Looking for parts for an old range/oven
November 16, 2022 9:25 AM Subscribe
We have an old Westinghouse range/oven that came with the house and might even be close to original for the property, which was built in 1952. It's a 40" (!) double oven and it's really great, except it isn't heating properly anymore. I'm trying to find replacement parts for it.
The oven looks exactly like this one (not our photo). We've found two possible model numbers on it, one on a big tag on the back, and the other on a little worn plate. The model numbers are KDK4C and KARO4001. I think the words "rotisserie kit" are also on the metal tag, but much of the text is hard to make out.
I'm striking out using these model numbers, and it may be the oven is too old to get parts for (which would be a bummer). We probably need a new bottom heating element and maybe a new thermostat.
Am I missing another model number someplace on the oven? Can anyone make out more of the text on the metal plate and maybe find another number there? Is there maybe an owners manual anywhere online I could download? Are there any resources for parts for antique stoves that I don't know about from an hour or so on google? Please help!
The oven looks exactly like this one (not our photo). We've found two possible model numbers on it, one on a big tag on the back, and the other on a little worn plate. The model numbers are KDK4C and KARO4001. I think the words "rotisserie kit" are also on the metal tag, but much of the text is hard to make out.
I'm striking out using these model numbers, and it may be the oven is too old to get parts for (which would be a bummer). We probably need a new bottom heating element and maybe a new thermostat.
Am I missing another model number someplace on the oven? Can anyone make out more of the text on the metal plate and maybe find another number there? Is there maybe an owners manual anywhere online I could download? Are there any resources for parts for antique stoves that I don't know about from an hour or so on google? Please help!
PS: The wattage of the element is usually stamped on the mounting flange.
Before you do anything though you should ensure that all your fuses contained within the range are good and verify the range isn't in a time bake mode.
posted by Mitheral at 10:09 AM on November 16, 2022 [1 favorite]
Before you do anything though you should ensure that all your fuses contained within the range are good and verify the range isn't in a time bake mode.
posted by Mitheral at 10:09 AM on November 16, 2022 [1 favorite]
Your best bet may be emailing or phoning parts suppliers in the largest city convenient to you. Sometimes there's that elder person behind the counter who can help find a working replacement part.
posted by donpardo at 10:11 AM on November 16, 2022
posted by donpardo at 10:11 AM on November 16, 2022
The webmaster of the site hosting that "not our photo" link has an anti-leeching setup that breaks the link for anyone who hasn't visited the site. You'll need to either post a link to the page on the website that it's on or upload the picture somewhere else.
posted by Aleyn at 12:41 PM on November 16, 2022
posted by Aleyn at 12:41 PM on November 16, 2022
Have you consulted Antique Appliances in Georgia? They seem to have parts and expertise.
posted by diodotos at 7:40 PM on November 16, 2022
posted by diodotos at 7:40 PM on November 16, 2022
Response by poster: Ack! I didn' know the photo of the stove didn't work right. Here is the picture of the stove.
posted by hippybear at 11:06 AM on November 17, 2022
posted by hippybear at 11:06 AM on November 17, 2022
Best answer: You oven is NOT too old to get parts for (my oven is from 1955 and with some elbow grease now works great). The place I most recently used for parts was: https://grapevinesally.com/
Also, if you think the temperature gauge is not working I recommend trying to clean it (gently) with an old toothbrush. Sometimes stuff just builds up and blocks sensing.
posted by mutt.cyberspace at 1:15 PM on November 17, 2022
Also, if you think the temperature gauge is not working I recommend trying to clean it (gently) with an old toothbrush. Sometimes stuff just builds up and blocks sensing.
posted by mutt.cyberspace at 1:15 PM on November 17, 2022
Response by poster: So, after a bit of needing to let everything rest in my head for a while, I finally ordered an element for my stove! What I'm now wondering is, because it isn't the same shape as the one I pulled out of the oven... what is the best way to go about bending this new element, which won't arrive for a week, into a shape that matches the old element? I assume this is important for "even" heat distribution. Do I just use my hands, or pliers, or pliers with a cloth on them, or round-edge pliers like I used to use in jewelry making?
A bit specifically asking Mitheral here, but happy for any input.
posted by hippybear at 4:49 PM on May 23, 2023
A bit specifically asking Mitheral here, but happy for any input.
posted by hippybear at 4:49 PM on May 23, 2023
Best answer: Until they are heated the first time they can be bent somewhat by hand pressure. However if the element physically fits width and depth wise I generally didn't mess with them. The cooking characteristics of your oven will change irregardless and you risk damaging the element. Best thing is to bake something cheap that you are used a few times to ascertain if there are any hot/cool spots. Generally even a radically different shape won't effect the temperature control.
When you go to attach the wires if they are secured with a screw use a pair of pliers to support the little flange while you use a screw driver to set the screw.
posted by Mitheral at 9:29 AM on May 24, 2023
When you go to attach the wires if they are secured with a screw use a pair of pliers to support the little flange while you use a screw driver to set the screw.
posted by Mitheral at 9:29 AM on May 24, 2023
Response by poster: And wow! My oven element arrived today, a week early, and I got it installed fine. A bit of a process but really just screws and wires. And now we've got the oven on, and the new element is glowing and I think this repair worked!
