What kind of paint do I need for this knockoff ball chair?
May 27, 2023 1:50 PM Subscribe
I recently snagged a knockoff Eero Ball Chair on FBM. It's already been painted badly. What type of paint can I use to redo it?
Here are the pix of my new chair. Actual Eero chairs have a fiberglass shell, but I have no idea if this guy is actually fiberglass or something else. (I think it is, though....) Will regular old spray paint work? Do I need like, automotive paint or one of those "paint your bathtub" kits or something? Please hope me, paint gurus!
Here are the pix of my new chair. Actual Eero chairs have a fiberglass shell, but I have no idea if this guy is actually fiberglass or something else. (I think it is, though....) Will regular old spray paint work? Do I need like, automotive paint or one of those "paint your bathtub" kits or something? Please hope me, paint gurus!
You may be able to tell if it's fiberglass by flipping it over and looking at the underside of the base -- unfinished fiberglass has a fairly distinctive look. Then, if it IS fiberglass, you could perhaps take it to an automotive body/paint shop -- there's a fair chance they'll have suggested fixes (note: not guaranteed, just "a fair chance") and might even be willing to do the job for you.
...or that's what I'd try anyway.
posted by aramaic at 2:19 PM on May 27, 2023 [4 favorites]
...or that's what I'd try anyway.
posted by aramaic at 2:19 PM on May 27, 2023 [4 favorites]
I agree with aramaic. I would see if an automotive paint shop could spray it for a reasonable cost. They could do some great colors. If that is not a reasonable option I would sand it, prime it, then use a spray gun to paint it.
Another option, and it is a little far out, is to get it wrapped. Not sure if it can be done smoothly with one piece or if they can hide the seam. That would also be an automotive wrap shop.
posted by JohnnyGunn at 10:09 PM on May 27, 2023 [2 favorites]
Another option, and it is a little far out, is to get it wrapped. Not sure if it can be done smoothly with one piece or if they can hide the seam. That would also be an automotive wrap shop.
posted by JohnnyGunn at 10:09 PM on May 27, 2023 [2 favorites]
Painter here, just warning that if you haven't used automotive paints it's not something you can "just pick up." Plus most of them have nasty chemicals usually isocynates that if sprayed can be potentially hazardous with out proper protection and adequate ventilation. Although several companies do offer low VOC options, look for labels like "low VOC," "HAPS compliant" etc.
Rattle cans generally have a small "fan" and it would be hard to get an even finish or one with out curtains of drips.
Brushing on paint will naturally look brushed. I'd not do that.
There are colored, post catalyzed lacquers you could use, ML Campbell products can be ordered from a good paint store in most colors offered by the various companies. Designed for furniture and cabinetry very durable.
Do you have a compressor and spray gun? If not you'll need a compressor that has a CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of at least 7 CFM. a spray gun with a 1.3-1.5 mm needle, Sprayit paint guns are cheap and reliable.
A respirator with organic vapor cartridge filters.
If you want me to continue please let me know and I can walk you through the steps.
posted by Max Power at 7:22 AM on May 28, 2023 [3 favorites]
Rattle cans generally have a small "fan" and it would be hard to get an even finish or one with out curtains of drips.
Brushing on paint will naturally look brushed. I'd not do that.
There are colored, post catalyzed lacquers you could use, ML Campbell products can be ordered from a good paint store in most colors offered by the various companies. Designed for furniture and cabinetry very durable.
Do you have a compressor and spray gun? If not you'll need a compressor that has a CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) of at least 7 CFM. a spray gun with a 1.3-1.5 mm needle, Sprayit paint guns are cheap and reliable.
A respirator with organic vapor cartridge filters.
If you want me to continue please let me know and I can walk you through the steps.
posted by Max Power at 7:22 AM on May 28, 2023 [3 favorites]
Response by poster: Taking the chair somewhere is...borderline not possible, but I do have a spray gun. I've also spray painted a lot of furniture over the years and am leaning toward just spray painting it. I can live with "that will look bad, but you do you" but don't want "that paint will not take, and you will be in a weird hell."
posted by Charity Garfein at 1:23 PM on May 28, 2023
posted by Charity Garfein at 1:23 PM on May 28, 2023
Firstly, I'm 99% sure the chair is made of fibreglass. It appears to have bene originally white and has been painted at least once, as you can see from the scratches.
A lot depends on what finish you want - if you want a perfectly flat, super glossy finish, you'll need to take it to a spray painter with a spray booth, although you could do the preparation yourself. You'll need to remove the upholstery parts first, then sand it well. You may need to remove the blue paint completely bit, as long as it's not flaking off, just sanding it smooth will be enough. Generally, you'll need to finish with 240 grit or higher (I would use 320), although you may want to sand it at first with 180 to get the surface smooth and blend off any scratches etc. Once it's sanded, you can take it to a spray painter for finishing.
Given you have a spray gun and know how to use it, you can definitely get a 'good enough' finish yourself. You will be aware of how to deal with the overspray that will get everywhere and on everything in the same area.
