Dressy but not too dressy (mens fashion question)

September 3, 2024 7:27 PM

For a certain occasion, I'm trying to find a middle ground between wearing a dress shirt, tie and dress pants, which feels too dressed up and uncomfortable and just wearing a dress shirt open collar, no tie, and dress pants which feels too casual. I know that wearing a sport coat with no tie seems the obvious answer, but wearing an outer coat feels too heavy to me and uncomfortable. I don't know if such a middle ground exists or makes any sense. Any suggestions?
posted by roaring beast to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (11 answers total)

How about nice jeans with a dress shirt and tie. If you can deal with a lightweight blazer all the better, and will let you possibly lose the tie.
posted by Tim Bucktooth at 7:42 PM on September 3

How about a sweater vest over the dress shirt?
posted by MadMadam at 8:07 PM on September 3 [1 favorite]

shirt and tie with no jacket is not the traditional dressed-up look; it's fine if you're at the office and can pretend you left your jacket in the other room because you're working too hard, but more traditionally minded people will secretly judge you. a light sportcoat over a dress shirt with no tie will look much more put-together. 100% wool sportcoats/blazers are usually not too heavy or hot, as long as they're in a normal weight of fabric. wool is kind of magic that way. nice jeans rather than dress pants would dress the outfit down, but a lot depends on what kind of occasion and where in the world/country it is. a thin crewneck sweater over a dress shirt, with no tie, can look good.
posted by unreadyhero at 8:22 PM on September 3 [10 favorites]

I think a nice crew neck or v-neck sweater will help dress up an oxford shirt, and a shawl collar cardigan will look like a slightly less dressy blazer. A cardigan is sort of a casual garment but weirdly codes "spiffy" in 2024 so it is maybe the solution you're looking for?

In my experience all of those will be warmer to wear (and harder to take off and on) than a well fitting, quarter-lined lightweight open weave wool blazer. These aren't super easy to come by on eBay, but they do exist there, or if you have a budget, maybe places Spier and Mackay on sale.
posted by kensington314 at 10:38 PM on September 3 [1 favorite]

Best answer: It's not exactly a middle ground, but you could think carefully about the quality/stylishness of the specific shirt and trousers you are wearing in the 'without tie' look. There are a range of subtle variations that can come into play. Look at photos of men in similar looks to try and recreate the level of formality you are seeking.
posted by plonkee at 5:56 AM on September 4 [1 favorite]

It's a bit hard to answer without knowing more details on what the occasion is, even professional vs not. Lately I've been attenuating this in my work environment by getting nicer shirts (than off-the-rack at least). That site might also give you some ideas for tieless + jacket.
posted by advil at 6:12 AM on September 4 [1 favorite]

I'm in situations at work like this a lot; call it the very upper end of business casual, but just not formal enough to require a traditional jacket and tie.

I usually end up with the sport coat / dress shirt, pants, shoes and no tie look, but if that's not an option, a good quality cardigan or V-neck sweater, paired with a dress shirt and perhaps a casual knit tie, is the way to go. Alternatively, look at a vest (not one from a three piece suit) or maybe a French cuffed shirt with no tie or jacket. And, there are deconstructed sports coats that are noticeably more casual and fashion forward than what you would expect them to be.

Finally, I've had a lot of success finding outfits by going into a menswear store, explaining the types of events I need to dress for and giving them a budget, then having the clerk pick out a few pieces. It takes a lot of the stress out of it and they've clued me in to a couple of looks that are really sharp.

Good luck with this. Dress codes for men have noticeably relaxed over the last 10 years which I think is overall a good thing, but it means we all have to be a lot more intentional on how we approach these situations and it can be a headache. I do like the (fewer) events I attend where I just have to haul out a navy blue suit, white shirt, dress shoes, and a conservative tie.
posted by fortitude25 at 7:16 AM on September 4

Best answer: Seconding unreadyhero's comment.

When I need dressier while not wanting the heaviness of a standard wool sport coat (especially in warmer weather), I rely on linen sport coats. You get an upscaled look, but it's much lighter.
posted by NotMyselfRightNow at 7:19 AM on September 4 [2 favorites]

A jacket without a tie is nice casual. A tie without a jacket looks ... incomplete and, honestly, immature.

I think your instinct is right, and the issue is the heavy/formal feel of your current jacket. As someone suggested above, look at linen and other similarly "unstructured" jackets.
posted by Text TK at 8:30 AM on September 4 [2 favorites]

Linen jackets are easier to find on eBay than a quarter-lined summer weight wool blazer, so seconding those recommendations, so long as you don't mind the rumpled look of linen. It definitely dresses things down and is comfortable!
posted by kensington314 at 11:37 AM on September 4

Agree with everyone that sport coat and nice shirt is a finished look, while a shirt and tie just looks as though one has forgotten their jacket. This post from Die, Workwear! (aka Menswear Guy) has a lot of photos of less formal but sleek looks; you can read the in-depth discussion and click the links, or just skim the photos.
posted by oneirodynia at 10:58 PM on September 4 [1 favorite]