Thanks so much everyone for helping me with this task that took way longer than it should have!
posted by hippybear at 1:47 PM on May 24, 2023
Thanks so much everyone for helping me with this task that took way longer than it should have!
posted by hippybear at 1:47 PM on May 24, 2023
Response by poster: Actually, let me add a few more notes at the end of this because this might be useful information.
The model number of the stove KDK4C I gave above is correct and is what led me to find the replacement element I needed. There was a lot of other searching I did across time -- the KARO number, the number on the actual element itself, various brands and websites... What really held me back for a long time was that it felt like I had no clear path forward.
I had found some elements that looked like maybe they would work, and was working out how to get them adapted for my oven, as they were not direct replacements, when I stalled out.
I went back to this project a short while ago, and went back to the browser window I had with all the tabs where my research was, and I looked at everything, remembered where I was, and reached out to one of the companies that I thought might help me. I got no response to my email. I tried them on chat, got connected to a chat and then entirely ghosted after presenting my information.
Finally I did a new, fresh web search on the model number of the stove, months after I had started this process, and actually GOT A REAL HIT. I don't know what had changed, but suddenly my prospects had improved.
The company I ordered from is SenecaRiverTrading.com, but I found them through Amazon. I don't know exactly why they were suddenly carrying a part I needed I couldn't find earlier, but yay.
The replacement did involve me taking the back panel off the stove to get good access to the wiring connection points. There was a door in the back panel that was in sort of the right place, but I had better access when I took the full back panel off the stove. Most of this stove, behind that back panel, is just wiring wandering around of point to point -- it looked ridiculously like a Radio Shack electronics model I built in the seventies, only with 220V input and much scarier implications.
And replacement involved one phillips head driver for the screws holding the element in place, and one flat head driver for all the screw on the panel behind the oven and the wire connection screws onto the element. It was a very basic amount of effort to do the actual swap-out.
After that, we turned it on and set an oven thermometer to see if the thermostat was still accurate, and it was.
So that's the end summary of this project. I wanted to give the details for someone else who might come after me looking into doing this.
posted by hippybear at 2:50 PM on May 24, 2023
The model number of the stove KDK4C I gave above is correct and is what led me to find the replacement element I needed. There was a lot of other searching I did across time -- the KARO number, the number on the actual element itself, various brands and websites... What really held me back for a long time was that it felt like I had no clear path forward.
I had found some elements that looked like maybe they would work, and was working out how to get them adapted for my oven, as they were not direct replacements, when I stalled out.
I went back to this project a short while ago, and went back to the browser window I had with all the tabs where my research was, and I looked at everything, remembered where I was, and reached out to one of the companies that I thought might help me. I got no response to my email. I tried them on chat, got connected to a chat and then entirely ghosted after presenting my information.
Finally I did a new, fresh web search on the model number of the stove, months after I had started this process, and actually GOT A REAL HIT. I don't know what had changed, but suddenly my prospects had improved.
The company I ordered from is SenecaRiverTrading.com, but I found them through Amazon. I don't know exactly why they were suddenly carrying a part I needed I couldn't find earlier, but yay.
The replacement did involve me taking the back panel off the stove to get good access to the wiring connection points. There was a door in the back panel that was in sort of the right place, but I had better access when I took the full back panel off the stove. Most of this stove, behind that back panel, is just wiring wandering around of point to point -- it looked ridiculously like a Radio Shack electronics model I built in the seventies, only with 220V input and much scarier implications.
And replacement involved one phillips head driver for the screws holding the element in place, and one flat head driver for all the screw on the panel behind the oven and the wire connection screws onto the element. It was a very basic amount of effort to do the actual swap-out.
After that, we turned it on and set an oven thermometer to see if the thermostat was still accurate, and it was.
So that's the end summary of this project. I wanted to give the details for someone else who might come after me looking into doing this.
posted by hippybear at 2:50 PM on May 24, 2023
This thread is closed to new comments.
At any rate assuming this is an electric range then universal parts are available to replace both oven elements and thermostats.
For the element you just need to find one with the correct wattage (or even a bit under sized, it'll just heat slower) and the correct mounting layout and finally one that fits in your oven. Modern replacement calrod style elements can even handle limited bending before being heated the first time so if you have to tweak it a bit you can. They are available in a wide range of shapes, sizes and wattages. When I was doing appliance work I could _always_ make something work even with the limited selection I'd have on my service truck.
Your thermostat is a little trickier because there a few different ways they can be wired especially when it comes to making the indicator light work. And then one has to be aware of the mounting style and shaft design. Again I could almost always make a universal control function though sometimes I couldn't retain the knob.
Be aware that on an appliance this old the wire insulation can sometimes be brittle and will disintegrate when distrubed or flexed. Or can be burnt from lose connections that caused the thermostat to go int he first place. It's a straight forward but time consuming task to replace any damaged wire with correct high temperature wire and connectors. An experienced person can use simple plier style crimpers but if it's you first time a set of ratcheting crimpers (not a recommendation for this one just an example, the T&B StaKon version is like $500+) will ensure more consistent results.
posted by Mitheral at 10:06 AM on November 16, 2022 [3 favorites]