As far as the type of paint goes, for a piece of furniture that lives inside, it doesn't really matter too much what you use. Automotive paint would be best and this is almost always water-based these days, so the fumes are not as terrible, but still wear a mask. For this type of paint, you'll need to use a primer and many of these don't require sanding before spraying the base colour. You'll also need a clear coat for modern automotive paint, as the base coat doesn't have any gloss and is not suitable as a finished surface.
If you're happy with a finish that isn't mirror-glossy, you can use gloss interior house paint and it will look just fine. Depending on the paint, you may or may not need a primer and won't need a clear coat. Just make sure the surface is smooth and free from marks - contrary to common belief, the paint will not hide any imperfections but will exaggerate them, especially when sprayed. You shouldn't need to sand between coats, as long as you don't leave it too long. If you do need to sand it, wet sanding is best and I would use something like 600 grit for that. If sanding between coats, you'll need to let the paint fully harden before sanding.
Probably the easiest way would be to use rattle cans. If you're handy with a spray gun, you can get a good finish and the difference between a good and bad rattle can spray job is almost entirely in the ability of the person holding the can.
If possible, I would disassemble the 'egg' part of the chair from the base, as it will be hard to get a good finish in the narrow area between the two parts.
Dont'f forget to post pictures of the finished product, so we can marvel at your workmanship :-)
posted by dg at 4:46 PM on May 28, 2023 [1 favorite]
A lot depends on what finish you want - if you want a perfectly flat, super glossy finish, you'll need to take it to a spray painter with a spray booth, although you could do the preparation yourself. You'll need to remove the upholstery parts first, then sand it well. You may need to remove the blue paint completely bit, as long as it's not flaking off, just sanding it smooth will be enough. Generally, you'll need to finish with 240 grit or higher (I would use 320), although you may want to sand it at first with 180 to get the surface smooth and blend off any scratches etc. Once it's sanded, you can take it to a spray painter for finishing.
Given you have a spray gun and know how to use it, you can definitely get a 'good enough' finish yourself. You will be aware of how to deal with the overspray that will get everywhere and on everything in the same area.
As far as the type of paint goes, for a piece of furniture that lives inside, it doesn't really matter too much what you use. Automotive paint would be best and this is almost always water-based these days, so the fumes are not as terrible, but still wear a mask. For this type of paint, you'll need to use a primer and many of these don't require sanding before spraying the base colour. You'll also need a clear coat for modern automotive paint, as the base coat doesn't have any gloss and is not suitable as a finished surface.
If you're happy with a finish that isn't mirror-glossy, you can use gloss interior house paint and it will look just fine. Depending on the paint, you may or may not need a primer and won't need a clear coat. Just make sure the surface is smooth and free from marks - contrary to common belief, the paint will not hide any imperfections but will exaggerate them, especially when sprayed. You shouldn't need to sand between coats, as long as you don't leave it too long. If you do need to sand it, wet sanding is best and I would use something like 600 grit for that. If sanding between coats, you'll need to let the paint fully harden before sanding.
Probably the easiest way would be to use rattle cans. If you're handy with a spray gun, you can get a good finish and the difference between a good and bad rattle can spray job is almost entirely in the ability of the person holding the can.
If possible, I would disassemble the 'egg' part of the chair from the base, as it will be hard to get a good finish in the narrow area between the two parts.
Dont'f forget to post pictures of the finished product, so we can marvel at your workmanship :-)
posted by dg at 4:46 PM on May 28, 2023 [1 favorite]
Since you have a gun things get easy.
-scuff the surface with 320 sandpaper, nice mechanical bond. If current paint flakes take it all off, there should be a primer coat, don't burn through. If it doesn't flake just take off the shine.
-use a sanding pad to cover the contour better. No hot spots.
- make sure the wall scuffs are sanded flush, feel it, the slightest right will telegraph. 3M Kombi spot putty helps if you apply it before you sand the wall scratches.
- 2 coats of color, what ever product. You can color sand if it's more orange peely than you like.
-2 clear coats. scuff @ 600-800 grit, I know folks who go up to 1200- +, car guys.
Buff it, 3M 1, 2, 3. The best guy I know says less compound the better. For him it's all feeling.
posted by Max Power at 12:38 PM on May 29, 2023
-scuff the surface with 320 sandpaper, nice mechanical bond. If current paint flakes take it all off, there should be a primer coat, don't burn through. If it doesn't flake just take off the shine.
-use a sanding pad to cover the contour better. No hot spots.
- make sure the wall scuffs are sanded flush, feel it, the slightest right will telegraph. 3M Kombi spot putty helps if you apply it before you sand the wall scratches.
- 2 coats of color, what ever product. You can color sand if it's more orange peely than you like.
-2 clear coats. scuff @ 600-800 grit, I know folks who go up to 1200- +, car guys.
Buff it, 3M 1, 2, 3. The best guy I know says less compound the better. For him it's all feeling.
posted by Max Power at 12:38 PM on May 29, 2023
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