cafes with outdoor terraces, restaurants with views of the harbor where little colorful fishing boats abound
- Don't forget little local parks, where you can catch a game of boules (it's like curling without ice?) and spirited rivalries between French senior citizens
- There are also towns on the haute corniche like Eze (where you can visit a perfume maker and have customized scents made), as well as the Maeght Foundation where you can see art of the 20th century
- If you can get to Cannes, there are ferries to the islands of St Honorat and Ste Marguerite for a beautiful, serene day trip
- If you are staying in an apartment, or have an opportunity for a picnic, don't miss local outdoor markets. You will be gobsmacked at the quality of the produce and amazed that fruits, vegetables and cheese can taste so good. Try to shop every day rather than a big shop for the week, so you can sample the daily catch at the fish market, etc.
- Maybe practice the "bise": Greet friends (and family) with two quick pecks on the cheek (right/left). It'll make your kids laugh (or cringe)...
- Lastly, if you want to live like a French person, don't forget rule number One: The "Bonjour" rule. Don't address a stranger without saying "bonjour first". No "excuse me, could you..." It's "Bonjour. Could you...." Same if you go into a shop. Say "bonjour" first. If you do not, don't be surprised if miffed French people try to "bonjour" you until you get the hint ;)
posted by Bigbootay. Tay! Tay! Blam! Aargh... at 1:22 PM on March 17 [2 favorites]
- Take a hike on the Haute Corniche, dry brush areas filled with fragrand herbs and lots of colorful butterflies, with sweeping sea views
- Villefranche, Beaulieu Sur Mer and St Jean Cap Ferrat are three small towns where the hoi-polloi have luxurious villas, some of which you can visit, like the Villa Ephrussi de Rothschild with its magnificent gardens
- Wherever you are, there will be cafes with outdoor terraces, restaurants with views of the harbor where little colorful fishing boats abound
- Don't forget little local parks, where you can catch a game of boules (it's like curling without ice?) and spirited rivalries between French senior citizens
- There are also towns on the haute corniche like Eze (where you can visit a perfume maker and have customized scents made), as well as the Maeght Foundation where you can see art of the 20th century
- If you can get to Cannes, there are ferries to the islands of St Honorat and Ste Marguerite for a beautiful, serene day trip
- If you are staying in an apartment, or have an opportunity for a picnic, don't miss local outdoor markets. You will be gobsmacked at the quality of the produce and amazed that fruits, vegetables and cheese can taste so good. Try to shop every day rather than a big shop for the week, so you can sample the daily catch at the fish market, etc.
- Maybe practice the "bise": Greet friends (and family) with two quick pecks on the cheek (right/left). It'll make your kids laugh (or cringe)...
- Lastly, if you want to live like a French person, don't forget rule number One: The "Bonjour" rule. Don't address a stranger without saying "bonjour first". No "excuse me, could you..." It's "Bonjour. Could you...." Same if you go into a shop. Say "bonjour" first. If you do not, don't be surprised if miffed French people try to "bonjour" you until you get the hint ;)
posted by Bigbootay. Tay! Tay! Blam! Aargh... at 1:22 PM on March 17 [2 favorites]
If you have the time, Grasse is delightful and has a perfume museum.
posted by Ideefixe at 2:13 PM on March 17 [2 favorites]
posted by Ideefixe at 2:13 PM on March 17 [2 favorites]
Yes, Grasse, not Eze! My bad memory....
posted by Bigbootay. Tay! Tay! Blam! Aargh... at 3:28 PM on March 17
posted by Bigbootay. Tay! Tay! Blam! Aargh... at 3:28 PM on March 17
I really liked the Chagall Museum. I'd also second the Musée océanographique de Monaco.
posted by pangolin party at 3:55 PM on March 17
posted by pangolin party at 3:55 PM on March 17
Are you aware that in July, the rest of France goes to the Riviera?
posted by Ferrari328 at 11:47 AM on March 18
posted by Ferrari328 at 11:47 AM on March 18
Response by poster: Thank you very much for the advice!
And yes, unfortunately July can't be helped, we need to go then for much the same reason the French do, I imagine.
posted by Omnomnom at 9:48 AM on March 19
And yes, unfortunately July can't be helped, we need to go then for much the same reason the French do, I imagine.
posted by Omnomnom at 9:48 AM on March 19
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posted by Shark Hat at 12:27 PM on March 17 [4 favorites]